Aberdeenshire > Lochnagar >
 
Polyphemus Gully*** V 5

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[Khrisna Nacua, Polyphemus Gully V, Lochnagar, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers.

Photo: Khrisna Nacua, Polyphemus Gully V, Lochnagar © Colin Wells
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 57 logbooks, and on 28 wishlists.

saintlade - 2014

Beautiful day. Zero degrees at car park at 6 am. We kept above freezing level all day except for 15 mins at bottom of first pitch when there was slight dripping. Whole route iced, but sections on un transformed snow needed care. The first step on straight up way above belay on P3 was unconsiolidated, but great mixed moves up left wall (5) got us back. onto the ice. Rest of P3 in great nick. Cornice pitch soft snow.
Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Simon Yearsley

What no ice, retreated with tails between legs!!
Dave Douglas - Lead dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Paul Freudenthal

Ran away to fight another day
Kirill - AltLd dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

Loose snow
ig248 - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Kirill

Hidden - 2013

AC1 - 2013

Did P1 and abbed off, very thin with little gear after belay tat (did attempt to continue). Did moonshadow instead.
Ollie B - Lead dnf - 28/Jan/12 with J.Monypenny

very thin in places, needing a bold and delicate approach to not bash all the ice away! climbing not technically hard though so soft touch for the grade.
James S - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/12 with stu, sam

Hidden - 2012

Scottish winter climbing as it should be, blue skies/warm sun but with good neve/ice and even an easy exit already carved through the cornice.
Chris wilson - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Jon B

Nowhere near grade V. Pitch one is IV 4, pitch three is III 3! Protection is fine. The runout section is II. Don't know why this is in 'Cold Climbs'.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11 with mark turnbull

Brilliant! Sooperb day on the hill! Good ice although not smashing for screws, lovely chewy stuff! Ideal.
Lamb - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/11 with Joel Paterson, Stephen

Stephen18 - AltLd - 01/Mar/11

Easier than V in todays condition - excellent climb, great ice.
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Gwilym, Simon Pearce

brilliant
morsy - AltLd - 27/Feb/11 with gerhard mors

sparbus - AltLd - 06/Feb/11 with mike b

joeydurkin - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Mark P

mark88 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with Joey Durkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11

rob1 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with drew

John Workman - Lead - 23/Jan/11 with Apprentice

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Fantastic conditions both on the route and overhead
IceBun - AltLd - 29/Mar/10 with Tim W

Good conditions
mark-abz - Lead - 21/Mar/10 with Alex

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Dec/09

Lovely neve and frozen turf, seemed quite soft touch today, if a little bold.
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09 with Scott Webster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09

adw07 - AltLd dnf - 15/Feb/09 with Scott Becker

We used 50m ropes and ended up moving together to have enough rope to reach the next belay at some points - 60m ropes would be better. Significant spindrift coming down the gully throughout most of the day - building to a very small powder avalanche at one point! Guidebook describes the route as 'a soft touch for the grade in good conditions.' and I reckon I'd agree with this - challenging in the lean / thawing conditions dominating on Saturday though! Leaner conditions than in 1995 guidebook photo!
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/08 with Duncan Tunstall

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/08

wee hippy - Lead - 2008 with john jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with mark mosgrove

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/07 with Miguel Ciriza

Not hard, but quite bold in the conditions.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/06 with Rob Glossop

Dirk Wallis - 2nd - Feb/06 with Grrr

frost - AltLd - Jan/06 with N Griffiths

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/05

Very lean and precarious top pitch. Didn't finish up Polythemus - ended up a faint, incipient groove.
NeilGriffiths - 22/Feb/03 with Simon Frost

oor wullie - 2001

gergosantha - 30/Jan/00 with Neil Cuthbert

Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/99 with Neil Mckenzie

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

heavy snowed conditions with frequent small avalanches
Grezza - Lead - Feb/97 with Andy Kemp

Hidden - Apr/96

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/95

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/94 with Andy R

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/87 with Kim Wainwright

Slightly easier than Para B gully
Lone Rider - Solo - 02/Feb/85

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
oliverk, forcan, Hoyes, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, kenneM, Hidden, MrRiley, JonmapDL, peter.herd, Hidden, Gibson, Dustin, Ian Jones, Hidden, michael83, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden, Skinny Kin, Neilm18, Rob84, Hidden, Sandy Simpson, Alec, dunx55, French Erick

Voting
Total votes cast 52
hard VI0 of 18
VI0 of 18
easy VI0 of 18
hard V0 of 18
V4 of 18
easy V12 of 18
hard IV2 of 18
IV0 of 18
easy IV0 of 18
hard 60 of 18
60 of 18
easy 60 of 18
hard 50 of 18
56 of 18
easy 510 of 18
hard 42 of 18
40 of 18
easy 40 of 18
3 Stars12 of 16
2 Stars4 of 16
1 Star0 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 57 (1.8%)
Lead9 of 57 (15.8%)
Followed2 of 57 (3.5%)
Alt Leads33 of 57 (57.9%)
Unknown12 of 57 (21.1%)

'Climbed'32 of 57 (56.1%)
clean O/S20 of 57 (35.1%)
dnf5 of 57 (8.8%)