Black Spout Buttress*** III 5
[A fine way to the top of Lochnagar, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, 3 star Scottish winter.

Photo: A fine way to the top of Lochnagar © Chris wilson
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 46 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dnf - 08/Mar/15

mrbird - AltLd - 29/Dec/14 with G. Wy

punj - AltLd - 29/Dec/14

annak - 2nd dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Lee Harrison

Started too late. Route proved harder work than expected in current conditions. Gear hard to find. Bailed into Black Spout one pitch from the top.
Big Lee - Lead dnf - 01/Mar/14 with Anna Kennedy

alasdair19 - 2013

AC1 - 2013

First two pitches, plenty of frozen turf, snow a bit soft in places. Abbed off into Black Spout Gully to Finish
thedatastream - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/12 with Haydn, Alex Thompson

Up to the ridge then abbed down into the gully to finish off in time before sunset.
Alex Thompson - AltLd dnf - 10/Feb/12 with JP, Haydn Martin

Fantastic weather, lean conditions, long day!
david0811 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Will, Dave Riley

A superb and very long day out. Powder snow made the first two pitches slow going but the cracks were dry so protection was plentiful. The top half was lean and the technical crux dry. The awkward traverse around the 10m wall was definitely the psychological crux!
MrRiley - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with Dave Marshall, Will Owen

lower half wet vegetated and nasty, better on the upper section
nicjbuk - AltLd - 01/Sep/11 with ross nicol esq

Joe Nunn - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/11 with pete

Dave Almond - AltLd - 15/Dec/10 with DUNCAN TUNSTALL

Hidden - 10/Feb/10

Traversed in from Black Spout as heavy powder and un-frozen turf on lower section.
ollythomas - Lead - 29/Nov/09 with Alex Brown

gforce - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with Dirk

Dirk Wallis - AltLd - 01/Feb/09 with Grrr

Chris L Hill - AltLd O/S - Feb/09 with Simon Pearce

Lead second pitch - but it got hard after that so Stu was sent up as the crevasse poodle
Smeggles - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with Stu

s kennedy - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/09 with meg

Turf not well frozen on the first couple of pitches but improved with height. A good introduction to winter climbing for Pete & Martin
John Roe - Lead - 24/Jan/09 with Pete Smith, Martin Chick

k2scott - 2009

windy100 - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Mar/08

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 19/Jan/08

smac - 2008

we went left in to a gully at the second steep wall as everything was melting in the sun, conditioins got much better.
CurlyStevo - AltLd dnf - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Traversed in to top rocky section as turf unfrozen lower down. 10m wall taken direct as per summer route; a little harder?
Jamie B - Lead - Dec/06 with Scott Mackie

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Rob Glossop

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/04

oor wullie - 2004

Dangerous Dave - Lead O/S - 2004

niall_mac - AltLd - Feb/03 with am_bodach

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jan/03

Small going off all day
Yourlead - AltLd - 22/Mar/02 with Graham Penny

Hidden - 2002

Hidden - Lead - 20/Feb/98

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Dec/97

Richard Weller - AltLd - 09/Feb/97 with Alec Keith

Richard Weller - Lead - 24/Mar/96 with Geir Halvorsen

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 27/Jan/96 with Pete Benson

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Mar/94 with Andy R

Stuart S - AltLd O/S - Nov/92 with Nigel Eastmond

It took a few hours to climb this finishing in the moonlight. It only took a few minutes to desend Black Spout Gully.
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/87 with SimonGee

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Zippy1999, iksander, Martin85, Batt, rustyclimber91, andymoin

Total votes cast 18
hard IV0 of 6
IV0 of 6
easy IV1 of 6
hard III5 of 6
III0 of 6
easy III0 of 6
hard II/III0 of 6
II/III0 of 6
easy II/III0 of 6
hard 60 of 6
60 of 6
easy 60 of 6
hard 51 of 6
55 of 6
easy 50 of 6
hard 40 of 6
40 of 6
easy 40 of 6
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars2 of 6
1 Star4 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S