Rockfax Description
Climb up just left of a rib to a tree and then go left and up to a two-bolt lower-off (5a to here and a bit vegetated). Move up and then right (ignore bolts going left) to a block at the overlap. Continue direct via superb sustained moves. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Swashbuckling in Brooklyn (up the blunt arete to the left of the raised earth platform and step right past the tree) follow the bolts to where the lines split. Climb the right hand line through a blocky roof (often with plants on it) to a shake out at an undercut. Hard moves then lead up the wall with a blind step right into slightly easier ground then the belay.
It now makes most sense to start up Swashbuckin' in Brooklyn and climb past it's first lower off to the bolt above, then step right to the first roof on LA Confidential and finish up this. This avoids the debolting and gives a great well protected route.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| albatty | 30 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: pulled the large block off at the top. some other rock felt loose up there but could have just been my mind playing tricks | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: pulled the large block off at the top. some other rock felt loose up there but could have just been my mind playing tricks |
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| Thin Boyz | 25 Mar, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you want a ticket to the pearly gates this is a pretty good place to start. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you want a ticket to the pearly gates this is a pretty good place to start. |
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| Ed morris | 30 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: The block will come down in the near future with a likely catastrophic outcome. Possibly the most terrifying block I've climbed past. Don't be the climber attached to it when it comes off. No idea how to remove it without risking it hitting traffic below? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The block will come down in the near future with a likely catastrophic outcome. Possibly the most terrifying block I've climbed past. Don't be the climber attached to it when it comes off. No idea how to remove it without risking it hitting traffic below? |
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| Ian Bell | 12 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lower off should maybe be lower, Rock is terrible for the last 2 bolts. Only just got down on 80m rope in one go | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lower off should maybe be lower, Rock is terrible for the last 2 bolts. Only just got down on 80m rope in one go |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well
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Melting Man
Grade: 7a ***
(Taff's Well)