Never Never Land*** E5 6a
[Zeus, Never Never Land, 3 kb]43m. A great route, and one of the better E5s in the quarries, although still a serious one. Start below the stepped roofs and ascend the groove past them until you can make a move left to go up to an iron spike. Follow the sustained flake up until bolts can be seen above and right on Igam Ogam (not described). Either move up to these and climb to the top (safer) or move up to a rest and gear. Then trend up and left to a sloping ledge on the edge of the buttress and make your way very boldly to the top. © ROCKFAX
An interesting route with a small iron spike for the crux. Climb desperately to the spike. Make a hard move to gain height above it up to a rest point (try not to fall onto spike as this will change your sexual orientation). Go up rib to overlap the follow the line of hold to the left of the arete. You can potentially use the bolts on Igam Ogam for protection. Take a second rope to belay at the top.
M E Crook, N Walton, AD Newton Feb/1984

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, a State of Slate.

Photo: Zeus, Never Never Land © caradoc
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 24 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Ed morris - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Dickon

tim newton - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/14 with mike grant

A great lead by Ben. Simple enough but frightening run outs/gear
Dan724 - 2nd O/S - 12/Nov/13 with Ben Ryle

Tidy.
BenRyle - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/13 with Dan

Great climbing albeit above very spaced and marginal kit..
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Alexis, jo

Ace route. bold but steady!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/12 with Ben Alsford

dannyboy83 - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with Felix Coxwell

feilx - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Andy L

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Had tried before but it rained. Lassoed the spike from good footholds below. Above this its scary for a while, a few sketchy rp's and a decent rock1 out left. BETA* decent rps above the spike*
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Gwen Lancashire, Duncan Campbell

Ruuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunnn ouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt!....
JulesV - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Shauna Cunningham

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with ollie

Hidden - TR dog - 2006

Dringo - 2005

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/02

liabilityliz - TR - 06/Jul/99 with Mark Trepte

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 1994

tlr - 2nd - 23/Oct/93 with Adrian

chrisdavies - Lead - 1990

Steve Walker - Lead - 1990

Mike Owen - 10/May/87 with Elaine Owen

mark mcgowan01 - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, gd303uk

Voting
Total votes cast 21
hard E60 of 7
E60 of 7
easy E60 of 7
hard E54 of 7
E53 of 7
easy E50 of 7
hard E40 of 7
E40 of 7
easy E40 of 7
hard 6b0 of 7
6b0 of 7
easy 6b0 of 7
hard 6a0 of 7
6a7 of 7
easy 6a0 of 7
hard 5c0 of 7
5c0 of 7
easy 5c0 of 7
3 Stars1 of 7
2 Stars5 of 7
1 Star1 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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