Spigolo Gallo (Yellow Edge)*** VI+
350m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Dolomite classic that is a rite of passage for many making a trip to the Tre Cime. The route is suffering somewhat from its popularity now and the first couple of pitches in particular are very polished. Whilst the climbing is good and the positions fantastic don't expect to be clinging to the arete for the whole route. Once the route moves around to the southeast face you will find yourself buried in a series of strenuous chimneys with some awkward route finding.
Start immediately right of a metal plaque, to the left of the arete, below a yellow corner.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the polished yellow corner to a good stance on the right.
2) VI-, 30m. Continue up the corner keeping left of an overhang, then tackle an overhanging crack to a belay below a yellow crack.
3) III+, 40m. Move right up easier grey rock. Climb past a pillar and continue direct, then slightly right again, to a belay on a terrace.
4) III+, 30m. Move right on easy ground, pass a small yellow roof on its right, then continue up slightly vegetated rock leftwards to a stance below a corner.
5) V-, 30m. Climb the corner direct, move right below a small roof then continue direct up a slab. Move back left on a good ledge visible from below.
6) IV, 30m. Step out right and climb direct over the next ledge and on to the one above. Step left to a belay.
7) IV, 15m. Traverse left along the ledge, level with a horizontal crack, to a belay on the arete.
8) V+, 25m, Climb direct, then move right of the arete then back left to a well-pegged belay just left of the arete.
9) VI+, 30m. Move back right of the arete, following a ramp right, to reach a yellow corner. Climb this (strenuous but well protected) to a good belay about halfway up.
10) V+, 25m. Do not carry on up the corner but, instead, move left under a small roof. Cross onto the left of the arete and continue climbing slightly left across a series of small ledges. Belay below a small roof.
11) V, 30m. Pull through the roof then climb the left-hand of two parallel cracks. Step right, crossing back onto the right of the arete and climb a crack to a terrace.
12) V+, 30m Move left, climb a flake direct, then continue left. Move back right to a wide crack and climb this to a ledge.
13) V, 30m. Continue in the crack then move left on easier broken rock to the top. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Follows of the line of the striking southern arete. The situations are stunningly exposed. The alpine guide gives it VI+.


Emile Comici 1931
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 27 wishlists.

tuukka - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/14 with Erik

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/14

8.5 hours. Passed by two teams, about 45 minutes waiting time. Awesome!
farkas.time - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Devin

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 08/Aug/13 with Matt Helliker

Dave Parton - 22/Jul/13 with Adam Ellwood

Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Richard Lade

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

Lenny - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Phil .N

cool, tho we were one of four teams climbing all over each other!
nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with monsteratt

Did this as shorter alternative to Comici due to cock up with campsite barrier (doh!). Was enjoyable anyway, felt quite relaxed. Ended up climbing with two other parties. Did in good time. Managed to knock some loose rock on a following guide (not nice for all involved). Fortunately she was OK. Some good pitches in amongst some looseness. Somehow managed to avoid leading either of the harder pitches. Nice straight forward descent.
monsteratt - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Nick Whimster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/11

Brilliant. Snow-filled gully made the descent very interesting!
whistler - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with Dan Simmons

mid v pitch felt harder than the 2 ivs. stunning route with exciting snow gully descent
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/11 with piotr

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - Aug/10 with Joe

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Graham, El Toro

spectacular route, exposure is nuts and some pretty airy hanging belays! one of the best routes ive done
Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/10 with kat torr, jonnie williams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Sep/09

moonlit descent.
dominic lee - Lead - 05/Sep/09 with nathan lee

wonderfully exposed!
nathanlee - 2nd β - Sep/09

Rich Kirby - AltLd - 21/Aug/09 with Nige

nige - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/09 with richard kirby

Exellent day out. Recommend finishing with the Tre Cima pub crawl!
JulesV - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/09 with Will Boxen

billb - AltLd O/S - Aug/09 with jbvulliamy

Found cruxes hard despite being on second, we were a bit slow
tommytuffa - AltLd dog - 04/Jul/09 with Felix

At times lovely climbing. The two slightly overhanging corner crux pitches were burly but brilliant. Rock loose in places but mainly on easier ground. We took too long.
felixthelion - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/09 with T. Brookes

mirise - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/09 with Katerina Matyushevskaja

Nicos - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jul/07

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/07 with martina

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/07

Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - Jul/07 with Kirsten Campbell

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05

haydng - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Rachel

Lovely day, the situations are better than the climbing - a stunning line but loose rock in places.
BenTiffin - AltLd O/S - Aug/03 with Dan Robinson

rained a lot
simon kimber - AltLd - Aug/03 with Paul Burren

Amazing line. Shame the climbing isn't quite as good but still a memorable route.
BenTiffin - AltLd - Jul/03 with Dan Robinson

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 08/Sep/02 with Steve Wells

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/01 with RGraves

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/99

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/88

mark-abz - AltLd - 30/Jul/83 with Walter P

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/82

Hidden - Aug/80

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/79

On route at 5.45am,summit at 14.30. A superb route to finish holiday with. Most of it technically VS apart from 70' A1 and 400' D/VD. The traverse was sensational and pitches one & two strenuous especially at 6am. Descent easy with 6 abseils. A fantastic and memorable experience
Peter Main - 2nd - 18/Aug/74 with Robin Andrews & Martin Bennett

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/74

jcw - 1965 with Christian Mollier

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
C Witter, Dilwat, paulpitcher, Liam Ingram, spacecadetjake, centurion05, katherinesydney, madeleine, Brendan, MonkeyDawson, ab tat, langar27, pete87abs, jazzyjackson, Tom_Harding, Sankey, Dr Caterpillar, Protheroe, rob askew

Voting
Total votes cast 17
hard VII-0 of 6
VII-0 of 6
easy VII-0 of 6
hard VI+0 of 6
VI+2 of 6
easy VI+0 of 6
hard VI4 of 6
VI0 of 6
easy VI0 of 6
3 Stars8 of 11
2 Stars3 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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