Khubla Khan** E3 6b

Rockfax Description
A great route with a desperate crux. Climb up to the bolt easily, pass it directly with difficulty and then move left into the cracked groove. The gear soon runs out, so place it whilst you can. A large metal spike protects the moves to the belay ledge out right. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Was E3 6a - Climb direct to bolt. Either;

Descend 2 metres, move left to ledge then move over bulge to a cleaned groove - 6a, or

Rock-over to the groove - 6b.

Go up groove to an iron spike. Lasso spike for protection.

M E Crook, A D Newton Mar/1985

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK.

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This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

AMJ098 - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/14 with Charlie stewart, Dan Geh

Amazing. Managed to lasso the metal spike at the top
Dan Geh - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/14 with Izzy, CGDStewart, Adam Jordan

Hidden - TR β - 25/Oct/14

Ed morris - Lead β - 29/Jul/14 with Jerry Handren

Hidden - Lead β - 15/Jul/14

More decent kit than i remember. E3 6a imo.
wolf.leeb - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/14 with Alexis

Misha - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/14 with Dave R, Ian W

duncandarnell - TR O/S - 18/Jun/14

Marti999 - Lead β - 21/Apr/14 with Debbie

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/13

6b way, steady to bolts then a tough move then steady but bold, there is gear but don't know the quality of the rock.
centurion05 - Lead O/S - Jul/13

Hard crux (went straight up - 6b)! Took a while to work out the moves and commit though! Should have taken some slightly larger gear for the groove.
shed_hed - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Ryan Gibson

tim newton - Lead G/U - 15/Jun/13 with stuart lade

georgedunton - 2nd - 15/Jun/13 with Stuart Lade

did it the 6b way, awesome route
HAJ Francis - Lead O/S - 30/May/13

Been on the list for a while, really enjoyed this. Bit cold (despite the date!) so not so fluid on crux (did this up then left way), which climbs superbly. The groove is steady (Fr 4 or 5) but not trivial, only reliable nut before spike is near the top. Classic moment whilst lassoing, me: "Imagine what it'd be like if you dropped the sling, crazy!" and virtually the next second I drop my sling - idiot. Magically it caught on my left heel and I was able to collect it with my right foot. I had a 120 sling and eventually got the spike but a 240 would be way easier - stick a krab on and throw over spike. More E3 than E4 probably but if you did fall in the groove not so clever. Overall, really good but steady head needed for the groove.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 17/May/13 with Rhys

It got too dark to see the holds so came down off crux
dswansonlow - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/13 with Helen

Rachel Somerville - TR - 02/Feb/13 with Nik

Nik Jennings - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/13 with Rachel

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2013

Jen Crook - 2nd - 28/Aug/12 with John Houlden, Rob Patchett

Up and down about 5 times with marginal progress each time, strong winds were just too off-putting so reversed.
ksjs - Lead dnf - 22/Jul/12 with owen

dicky79 - 2nd O/S - 07/Jul/12 with Mark Nicholson

metal arms - Lead - 14/Apr/12

easier and less runnout than short stories.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with nic

Had been nervous about this route for 25 years so abbed to place some gear in the groove. But it's easy and you could place it in the lead. Did the 6b crux first go. Good route. Short stories is next.
Julian Cooper - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Ben Steel

Thin pulling for few moves on crux, reasonable medium wire in groove. Played on this on a top rope several years ago when I started out.
mynyddresident - Lead β - 22/Aug/11 with tony

chris sm - 2nd O/S - 05/Aug/11 with Jon Pearson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/11

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with AlexD

feilx - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/11 with Andy L

Done both ways, each felt of pretty much equal difficulty. Cool thin no hands rock up on direct way.
AlexD - 2nd - 09/Jul/11 with Dan

scorky345 - Lead - 28/May/11 with Rich Cannel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/11

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Katherine Schirrmacher, Viv

Done the 6b way
McGuinness - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Ian ll-j

Tom Livingstone - Lead RP - 14/Mar/11 with Jez Hawksworth

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

barni - 2nd rpt - 10/Nov/10 with Comrad, luke, long jon

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/10 with Barni

6a/b move next to a bolt then runout VS almost to the top. Sling the spike then another 5b/c move. An interesting route!
david morse - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/10 with duncan+james

Went down and left at the crux - felt desperate. Took a very long time to lead due to post halloween hangover, truly shocking. Sharp, stiff edges on boots and a clear head would improve things. Run out felt fine.
farmus21 - Lead - 01/Nov/10 with Duncan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

nic42 - 2nd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Jack

Lenny - TR dnf - 26/Sep/10 with Ian W.

sam820 - 2nd - 13/Jun/10 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/10

Ground up, second go. Fell off from excess elvis leg on the crux because im a fairy : (
smallerrich - Lead - 02/May/10 with Sam

1 tricky move and the rest not bad. had fun slinging the iron spike at the top :-)
samrad - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10 with smallerrich

SAF - 2nd dog - 15/Apr/10 with Mark

barni - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/10 with Justin Hughes

Lloyders - Lead O/S - 2010

Steady, good fun crux.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09 with Ben alsford

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/09

Hidden - TR - 23/May/09

First extreme lead. Didn't bother to lassoo
willson - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with John Norman

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Apr/09

barni - 2nd rpt - 08/Apr/09

Hidden - TR - 22/Dec/08

Hidden - TR O/S - 14/Sep/08

Went direct rather than down and left. Found it hard 6a rather than 6b. Certainly soft for E4.
Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/08 with Aly Robertson

1 fall going direct from the bolt
MikeT - 2nd dog - Jul/08 with MS

Bit of a let down. Quite discontinuous and the move which is given 6B in the guide is soft 6B at that, more like 6a but the move is not amazing enough to make up for the rest of it.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Tim Evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08

Hidden - 2008

Matt Vigg - 2008

Did the lower traverse into the second part.
willson - TR O/S - 2008 with John Norman

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2008

barni - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Liam fleming

gregoritos - Lead O/S - Aug/07 with John Bull

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2007 with Rob

Hidden - 2006

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 27/Aug/05 with Pete Robins

Dringo - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/04

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - Aug/02

bullybones - 2000

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/May/99

WB - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/98 with Paul

adi bryant - Lead O/S - 1994

steve taylor - 1994

tlr - Lead - 23/Oct/93 with Adrian

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/93

whispering nic - Lead O/S - May/93 with noj

PaulHermes - 1993

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/92 with jon

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd - May/90 with Bill Williamson

chrisdavies - Lead - 1990

sadams - Lead - 20/Aug/87 with Guy Townsend

sadams - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/87 with Guy Townsend

Nick Biven - TR - 11/Mar/87 with Andrew Jackson (Jack)

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam Booth, owain95, dswansonlow, gd303uk, Dr Fran (Vagabond MC), climbingpixie, Jamie Light, petellis

Total votes cast 58
hard E40 of 23
E44 of 23
easy E413 of 23
hard E35 of 23
E31 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard E20 of 23
E20 of 23
easy E20 of 23
hard 6c0 of 15
6c0 of 15
easy 6c0 of 15
hard 6b0 of 15
6b0 of 15
easy 6b11 of 15
hard 6a4 of 15
6a0 of 15
easy 6a0 of 15
3 Stars0 of 20
2 Stars17 of 20
1 Star3 of 20
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Bag of .....0 of 20
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Clean β
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Clean G/U
Clean RP