UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
14m.

Rockfax Description
A worthwhile pitch. Make bouldery moves up the rounded arete until some hard moves lead left to a good hold below the roof. Pull past the overhang and manoeuvre up the still difficult wall above to the top and lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the blunt arete and wall left of 99 rabid Feminists.
Boulder up the arete until hard moves lead left to a huge jug under the roof. Pull over then follow the tricky wall, initially on layaways, to the belay

Gary Gibson, Gordon A Jenkin 12/Aug/2006.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 6Cs with stars near Bristol

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
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