|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Banked out with well frozen neve.
Moved together through spindrift powder to first snow ledge. Finished from there in 2 pitches. Julian took the top crawling under the cornice on the right. Very banked out with snow that was soft at the bottom and top.
Julian Sorrell, PCC
Hard ice at the top. Ice pro on sides was getting a bit slushy in places.
Really great gully, however due to the wind the spindrift funnelling down was not too fun! Absolutely amazing blue skies and a route which we really enjoyed! Cornice was only small which made life easier!
Group outing for Brian's 100th visit to Ben summit Plenty snow in the gully
BS, CJ, AM, GM
Ski descent - lower 2/3rds of gully only. Top 1/3rd unskiable due to deep runnel feature.
Blair Aitken, Paul Easto, Andrew Napier, Dave Anderson
Second most of the way as first winter route.
Plenty of unconsolidated snow in bottom half of Gully.. keep close to one side and avoid the middle.. top half was nice hard neve
Very buisy but great snow ice
moved together. pleasant enough but no difficulties
Very busy. Chose to move together. Lots of fun and really atmospheric. The snow ice was perfect!
Day after being posted up in Glencoe Mountaineer's blog, the route was packed! There must have been 10 teams on it at a time at least!
|Ewan Russell||09/Jan/13||Solo O/S||
In descent lovely gully.
Dreadful weather but still really good firm snow and ice and an atmospheric cornice at the top. Moved together and practiced some pitching and snow belays - Great company, great winter day out!
|waiting for snow||06/Jan/13||Solo||
Snow pack generally good, but melt water dripping from buttresses. Large cracks in the snow pack and cornice
Very late start to the day after the previous nights frivolities ...
Ben Hester, Joe Mann
Snow and ice on the mountain generally quite detached from the rock. Gully was still very lean and significantly harder than last time I climbed it. Probably around 40m+ of pretty good ice through the narrower section was great fun, but the fun ended higher up. Horrible unconsolidated snow giving way everywhere and worsening towards top. Had to chop away the soft cornice to get out (very unpleasant). It's a great climb and had the snow been better this would have been my fave day out! But be warned, this gully is especially unpredictable
|Lawrie Brand||29/Apr/12||Lead O/S||
Still winter on the Ben! Sarah's first winter route
Soft snow and ice at the start of gully making progress slow but ice did improve further up. Final two pitches were solid and at a hard grade II.
good firm conditions, no cornice
Conditions at top surprisingly good and enjoyable. Just over three hours from car park to summit, so more like running than climbing.
Dave M, Harvey
|Sam Warby||06/Mar/12||AltLd O/S|
Climb and ski descent, deepest powder found on the Ben today, amazing skiing if a little narrow at the top. Once it opens up it becomes very atmospheric. Didn't cross cornice as icy, stopped and started descent a bit lower...
Ben Wallace, Scott Kirkhope
Moved together. Easy snow plod, well stepped out so didn't bother placing any gear.
Steve Wales, James Bisset
Would have soloed if not thaw conditions. Good route though.
Claggy, headed up with Tom B and Ben the pilot. They headed off and we banged in a blade and I lead off. Lost and scant on pro, thought we might move together but lack of coms. Put my two screws in the ice and Jon came up, good practice. Jon happy with moving together, snow pretty ok. And then the top! Back down via the lochan.
|Ollie B||16/Feb/12||Solo O/S||
up and down to warm up.
Steve, Gavin L, Rew ferguson
|Gavin L||12/Feb/12||AltLd O/S||
Steve, Bob Allan, Rew Ferguson
|David Judge||12/Feb/12||2nd O/S||
Climbed with Jim McCall Leading. Others in Group: James & Bill Buckley, Tom. Dave & Paul
Didn't bother with ropes untill we got to the cornice.
|Mr Wild||29/Jan/12||AltLd O/S|
Icy at the top.
|Northern Mountain Monkey||22/Apr/11||Solo||
Good spring snow with some reasonable neve requiring crampons. Getting a bit thin exiting left at the top and the cornice is drooping with a big crack behind it!
Still in condition, just.
Bruce, Freddie, Sally
Lots of snow and some ice left. Big cornice, avoided deviously
the super indirect abseil finish in the wet to comb gully buttress
Thin conditions on the Ben in general, but good, icy conditions in the Gully. Descended via No4 Gully
Tried cornice on right. No chance! Went more easily on left. Fantastic route.
Semi soloed, stuck on a rope to get over the cornice.
Easiest conditions I've done it in. Just roped the step over the cornice.
Didn't quite go to plan. Swam through snow for the majority of the gully, difficult to find runners and the occasional good belay. Ran the last pitch out too far, couldn't surmount the cornice and didn't have enough rope to escape it on the left, panicked and froze, couldn't go back down and had to be rescued. All in all an eventful route but not something I want to repeat anytime soon.
great firm neve up this athmospheric gully (good trainging for the calf muscles!)
A really nice atmospheric gully. Make sure to keep left at the top section though as cornice is often impassable to the right and centre.
Quite crappy snow made way to good snow ice. Absolutely no gear.
Tom Dewhurst, Martin
A lot of very firm snow-ice about, and only a very small cornice.
|dan gibson||13/Dec/10||AltLd O/S||
Very nice spring-like conditions on the Ben. Grade I up until the top 100m, which felt like grade II. Gear hard to find.
Top two pitches nice, bottom sugary. Glorious still weather
Nice quick route up into the sun! Easy conditions, not sure it warrants II when like this.
|Dave Mason||30/Nov/10||AltLd O/S||
|Stewart B||28/Nov/10||Solo O/S||
Soft in places, well consolidated in others. A good day out
Between the approach and the route its self we must have encountered almost every snow type known to man! knee deep powder, rock hard neve and everything in between. Really nice route though. Some lovely ice formations in it.
helleuva walk in .. i feel like i was hit by a train today
|Only a hill||12/May/10||-||
A fantastic route with near-perfect conditions underfoot. Some crevasses near the bottom but all easily avoidable. The gully itself was a stonking great slope of hard glacier ice, getting steeper and steeper until the improbable final pitch. A detour left to avoid a huge cornice. What a way to end the season!
Led with Anne the one axe wonder. Buried in snow making finding gear and belays hard. Cornice at top much larger than the previous week.
27/Mar/10 (Alt Lead with Chris) Took ages to find the route due to low visibility even though i've done it before. Route was in good condition. Almost entirely snow with ice on sides of gully. Lots of spindrift avalanches.
3/Jan/09 (2nd with Griff) Plenty of ready made steps bashed in by the traffic jam above. The route gets more interesting higher up.
Harmony Smith, Dan Bulman, Martin Smith, Josef Frank
Rewarding first winter alternate lead but couldn't enjoy the view from beyond the cornice due to complete white out conditions...
Simon, Dave, Sarah
|el cholo||20/Mar/10||AltLd O/S||
definitely stay left at cornice! otherwise you'll find a pretty scary traverse under cornice
A bit of an epic. Gully was in relatively good nick, with nice neve. Snow was a bit rotten towards the top, the cornice pitch was totally unprotected. Should of piched less and soloed more!
Jamie Nicholson, Andy Wilkinson
bombed by falling ice from above
The Badger, The Fox
With TtB and Flat Eric. Backed off just before the opening near the top due to bad conditions and vis.
A fine route, cornice most entertaining in Ice Jedi style.
Paul W, Kyle and Burncool
|Kyle Rance||24/Feb/09||Solo O/S|
Poor vis meant we could not find the route. Tried to exit using Raeburns Easy but ended up backing off due to cruddy ice and snow conditions.
Matt Coulburn, Kyle Rance, Tom Evans
Excellent neve again
After backing Five finger discount due to the very suspect looking ice section (Not attached and with a big crack in it!)we did this a a quick way to the top - enjoyable but a touch on the easy side.
|Jonny M||29/Dec/08||Lead O/S|
Rad, Ben C
|Billy Walker - Bad Seller||05/Dec/08||Solo rpt||
good easy gully,blue skies party of four
really good conditions/snow, big steps
|Si dH||26/Mar/08||AltLd O/S||
Moved together and then I led one pitch through the cornice at the top. Good fun, staightforward.
|Alex Thompson||22/Mar/08||Solo O/S||
Jonny & Anton
|Somerset swede basher||23/Feb/08||Solo O/S||
|Andy DB||17/Feb/08||AltLd O/S||
Fantastic my first real winter climb
|Jimmy O||16/Feb/08||AltLd O/S||
Very busy. Solid neve all the way up. Bomber ice near the top, beautiful ice screw belay.
Andy Blackett and Jonny Taylor
Conditions were easy, more like grade I, but still very pleasant.
Mick D, Andy Platell
|jonny taylor||16/Feb/08||AltLd O/S|
|Giles Davis||14/Feb/08||2nd O/S|
included a pitch of III ice on the left wall below cornice
|Rosey Posey||10/Feb/08||2nd O/S||
led it on cold hard clear windy day, having 2nd it 3 days previously.
Cold and sunny, good snow in the gully.
Climbing during a pretty continuous flow of very heavy spindrift avalches. Then got hit by the cornice as it collapsed on top of us, sent my partner for a spinning 15meter fall unside down! Then he set of a windslab avalanche onto my head. A rather painfull day.
First scottish winter route
A great soloing route.
skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
stewart, Jason Mitchell
|Jamie B||20/Dec/07||Lead rpt||
Soloed up to the first icy bit then simil climbed the rest. One wee icy ramp then stuck to the left wich also had some nice ice.
John and Pete
|Julian Prieto||?/Feb/07||AltLd O/S|
First scottish winter climb.
Will, Alex and Ian
|andy wa||02/Apr/06||Solo O/S||
Banked out with snow
Full on Scottish weather, frozen eyebrows.
Charlie Everett, JDP
|Epic Ebdon||01/Feb/06||AltLd O/S||
My first winter route, perfect blue skies.
Grade III 2 huge ice bulges.
First winter climb, awsome.
Andy, Russ, Si
|Chris L Hill||??/2006||Lead O/S||
Difficult walk in through deep snow up in Coire na Ciste. No other parties in whole corrie. Route looked unlikely until well into gully. Soloed up soft snow all the way to the first ice pitch. Fantastic ice canopies overhanging gully. First pitch (DP) up steep thin ice with couple of tricky moves over chockstone (crux) and then easier angled snow to below 2nd ice pitch. 2nd pitch (AH) fairly easy angled ice through narrows and through route past grounded icicle to easy cornice and plateau.
Thin conditions with plenty of water ice.
Second time I did this, easy climbing and quite busy. The first time it was full of spindrift and was in lean conditions.
|Tony the Blade||?/Feb/05||Solo||
|John Simpson||?/Feb/05||AltLd O/S||
Steve James, Yan
|Nick Wallis||??/2005||AltLd O/S|
Mike and Lisyane
|Howard J||13/Mar/04||Lead rpt||
|Tony the Blade||?/Mar/04||AltLd||
Dave Pritt + others
|Charlie wp Hill||??/2004||-|
a crampon fell off towards the top hehe!
Steffan Davies, Kerry Marshall, Will Donaldson, Sion Wilcox, Andrew Wielochowski
Ruth and Mark
And Rachel James
Soloing seemed like a great idea until we arrived at the cornice. First time I'd seen one close up from underneath. Overhanging and creaking in a particularly sinister way. Eventually got over, with a long sling around an icicle for protection. Then had to borrow rope from a party on top, to bring Chris up - since ours was in his rucksac! Still got a bit to learn about this winter lark.
|John Pickles||13/Jan/98||Solo O/S|
42 metre rope
|Simon Caldwell||14/Mar/93||AltLd O/S||
Martin 'led' the first 'pitch'. We then decided we'd move together, as he wasn't placing any gear, and trying to excavate a belay seat was taking ages. I then 'led' the last 'pitch', in that Martin stood to one side holding the rope while I climbed through the cornice with rope attached. I don't think he was actually belayed to anything. All the gear and no idea, only without all the gear.
Mark Eccles etc.
solo on my own.. no crampons. cut steps on top bit and cornice . v steep. still my worst ever epic, total gripper. what the hell was i thinking of? verging grade III on the day even if i'd used crampons.
Charlie Grey, Cindy Johnson, John Griffiths
|Derek Ryden||?/Mar/74||Lead O/S||