Rockfax Description
II, 215m. Although the crux can be circumnavigated by a quick pull on the fixed rope, there is still plenty of challenging climbing up this stunning line. The route can be identified by a rusty sign at the foot of the first pitch.
1) 6a+, 45m. A sustained and technical wall.
2) 6b, 40m. More of the same, just harder and steeper!
3) 6b+, 30m. Climb up and left to pass through a roof then continue directly up.
4) 6c or 6a/A0, 50m. Climb briefly up then reverse to the left to reach a corner (6c or a fixed rope for 4m - check rope for wear). Continue up the wall on good holds.
5) 5c, 50m. An easier pitch, following the ridge. There can be lichen on this pitch so don't drop your guard! Be aware of potential loose blocks. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Lovely five pitch climb at Brevent left of the Frison Roche. Bolted all the way, and with solid double-bolted belays. A little run-out and some loose rock, but excellent and very sustained climbing. 250m: 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 5c.
Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , TM Alps
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mic.snow | 10 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The fixed rope is an offense to climbers! To free that one move is really easy, in fact you have to do harder moves elsewhere on the route! It's only unnecessarily awkward because the fixed rope is in the way. Why not just remove the rope, and put a few extra bolts instead, so people can still easily aid it if they really need to. Then everyone else can actually climb the rock instead of this via ferrata bullshit. And then it would also make sense to move R3, the start of P4, 2 meters to the left, so the belayer can actually see the climber around the corner. This wouldn't change anything for the climbing on P3 or P4, because that's a ledge anyway. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The fixed rope is an offense to climbers! To free that one move is really easy, in fact you have to do harder moves elsewhere on the route! It's only unnecessarily awkward because the fixed rope is in the way. Why not just remove the rope, and put a few extra bolts instead, so people can still easily aid it if they really need to. Then everyone else can actually climb the rock instead of this via ferrata bullshit. And then it would also make sense to move R3, the start of P4, 2 meters to the left, so the belayer can actually see the climber around the corner. This wouldn't change anything for the climbing on P3 or P4, because that's a ledge anyway. |
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themattyshep | 1 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Tat on the 6c pitch gets in the way of your actually climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tat on the 6c pitch gets in the way of your actually climbing. |
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Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Petites Jorasses)