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Heady Days*** 6b+

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[Heady Days in the wilderness at Ban-Y-Gor, 4 kb]A Byg classic. Start at a pillar below the most left-hand of the Head Sector roofs. Climb carefully to the first bolt then, keeping to the right of a loose flake, continue up solid rock to the half-height ledge. Climb steeply into a roof-capped corner, pull round into an uncomfortable niche then power through on jugs to an abseil station.
R.Thomas G.Gibson

Photo: Heady Days in the wilderness at Ban-Y-Gor © drysori
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 134 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/14

cool climb! easy for 6b+ but suprisingly steep!
hankyc - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14

Awkward
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Tomar

afrosam - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - Lead β - 22/Jun/14 with Sam Robinson

sus - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 15/Jun/14

Didn't enjoy this as much as last time, very awkward.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/14

Carl Watkins - Lead β - 13/Jun/14 with Bill G

Tim W - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Ali Kennedy

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

Felt well hard.
thedoctorisin - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Tomar, anthony, chris scutt

anthony henry - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris

Awesome climb for the grade. Also stopped half way up to get some amazing pics of Ollie on Almost me.
chrisscutt - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with ant

Great route. Putting in draws. RP attempt stopped by rain. Need to head back soon!
mikedevcole - Lead dog - 27/May/14

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 26/May/14 with Helen

tried on TR 3+ years ago with no success. Flashed today with ease. Brilliant route.
hms - Lead β - 26/May/14 with Garry

Kirill led it first so not an onsight.
cem - Lead β - 26/May/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Quite good, I liked it.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Charles Moreton

One of the best 6b+'s. Would have made an even better trad route though!
TommityP - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

One rest 2 clips from the top. Will get it clean next time.
James_L88 - Lead dog - 03/May/14 with Karl Gregory

UnkArl - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with James Long

Bloody awkward negotiating the roofs.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Jonathan

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Kate, Harry

skippington - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Mark

Billg - Lead - 22/Aug/13 with Bob Brewer

Quality, awesome position
BenNorman - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13

3 Names - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/13

Probably the best 6b+ I've done. Shame about the ledge, but the top half is awesome - it just looks so improbable!
Nick Russell - Lead β - 03/Jul/13 with Will Attridge

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/13

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Si Brice

prety sure i have done this before but not logged it, awsome positions and good value for 6b+
brices - Lead RP - 25/Jun/13 with Luke Hodson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

GrantB - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Alpha Red

Billg - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Andy Wiseman

Superb, really inviting line, that roofed corner just calls out to be climbed, and felt more technical than thuggy to me.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Cailean Harker

bonelessivar - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13 with Ric

Airy...
gripped01 - Lead - 19/May/13 with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with frank ramsay

Hidden - Lead RP - 2013

After a little time away another spanking at Ban y gor!!
Clarky10 - Lead dog - 11/Nov/12 with Sam Stokes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Nice mix of technical and thuggy moves.
The Ivanator - TR - 08/Sep/12 with Katherine, Sean

Enjoyed the first bit: good technical climbing. Rested at the roof though: too thuggy for me and had to resort to tiny crimps where the others hand jammed. Must feed hands more pies.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with sean, ivan bicknell

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Sep/12

J1_TOV - Lead β - 26/Jul/12

Very hard - excellent climbing.
Dizz - TR dog - 09/Jun/12 with David B

Great fun
AJM - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Simon Hann

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/May/12

got to the final bolt cleanly at which point i was totally pumped and had to rest!gutted as i was only 2 foot of easy climbing from the lower off!never mind was still a great route!
jon_gill1 - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12 with john beardmore

Fantastic.
JWB - TR β - 25/Mar/12 with Jon Gill

JamesBrowning - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12 with Toby

Dean177 - Lead - 23/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Tom Harrison

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Jack Blackmore

dont listen to Quarryboy, its a lovely route with amazing views! He obviously doesnt like manly climbs...
jack1996 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with si

rjshade - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Alastair Hamilton

bluesharper - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11 with Caradog

Listen to jack1996 because speaking from his extensive climbing experience that he has accumulated from nearly 100 routes at a range of grades under E1, most of which being grotty quarry classics. He is convinced this is "a lovely route with amazing views!" too bad I didn't find that fat off rest he must have got among that series of roofs otherwise I may have been able to stop and take in that amazing scenery of some dense woodland that he got. It’s basically Exactly as Mark described it "a bit of a thugs route” Just big moves on good holds in steep ground. Didn't feel like particularly imaginative climbing if I'm honest you might as well go to a climbing wall instead if you want to find a route with this level of complexity.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Maya Holding, Mark Davies

I don't like these climbs which have mid height ledges.
James Marshall - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with dan

con321 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

awesome route, even took in sum scenery hangin around thru the ovahangs
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with connor

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Patrick Goodwin

matthewjames - Lead β - 08/Jun/11 with Nick Jones, Sarah Jane Barr, Chris Davis

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/11

tommytuffa - Lead β - 14/May/11 with Felix

over rated
felixthelion - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with T. Brookes

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 08/May/11 with Ben Matthews

Ed Coombes - 2nd dog - 08/May/11 with crazyfool

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - Lead β - 30/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Jay Kay

Graham Atkins - Lead β - 24/Apr/11

danJBA - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Joe Fraser

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - TR dog - 16/Oct/10 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/10

tombeasley - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

found the moves above the roof very tough
hms - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dog - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

Christian Reynish - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/10 with stu

gb05 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Gavin Cytlau

btc - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Hamish

2nd go after a lack of commitment first time round
cornishben - Lead RP - 10/Jun/10 with Gareth Pratt

Surprisingly good.
DorsetGareth - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/10 with Ben Sutton

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/May/10

Great Route, really hard climbing past the last couple of BR's. Must go back for the full tick
tcfield - Lead dog - 02/May/10

Greg Pittam - Lead β - 06/Mar/10 with Raff

disposition62 - 2010

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 2010

IceMonkey1982 - Lead - 09/Aug/09

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 13/Jul/09 with Gareth

Great route, tarnished by the slimey rock (but it had been raining!)
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Paul Robertson

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Jun/09

super intimidating but yarding over on huge jugs is pretty cool. Some hold spotting issues pulling up to the lower off which made it a bit more pumpy than it needed to be.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/09

shyster boulder - Lead β - 22/Apr/09 with alex harper

3 Names - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dan H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Wow!
Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Andrew Bitmead

Felt loads easier today! Still a cracking route and definately worth its classic status!!!
SamStokes - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/08 with Alex Harper

kester - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08

An absolute awsome pitch. 6b climbing in 7a teratory. best sports route i've done.
Dale - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with johny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Bloody hard. Would've made a savage E2 on natural pro.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Simon Denison

Got this clean 1st time today but have taken a fall on this previously!
SamStokes - Lead RP - 08/Sep/07 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/07

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/07 with Peter Shepherd

Clarky10 - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/07 with Mike Broady

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Jul/07

Gob smacking. All got a bit much over the roof but expect to do better next time :)
cwarnerx - Lead dog - 10/Jun/07 with Clive Bunney

shoulders - Lead - 29/May/07 with andy sharp

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 20/May/07 with Chris Warner

ran out of steam right at the chains & took some nice air time!
Dan Jenkin - Lead dog - 2007 with Andy Talent, Gordon Jenkin

Circus - Lead β - 10/Nov/06 with Alex Harper

simon kimber - Lead RP - 2002 with Gavin Cytlau

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/97 with jon

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/95 with Dee Herbert

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mikedevcole, Hidden, chris85, Sam Watson, hankyc, JackMac, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, marcduhig, desperate_crack, dan23584, Dax, cha1n, Hidden, Hidden, saz_b, poey50, bluerockman, tweedcore

Voting
Total votes cast 99
hard 6c0 of 50
6c0 of 50
easy 6c0 of 50
hard 6b+7 of 50
6b+36 of 50
easy 6b+3 of 50
hard 6b4 of 50
6b0 of 50
easy 6b0 of 50
3 Stars33 of 49
2 Stars11 of 49
1 Star4 of 49
0 Stars0 of 49
Bag of .....1 of 49
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Style of ascent

Lead115 of 134 (85.8%)
Followed9 of 134 (6.7%)
Toproped6 of 134 (4.5%)
Unknown4 of 134 (3.0%)

'Climbed'14 of 134 (10.4%)
clean O/S52 of 134 (38.8%)
clean β16 of 134 (11.9%)
clean rpt17 of 134 (12.7%)
clean RP9 of 134 (6.7%)
dogged23 of 134 (17.2%)
dnf3 of 134 (2.2%)