|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Stephen Beard, James Heath
direct start, slightly harder but still grade 3
|Timothy Miller||11/Jan||Solo O/S|
|David Kay||30/Dec/14||AltLd dnf||
Walked in in thick cloud but managed to locate the buttress without too much difficulty. We came to the start of an icefall and I was adamant that we were on Green Gully - our route of choice. As it turns out we weren't - oops! We did the first two pitches without really knowing where we were then had a poke at Quickstep. This was pretty thin so we abbed down and walked out. As we were on the way back the cloud lifted and I realised the error. The worst part about it was I had done Number Tree Gully Buttress already!
Good conditions (even used some screws), stunning weather. With Dee.
First lead at the grade. Plenty of banked up snow, soft in places but firmer when required on steeper sections.
|Kasia Lasota||03/Mar/13||2nd O/S||
Went up chimney variation on the last pitch, traverse had hardly any ice on it and looked too hairy.
jev, Ruslan Aizatulin
|Fiona Reid||23/Feb/13||AltLd O/S||
Great conditions, did chimney variation at the top as the initial traverse onto ramp was very thin. Led odd pitches.
Chimney finish, traverse looked thin.
Slightly disappointing route with only the exposed traverse at the end warranting its grade. Had to break trail on this last section as everyone had gone up the Chimney variation. It was by far the best part of the route.
Finished with chimney veriaton
|David Kay||17/Feb/13||AltLd O/S||
A brilliant route on a very testing day, my first grade III and absolutely loved it, the exposure on the step across is superb. Thanks for leaving me that Steve!
IV,5 alternate finish
loads of unconsolidated snow. finished up the chimney variation.
First pitch only
|J Brown||19/Feb/12||AltLd O/S|
Brilliant route, a cheeky step is always exciting!
led all the pitches on a slack top rope so Zac could assess me on day 1 of the leading coaching. Great route. amazing conditions.
Zac Poulton, Tina Rupnik
|Fergus Cuthill||21/Jan/12||AltLd O/S|
Nice little variation on first pitch, went straight up at the top of the last pitch.
Did an alternative first pitch (ice IV) to the ramp. Did the 'traverse right finish' which had a hard (?desperate) step initiallly
Soloed to the first proper mixed section, then finished in two pitches. Really fun, interesting climbing, with good gear when you need it if you're willing to do some digging!
Petarghh, Pete hill
Still in reasonable condition, however top pitch was a bit thin.
Overall very good conditions,except for the final traverse. This was slightly desperate dry tooling and certainly didn't feel grade III. Should have done the more direct finish on the left.
Nice ice. Traverse right at the top felt pretty spicy for III in the conditions.
Graeme, Graham Stuchbury
Alasdair McLean, Andy Nicol
Guiding day. Getting quite thin on the final couple of pitches, other than that, in great condition.
Lead first and third pitch.
Great route in great conditions! Lead by our guide Kenny.
Kenny Grant, Alex Tuck
Much more snow on it than my previous attempt. Easy snow slopes and then a bit of III to the summit. Did final steep pitch rather than exposed traverse.
Guided by James. Great route. Found the final pitch to be very sustained for the grade. Crawled over the top and had to rest on my knees for several minutes. The pump in my legs never quite went away over the rest of the week. I could have rested much better on the route. Really nice route.
James Thacker, Darren09
1st 'proper' winter climb. Ice a bit thin on final pitch. Amazing conditions all day. Loved it!
Lead P1 and 4. Think we went off route on the last pitch (P4). I think rather than making an exposed step right onto the rising snow ledge we went straight but from there following a short but steep corner. Either way, lovely route.
Graham Stuchberry, Graham Boistelle
tech 5 chimney finish
The only route in...possibly
Done in 4 pitches, lead P1 and P3. Poor quality snow meant slow first pitch as I had wanted to take a direct line via Quickstep, but ended up traversing back left with no gear to get onto the snow ramp. Second pitch easily up the snow ramp. Third pitch looked daunting, but good rock gear at the crux, which although tight (stayed right next to the wall) was short lived. Fourth pitch done at speed as light fading and wind increasing. Didn't take easy looking ramp on right, as MASSIVE exposure to get on to it. Instead stayed left and surmounted 5 foot step unceremoniously. Got occasional glimpses back down at this point, and would like to have savoured the exposure. Top route, good rock gear where it matters.
i lead 1,3,5,6 pitches last two pitches are GREAT!!!! lots of powder about made for a strenious accent. placed a cam that wont come out on the crux leading up the the small platform... sooo much powder
Bit out of condition so harder than we expected. Full of powder. Tried the chimney finish but fell without the belay taking any weight finished with the III finish!
|Will Smith||11/Apr/10||AltLd O/S||
What a route! The exposure is continuous. We did it in 5 pitches. Even the easy snow pitches at the beginning feel serious with the huge run out below. Snow low down was brick hard neve and occassionally ice. Gear here was spaced but adequate. There was then a devious traverse to get to the top of a ramp which looked terrifying from below. An exposed but well protected move led to easy snow. I then led an amazing long pitch to the finish. Easy snow/ice led up grooves to an outrageous move on rock. Comparable exposure to anything on tower ridge, the gear was good but still terrifying. The snow slopes from here to the top were seriously worrying. Having been in the sun all day and with gear only available every 10 metres, I was somewhat relieved to reach the top.
The final pitch was superb. Shame there was almost no visibility. With good visibility it would be phenomenal! No wonder there were at least four parties today on this route (including one of our friends, whom we bumped into on site!). A person after us, who seconded Thompson's Route (IV) (which merges(?) to this route at the top pitch), froze at the crux of the top pitch, as it is a traverse. This route containing lots of traverse sections, I am afraid this route is not for beginners even just for seconding for that reason.
Spork and Wallsie, Tinky
|irish paul||26/Mar/10||AltLd O/S||
A very challenging day with a rather exposed bit at the top
Led pitches 2&3. Han's first Grade III lead!
|Dave Foster||31/Jan/10||AltLd O/S||
Andy lead all but one pitch. Felt big, exposed and lacked any meaningful protection. Topped out in the dark, followed by three hour head torch descent. Welcome to winter climbing!
Andy and Ross
|Ross Anderrson||30/Jan/10||2nd O/S||
Thin in places and final pitch in the dark, great intro to the Ben!
Andy, Dave Foster
Scott Kirkhope, Sarah Lewis
Powdery snow / poor conditions meant we had to bail after third pitch. Some sketchy down-climbing meant we left no gear behind.
I led the traverse and a steep icy corner to get to the snow bay. Lots of fresh snow.
Atmospheric day, spindrift pouring off the climb, down in the dark... glorious
|Somerset swede basher||12/Apr/08||AltLd O/S||
Finished up the chimney variation as party in front.
Andy Jukes, Mike Lates
|Si dH||27/Mar/08||AltLd O/S||
Simul-soloed to the platform, Robin lead (crux) traverse pitch, I then led long pitch weaving up corners above that to the top. Great route.
Soloed the first pitch roped together to a good stance on a platform under rocks. Done in 3 shortish pitches from there - the first 2 pitches were excellent with good belay stances. Last pitch started with an awkward step right protected well by a No. 5 DMM Wallnut, and was superb.
Lead and soloed the first pitch, seconded the remainder.
Almost perfect conditions, minimal protection and dubious belays.
Bjarte Grytli Seim
|Jamie B||30/Jan/08||Lead rpt||
Good effort from Niki; First winter route in "full" conditions!
VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
|John Pickles||??/2008||AltLd rpt|
skarabrae, Helen Whiteman, Ian Gardiner, Lucy Prins
|dan cowley||25/Mar/07||Lead O/S||
|Jon Wickham||20/Mar/07||2nd O/S||
scary, unconsolidated, minimal pro
Adrian Fagg, Ian Whitehead
|Andrew Sloan||09/Mar/07||AltLd O/S||
excellent, loads of spindrift, full conditions
Well we got a bit lost and it took a while but still was a good day out.
Lovely snow-ice the whole way up.
went off route, looked easier to bust straight up instead of the very exposed section. was very, very steep at top. Good times.
|Robbie H||06/Mar/06||Lead O/S||
Climbing parallel with Richard Bentley (guiding) and Robert.
Dan the Doctor
Ben dislocated on short ice pitch at start. Popped back in and continued.
Ben Tibbets, geof martin
|dave o||25/Feb/06||AltLd O/S||
Mark Walker and Aidan Roe
stuart macaleese, margaret best
As it was bit lean it was more like grade II.
|Nick Wallis||??/2005||AltLd O/S|
|Charlie wp Hill||??/2004||-|
combined with a solo ascent of the curtain made a really pleasant day out.turned round shortly before summit of the ben by blizzard.
Last 2 pitches. As part of course
Phil ?, Simon P
|John Pickles||?/Jan/99||AltLd O/S||