Takes the centre of the wall to the right of Central Groove. Follow the first 12' of CG, then take a step R onto the hanging slab. Ascend this, fix some (extended) gear under the roof, then make a gruesome move to establish oneself a the foot of the main wall. Protected with friends, this gets easier but bolder higher up. Belay as per CG.


ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
Steeve 13/Sep AltLd
martin one 06/Jun 2nd O/S
jamie ward 21/May 2nd O/S

Rested on rope on top pitch!!

Nick Donahue
nickdonohue 21/May Lead

Brilliant! Cheeky pull up under overhang on 2nd pitch (as per rockfax). Found no 4 camelot nice for the wide crack!

Jackislav 25/Mar Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, great route, face climbing was very enjoyable! Section above the roof on P2 is a bit mossy

Tom '14 25/Mar 2nd dog

My hardest second to date. Gave Jack Gray's anchors a good test trying to retrieve a stuck nut on the first overhang (he had told me about it being stuck in situ). Great to do something with a higher tech grade.

Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead
jon_gill1 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A great route which we then went left from the belay to top out up the E1 overhang.Ross led that pitch and I seconded but a knee bar slipped out and I fell off. Chuffed with the main event though. 2nd pitch was a good lead by Ross.

ross garfoot
adam84 19/Aug/14 -

Absolutely fantastic climb, crux threw me off, climbed past it up face, crimpy micropigs face is awesome if not a little bold for the lead. Hope to complete the crux next time should sunlight permit

waydan 19/Aug/14 AltLd
Adam Buldock, El Swiftos
darcan 02/Aug/14 Lead
Wendy 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tom Ball
Hidden 13/Jul/14 2nd O/S
JulesClimbs 01/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf
gg4419 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Eventually got on the last pitch and now ticked the whole route, third time lucky!

Kirill 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Straightforward climbing, but exciting. Loved it!

Philine Huß
gg4419 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, ended by escaping up Central Groove as desired finish was wet, with darkness and rain approaching fast.

Hidden ??/2014 -
gg4419 15/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Went left to Vala/Leviathan belay half way up headwall after rain came in quite heavy.

clubmanpete 13/Aug/13 Lead

First attempt to lead an E1, epic upside down fall just after crux, great fun.... to pumped for second attempt that evening! Ill bag her soon!!!

Hinchrn 22/Jul/13 2nd β
clubmanpete 19/Jul/13 TR

Top roped on a quiet evening Was proper buzzin Keen to get an E1 lead in by the end of the year now

Philippa Arding ?/Jul/13 2nd
nick arding
pelvoux 25/May/13 2nd O/S

The face after the overhang is poorly protected. Happy to second! Skipped the big overhang on top.

Chris Bull
MrWiggles 19/Apr/13 2nd O/S
lewis stuart
Hidden ?/Apr/13 2nd O/S
i_a_coops 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
tatz45 05/Aug/11 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 19/Jun/11 2nd

A tad artificial

quiffhanger 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Bobby Gilbert 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
leohl ?/Sep/10 2nd
jcook1980 30/Aug/10 2nd
Homes 30/Aug/10 Lead
Jonny C
jcook1980 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
chappers909 23/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
El3ctroFuzz 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

I really dont see what everyone was moaning about, the move round the roof was a very straight forward layback move. Didnt have trouble. Positive holds above, on runout but good gear (i.e. no decking) cams essential int he lower ranges.

Chris Full
PaulTanton 30/May/10 Lead O/S
nick arding 17/May/10 -
Luke d 30/Aug/09 TR O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Rob84 23/May/09 2nd dog

The desperate move around the roof spat me off repeatedly (I'm crap at roofs in general though so possibly it's not that bad really!) The crimpy wall above is absolutley phenominal though.

Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Rock Lizard ?/May/09 AltLd
Graham Westbrook ?/Apr/09 2nd
eugeneth 03/Jun/08 2nd β
Hidden 25/May/08 2nd dog
Dave Searle 10/Jun/07 Lead
AJM ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Nice - tough move around the roof, then some bold crimping above. Had a non-optimal selection of cams which meant protection in the horizontal breaks could have been better.

Owen W-G 19/May/07 Lead O/S
Simon Denison
Hidden 19/May/07 TR
climber sim ??/2007 -
Cardi ?/Jun/06 2nd dog
Mike D
Hidden 04/Sep/03 Lead
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/01 Lead O/S
jmhood ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rich Smith
andy_pemberton ??/2000 Lead
NickP ??/2000 -
Simon cook ??/1997 -
leadmat ??/1993 Solo rpt
Nigel Coe 23/Sep/92 TR
sdht ??/1990 -
Hidden 06/Oct/84 Lead β
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 10
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set