A Byg classic. Start at a pillar below the most left-hand of the Head Sector roofs. Climb carefully to the first bolt then, keeping to the right of a loose flake, continue up solid rock to the half-height ledge. Climb steeply into a roof-capped corner, pull round into an uncomfortable niche then power through on jugs to an abseil station.

R.Thomas G.Gibson

Marti999 10/Oct Lead O/S
mikedevcole 12/Sep Lead RP

Had a go about a year and half ago. 1st go today, great route.

rachelvlc 12/Sep Lead
lewiz 12/Sep Lead O/S
with Yan Mao
Edward Kwong 12/Sep Lead β

Fun juggy finish through the roof.

Gloria 12/Sep 2nd
Sarah Black 22/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug Lead
Milkman 02/Aug -

I have replaced the hanger that was missing, to do this I removed a low down hanger from the route two to the right. That route has another bolt 3ft above it and is easy to clip. If I go back I will put a hanger back on it, but at least Heady Days is fully climbable. Good route

afrosam 25/Jul Lead rpt

Still do-able if you take a nut to thread over the missing bolt

TomJ 25/Jul Lead β

top notch!

with Kuang
chakrit 18/Jul Lead O/S
jjsk8a 11/Jul Lead dnf

Gutted bolt hanger missing so could not finish and this was the main climb i came to do, left a mallion in place for people to repeat hopefully some nice person will reequip this by the time i next visit

dan gibson 09/Jul Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Derek Ryden 21/Jun Lead O/S

Bolt hangers missing just before the big overhang. Tied them off badly. Fantastic route.

with Ash
Hidden 30/May TR dog
Robnort 30/May 2nd RP
Nick Russell 25/May Lead rpt

The third bolt above the ledge is missing a hangar, making the steep moves around the roof pretty spicy.

SJS 25/May Lead dnf
with Claire
Hidden 21/May Lead dnf
steve_gibbs 10/Apr Lead dnf
with Ben Darby
luke glaister 07/Mar Lead dog

Gutted. I got all the way to the chains and to the left of them on sloping holds. If the drews were in I could have clipped them. However, I will take the fact that I never cheated and grab the rings. Instead I held the rope and took my first sports fall outside. Nothing to it.. class route. Will get it next time for sure. 3***s

RobinJones 07/Mar TR dnf
Sam Watson ??/2015 Lead
Rockmonkey1977 06/Sep/14 Lead dog
jammy4536 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Dan Savory 31/Aug/14 Lead β

Trad climbing on bolts!

with Paul Edwards
i.fish2000 29/Aug/14 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Ollie B 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
EmilyElouise 24/Aug/14 2nd β
with Tom
Ian Bell 16/Aug/14 Lead dog

Top route, went wrong way on crux. Great!

Stanners 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

One of my more memorable 'bolted rock climbs'. Exciting and good fun. Rather pumped clipping the belay but pleasantly surprised that my fitness can't be too shocking at the mo! First half is a nice warm up to the significantly more tricky second half. 3 stars seems fair.

with Alkis, Andy G, Jack Bradbrook
Hidden 06/Jul/14 Lead
hankyc 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S

cool climb! easy for 6b+ but suprisingly steep!

Chubbard 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S


with Tomar
afrosam 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 22/Jun/14 Lead β
sus 21/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jun/14 -
Nick Russell 13/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Didn't enjoy this as much as last time, very awkward.

Carl Watkins 13/Jun/14 Lead β
with Bill G
Tim W 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead β
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ollie_e 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Felt well hard.

anthony henry 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Chris
chrisscutt 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Awesome climb for the grade. Also stopped half way up to get some amazing pics of Ollie on Almost me.

with ant
mikedevcole 27/May/14 Lead dog

Great route. Putting in draws. RP attempt stopped by rain. Need to head back soon!

Garrouli 26/May/14 Lead rpt
with Helen
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead β
cem 26/May/14 Lead β

Kirill led it first so not an onsight.

Kirill 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Quite good, I liked it.

Hidden 19/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
James_L88 03/May/14 Lead dog

One rest 2 clips from the top. Will get it clean next time.

UnkArl 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Bloody awkward negotiating the roofs.

tedj234 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kate, Harry
skippington 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Garrouli 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Mark
Billg 22/Aug/13 Lead
with Bob Brewer
BenNorman 13/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Quality, awesome position

3 Names 18/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Nick Russell 03/Jul/13 Lead β

Probably the best 6b+ I've done. Shame about the ledge, but the top half is awesome - it just looks so improbable!

Hidden 03/Jul/13 Lead dnf
lukehodson 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
brices 25/Jun/13 Lead RP

prety sure i have done this before but not logged it, awsome positions and good value for 6b+

Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
GrantB 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Billg 05/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy Wiseman
Mike Goldthorp 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Superb, really inviting line, that roofed corner just calls out to be climbed, and felt more technical than thuggy to me.

bonelessivar 02/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 02/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Ric
gripped01 19/May/13 Lead


with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait
Aaron Lines 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2013 Lead RP
Clarky10 11/Nov/12 Lead dog

After a little time away another spanking at Ban y gor!!

Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 08/Sep/12 TR

Nice mix of technical and thuggy moves.

katherinesydney 08/Sep/12 2nd dog

Enjoyed the first bit: good technical climbing. Rested at the roof though: too thuggy for me and had to resort to tiny crimps where the others hand jammed. Must feed hands more pies.

with sean, ivan bicknell
Hidden 02/Sep/12 Lead dog
J1_TOV 26/Jul/12 Lead β
Dizz 09/Jun/12 TR dog

Very hard - excellent climbing.

with David B
AJM 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Great fun

Hidden 24/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead dog
jon_gill1 25/Mar/12 Lead dog

got to the final bolt cleanly at which point i was totally pumped and had to rest!gutted as i was only 2 foot of easy climbing from the lower off!never mind was still a great route!

JWB 25/Mar/12 TR β


JamesBrowning 24/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Toby
Dean177 23/Mar/12 Lead
with Will Twigger
mikeshewring 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
westyb3 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jack Blackmore
jack1996 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S

dont listen to Quarryboy, its a lovely route with amazing views! He obviously doesnt like manly climbs...

with si
rjshade 21/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Alastair Hamilton
bluesharper 20/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Caradog
Quarryboy 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Listen to jack1996 because speaking from his extensive climbing experience that he has accumulated from nearly 100 routes at a range of grades under E1, most of which being grotty quarry classics. He is convinced this is "a lovely route with amazing views!" too bad I didn't find that fat off rest he must have got among that series of roofs otherwise I may have been able to stop and take in that amazing scenery of some dense woodland that he got. It’s basically Exactly as Mark described it "a bit of a thugs route” Just big moves on good holds in steep ground. Didn't feel like particularly imaginative climbing if I'm honest you might as well go to a climbing wall instead if you want to find a route with this level of complexity.

with Maya Holding, Mark Davies
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
con321 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
peaches69 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

awesome route, even took in sum scenery hangin around thru the ovahangs

with connor
GarethHall 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
matthewjames 08/Jun/11 Lead β
with Nick Jones, Sarah Jane Barr, Chris Davis
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/11 Lead RP
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead rpt
tommytuffa 14/May/11 Lead β
with Felix
felixthelion 14/May/11 Lead O/S

over rated

SamStokes 08/May/11 Lead rpt
Ed Coombes 08/May/11 2nd dog
Spacetourist 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
Rosea Day 30/Apr/11 Lead β
Laurence Everitt 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Jay Kay
Graham Atkins 24/Apr/11 Lead β
danJBA 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
al99 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
martinazando 16/Oct/10 TR dog
with Jeff
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead RP
tombeasley 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd dog
cjsheps 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S

onsight? went a bit off route onto the pre-crux of the 7a for a bit - realised my mistake, downclimbed to the ledge and finished easily...brilliant route, definite ***. 6b maybe?

jas128 27/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Christian Reynish 03/Jul/10 2nd dog
with stu
gb05 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Gavin Cytlau
btc 26/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Hamish
cornishben 10/Jun/10 Lead RP

2nd go after a lack of commitment first time round

DorsetGareth 10/Jun/10 Lead rpt

Surprisingly good.

SamStokes 06/Jun/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead dnf
tcfield 02/May/10 Lead dog

Great Route, really hard climbing past the last couple of BR's. Must go back for the full tick

Greg Pittam 06/Mar/10 Lead β
with Raff
disposition62 ??/2010 -
quiffhanger ??/2010 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 09/Aug/09 Lead
Paul Robertson 13/Jul/09 Lead dog
with Gareth
DorsetGareth 13/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Great route, tarnished by the slimey rock (but it had been raining!)

Hidden 21/Jun/09 TR dog
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/09 Lead
shyster boulder 22/Apr/09 Lead β
with alex harper
3 Names ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Dan H
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 03/Jul/08 Lead O/S


with Andrew Bitmead
SamStokes 28/Jun/08 Lead rpt

Felt loads easier today! Still a cracking route and definately worth its classic status!!!

with Alex Harper
kester 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S

An absolute awsome pitch. 6b climbing in 7a teratory. best sports route i've done.

with johny
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 16/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Bloody hard. Would've made a savage E2 on natural pro.

with Simon Denison
SamStokes 08/Sep/07 Lead RP

Got this clean 1st time today but have taken a fall on this previously!

Hidden 10/Aug/07 Lead β
Paul Robertson 24/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Peter Shepherd
Clarky10 19/Jul/07 2nd dog
with Mike Broady
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Lead RP
cwarnerx 10/Jun/07 Lead dog

Gob smacking. All got a bit much over the roof but expect to do better next time :)

with Clive Bunney
shoulders 29/May/07 Lead
Paul Robertson 20/May/07 Lead rpt
with Chris Warner
Dan Jenkin ??/2007 Lead dog

ran out of steam right at the chains & took some nice air time!

with Andy Talent, Gordon Jenkin
Circus 10/Nov/06 Lead β
with Alex Harper
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead RP
with Gavin Cytlau
Roget 12/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with jon
goi.ashmore 25/Mar/95 Lead O/S
with Dee Herbert
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ross87stephenson, jonnyblindsign, Hidden, chris85, Sam Watson, hankyc, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, marcduhig, desperate_crack, dan23584, Dax, cha1n, Hidden, Hidden, saz_b, poey50, bluerockman, tweedcore
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set