Gwynedd > Craig Cwm Glas Bach >
 
El Guide Direct* E3 5c

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[FatRob taking his time and posing for the camera., 1 kb]40m. Pokey and contrived.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist.

Photo: FatRob taking his time and posing for the camera. © mike lawrence?
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 103 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/14 with Mike Goldthorp

tim newton - 2nd rpt - 05/Sep/14 with rachel slater

Tricky warm-up...
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14 with Tim Newton

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14 with Jerry Handren

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/14 with Nick Bullock

Felt quite hard for E3.
R2B - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Justin

Justin T - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Russ


wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with nic

mynyddresident - 2nd rpt - 02/Jul/14 with wolf

Soft and rambly
Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Jack Lawledge

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

Rob Pitt - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Nick B

Lenny - 2nd - 16/Apr/14 with Steve

oliverpcain - Lead O/S - 2014

Thought the top would be the hardest bit to lead, short but intense.
mike lawrence? - 2nd - 23/Jul/13 with FatRob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with sam read

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - 21/Jul/13 with Simon huges

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Darren McMaster

Found the climbing quite sequency (managed to keep getting the wrong sequence all the way up!) and technical but not too tricky, though the end was pretty steep! Gear didn't look that convincing on it but a cool route none the less.
shed_hed - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/13 with Dougie Swanson-Low

redjerry - TR O/S - 12/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead β - 09/Jul/13

Andrew Barker - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/13 with Si

Speeddemonsi - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13

I lead this the day before, going right from low in the initial crack to an obvious spike and up and left from there. That was pretty hard to read...maybe e3/4 5c/6a and not the line (I presume). Saw the pictures of people on the routes in the 2 guides and realised they'd gone up the crack for a few moves and then up to the ledge. Seconded it that way today and it's 5b that way. The cc llanberis description is just a bit confusing considering it mentions a spike and there's a really obvious spike further out right. Not pokey or contrived as it says on the description here. A 1 or 2 star route well worth doing and a good warm up for the harder routes.
tim newton - 2nd rpt - 18/Jun/13 with brad reed

tim newton - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/13 with rich gentry

nathanlee - 2nd - 25/May/13 with Dom Lee

dominic lee - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with nathan lee

LRob - Lead O/S - 2013

Jenny Crook - 2nd - 28/Aug/12 with John Houlden, Rob Patchett

wi11 - 2nd β - 12/Aug/12 with Ben

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12

Ewan Russell - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Connor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/12

matt perks - 2012

sam820 - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Callum

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Sep/11

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 04/Aug/11 with Andy

Initially put off by the mixed feedback. However, once you suss the right line (don't climb to the end of the initial crack) and find the two bomber wires it's fine. Good moves across to the arete and up.
mynyddresident - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Al

really good climb. 5bish first crux then a rest then 5c crux. pretty well protected. i got pretty pumped at the top, first welsh E3.
al123 - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with nic

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 06/Jun/11 with Liam

Liam FLeming - 06/Jun/11 with luke brooks

Dave Almond - 2nd - 30/Apr/11 with Simon Frost

frost - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with D Almond

Dunx - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Luke Hodson

al99 - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Ben Jones

Superb route
lukehodson - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Duncan

martinazando - 2nd dog - 30/Apr/11 with lukehodson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/11

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

HamishD - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Wil Treasure

drysori - Lead β - 04/Sep/10 with hamdunn

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

Whats all the fuss about? there's two big rests on the route after the two hard sections. The first hard bit is ok, bout 5b/5c with a reach, the 'crux' felt really straight forward and well protected, i didn't even find the 1.5 cam slot as mentioned but there's a bomber number 4 just where you want it. E2 5c
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with lee wales

feilx - 2nd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Andy L

La Mont - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10 with felix coxwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10

catblack - 2nd dog - 26/Jun/10 with Andy Barker

Nails if you follow the exact guidebook line to the spike and back left at the start - felt like E3 6a. The rest wasn't as scary as I was expecting. Shouldn't this be in the Hidden Wall Section?
Andrew Barker - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Cat Black

ewen - 2nd - 22/Jun/10 with neil stabbs

JulesV - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/10

ksjs - 2nd rpt - 24/May/10 with pete

Rich Kirby - 2nd O/S - 23/May/10 with Ewan

Great route, crux section is a bit insecure and airy but gear seemed bomb for the 'slopey guppy' section
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with George Ulrich

am really in 2 minds about this route: i rarely onsight E3 as a warm up yet did so on this 2 years ago. then today i just couldnt commit on lead to last moves and had thoughts of a groundfall if my good nut should rip. i see Alex's comments too and, from his log, he knows what hes up to. all quite weird. the combination of nut, friend and small friend in slot on left all however probably do make this E3 (E2 even?) and no more: 1 delicate move by gear after a stand up rest.
ksjs - 2nd rpt - 17/May/10 with jo

strange one this! started RK and got rail but decided i needed / wanted small cams. tried to finish on EGD but was quite casual and skipped / forgot about the cam placement. then had a bit of a moment mid-crux and decided to reverse and lower. didnt really 'set' myself properly for either RK or EGD - poor but insightful
ksjs - Lead dnf - 17/May/10 with jo

simonp - Lead O/S - May/10 with Lucy Ham

Pleasant enough.
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead O/S - May/10

zero six - Lead O/S - May/10

Luke Brooks - 2nd - 11/Apr/10

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Ben

soph - 01/Jan/10

Took over from ben, terrifying. Sketchy gear after initial crack traverse, which gets no better once you move up to the slopey guppie move onto the top, thought i was gunna deck from near the top on slopey stretchy moves. (just read other comments wtf?)
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/09 with Ben alsford

Hidden - Oct/09

barni - Lead dog - 25/Sep/09 with Liam fleming

Liam FLeming - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/09 with barni

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with james

Stig - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Greg

Toby Dunn - Lead - 23/Jun/09 with Andy Reeve

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with Nick Arding

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Andy Reeve, Dan Mc and Tristan

miastacey - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Bob Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/May/09

Hidden - Lead rpt - May/09

Boy - Apr/09 with Nige Kershaw

Pete Graham - 2nd - Apr/09 with Luke Porter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/08

First E3, probably only E2 aswell. But I got up!
Dan 85 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Francis

a quality pitch. a friend 2 (wild country) will suffice for the friend placement (referred to in north wales rock) and theres a good nut above this anyway (it can be placed from same position)
ksjs - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with mark

Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/06 with will sim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2006

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2nd β - 25/Jun/05 with Ed Brown

sadams - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/98 with Andy Bowie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/97

Ched - 2nd - 1997 with IwanJones

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
richardr, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E40 of 22
E40 of 22
easy E42 of 22
hard E39 of 22
E39 of 22
easy E31 of 22
hard E21 of 22
E20 of 22
easy E20 of 22
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a0 of 22
hard 5c7 of 22
5c14 of 22
easy 5c0 of 22
hard 5b1 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
3 Stars1 of 21
2 Stars15 of 21
1 Star5 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent

Lead59 of 103 (57.3%)
Followed33 of 103 (32.0%)
Toproped1 of 103 (1.0%)
Alt Leads1 of 103 (1.0%)
Unknown9 of 103 (8.7%)

'Climbed'26 of 103 (25.2%)
clean O/S61 of 103 (59.2%)
clean β4 of 103 (3.9%)
clean rpt8 of 103 (7.8%)
dogged3 of 103 (2.9%)
dnf1 of 103 (1.0%)