adie84 - 17/Mar/15
Soft for the grade with decent enough protection. A good alpine day out.
Mark Grist - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Nick Allsop
We placed 2 poor screws in the entire route. Not much rock gear either. Very serious – VI 5 in today's conditions. Ice or reasonable neve was there, turfs well frozen, and the weather was gorgeous. The temperature has never been above freezing all day from carpark to carpark. I lead P1 (60m) and P3 (70m), Misha did P2 (60m).
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/15 with Misha
Misha - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/15 with Masa
Straightforward, 3x60m pitches, led 1&3. Gear where needed.
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Mark Mosgrove
First pitch rather cruddy, stepped out and lacking in protection
abbeywall - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with RD, RL
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15
Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/15
Went to climb Parallel B, were beaten to it! Lead pitches 1 and 3. Team in front moving very slowly so there was a fair bit of waiting around. Very soft for grade V, felt like a IV with basically no gear.
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15 with Caspian James
Soloed up to the ice cave then belayed. Sketchy start with little protection up to the ice cave. Not a V more a technical 4
drsdave - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/15 with Neil Mackie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/15
Just lead the easy pitches
AndyL - AltLd - 15/Feb/15 with Adam Russell
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15
Led just the easy middle pitch. Good rock belays on every pitch but not much gear in between.
annep11 - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Liam Ingram
Finally a successful route on Lochnagar. Led the difficult pitches. First pitch very bold and thin.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Anne Peale
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15
Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15
Good but rather soft as it was stepped out.
Craig Holden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Alex Toomey
alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with craig holden
peter.herd - AltLd - 11/Feb/15 with Steven A
Bit of a cruddy first pitch added to the excitement but a classic gully climb.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/15 with Pete
Slightly cruddy top layer on first pitch but good ice and neve after that, no cornice issues, up in no time.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 07/Feb/15 with Brian
saintlade - 2014
yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014
prcleary - 2014
Beautiful day. Zero degrees at car park at 6 am. We kept above freezing level all day except for 15 mins at bottom of first pitch when there was slight dripping. Whole route iced, but sections on un transformed snow needed care. The first step on straight up way above belay on P3 was unconsiolidated, but great mixed moves up left wall (5) got us back. onto the ice. Rest of P3 in great nick. Cornice pitch soft snow.
Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Simon Yearsley
Simon Yearsley - AltLd - 03/Mar/13 with Malcolm Bass
What no ice, retreated with tails between legs!!
Dave Douglas - Lead dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Paul Freudenthal
Bailed as there was zero ice. Very poor conditions.
telemarker - AltLd dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Dave Douglas, Paul Freudenthal
Ran away to fight another day
Kirill - AltLd dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Igor Gotlibovych
ig248 - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Kirill
Hidden - 2013
AC1 - 2013
Did P1 and abbed off, very thin with little gear after belay tat (did attempt to continue). Did moonshadow instead.
Ollie B - Lead dnf - 28/Jan/12 with J.Monypenny
very thin in places, needing a bold and delicate approach to not bash all the ice away! climbing not technically hard though so soft touch for the grade.
James S - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/12 with stu, sam
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11
Nowhere near grade V. Pitch one is IV 4, pitch three is III 3! Protection is fine. The runout section is II. Don't know why this is in 'Cold Climbs'.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11 with mark turnbull
Brilliant! Sooperb day on the hill! Good ice although not smashing for screws, lovely chewy stuff! Ideal.
Lamb - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/11 with Joel Paterson, Stephen
Stephen18 - AltLd - 01/Mar/11
Easier than V in todays condition - excellent climb, great ice.
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Gwilym, Simon Pearce
morsy - AltLd - 27/Feb/11 with gerhard mors
sparbus - AltLd - 06/Feb/11 with mike b
joeydurkin - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Mark P
mark88 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with Joey Durkin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11
rob1 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with drew
John Workman - Lead - 23/Jan/11 with Apprentice
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11
Hidden - AltLd - 2011
PAJames - 2011
Hidden - 2nd - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Fantastic conditions both on the route and overhead
IceBun - AltLd - 29/Mar/10 with Tim W
mark-abz - Lead - 21/Mar/10 with Alex
Hidden - 2010
Hidden - 2010
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Dec/09
Lovely neve and frozen turf, seemed quite soft touch today, if a little bold.
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09 with Scott Webster
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09
adw07 - AltLd dnf - 15/Feb/09 with Scott Becker
We used 50m ropes and ended up moving together to have enough rope to reach the next belay at some points - 60m ropes would be better.
Significant spindrift coming down the gully throughout most of the day - building to a very small powder avalanche at one point!
Guidebook describes the route as 'a soft touch for the grade in good conditions.' and I reckon I'd agree with this - challenging in the lean / thawing conditions dominating on Saturday though!
Leaner conditions than in 1995 guidebook photo!
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/08 with Duncan Tunstall
Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/08
wee hippy - Lead - 2008 with john jones
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07
s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with mark mosgrove
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/07 with Miguel Ciriza
Not hard, but quite bold in the conditions.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/06 with Rob Glossop
Dirk Wallis - 2nd - Feb/06 with Grrr
frost - AltLd - Jan/06 with N Griffiths
Hidden - AltLd - Jan/05
Very lean and precarious top pitch. Didn't finish up Polythemus - ended up a faint, incipient groove.
NeilGriffiths - 22/Feb/03 with Simon Frost
oor wullie - 2001
gergosantha - 30/Jan/00 with Neil Cuthbert
Weather poor with snow and a strong north wind, but the route is in good nick and not too hard for the grade. Good climbing.
An accident in Douglas Gibson gully one climber killed.
steveb2006 - AltLd - 22/Jan/00 with Tim Cairns
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/99
Hidden - AltLd - 1998
heavy snowed conditions with frequent small avalanches
Grezza - Lead - Feb/97 with Andy Kemp
Smith42 - Apr/96
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/95
FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/94 with Andy R
Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/87 with Kim Wainwright
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/87 with SimonGee
Slightly easier than Para B gully
Lone Rider - Solo - 02/Feb/85
Hidden - AltLd - 1985