Nath93 09/Sep AltLd O/S

Superb route, initial pitches are poor but stick with it. Serendipity and Arete variations are excellent and pull through that roof into the sunshine was total bliss! Route finding is not that difficult, Latters book kept us right. Been on the list for a while now so glad to finally tick it off!

Suzana 09/Sep AltLd O/S


CaelanB 08/Sep AltLd O/S

generally fairly easy for the grades. the first 5b pitch is more like 5a, though the 5a pitch is more like 5b. And the last 3 pitches are all 4a or unrated. There are loose blocks on the route, but no more so than any other mountain route, and you needn't worry too much about route finding. It isn't as hard as its reputation might suggest. we used the smc guide and had no problems. All in all maybe the best mountain route I've ever done?

benclimbing 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Very good route but there are some serious blocks to watch out for - often poised directly above the belayer! P1, accidentally soloed. P2, wet but straightforward. P3, 4c on wet and poor rock initially but improves with height. P4, 5b and awesome, good gear. P5, 5b with a defined, well protected crux. P6, very easy 4c. P7, 5b spectacular traverse with a hard pull through the overlap. In situ nut and cam. P8, 4c with some horribly loose blocks at the top. Moved together for the rest of the route and NE buttress all the way to the summit. Epic day out!

jonskippy 11/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

An amazing route, don't be put off buy the first three pitches!

redjerry 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wood
Liam Ingram 11/Jul/13 AltLd

They aren't joking about that block on pitch 3! Pitch 4 is very serious but steady. After pitch 4 the route finding became difficult and we ended up lost after 6 pitches with it getting dark. 3 pitches left took us to NEB. Lots of loose rock, moss filled cracks and less than inspiring gear marred this classic for me. If someone would like to show me where the route goes after pitch 4 then that would be great!

JamieSparkes 11/Jul/13 AltLd

difficult route finding! more detail here:

Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
AGoodi 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with carlos
jazzyjackson 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

an Alpine class route. some great climbing on mostly good rock except pitch 3 where a horror block is poised for an extinction level event! With the NE buttress finish it must have been 12 pitches and some moving together. Snow pack at the bottom of point 5 gully was pretty hard and we used rocks as ice daggers and cut steps in a Laurel and Hardy style while being pelted with rocks by Jeffries on Tower Ridge. Amazing day out.

with sebrider
sebrider 04/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

What a great route of almost alpine proportions :) There is a large dubious block on pitch 3. Just after this and to the left (5m) are two smaller blocks stacked on top of one another. Don't pull on them the will come out...perhaps they should be trundled. Cleans up very nicely after pitch 3 :)

with jazzyjackson
m dunn ??/2012 -
simon_D 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Yeh this route suffers from drainage so p1 - 3 are wet but climbable with gear to be found. P4 5a is hard to read, best to go straight up from the recess and the lower section was wet, although it improves with height - as does the rest of the route. Tricky move on the last 4C pitch on the slab. Romping up and down ledge route took ages! Well worth doing :]

with Alex
GraemeDiack 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Bit too loose on the third pitch for my liking, big block at 6 metres as per description is totally gonna go and is directly above the belayer! Didn't really think it deserved 4 stars, the traverse under the roof is good, but on the whole 1 star max.

KeithAlexander 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead
Captain Solo 23/Jul/11 AltLd

A bit damp on the first 2 pitches but superb climbing thereafter. Went a bit too far left on 5a pitch which meant an extra pitch to get back on track. Finished up NE Buttress, a grand day out.

with Gary
GaryK 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

A fantastic route. Quite cold for July, we had to wear hats under our helmets and gloves at each belay. The two 5b pitches are excellent.

with Ewan Lyons
tim newton 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

with serendipity and arete variations.

Exodus 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Will Sim
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Sean Bell 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

First two pitches were wet, loose and gearless, I would have backed off but Neil perservered thankfully.I ended up only leading one as time was ticking.Middle pitches were fantastic and a nice blast up NEB was a pleasant finish.Great day out.

with Neil Carnegie
jamestheyip 08/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic! Rained the night before so wet and slimy in places. Tricky moves are well protected though.

with Peter
Gustav 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with James H
Hidden ??/2010 -
MonkeyDawson 15/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Serendipity Variation and then Arete variation.

with Neil Redgrave
Hidden 14/Sep/09 2nd
Ross Barnes 12/Sep/09 AltLd
with Neil A
Neil Adams 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Ross B
hwackerhage 12/Sep/09 -

Alpine feel. 14 pitches with the North East Buttress finish. First 5b should be 5a and 5a pitch should be 5b in my opinion.

with Robbie Miller
cat22 12/Sep/09 2nd
with Mike
R0bbie 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Charlie wp Hill ??/2009 AltLd
Paz 08/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Like hell is this 4*s - it just shows how the Scottish star system has got so full of itself it's nearly useless. At best it's a 2* route on a 4* mountain, with 3 or 4 nice moves on some good rock. These plus points are almost justified by the enormous length, approach walk in and scramble and lengthy walk off and descent, but basically as a minimum you should probably enjoy these other aspects too if you want to get on it and have a 4* experience. I did the `serendipity' (?) 5a/b pitch and the 5b strip roof and it was raining in some form or other for most of the route.

with TS
sgl 26/May/08 AltLd
with duncan
decs 26/May/08 AltLd O/S

The first couple of pitches are not that great. Good climbing and great positions from then on. Easy for E1.

with Sam
Pete Graham 25/May/08 AltLd
with Rick Graham, Ted Rogers
WB 25/May/08 AltLd O/S

brilliant route easy climbing in a great position

with Guy
GuyM ?/May/08 AltLd
with will
smac ??/2008 -
Lone Rider 10/Jun/07 AltLd

Excellent climbing with interesting route finding. Did Serindipity Variations. Arete variations look worthwhile for another visit. Descended by scrambling down and across south face of NEB.

with R Webb and J Edwards
Dave Kerr 15/Jul/06 -
with Nigel Holmes
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
alkira ??/1996 -
brianrunner ??/1996 AltLd

a good route in great positions but somehow not in the same class as centurian and the bat

mike lawrence? ??/1995 -
Hidden ?/Jun/92 AltLd
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
uphillnow 30/May/84 AltLd
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
PLM, SJPowderham1, Euan Todd, LJC, Sally Lisle, callumwaddell, Paul Collins, ned_85, Hidden, Matt250, Hidden, Nath93, CaelanB, Ian Jones, Hidden, pugilistswine, Hugh Simons, prcleary, hutchay, Andrew Wilson, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Swampi, Martin Haworth, gurumed, arose, Martin Davies, Gudge, JonmapDL, Hidden, hobblingfool, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Col Kingshott, scotclimb, Hidden, gjd, oliverk, AWH, Hidden, redshapedfriday, Dinger, Hidden, Hidden, IanMcC, freudy_love, Hidden, Hidden, jfmchivall, Ropeboy, ieverett, gavin88, Inti, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, unbezonking, Hidden, Lawrie Brand, Hidden, Hidden, jonny taylor, HIGHTOWER, Hidden, Hidden, chris sm, James Humble, Urgles, Hidden, Neil Mackenzie, Hidden, Hidden, andymoin, French Erick, 220bpm, nicholas Barrowclough
High E2
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Votes cast 21
High 5c
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