Polyphemus Gully*** V 5
[Somewhat cruddy ice on the first pitch, Polyphemus Gully, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: Somewhat cruddy ice on the first pitch, Polyphemus Gully © Steven Andrews
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 33 wishlists.

adie84 - 17/Mar/15

Soft for the grade with decent enough protection. A good alpine day out.
The Grist - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Nick Allsop

We placed 2 poor screws in the entire route. Not much rock gear either. Very serious VI 5 in today's conditions. Ice or reasonable neve was there, turfs well frozen, and the weather was gorgeous. The temperature has never been above freezing all day from carpark to carpark. I lead P1 (60m) and P3 (70m), Misha did P2 (60m).
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/15 with Misha

Misha - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/15 with Masa

Straightforward, 3x60m pitches, led 1&3. Gear where needed.
michael83 - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15 with Mark Mosgrove

First pitch rather cruddy, stepped out and lacking in protection
abbeywall - AltLd - 21/Feb/15 with RD, RL

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/15

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Feb/15

Went to climb Parallel B, were beaten to it! Lead pitches 1 and 3. Team in front moving very slowly so there was a fair bit of waiting around. Very soft for grade V, felt like a IV with basically no gear.
alexm198 - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/15 with Caspian James

Soloed up to the ice cave then belayed. Sketchy start with little protection up to the ice cave. Not a V more a technical 4
drsdave - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/15 with Neil Mackie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/15

Just lead the easy pitches
AndyL - AltLd - 15/Feb/15 with Adam Russell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15

Led just the easy middle pitch. Good rock belays on every pitch but not much gear in between.
annep11 - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Liam Ingram

Finally a successful route on Lochnagar. Led the difficult pitches. First pitch very bold and thin.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Anne Peale

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15

Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15

Good but rather soft as it was stepped out.
Craig Holden - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with Alex Toomey

stepped out
alex toomey - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/15 with craig holden

peter.herd - AltLd - 11/Feb/15 with Steven A

Bit of a cruddy first pitch added to the excitement but a classic gully climb.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/15 with Pete

Slightly cruddy top layer on first pitch but good ice and neve after that, no cornice issues, up in no time.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 07/Feb/15 with Brian

saintlade - 2014

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

prcleary - 2014

Beautiful day. Zero degrees at car park at 6 am. We kept above freezing level all day except for 15 mins at bottom of first pitch when there was slight dripping. Whole route iced, but sections on un transformed snow needed care. The first step on straight up way above belay on P3 was unconsiolidated, but great mixed moves up left wall (5) got us back. onto the ice. Rest of P3 in great nick. Cornice pitch soft snow.
Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Simon Yearsley

Simon Yearsley - AltLd - 03/Mar/13 with Malcolm Bass

What no ice, retreated with tails between legs!!
Dave Douglas - Lead dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Paul Freudenthal

Bailed as there was zero ice. Very poor conditions.
telemarker - AltLd dnf - 24/Feb/13 with Dave Douglas, Paul Freudenthal

Ran away to fight another day
Kirill - AltLd dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Igor Gotlibovych

Loose snow
ig248 - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Kirill

Hidden - 2013

AC1 - 2013

Did P1 and abbed off, very thin with little gear after belay tat (did attempt to continue). Did moonshadow instead.
Ollie B - Lead dnf - 28/Jan/12 with J.Monypenny

very thin in places, needing a bold and delicate approach to not bash all the ice away! climbing not technically hard though so soft touch for the grade.
James S - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/12 with stu, sam

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11

Nowhere near grade V. Pitch one is IV 4, pitch three is III 3! Protection is fine. The runout section is II. Don't know why this is in 'Cold Climbs'.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/11 with mark turnbull

Brilliant! Sooperb day on the hill! Good ice although not smashing for screws, lovely chewy stuff! Ideal.
Lamb - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/11 with Joel Paterson, Stephen

Stephen18 - AltLd - 01/Mar/11

Easier than V in todays condition - excellent climb, great ice.
Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Gwilym, Simon Pearce

Great route
morsy - AltLd - 27/Feb/11 with gerhard mors

sparbus - AltLd - 06/Feb/11 with mike b

joeydurkin - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Mark P

mark88 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with Joey Durkin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11

rob1 - AltLd - 29/Jan/11 with drew

John Workman - Lead - 23/Jan/11 with Apprentice

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Fantastic conditions both on the route and overhead
IceBun - AltLd - 29/Mar/10 with Tim W

Good conditions
mark-abz - Lead - 21/Mar/10 with Alex

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - Dec/09

Lovely neve and frozen turf, seemed quite soft touch today, if a little bold.
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09 with Scott Webster

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09

adw07 - AltLd dnf - 15/Feb/09 with Scott Becker

We used 50m ropes and ended up moving together to have enough rope to reach the next belay at some points - 60m ropes would be better. Significant spindrift coming down the gully throughout most of the day - building to a very small powder avalanche at one point! Guidebook describes the route as 'a soft touch for the grade in good conditions.' and I reckon I'd agree with this - challenging in the lean / thawing conditions dominating on Saturday though! Leaner conditions than in 1995 guidebook photo!
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/08 with Duncan Tunstall

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/08

wee hippy - Lead - 2008 with john jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/07 with mark mosgrove

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/07 with Miguel Ciriza

Not hard, but quite bold in the conditions.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/06 with Rob Glossop

Dirk Wallis - 2nd - Feb/06 with Grrr

frost - AltLd - Jan/06 with N Griffiths

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/05

Very lean and precarious top pitch. Didn't finish up Polythemus - ended up a faint, incipient groove.
NeilGriffiths - 22/Feb/03 with Simon Frost

oor wullie - 2001

gergosantha - 30/Jan/00 with Neil Cuthbert

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jan/00

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/99

Hidden - AltLd - 1998

heavy snowed conditions with frequent small avalanches
Grezza - Lead - Feb/97 with Andy Kemp

Smith42 - Apr/96

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Feb/95

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/94 with Andy R

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/87 with Kim Wainwright

Slightly easier than Para B gully
Lone Rider - Solo - 02/Feb/85

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
oliverk, forcan, Hoyes, iksander, kenneM, MrRiley, JonmapDL, peter.herd, Gibson, Dustin, Ian Jones, michael83, Dr Caterpillar, Skinny Kin, Neilm18, Rob84, Sandy Simpson, Alec, dunx55, French Erick

Voting
Total votes cast 66
hard VI0 of 23
VI0 of 23
easy VI0 of 23
hard V0 of 23
V4 of 23
easy V14 of 23
hard IV3 of 23
IV2 of 23
easy IV0 of 23
hard 60 of 23
60 of 23
easy 60 of 23
hard 50 of 23
56 of 23
easy 512 of 23
hard 45 of 23
40 of 23
easy 40 of 23
3 Stars14 of 20
2 Stars5 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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