Rockfax Description
A well-defined corner on the right-hand side of the wall provides the best of the sub-extreme routes at Brean Down. Start at a left-slanting flake-crack that leads up to the corner. Approach the mid-height break via the right-to-left-slanting flake-line. The steep corner above is sustained but has plenty of gear and a few plants. Stake belays and additional belays in the rock outcrops further up the slope. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Matthew Martin Wsm 19/Oct/14 Lead

Steep sustained and scary at the top, got it eventually, high in the grade technically, although plenty of gear

with ian marshall
Tom F Harding 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
sheelba 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

A bit harrowing. Took a pointless near the top as I'd had enough by that point, very sustained, hard for VS. Ran out of big gear, some sandy holds and a horrible dodgy top out. Just beat the tide and only just had enough rope (on 50's) to set up the belay. The ice cream shop was shut by the time we finished as well. But otherwise a great climb!

Urgles 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really ace climbing. excellent rock, sustained 4c but loads of protection possibilities, straightforward top out and there is a stake at the top. first onsight for a while so took a bit of time!

with Rick Sewards
Quarryboy 13/Jul/14 2nd β

Good to climb the whole thing at last on a nice sunny day.

with Rick Sewards, Mark Davies
Alex Whitmore ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Miriam Billig, David Clover
Hidden 18/May/14 2nd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
richardsavill 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with jez blake, Sarah Rowlands
Stanners 17/Mar/13 Lead O/S

very nice in glorious sunshine, but got scared towards the top not having enough chunky gear resulting in a huge run out!

with Deepstar, James Rich, Mark Davis
JamesRich 17/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Classic brean trad with a horrible top out to round it off nicely.

Andy Fielding 17/Feb/13 Lead
goddamm7 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Paul Robertson 11/Jan/13 2nd rpt
guy xavier percival 11/Jan/13 Lead RP

Classic. The top bit is a bit vegetated, but it all adds to the experience.

with paul
Hidden ??/2013 -
Quarryboy 21/Dec/12 Lead dnf

Was looking pretty damp from the ground but Mark wanted some photos of it pretty badly so decided to go up and see how far I could get. Got about a 3rd of the way up the corner before I realised that the angle had kicked back a lot more and the crack was getting increasingly wet. At that point seeing as Mark had taken a few photos I decided to down climb and leave it for another day.

BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very good route shame about the veg - would be 3* if clean. I got a thread and nut belay in the outcrops far back. Lovely rock, really solid. A good adventure if you don't mind an audience!

Dibdawg 30/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Will Twiggers
puppythedog 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Crap rock, crap top out not brilliant in my opinion. Plus I didn't trust the stake and although I belayed off it we decided not to Ab off it.

with KDW
Hidden 31/Mar/12 2nd
Dave Ing 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S

The corner was pretty sustained but loads of medium sized pro.

with Mike (Weston SM)
Mayaculpa 29/Mar/12 2nd
Skullfire 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Mat Mitchell
dan gibson 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with alley
Chris Sansum 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice topout onto sand!

with Gary Lewin
arandall 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
benkelsey 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S

pleasant for brean but not a good climb.

brew_guru 21/Jul/10 2nd O/S

tough vs,found it harder than cyclops slab!

with super gav
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
luke13 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dec
deklan 28/Mar/09 2nd
with luke
Alex Thompson 16/Mar/09 Lead β

Jon fluffed the 1st lead of the day. Rope pulled and I finished it off. Pointless epic to retreive gear and ab rope...

jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 Lead
with Alex Thompson
Hidden ??/2009 -
thrutch 13/Apr/08 Lead
with helen
thomasadixon 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Tough at VS, sustained good route. Good belays in the outcrops at the top, didn't see what the problem was with the top out, seemed fine to me.

with Charles
Chubbard 12/Jan/08 Lead O/S
chockstone ?/Jan/08 Lead O/S

first lead

with Dan Sidaway
s0458892 ?/Jun/07 -

Horrid top-out vertical sand with a boblly belay and dodgy nut for a belay, otherwise a good-ish climb

with Bird
Paz 26/Nov/06 2nd β
with SI
RedFox 26/Nov/06 Lead dog

Probably not as hard if you don't hang around halfway up the crack for too long

with Paz
Somerset swede basher 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Siddle
Hidden ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
upontop ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Trevor
7ames ??/2004 Lead
DerwentDiluted ?/Jun/02 Lead
with Chris Pearson
MikeC59 11/May/02 2nd
Hidden ?/Oct/99 Lead
mikej 19/Oct/97 Lead
with Nick Salmon
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
snowcat ?/Aug/93 2nd

First proper climbing

with Chris Schiller
Hidden ??/1993 AltLd
babymoac 10/Oct/87 Lead
Nevil ??/1985 -

Do not know year

beaumap 25/Jun/81 Lead
with Martin Davis
Chris Terrey 07/Jun/81 AltLd
with Dave Walker, Pete Hevezi
Nigel Bond 18/Jun/80 AltLd
with Ian
Hidden ?/Apr/78 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
lusonavigator, Rassapotimus, Hidden, Roget, alexporter, Hidden, nick hawkins, bendurance
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 18
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set