Devon > The Dewerstone >
 
Scimitar* E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Central Groove
 
Scimitar Direct >>
[Scimitar - solo, 3 kb]Takes the centre of the wall to the right of Central Groove. Follow the first 12' of CG, then take a step R onto the hanging slab. Ascend this, fix some (extended) gear under the roof, then make a gruesome move to establish oneself a the foot of the main wall. Protected with friends, this gets easier but bolder higher up. Belay as per CG.
1968

Photo: Scimitar - solo © leadmat
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Lead pitch 1, ended by escaping up Central Groove as desired finish was wet, with darkness and rain approaching fast.
gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Nick Stephens

Went left to Vala/Leviathan belay half way up headwall after rain came in quite heavy.
gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Nick Stephens

First attempt to lead an E1, epic upside down fall just after crux, great fun.... to pumped for second attempt that evening! Ill bag her soon!!!
clubmanpete - Lead - 13/Aug/13

Hinchrn - 2nd β - 22/Jul/13

Top roped on a quiet evening Was proper buzzin Keen to get an E1 lead in by the end of the year now
clubmanpete - TR - 19/Jul/13

Philippa Arding - 2nd - Jul/13 with nick arding

The face after the overhang is poorly protected. Happy to second! Skipped the big overhang on top.
pelvoux - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Chris Bull

MrWiggles - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with lewis stuart

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Katy Vose

scimitar direct as per SW rockfax; great climb, adequate gear (cams) on upper wall
nickdonohue - Lead - Jul/11 with Pete Merrick

A tad artificial
tcn_2002 - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Katherine Sydney

leohl - 2nd - Sep/10 with Jonathon Cook

jcook1980 - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Luke Holmes

Homes - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Jonny C

jcook1980 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

chappers909 - 2nd - 23/Jun/10 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

I really dont see what everyone was moaning about, the move round the roof was a very straight forward layback move. Didnt have trouble. Positive holds above, on runout but good gear (i.e. no decking) cams essential int he lower ranges.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Chris Full

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Chris Reid

nick arding - 17/May/10

Luke d - TR O/S - 30/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/09

The desperate move around the roof spat me off repeatedly (I'm crap at roofs in general though so possibly it's not that bad really!) The crimpy wall above is absolutley phenominal though.
Rob84 - 2nd dog - 23/May/09 with Dave

Fantastic route
dave657 - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Rob Dyer

Rock Lizard - AltLd - May/09

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - Apr/09

eugeneth - 2nd β - 03/Jun/08 with Seb

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/May/08

Dave Searle - Lead - 10/Jun/07 with sim

Nice - tough move around the roof, then some bold crimping above. Had a non-optimal selection of cams which meant protection in the horizontal breaks could have been better.
AJM - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Alex Gaastra

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 19/May/07 with Simon Denison

chalk monster - TR - 19/May/07 with richard

climber sim - 2007

Cardi - 2nd dog - Jun/06 with Mike D

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/01

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2000 with Rich Smith

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

NickP - 2000

leadmat - Solo rpt - 1993

Nigel Coe - TR - 23/Sep/92

sdht - 1990

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/84

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Lumbering Oaf, Dale Turrell, solenostomus, nickstephens, graham knott, Hidden, Phil79, Hidden, Luke90, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 20
hard E20 of 7
E20 of 7
easy E20 of 7
hard E10 of 7
E17 of 7
easy E10 of 7
hard HVS0 of 7
HVS0 of 7
easy HVS0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
hard 5b6 of 6
5b0 of 6
easy 5b0 of 6
hard 5a0 of 6
5a0 of 6
easy 5a0 of 6
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars7 of 7
1 Star0 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 48 (2.1%)
Lead22 of 48 (45.8%)
Followed14 of 48 (29.2%)
Toproped4 of 48 (8.3%)
Alt Leads2 of 48 (4.2%)
Unknown5 of 48 (10.4%)

'Climbed'21 of 48 (43.8%)
clean O/S20 of 48 (41.7%)
clean β3 of 48 (6.2%)
clean rpt1 of 48 (2.1%)
dogged3 of 48 (6.2%)