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Heady Days*** 6b+

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[Heady Days in the wilderness at Ban-Y-Gor, 4 kb]A Byg classic. Start at a pillar below the most left-hand of the Head Sector roofs. Climb carefully to the first bolt then, keeping to the right of a loose flake, continue up solid rock to the half-height ledge. Climb steeply into a roof-capped corner, pull round into an uncomfortable niche then power through on jugs to an abseil station.
R.Thomas G.Gibson

Photo: Heady Days in the wilderness at Ban-Y-Gor © drysori
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 111 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Bloody awkward negotiating the roofs.
Alex Winter - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Jonathan

tedj234 - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with Kate, Harry

skippington - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13

Garrouli - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Mark

Billg - Lead - 22/Aug/13 with Bob Brewer

Quality, awesome position
BenNorman - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13

3 Names - Lead rpt - 18/Jul/13

Probably the best 6b+ I've done. Shame about the ledge, but the top half is awesome - it just looks so improbable!
Nick Russell - Lead β - 03/Jul/13 with Will Attridge

Hidden - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jun/13

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13 with Si Brice

prety sure i have done this before but not logged it, awsome positions and good value for 6b+
brices - Lead RP - 25/Jun/13 with Luke Hodson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13

GrantB - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/13 with Alpha Red

Billg - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with Andy Wiseman

Superb, really inviting line, that roofed corner just calls out to be climbed, and felt more technical than thuggy to me.
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Cailean Harker

bonelessivar - Lead RP - 02/Jun/13 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13 with Ric

Airy...
gripped01 - Lead - 19/May/13 with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with frank ramsay

Hidden - Lead RP - 2013

After a little time away another spanking at Ban y gor!!
Clarky10 - Lead dog - 11/Nov/12 with Sam Stokes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Nice mix of technical and thuggy moves.
The Ivanator - TR - 08/Sep/12 with Katherine, Sean

Enjoyed the first bit: good technical climbing. Rested at the roof though: too thuggy for me and had to resort to tiny crimps where the others hand jammed. Must feed hands more pies.
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 08/Sep/12 with sean, ivan bicknell

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Sep/12

xcomm - Lead β - 26/Jul/12

Very hard - excellent climbing.
Dizz - TR dog - 09/Jun/12 with David B

Great fun
AJM - Lead O/S - 24/May/12 with Simon Hann

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/May/12

got to the final bolt cleanly at which point i was totally pumped and had to rest!gutted as i was only 2 foot of easy climbing from the lower off!never mind was still a great route!
jon_gill1 - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12 with john beardmore

Fantastic.
JWB - TR β - 25/Mar/12 with Jon Gill

JamesBrowning - Lead dog - 24/Mar/12 with Toby

Dean177 - Lead - 23/Mar/12 with Will Twigger

mikeshewring - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Tom Harrison

westyb3 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11 with Jack Blackmore

dont listen to Quarryboy, its a lovely route with amazing views! He obviously doesnt like manly climbs...
jack1996 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with si

rjshade - Lead dog - 21/Aug/11 with Alastair Hamilton

bluesharper - Lead dog - 20/Aug/11 with Caradog

Listen to jack1996 because speaking from his extensive climbing experience that he has accumulated from nearly 100 routes at a range of grades under E1, most of which being grotty quarry classics. He is convinced this is "a lovely route with amazing views!" too bad I didn't find that fat off rest he must have got among that series of roofs otherwise I may have been able to stop and take in that amazing scenery of some dense woodland that he got. It’s basically Exactly as Mark described it "a bit of a thugs route” Just big moves on good holds in steep ground. Didn't feel like particularly imaginative climbing if I'm honest you might as well go to a climbing wall instead if you want to find a route with this level of complexity.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Maya Holding, Mark Davies

I don't like these climbs which have mid height ledges.
James Marshall - Lead O/S - Jul/11 with dan

con321 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11

awesome route, even took in sum scenery hangin around thru the ovahangs
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/11 with connor

GarethHall - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Patrick Goodwin

matthewjames - Lead β - 08/Jun/11 with Nick Jones, Sarah Jane Barr, Chris Davis

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/May/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 14/May/11

tommytuffa - Lead β - 14/May/11 with Felix

over rated
felixthelion - Lead O/S - 14/May/11 with T. Brookes

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 08/May/11 with Ben Matthews

Ed Coombes - 2nd dog - 08/May/11 with crazyfool

Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Rosea

Rosea Day - Lead β - 30/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Jay Kay

Graham Atkins - Lead β - 24/Apr/11

danJBA - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Joe Fraser

mrfeebus - 2011

Hidden - 2011

al99 - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - TR dog - 16/Oct/10 with Jeff

Hidden - Lead RP - 12/Sep/10

tombeasley - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/10

found the moves above the roof very tough
hms - 2nd dog - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/10

Jenny Seaborne - TR dog - 27/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10

Christian Reynish - 2nd dog - 03/Jul/10 with stu

gb05 - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/10 with Gavin Cytlau

btc - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Hamish

2nd go after a lack of commitment first time round
cornishben - Lead RP - 10/Jun/10 with Gareth Pratt

Surprisingly good.
DorsetGareth - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/10 with Ben Sutton

SamStokes - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/10 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/May/10

Great Route, really hard climbing past the last couple of BR's. Must go back for the full tick
tcfield - Lead dog - 02/May/10

Greg Pittam - Lead β - 06/Mar/10 with Raff

disposition62 - 2010

quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 2010

IceMonkey1982 - Lead - 09/Aug/09

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 13/Jul/09 with Gareth

Great route, tarnished by the slimey rock (but it had been raining!)
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Paul Robertson

Hidden - TR dog - 21/Jun/09

super intimidating but yarding over on huge jugs is pretty cool. Some hold spotting issues pulling up to the lower off which made it a bit more pumpy than it needed to be.
Quiddity - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Curious Yellow

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/09

shyster boulder - Lead β - 22/Apr/09 with alex harper

3 Names - Lead O/S - 2009 with Dan H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Wow!
Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/08 with Andrew Bitmead

Felt loads easier today! Still a cracking route and definately worth its classic status!!!
SamStokes - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/08 with Alex Harper

kester - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/08

An absolute awsome pitch. 6b climbing in 7a teratory. best sports route i've done.
Dale - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with johny

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Bloody hard. Would've made a savage E2 on natural pro.
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/07 with Simon Denison

Got this clean 1st time today but have taken a fall on this previously!
SamStokes - Lead RP - 08/Sep/07 with Ben Matthews

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Aug/07

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/07 with Peter Shepherd

Clarky10 - 2nd dog - 19/Jul/07 with Mike Broady

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Jul/07

Gob smacking. All got a bit much over the roof but expect to do better next time :)
cwarnerx - Lead dog - 10/Jun/07 with Clive Bunney

shoulders - Lead - 29/May/07 with andy sharp

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 20/May/07 with Chris Warner

ran out of steam right at the chains & took some nice air time!
Dan Jenkin - Lead dog - 2007 with Andy Talent, Gordon Jenkin

Circus - Lead β - 10/Nov/06 with Alex Harper

simon kimber - Lead RP - 2002 with Gavin Cytlau

Roget - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/97 with jon

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/95 with Dee Herbert

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam Watson, hankyc, JackMac, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, marcduhig, desperate_crack, dan23584, Dax, cha1n, Hidden, Hidden, saz_b, poey50, bluerockman, tweedcore

Voting
Total votes cast 83
hard 6c0 of 42
6c0 of 42
easy 6c0 of 42
hard 6b+5 of 42
6b+32 of 42
easy 6b+2 of 42
hard 6b3 of 42
6b0 of 42
easy 6b0 of 42
3 Stars28 of 41
2 Stars8 of 41
1 Star4 of 41
0 Stars0 of 41
Bag of .....1 of 41
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Style of ascent

Lead93 of 111 (83.8%)
Followed9 of 111 (8.1%)
Toproped6 of 111 (5.4%)
Unknown3 of 111 (2.7%)

'Climbed'12 of 111 (10.8%)
clean O/S41 of 111 (36.9%)
clean β11 of 111 (9.9%)
clean rpt14 of 111 (12.6%)
clean RP10 of 111 (9.0%)
dogged21 of 111 (18.9%)
dnf2 of 111 (1.8%)