Devon > The Dewerstone >
 
Scimitar* E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Central Groove
 
Scimitar Direct >>
[Scimitar Direct, 1 kb]Takes the centre of the wall to the right of Central Groove. Follow the first 12' of CG, then take a step R onto the hanging slab. Ascend this, fix some (extended) gear under the roof, then make a gruesome move to establish oneself a the foot of the main wall. Protected with friends, this gets easier but bolder higher up. Belay as per CG.
1968

Photo: Scimitar Direct © Paddy
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

A great route which we then went left from the belay to top out up the E1 overhang.Ross led that pitch and I seconded but a knee bar slipped out and I fell off. Chuffed with the main event though. 2nd pitch was a good lead by Ross.
jon_gill1 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with ross garfoot

Absolutely fantastic climb, crux threw me off, climbed past it up face, crimpy micropigs face is awesome if not a little bold for the lead. Hope to complete the crux next time should sunlight permit
adam84 - 19/Aug/14 with darren swift, wayne killerstein

waydan - AltLd - 19/Aug/14 with Adam Buldock, El Swiftos

darcan - Lead - 02/Aug/14

Wendy - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Tom Ball

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/14

JulesClimbs - 2nd dog - 01/Jul/14 with Paul

NaCl - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/14 with Colin Hodder

Eventually got on the last pitch and now ticked the whole route, third time lucky!
gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 03/May/14 with Nick Stephens

Straightforward climbing, but exciting. Loved it!
Kirill - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14 with Philine Huß

Lead pitch 1, ended by escaping up Central Groove as desired finish was wet, with darkness and rain approaching fast.
gg4419 - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Nick Stephens

Hidden - 2014

Went left to Vala/Leviathan belay half way up headwall after rain came in quite heavy.
gg4419 - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/13 with Nick Stephens

First attempt to lead an E1, epic upside down fall just after crux, great fun.... to pumped for second attempt that evening! Ill bag her soon!!!
clubmanpete - Lead - 13/Aug/13

Hinchrn - 2nd β - 22/Jul/13

Top roped on a quiet evening Was proper buzzin Keen to get an E1 lead in by the end of the year now
clubmanpete - TR - 19/Jul/13

Philippa Arding - 2nd - Jul/13 with nick arding

The face after the overhang is poorly protected. Happy to second! Skipped the big overhang on top.
pelvoux - 2nd O/S - 25/May/13 with Chris Bull

MrWiggles - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/13 with lewis stuart

alice fuller - 2nd O/S - Apr/13 with Will Hornby

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

tatz45 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Katy Vose

A tad artificial
tcn_2002 - 2nd - 19/Jun/11

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/11

Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Katherine Sydney

leohl - 2nd - Sep/10 with Jonathon Cook

jcook1980 - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Luke Holmes

Homes - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Jonny C

jcook1980 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

chappers909 - 2nd - 23/Jun/10 with Jay Jackson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10

I really dont see what everyone was moaning about, the move round the roof was a very straight forward layback move. Didnt have trouble. Positive holds above, on runout but good gear (i.e. no decking) cams essential int he lower ranges.
El3ctroFuzz - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Chris Full

PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with Chris Reid

nick arding - 17/May/10

Luke d - TR O/S - 30/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/09

The desperate move around the roof spat me off repeatedly (I'm crap at roofs in general though so possibly it's not that bad really!) The crimpy wall above is absolutley phenominal though.
Rob84 - 2nd dog - 23/May/09 with Dave

Fantastic route
dave657 - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Rob Dyer

Rock Lizard - AltLd - May/09

Graham Westbrook - 2nd - Apr/09

eugeneth - 2nd β - 03/Jun/08 with Seb

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/May/08

Dave Searle - Lead - 10/Jun/07 with sim

Nice - tough move around the roof, then some bold crimping above. Had a non-optimal selection of cams which meant protection in the horizontal breaks could have been better.
AJM - Lead O/S - Jun/07 with Alex Gaastra

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 19/May/07 with Simon Denison

chalk monster - TR - 19/May/07 with richard

climber sim - 2007

Cardi - 2nd dog - Jun/06 with Mike D

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/03

Rob Pitt - Lead O/S - 2003

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/01

jmhood - Lead O/S - 2000 with Rich Smith

andy_pemberton - Lead - 2000

NickP - 2000

leadmat - Solo rpt - 1993

Nigel Coe - TR - 23/Sep/92

sdht - 1990

Hidden - Lead β - 06/Oct/84

Hidden - 1979

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
chrisweight, Hidden, Lumbering Oaf, Dale Turrell, solenostomus, nickstephens, graham knott, Hidden, Phil79, Hidden, Luke90, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 28
hard E20 of 10
E20 of 10
easy E20 of 10
hard E11 of 10
E19 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS0 of 10
HVS0 of 10
easy HVS0 of 10
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b8 of 9
5b1 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars9 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 59 (1.7%)
Lead26 of 59 (44.1%)
Followed17 of 59 (28.8%)
Toproped4 of 59 (6.8%)
Alt Leads4 of 59 (6.8%)
Unknown7 of 59 (11.9%)

'Climbed'24 of 59 (40.7%)
clean O/S26 of 59 (44.1%)
clean β3 of 59 (5.1%)
clean rpt1 of 59 (1.7%)
dogged4 of 59 (6.8%)
dnf1 of 59 (1.7%)