240m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
215m. A fun and varied route which has a bit of everything - slabs, walls, cracks and corners all feature, plus a fairly puzzling little move on pitch 5.
Approach - Descend from the Brévent down the Charles Bozon Ski Piste (which is a jeep track in summer but holds snow well into July) to the brèche between the two Brévent Crags. Continue on the wide track down, under the east face of the Brévent and branch off it when level with the foot of the route.
1) 6a, 30m. The route begins at the toe of the buttress, which can either be climbed directly (5c) or on flakes and small crimps (6a) on the right-hand side. Both options meet after 15m and lead to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the slab and groove above before stepping right and following the arête in an excellent position to a belay beneath a chimney.
3) 4c, 15m. Go straight up the slab then move left into the deep chimney. Walk through this where it levels out and turn right to belay on a single bolt underneath a steep corner.
4) 5b, 15m. Climb the corner (easier than it looks) on excellent holds, to a single bolt belay which can be backed up with a sling on a spike. It is possible to walk off from here to avoid pitch 5.
5) 6a, 30m. Climb up and right across ledges to reach the foot of a steep, red wall with a corner on the left. Climb the corner and then make a steep traverse leftwards until beneath a wide crack. Climb the crack with difficulty and continue on the slab above. Follow the easy groove on the right to reach a sling belay on the ridge crest.
A 5m traverse (walk) on the west side of the ridge leads to a bolted belay and a 20m abseil. From the foot of this, scramble up and rightwards for 200m to reach the foot of the second gendarme.
6) 5b, 30m. Climb the slab and then make a brilliant technical traverse left to reach the arête. Follow this to a small stance.
7) 4c, 30m. Continue up the arête, before moving right and following a vague groove to a belay on top of the gendarme.
Walk west for 30m to reach the top of the couloir which splits the two gendarmes. Scramble down this to reach the foot of the final pitch. Another option is to walk to the top of the last gendarme then abseil in (35m).
8) 5b, 35m. Climb the final pitch, initially on flakes and then via steep but helpful cracks. A fantastic pitch to finish on.
Descent - Climb back up to the Brévent lift via the approach path. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A popular climb on 3 separate buttresses:
1st:5a (5c option), 5a, 5a, 5b, optional 6b pitch
2nd:5b, 5a

Hugh Irving 09/Sep AltLd O/S
with George
George Ponsonby 09/Sep AltLd O/S
Alpenglow 04/Sep AltLd O/S

First 2 buttresses. Did the 5c variation instead of the 6b on the 5th pitch.

with Alice B
Hidden 28/Aug 2nd O/S
Bryan M 27/Aug AltLd
with Pero
Pero 27/Aug AltLd
Finn Curry 25/Aug 2nd
with Paul Warnock
Jgresh 17/Aug AltLd

Mike- P2- 5a. Me- P1- 5c, P3- 4c, P4- 5b, P5- 6a

with Michael Macdonald
Hidden 04/Aug AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul AltLd O/S
BStar 29/Jul Lead O/S

Took a fall on the optional 'aid pitch' (6b), rested then got it free. The top couple of pitches are a bit contrived but worth including. Lovely route!

wjcdean 29/Jul AltLd

started off teamed up with trevs, lead P1 and P3, had a go at P5 (6b) and got too tired so adam went and had a go and got up it. had another go on second and got the moves free after falling off the crux once and starting from the middle ledge. trevs and rach bailed and me and adam did the last 3 pitches. i lead P7 and P8. great, long route but a bit contrived with the multiple gendarmes a the end.

Rob Pitt 29/Jul AltLd
with Nick Arding
Trevers 29/Jul AltLd

Some lovely climbing on this, but struggled (and aided) the bottom 6a pitch (seconding with a pack) and the 6b pitch (seconding with pack and dangling multiple ropes). I can't climb 6b on a good day! Missed out the final pitches which seem a bit contrived.

with Rachael, BStar, Will
Rachael88 29/Jul 2nd

Struggled on the 1st and 6A pitch. Walk down after the abseil for a nice ice cream.

with Adam
RosiePalmer 18/Jul 2nd β

Awesome multi pitch with fantastic views - even saw a Marmot!

Hidden 17/Jul AltLd O/S
annihuovinen 01/Jul AltLd O/S

Led up to the needle and the last pitch - very beautiful route!

kdo 01/Jul AltLd

A great little route to start off a great trip. I have done this route 3 times but never climbed to the top of the needle/monolith. For Anni's first alpine lead on a pitch she went straight up there for a photo session. WE did the 6b moves later and got to the abseil doing in good time. Late season snow made the boulder approach to the 4th Gendarme easy, Anni finished off the day with the final pitch

MichalDz ??/2016 AltLd O/S
walts4 ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Rob Royle 05/Sep/15 Lead

Bailed after 4 pitches as it started snowing......!

with Steph
Hidden 04/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Katie S ?/Sep/15 AltLd
Matt Schwarz ?/Sep/15 AltLd
with katie
Ulgrid 30/Aug/15 AltLd
with Dave
david_brookes 30/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
adrianj 27/Aug/15 AltLd

Lovely climb on a pinnacle, linked to 2 other pinnacles! Finish with a beer at the Brevant station then back down the cable car!

Robaduck 05/Aug/15 2nd
hairy51 ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Joe Andrews, Jonathan Axford
10029759 ?/Aug/15 AltLd
onlyfoddington 30/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Climbed in a three - ran into an opinionated climber who was not happy about this.

with Adam
Hidden 23/Jul/15 AltLd
abbeywall 21/Jul/15 AltLd

Led p1, think I combined 3 and 4 and then did the 5c/+avoiding pitch for the 6b, led p5 and p7. Very popular! Some great climbing on all pitches. A good fun route

with K
Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
ned_85 10/Jul/15 AltLd
benwh1te ?/Jul/15 -
alooker ?/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead G/U
peaterpan 21/Jun/15 AltLd

Did the 6b variant, which I found hard with a sack on. Sitting on top of the spire to belay was awesome.

with tedswag
Charlie Low 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb, well worth doing. Lead P2, P3 and P6. P3 was awesome, really fun climbing and great exposure. Abbed off after P6.

JoshT 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Stunning route, took the 6c variant.

davkeo 14/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Did P2 plus 6b pitch. Nice climbing on a wet day.

with Ken Doyle, Niall Hedderman
kdo 14/Jun/15 AltLd

Was accused of stealing a pitch or two on this climb. Conditions were a bit damp but the climb would be good in the wet anyway. Dave did the 6B pitch, I did it the year before in the wet, so Niall's turn next year in a snowstorm

niallsash 14/Jun/15 AltLd
with kdo
Remyveness 24/Apr/15 AltLd

Great climb, walked from Chamonix in 3 and a half hours as the lifts weren't running. Residual snow from the Planpraz meant crampons or snow shoes were needed for the latter half of the approach. Opted for the 4c start, and climbed with backpacks, walked off after P4.

with Joel Miller
Joel Miller 24/Apr/15 AltLd
Brucemacrosson ??/2015 AltLd

TD- 5c

with Bryan Rhinn
DigitalSteak 18/Oct/14 Lead O/S

With crux pitch (6a really)

s1362083 ?/Sep/14 2nd dog
Big Lee 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the odd number pitches. Really enjoyed the third pitch. Good climb, although rather feels like two separate routes.

annak 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd
Seb31 ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor 25/Jul/14 AltLd
jac00 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom
tomtom89 23/Jul/14 AltLd
with Jack
Pete_Frost 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Good fun, sound rock. 6b pitch has one hanger missing, but this doesn't affect the crux.

with Ash Fusiarski
Hidden 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 AltLd dnf
Dawn_K_B 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Loved the pinnacle pitch. Skipped the 6b+.

Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd
kdo 20/Jun/14 AltLd

good day out, easy access

nmcgreen 20/Jun/14 AltLd
with kdo
jcw ??/2014 -
Happy Haggis 03/Sep/13 -

Great route, especially the first five pitches. Good fun on the needle pitch!

Robbo1 03/Sep/13 -
justaddpowder 27/Aug/13 Lead

Great climb, rain called of the last top pitches. 5a too 5c 4P

with Caroline Milree
Ccmilree 27/Aug/13 -
Hidden 17/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
JimboWizbo 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3, half of P4 by accident, P5, P7 and P8. The last pitch is fantastic

with Beth
Hidden 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
rlrs 02/Aug/13 AltLd
with GSI
Rob Royle 21/Jul/13 2nd

The start on the first pitch was difficult, looked easy but it was tough! Great climb once I was past the first pitch.

with Mountain Guide, Steph
SteveM 16/Jul/13 AltLd
with Tobs
MichaelGallimore 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Did variation on pitch 4' 6a+ maybe. 6 b finish then abbed off. Did not complete the two upper gendarmes

with Bern hardman
thomaspomfrett 02/Jul/13 AltLd

First three pitches only before the rain hit. I lead p1, Will lead p2&3

with Will Groat
Claire Molloy ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Chris Molloy
fulton333 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Charlie Edwards, Claire Hoolohan
Hidden 25/Jun/13 -
Hidden 25/Jun/13 2nd
jcooper8 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd
Pete Houghton ?/Jun/13 AltLd
maria85 15/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led majority of pitches, all clean except for the 6b move which I fell off a few times before getting - super polished foot hold! More fun than I thought it would be.

with Jules
Ben Briggs 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Luca
jameslam 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Charlie Thorneycroft
Coops_13 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Brilliant needle pitch and 6b pitch

thetradlad 18/Jul/12 AltLd
with Keeno
Hidden 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Wils 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
jon_ridley 07/Jul/12 AltLd
Emily Cropton 07/Jul/12 AltLd
Dan818 ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Matthew Griffiths
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
danfitz 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead rpt
Mountain Llama 16/Sep/11 AltLd
with Paul S
EllieWoods 09/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Lucy
The Bad Cough 04/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
jon22 04/Aug/11 AltLd
tallthinmonkey 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Via the 6b pitch, only one move of 6b in a lovely position.

with Rob Leuhman
Julli 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Hanna Pihlajaluoto
Hidden 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Kris ??/2011 AltLd
NoelleG 14/Sep/10 2nd
with Andy Perkins (gd), Michael
John Pickles 19/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Morton
al99 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Standing on top of the pinnacle is great!

with Al Carley-Smith
Hidden 13/Aug/10 2nd
darren hudson 27/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

good climbing when the weather is bad higher up. close to top of cable car

with David Ford
vincentvega 26/Jul/10 AltLd

Great interesting route. Did the 5c pitch instead of the 6b, good moves stepping over the drop onto the side wall of the arete. Also did Le Cheval at the top of the needle!

with danny robb
BALD EAGLE 25/Jul/10 AltLd
with M.Power
Anthony Dixon 13/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jun/10 2nd O/S
liz j ?/Sep/09 Lead
with Matt Dickinson
Hidden 28/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
dpe 12/Aug/09 2nd

Only 6th and 7th pitches to top of Gendarme

with Smiler, Paul D
Henrik 05/Aug/09 AltLd dog

The 6b version, fell on top-rope on the 6b crux...

with Josef + Joakim
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
Shuttsie ?/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Rich Malcolm 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Brennan
HannyHancock 07/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

pitches 1 (4c) & 3 (4b/5a)

with Curly
Hidden 31/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/06 -
Hidden 27/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Dhonny_Jaws ?/Jul/06 2nd O/S
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High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 15
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set