UKC

Rockfax Description
II, 215m. Although the crux can be circumnavigated by a quick pull on the fixed rope, there is still plenty of challenging climbing up this stunning line. The route can be identified by a rusty sign at the foot of the first pitch.
1) 6a+, 45m. A sustained and technical wall.
2) 6b, 40m. More of the same, just harder and steeper!
3) 6b+, 30m. Climb up and left to pass through a roof then continue directly up.
4) 6c or 6a/A0, 50m. Climb briefly up then reverse to the left to reach a corner (6c or a fixed rope for 4m - check rope for wear). Continue up the wall on good holds.
5) 5c, 50m. An easier pitch, following the ridge. There can be lichen on this pitch so don't drop your guard! Be aware of potential loose blocks. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Lovely five pitch climb at Brevent left of the Frison Roche. Bolted all the way, and with solid double-bolted belays. A little run-out and some loose rock, but excellent and very sustained climbing. 250m: 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 5c.

Ticklists

Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , TM Alps

Feedback

User Date Notes
mic.snow 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The fixed rope is an offense to climbers! To free that one move is really easy, in fact you have to do harder moves elsewhere on the route! It's only unnecessarily awkward because the fixed rope is in the way. Why not just remove the rope, and put a few extra bolts instead, so people can still easily aid it if they really need to. Then everyone else can actually climb the rock instead of this via ferrata bullshit. And then it would also make sense to move R3, the start of P4, 2 meters to the left, so the belayer can actually see the climber around the corner. This wouldn't change anything for the climbing on P3 or P4, because that's a ledge anyway.
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βeta: The fixed rope is an offense to climbers! To free that one move is really easy, in fact you have to do harder moves elsewhere on the route! It's only unnecessarily awkward because the fixed rope is in the way. Why not just remove the rope, and put a few extra bolts instead, so people can still easily aid it if they really need to. Then everyone else can actually climb the rock instead of this via ferrata bullshit. And then it would also make sense to move R3, the start of P4, 2 meters to the left, so the belayer can actually see the climber around the corner. This wouldn't change anything for the climbing on P3 or P4, because that's a ledge anyway.
themattyshep 1 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tat on the 6c pitch gets in the way of your actually climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tat on the 6c pitch gets in the way of your actually climbing.

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Voting
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 18
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Contanouk

Grade: TD+ 6b ***
(Petites Jorasses)

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