Heady Days*** 6b+
[Heady Days in the wilderness at Ban-Y-Gor, 4 kb]A Byg classic. Start at a pillar below the most left-hand of the Head Sector roofs. Climb carefully to the first bolt then, keeping to the right of a loose flake, continue up solid rock to the half-height ledge. Climb steeply into a roof-capped corner, pull round into an uncomfortable niche then power through on jugs to an abseil station.
R.Thomas G.Gibson

Photo: Heady Days in the wilderness at Ban-Y-Gor © drysori
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This climb is in 165 logbooks, and on 21 wishlists.

Had a go about a year and half ago. 1st go today, great route.
mikedevcole - Lead RP - 12/Sep/15

rachelvlc - Lead - 12/Sep/15 with Gloria Lin

lewiz - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/15 with Yan Mao

Fun juggy finish through the roof.
Edward Kwong - Lead β - 12/Sep/15

Sarah Black - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/15 with Paul Black

Hidden - Lead - 02/Aug/15

I have replaced the hanger that was missing, to do this I removed a low down hanger from the route two to the right. That route has another bolt 3ft above it and is easy to clip. If I go back I will put a hanger back on it, but at least Heady Days is fully climbable. Good route
Milkman - 02/Aug/15

Still do-able if you take a nut to thread over the missing bolt
afrosam - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/15 with Trisha Murphy

top notch!
TomJ - Lead β - 25/Jul/15 with Kuang

chakrit - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15

Gutted bolt hanger missing so could not finish and this was the main climb i came to do, left a mallion in place for people to repeat hopefully some nice person will reequip this by the time i next visit
jjsk8a - Lead dnf - 11/Jul/15

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15 with jacquie robinson

Bolt hangers missing just before the big overhang. Tied them off badly. Fantastic route.
Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/15 with Ash

Hidden - TR dog - 30/May/15

Robnort - 2nd RP - 30/May/15

The third bolt above the ledge is missing a hangar, making the steep moves around the roof pretty spicy.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 25/May/15 with Steve Shenton

SJS - Lead dnf - 25/May/15 with Claire

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/May/15

steve_gibbs - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/15 with Ben Darby

Gutted. I got all the way to the chains and to the left of them on sloping holds. If the drews were in I could have clipped them. However, I will take the fact that I never cheated and grab the rings. Instead I held the rope and took my first sports fall outside. Nothing to it.. class route. Will get it next time for sure. 3***s
luke glaister - Lead dog - 07/Mar/15 with RobinJones, Jimmysmith1577

RobinJones - TR dnf - 07/Mar/15 with Luke Glaister, Jimmy Smith

Sam Watson - Lead - 2015 with James Cowley

Rockmonkey1977 - Lead dog - 06/Sep/14

jammy4536 - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/14

Trad climbing on bolts!
Dan Savory - Lead β - 31/Aug/14 with Paul Edwards

i.fish2000 - Lead RP - 29/Aug/14 with Ollie Burrows

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/14

Ollie B - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with A.Rosier

EmilyElouise - 2nd β - 24/Aug/14 with Tom

Top route, went wrong way on crux. Great!
Ian Bell - Lead dog - 16/Aug/14

One of my more memorable 'bolted rock climbs'. Exciting and good fun. Rather pumped clipping the belay but pleasantly surprised that my fitness can't be too shocking at the mo! First half is a nice warm up to the significantly more tricky second half. 3 stars seems fair.
Stanners - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/14 with Alkis, Andy G, Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jul/14

cool climb! easy for 6b+ but suprisingly steep!
hankyc - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14

Chubbard - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Tomar

afrosam - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Trisha Murphy

Trisha Murphy - Lead β - 22/Jun/14 with Sam Robinson

sus - Lead dnf - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 15/Jun/14

Didn't enjoy this as much as last time, very awkward.
Nick Russell - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/14

Carl Watkins - Lead β - 13/Jun/14 with Bill G

Tim W - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Ali Kennedy

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14

Felt well hard.
ollie_e - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Tomar, anthony, chris scutt

anthony henry - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with Chris

Awesome climb for the grade. Also stopped half way up to get some amazing pics of Ollie on Almost me.
chrisscutt - Lead O/S - 31/May/14 with ant

Great route. Putting in draws. RP attempt stopped by rain. Need to head back soon!
mikedevcole - Lead dog - 27/May/14

Garrouli - Lead rpt - 26/May/14 with Helen

Hidden - Lead β - 26/May/14

Kirill led it first so not an onsight.
cem - Lead β - 26/May/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Quite good, I liked it.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Charles Moreton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/May/14

One rest 2 clips from the top. Will get it clean next time.
James_L88 - Lead dog - 03/May/14 with Karl Gregory

UnkArl - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with James Long

Bloody awkward negotiating the roofs.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Jonathan

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Kate, Harry

skippington - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Mark

Billg - Lead - 22/Aug/13 with Bob Brewer

Quality, awesome position
BenNorman - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13

3 Names - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/13

Probably the best 6b+ I've done. Shame about the ledge, but the top half is awesome - it just looks so improbable!
Nick Russell - Lead β - 03/Jul/13 with Will Attridge

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/13

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Si Brice

prety sure i have done this before but not logged it, awsome positions and good value for 6b+
brices - Lead RP - 25/Jun/13 with Luke Hodson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

GrantB - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Alpha Red

Billg - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Andy Wiseman

Superb, really inviting line, that roofed corner just calls out to be climbed, and felt more technical than thuggy to me.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Cailean Harker

bonelessivar - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13 with Ric

gripped01 - Lead - 19/May/13 with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with frank ramsay

Hidden - Lead RP - 2013

After a little time away another spanking at Ban y gor!!
Clarky10 - Lead dog - 11/Nov/12 with Sam Stokes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Nice mix of technical and thuggy moves.
The Ivanator - TR - 08/Sep/12 with Katherine, Sean

Enjoyed the first bit: good technical climbing. Rested at the roof though: too thuggy for me and had to resort to tiny crimps where the others hand jammed. Must feed hands more pies.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with sean, ivan bicknell

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Sep/12

J1_TOV - Lead β - 26/Jul/12

Very hard - excellent climbing.
Dizz - TR dog - 09/Jun/12 with David B

Great fun
AJM - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Simon Hann

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/May/12

got to the final bolt cleanly at which point i was totally pumped and had to rest!gutted as i was only 2 foot of easy climbing from the lower off!never mind was still a great route!
jon_gill1 - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12 with john beardmore

JWB - TR β - 25/Mar/12 with Jon Gill

JamesBrowning - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12 with Toby

Dean177 - Lead - 23/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Tom Harrison

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Jack Blackmore

dont listen to Quarryboy, its a lovely route with amazing views! He obviously doesnt like manly climbs...
jack1996 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with si

rjshade - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Alastair Hamilton

bluesharper - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11 with Caradog

Listen to jack1996 because speaking from his extensive climbing experience that he has accumulated from nearly 100 routes at a range of grades under E1, most of which being grotty quarry classics. He is convinced this is "a lovely route with amazing views!" too bad I didn't find that fat off rest he must have got among that series of roofs otherwise I may have been able to stop and take in that amazing scenery of some dense woodland that he got. It’s basically Exactly as Mark described it "a bit of a thugs route” Just big moves on good holds in steep ground. Didn't feel like particularly imaginative climbing if I'm honest you might as well go to a climbing wall instead if you want to find a route with this level of complexity.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Maya Holding, Mark Davies

I don't like these climbs which have mid height ledges.
James Marshall - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with dan

con321 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

awesome route, even took in sum scenery hangin around thru the ovahangs
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with connor

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Patrick Goodwin

matthewjames - Lead β - 08/Jun/11 with Nick Jones, Sarah Jane Barr, Chris Davis

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/11

tommytuffa - Lead β - 14/May/11 with Felix

over rated
felixthelion - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with T. Brookes

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 08/May/11 with Ben Matthews

Ed Coombes - 2nd dog - 08/May/11 with crazyfool

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - Lead β - 30/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Jay Kay

Graham Atkins - Lead β - 24/Apr/11

danJBA - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Joe Fraser

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - TR dog - 16/Oct/10 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/10

tombeasley - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/10

onsight? went a bit off route onto the pre-crux of the 7a for a bit - realised my mistake, downclimbed to the ledge and finished easily...brilliant route, definite ***. 6b maybe?
cjsheps - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

jas128 - TR dog - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

Christian Reynish - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/10 with stu

gb05 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Gavin Cytlau

btc - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Hamish

2nd go after a lack of commitment first time round
cornishben - Lead RP - 10/Jun/10 with Gareth Pratt

Surprisingly good.
DorsetGareth - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/10 with Ben Sutton

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/May/10

Great Route, really hard climbing past the last couple of BR's. Must go back for the full tick
tcfield - Lead dog - 02/May/10

Greg Pittam - Lead β - 06/Mar/10 with Raff

disposition62 - 2010

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 2010

IceMonkey1982 - Lead - 09/Aug/09

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 13/Jul/09 with Gareth

Great route, tarnished by the slimey rock (but it had been raining!)
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Paul Robertson

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/09

shyster boulder - Lead β - 22/Apr/09 with alex harper

3 Names - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dan H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Andrew Bitmead

Felt loads easier today! Still a cracking route and definately worth its classic status!!!
SamStokes - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/08 with Alex Harper

kester - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08

An absolute awsome pitch. 6b climbing in 7a teratory. best sports route i've done.
Dale - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with johny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Bloody hard. Would've made a savage E2 on natural pro.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Simon Denison

Got this clean 1st time today but have taken a fall on this previously!
SamStokes - Lead RP - 08/Sep/07 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/07

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/07 with Peter Shepherd

Clarky10 - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/07 with Mike Broady

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Jul/07

Gob smacking. All got a bit much over the roof but expect to do better next time :)
cwarnerx - Lead dog - 10/Jun/07 with Clive Bunney

shoulders - Lead - 29/May/07 with andy sharp

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 20/May/07 with Chris Warner

ran out of steam right at the chains & took some nice air time!
Dan Jenkin - Lead dog - 2007 with Andy Talent, Gordon Jenkin

Circus - Lead β - 10/Nov/06 with Alex Harper

simon kimber - Lead RP - 2002 with Gavin Cytlau

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/97 with jon

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/95 with Dee Herbert

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ross87stephenson, jonnyblindsign, chris85, Sam Watson, hankyc, marcduhig, desperate_crack, dan23584, Dax, cha1n, saz_b, poey50, bluerockman, tweedcore

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