Excellent climbing with a short bold crux and good holds on the roof, Best approached from the right (As Destiny) or by abseil from the huge thread at the top of the crag.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK.

Dizz 05/Sep 2nd rpt
with EJ
Nick Wallis ?/Sep 2nd β
with James Hall, Stan
tim.fairhall 31/Aug 2nd O/S
with Sachi
jsmcfarland 31/Aug Lead O/S

E2 for how poorly protected and run out the route is. I basically solo'd up to the mini-ledge before the roof, placed a superlight offset the size of a large matchstick, then got some absolutely bomber gear in the weird undercut pockets before the crux. I was mainlining on adrenaline and fear by this point. Clipped the crap looking peg just to have 1 more quickdraw on my rope. The crux is totally different to the route and is actually a bit of a relief having huge jugs to swing around on, though the moves are pretty hard. Complete sandbag in the guidebook on what is actually a pretty dangerous route. Wouldn't recommend to anyone unless they have a good head and are totally solid at sketchy E1/E2. That said, it is good!

with Tim
Hidden 19/Sep/14 Lead O/S
smolders 17/Sep/14 2nd
rd20 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S


with Martin
Nick Russell 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I led the easy P1; Alex P2. A bit of a runout there! Nice juggy climbing through the roof.

Alex Winter 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led crux second pitch. Wasn't expecting the runout to the roof. Put the fear of god into me.

with Steve, Nick
SJS 10/Sep/14 2nd
with Alex, Nick
khalidq 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Chris Bull
pimpy 04/Sep/14 Lead dnf

scary run out, backed off 3m from overlap

burto 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with the pimp
AndyL 01/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Bold, delicate face climbing contrasted with a safe and thuggish finish.

with seamus
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
guy757 21/Aug/14 -
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Mr Powly ??/2014 AltLd

Alt leads, because I lead the bold part and couldn't do the steep bit, so swapped with Rozzy who finished it off.

with Rozzy
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Brian Rodgers 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Esther Bott, Simon Pape
Justin T 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Nancy
Kevster 08/Sep/13 2nd rpt

Thinner on gear than I recall.

tonevert 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
Johnny Baker ??/2013 -
James Oswald 20/Sep/12 Lead rpt

A scary ascent. Upon getting to the belay it began to drizzle incredibly lightly. Began climbing quickly to get out of there soon. The juggy 5a wall started to get wetter as the rain increased. After getting a stack of reasonable RPs in I downclimbed but as I did a hand slipped off a wet hold. 3 RPs held me, the shit one fell out. It then stopped raining and I got on with it, albeit quite gripped. The moves through the roof are burly and hard for 5b. Tough climbing, leave an ab rope in place to aid the ascent of the horrendous loose slope. Was glad for colin lowering a loop of the ab rope down to us. Much better to ab into than walk across from around the indy 500. Super route.

with Gwilym
Joris.Roulleau 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S

scary, although the climbing is easy

philhilo 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Bold for e1.ran out of time for destiny. Roof easy.

with Helen E
Hidden 14/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Kevster 14/Sep/12 2nd
with Will T
mjeffery 14/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Rob
Hidden 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Nick Wallis ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Martin Cooper
timtimpeggy ?/Aug/12 -
with Ev
Robin Woodward ?/Aug/12 Lead
Alex the Alex ?/Aug/12 2nd
Andy Clarke 07/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Good choice for greasy conditions, with positive holds on edges and flakes. Led P1. Gave myself black eye extricating gear above roof!

with Tim
nickstephens 05/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Voitech
Dale ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

really run it out up to the roof on the what i thought run out 5a climbing. Again greasy well I accept it now. Moves threw roof great fun big jugs easy 5b. top route. This sea salt grease is making things more fun for me anyway.

with mike
Liam FLeming 25/Aug/11 Lead
with karen dalzell
Hidden 18/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
spondulix 16/Aug/11 TR O/S
with Ben
soph ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Dan McManus
Dizz 15/Sep/10 2nd
with Richard S
ferdia 09/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

led crux pitch. stunning.

with Giles Cornah, Andrew Wielochowski
nickstephens 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Justin Ford, Nancy Jones
cem 07/Sep/10 2nd rpt
with Patrick Hutchison
Hidden 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 05/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Fantastic booming flake climbing up the face without much gear. lots of gear just below hard pull through the roof.

3 Names 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead O/S
irish paul 31/May/10 2nd O/S
with Dave Ripley
Hidden 26/May/10 TR
monika paprzycka 26/May/10 TR
datoon 31/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with K & AB
khawk 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with AB, DT
lukea 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Al
Adam Booth 21/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/09 2nd
chris wyatt 16/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Great route. Nik got the plum pitch. WARNING: Our abseil rope was badly cut here and I believe there is danger that some of the cemented in blocks on the mud slope could be pulled off. Take care!

with Nik and Hugh
Hidden 16/Sep/08 Lead β
morganator 02/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Graham Schofield
AJ007 02/Sep/08 Lead

fell once, then completed. Very wet as rain storm came in while on the route.

with Dan
dan gibson 02/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with AJ
AJM 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Great route. Bit wet under the roof, and bold in the middle, but great fun.

zero six ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd
Steve Crowe ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S
HughM ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with notgnarly
Hidden 08/Sep/05 Lead O/S
cem 16/Aug/04 Lead rpt
with Dave Amos
cem 14/Sep/02 2nd
Roget 06/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Al Evans ??/2000 -
with Geraldine Taylor
DafSWMC ?/Sep/98 AltLd

Lead 1st(4b)

with ICMC
Hidden 15/Aug/98 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/97 Lead
eroica64 ?/Sep/90 Lead O/S

Terrific solid E1.

with Denis Crampton
Steve Bell ??/1990 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, mapperley samurai, RFWilkie, mcb, ajeakins, Hidden, oliverk
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set