UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction applies to Central and Right-Hand Buttresses.

The Left-Hand Buttress is not restricted, but please only use the descent on the left side of the crag (looking in) and whilst approaching, move quickly and quietly until under the LH Buttress to avoid disturbing the birds.

Please report any observations of nesting ravens on the crag to access@thebmc.co.uk

Rockfax Description
A long expedition that takes a rising traverse of the face following the lower of two distinct crack-lines. Both leader and second need to be up to the task. Start at a sapling next to a short right-trending ramp.
1) 5a, 17m. From the top of the ramp, climb up for 3m until a line of holds lead right to a rib and then Granolithic Groove. Continue to a small ledge and niche on Solidarity and belay.
2) 5b, 29m. Continue along the break to below a flake-line on the wall above (taken by Marble Staircase). Move down and traverse right to a sloping ledge, from where the face above can be climbed to the next break. The wall above leads to the top - bold but furnished with reasonable holds. © Rockfax

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gillette Direct

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Neckband Crag)

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