Minus One Direct*** E1 5b
[Minus One Direct crux: Looking up works best, 3 kb]**** in SMC Guide

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, The Road to Shibboleth, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Minus One Direct crux: Looking up works best © hwackerhage
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 54 logbooks, and on 71 wishlists.

Very good route but there are some serious blocks to watch out for - often poised directly above the belayer! P1, accidentally soloed. P2, wet but straightforward. P3, 4c on wet and poor rock initially but improves with height. P4, 5b and awesome, good gear. P5, 5b with a defined, well protected crux. P6, very easy 4c. P7, 5b spectacular traverse with a hard pull through the overlap. In situ nut and cam. P8, 4c with some horribly loose blocks at the top. Moved together for the rest of the route and NE buttress all the way to the summit. Epic day out!
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with jonskippy

An amazing route, don't be out off buy the first three pitches!
jonskippy - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/14 with benclimbing

redjerry - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Paul Wood

They aren't joking about that block on pitch 3! Pitch 4 is very serious but steady. After pitch 4 the route finding became difficult and we ended up lost after 6 pitches with it getting dark. 3 pitches left took us to NEB. Lots of loose rock, moss filled cracks and less than inspiring gear marred this classic for me. If someone would like to show me where the route goes after pitch 4 then that would be great!
Liam Ingram - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Jamie Sparkes

difficult route finding! more detail here: http://bit.ly/14YNJAx
JamieSparkes - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Liam Ingram

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

AGoodi - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with carlos

an Alpine class route. some great climbing on mostly good rock except pitch 3 where a horror block is poised for an extinction level event! With the NE buttress finish it must have been 12 pitches and some moving together. Snow pack at the bottom of point 5 gully was pretty hard and we used rocks as ice daggers and cut steps in a Laurel and Hardy style while being pelted with rocks by Jeffries on Tower Ridge. Amazing day out.
jazzyjackson - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with sebrider

What a great route of almost alpine proportions :) There is a large dubious block on pitch 3. Just after this and to the left (5m) are two smaller blocks stacked on top of one another. Don't pull on them the will come out...perhaps they should be trundled. Cleans up very nicely after pitch 3 :)
sebrider - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with jazzyjackson

m dunn - 2012

Yeh this route suffers from drainage so p1 - 3 are wet but climbable with gear to be found. P4 5a is hard to read, best to go straight up from the recess and the lower section was wet, although it improves with height - as does the rest of the route. Tricky move on the last 4C pitch on the slab. Romping up and down ledge route took ages! Well worth doing :]
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Alex

Bit too loose on the third pitch for my liking, big block at 6 metres as per description is totally gonna go and is directly above the belayer! Didn't really think it deserved 4 stars, the traverse under the roof is good, but on the whole 1 star max.
GraemeDiack - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Keith Alexander

KeithAlexander - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Graeme Diack

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/11

A bit damp on the first 2 pitches but superb climbing thereafter. Went a bit too far left on 5a pitch which meant an extra pitch to get back on track. Finished up NE Buttress, a grand day out.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 23/Jul/11 with Gary

A fantastic route. Quite cold for July, we had to wear hats under our helmets and gloves at each belay. The two 5b pitches are excellent.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Ewan Lyons

with serendipity and arete variations.
tim newton - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with will sim, john crook

Exodus - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Will Sim

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

First two pitches were wet, loose and gearless, I would have backed off but Neil perservered thankfully.I ended up only leading one as time was ticking.Middle pitches were fantastic and a nice blast up NEB was a pleasant finish.Great day out.
Sean Bell - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Neil Carnegie

Fantastic! Rained the night before so wet and slimy in places. Tricky moves are well protected though.
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Peter

Gustav - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with James H

Hidden - 2010

Serendipity Variation and then Arete variation.
MonkeyDawson - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/09 with Neil Redgrave

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/09

Ross Barnes - AltLd - 12/Sep/09 with Neil A

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Ross B

Alpine feel. 14 pitches with the North East Buttress finish. First 5b should be 5a and 5a pitch should be 5b in my opinion.
hwackerhage - 12/Sep/09 with Robbie Miller

cat22 - 2nd - 12/Sep/09 with Mike

R0bbie - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Henning Wackerhage

Hidden - 2nd - Jul/09

Hidden - 2009

Charlie wp Hill - AltLd - 2009

Like hell is this 4*s - it just shows how the Scottish star system has got so full of itself it's nearly useless. At best it's a 2* route on a 4* mountain, with 3 or 4 nice moves on some good rock. These plus points are almost justified by the enormous length, approach walk in and scramble and lengthy walk off and descent, but basically as a minimum you should probably enjoy these other aspects too if you want to get on it and have a 4* experience. I did the `serendipity' (?) 5a/b pitch and the 5b strip roof and it was raining in some form or other for most of the route.
Paz - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/08 with TS

sgl - AltLd - 26/May/08 with duncan

The first couple of pitches are not that great. Good climbing and great positions from then on. Easy for E1.
decs - AltLd O/S - 26/May/08 with Sam

Pete Graham - AltLd - 25/May/08 with Rick Graham, Ted Rogers

brilliant route easy climbing in a great position
WB - AltLd O/S - 25/May/08 with Guy

GuyM - AltLd - May/08 with will

smac - 2008

Excellent climbing with interesting route finding. Did Serindipity Variations. Arete variations look worthwhile for another visit. Descended by scrambling down and across south face of NEB.
Lone Rider - AltLd - 10/Jun/07 with R Webb and J Edwards

Dave Kerr - 15/Jul/06 with Nigel Holmes

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/04

alkira - 1996

a good route in great positions but somehow not in the same class as centurian and the bat
brianrunner - AltLd - 1996

mike lawrence? - 1995

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/92

Hidden - AltLd - 1989

David Smith - AltLd - 30/May/84 with Andrew (Pog) Horn

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
CaelanB, Ian Jones, pugilistswine, Hugh Simons, prcleary, hutchay, Andrew Wilson, Sadie, benclimbing, Swampi, Martin Haworth, gurumed, arose, Martin Davies, Gudge, JonmapDL, hobblingfool, radioshed, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Col Kingshott, scotclimb, gjd, oliverk, AWH, redshapedfriday, Dinger, IanMcC, freudy_love, jfmchivall, Ropeboy, ieverett, gavin88, Inti, unbezonking, Lawrie Brand, jonny taylor, HIGHTOWER, chris sm, James Humble, The Pylon King, Neil Mackenzie, andymoin, French Erick, 220bpm, nicholas Barrowclough

Voting
Total votes cast 64
hard E20 of 21
E20 of 21
easy E20 of 21
hard E10 of 21
E112 of 21
easy E18 of 21
hard HVS1 of 21
HVS0 of 21
easy HVS0 of 21
hard 5c0 of 21
5c0 of 21
easy 5c0 of 21
hard 5b0 of 21
5b11 of 21
easy 5b9 of 21
hard 5a1 of 21
5a0 of 21
easy 5a0 of 21
3 Stars19 of 22
2 Stars1 of 22
1 Star1 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....1 of 22
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Style of ascent

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Followed
Alt Leads
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Climbed
Clean O/S