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Number Three Gully Buttress*** III

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[Awkward Step on No3 Gully Buttress, 2 kb]160m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Photo: Awkward Step on No3 Gully Buttress © Tarquin
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This climb is in 229 logbooks, and on 55 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14

First lead at the grade. Plenty of banked up snow, soft in places but firmer when required on steeper sections.
steveforgrieve - AltLd - 30/Mar/14 with Chris Watkins

jamesh - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with Jim Unwin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13

pete.hutchings - 2nd - 05/Mar/13

jev - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Kasia, Ruslan

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 03/Mar/13

Went up chimney variation on the last pitch, traverse had hardly any ice on it and looked too hairy.
Kasia Lasota - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with jev, Ruslan Aizatulin

Hidden - Lead - 26/Feb/13

martinh13 - 2nd - 26/Feb/13 with Alan

Great conditions, did chimney variation at the top as the initial traverse onto ramp was very thin. Led odd pitches.
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Mike

Chimney finish, traverse looked thin.
Mike_Watson_99 - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Fiona

mrbird - AltLd - 23/Feb/13

Slightly disappointing route with only the exposed traverse at the end warranting its grade. Had to break trail on this last section as everyone had gone up the Chimney variation. It was by far the best part of the route.
Conan - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13 with Pete Glasper

Finished with chimney veriaton
Dougbart - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with david bird

Hidden - Lead - 22/Feb/13

David Kay - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Scott Stanley

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Feb/13

Marq - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/13 with Steve Mount

Hidden - Solo - Feb/13

Hidden - 19/Jan/13

A brilliant route on a very testing day, my first grade III and absolutely loved it, the exposure on the step across is superb. Thanks for leaving me that Steve!
Andrew Lodge - AltLd - 19/Jan/13 with Steve

johnrich - 2nd - 15/Jan/13 with Mike Pescod

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Jan/13

Chris Reid - 2013

IV,5 alternate finish
Pete23 - AltLd - 18/Dec/12 with Stephen Mors

loads of unconsolidated snow. finished up the chimney variation.
morsy - AltLd rpt - 18/Dec/12 with peter berwick

First pitch only
becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 17/Dec/12 with Geoff Pyatt, Jon Ridley

Yourlead - 2nd - 14/Apr/12 with Graham Penny

Jimmy1976 - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/12 with Kenny

colin fagan - 2nd - 03/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Feb/12

J Brown - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with RK

monsterek999 - 18/Feb/12

Tarquin - 17/Feb/12 with Simon and George

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12

Brilliant route, a cheeky step is always exciting!
STWright - 2nd O/S - 17/Feb/12

OwenF - AltLd - 12/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/12

clams - AltLd - Feb/12 with Toby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jan/12

led all the pitches on a slack top rope so Zac could assess me on day 1 of the leading coaching. Great route. amazing conditions.
stratandrew - 2nd O/S - 28/Jan/12 with Zac Poulton, Tina Rupnik

mjsmith1973 - 2nd - 24/Jan/12 with Mike Pescod

Fergus Cuthill - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jan/12

Nice little variation on first pitch, went straight up at the top of the last pitch.
Shaw Brown - Lead - 14/Jan/12 with Judith Neaves

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Jan/12

Did an alternative first pitch (ice IV) to the ramp. Did the 'traverse right finish' which had a hard (?desperate) step initiallly
Simonfarfaraway - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/12 with loz

moved together
knicos - Lead - 07/Jan/12 with Robert Deller

luke321 - 07/Jan/12 with Jack Hodgson

Jack.H.92 - Lead O/S - 07/Jan/12

Soloed to the first proper mixed section, then finished in two pitches. Really fun, interesting climbing, with good gear when you need it if you're willing to do some digging!
MarcusP - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/12 with Louise

Jack Loftus - 06/Jan/12 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/12

Peter Holder - 2nd - 05/Jan/12 with Petarghh, Pete hill

Liam FLeming - 2012 with simon edwards

Still in reasonable condition, however top pitch was a bit thin.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 24/Mar/11 with Phil Applegate

gee-whizz - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Tel-goatman, Gaz

Overall very good conditions,except for the final traverse. This was slightly desperate dry tooling and certainly didn't feel grade III. Should have done the more direct finish on the left.
Stuzz - AltLd rpt - 07/Mar/11 with Isi, Graham

Nice ice. Traverse right at the top felt pretty spicy for III in the conditions.
isi_o - AltLd - 07/Mar/11 with Graeme, Graham Stuchbury

AndyBryce - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Alasdair McLean, Andy Nicol

Guiding day. Getting quite thin on the final couple of pitches, other than that, in great condition.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 05/Mar/11 with Dimitri, Ashley

Lead first and third pitch.
CacCarnBeag - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with John Eccles

Great route in great conditions! Lead by our guide Kenny.
Erik_M - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Kenny Grant, Alex Tuck

Much more snow on it than my previous attempt. Easy snow slopes and then a bit of III to the summit. Did final steep pitch rather than exposed traverse.
edmitchell - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/11 with Pete Davis

Guided by James. Great route. Found the final pitch to be very sustained for the grade. Crawled over the top and had to rest on my knees for several minutes. The pump in my legs never quite went away over the rest of the week. I could have rested much better on the route. Really nice route.
mattrm - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/11 with James Thacker, Darren09

1st 'proper' winter climb. Ice a bit thin on final pitch. Amazing conditions all day. Loved it!
Run_Ross_Run - 2nd O/S - 10/Feb/11 with MattM

Jenny Crook - 2nd - 25/Jan/11 with Rob Patchett

Anthony Dixon - AltLd - 22/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/11

Lead P1 and 4. Think we went off route on the last pitch (P4). I think rather than making an exposed step right onto the rising snow ledge we went straight but from there following a short but steep corner. Either way, lovely route.
Stuzz - AltLd O/S - 19/Jan/11 with Graham, Craig

chmckay - AltLd - 19/Jan/11 with Graham Stuchberry, Graham Boistelle

tech 5 chimney finish
r_o_b_h2 - Lead O/S - Jan/11 with Nik Goile

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Tenko - 2011

Did direct finish - technical grade 4
Steve Woollard - AltLd - 30/Dec/10 with Kenny Grant

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Dec/10

The only route in...possibly
Timo Austino - Lead - 11/Dec/10 with Nats

Done in 4 pitches, lead P1 and P3. Poor quality snow meant slow first pitch as I had wanted to take a direct line via Quickstep, but ended up traversing back left with no gear to get onto the snow ramp. Second pitch easily up the snow ramp. Third pitch looked daunting, but good rock gear at the crux, which although tight (stayed right next to the wall) was short lived. Fourth pitch done at speed as light fading and wind increasing. Didn't take easy looking ramp on right, as MASSIVE exposure to get on to it. Instead stayed left and surmounted 5 foot step unceremoniously. Got occasional glimpses back down at this point, and would like to have savoured the exposure. Top route, good rock gear where it matters.
Karlos - AltLd O/S - 27/Nov/10 with Mark B

i lead 1,3,5,6 pitches last two pitches are GREAT!!!! lots of powder about made for a strenious accent. placed a cam that wont come out on the crux leading up the the small platform... sooo much powder
connor - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/10 with marie

Bit out of condition so harder than we expected. Full of powder. Tried the chimney finish but fell without the belay taking any weight finished with the III finish!
Major_Steve - AltLd O/S - 20/Nov/10 with Neil

What a route! The exposure is continuous. We did it in 5 pitches. Even the easy snow pitches at the beginning feel serious with the huge run out below. Snow low down was brick hard neve and occassionally ice. Gear here was spaced but adequate. There was then a devious traverse to get to the top of a ramp which looked terrifying from below. An exposed but well protected move led to easy snow. I then led an amazing long pitch to the finish. Easy snow/ice led up grooves to an outrageous move on rock. Comparable exposure to anything on tower ridge, the gear was good but still terrifying. The snow slopes from here to the top were seriously worrying. Having been in the sun all day and with gear only available every 10 metres, I was somewhat relieved to reach the top.
Will Smith - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/10 with Matt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/10

The final pitch was superb. Shame there was almost no visibility. With good visibility it would be phenomenal! No wonder there were at least four parties today on this route (including one of our friends, whom we bumped into on site!). A person after us, who seconded Thompson's Route (IV) (which merges(?) to this route at the top pitch), froze at the crux of the top pitch, as it is a traverse. This route containing lots of traverse sections, I am afraid this route is not for beginners even just for seconding for that reason.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/10 with Claudia

tubby two - Lead - Apr/10 with Spork and Wallsie, Tinky

LJKing - Lead O/S - Apr/10 with Piers Harley

t_stork - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/10 with Steve Walls

iceicebaby - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/10 with Sam Wood

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/10

irish paul - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/10 with Sarah Joyce

A very challenging day with a rather exposed bit at the top
Peter Sowerby - 2nd - 13/Mar/10 with Martin Smith

amy - AltLd - 13/Feb/10 with will_he_fall

Led pitches 2&3. Han's first Grade III lead!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 31/Jan/10 with Hannah Evans

Andy lead all but one pitch. Felt big, exposed and lacked any meaningful protection. Topped out in the dark, followed by three hour head torch descent. Welcome to winter climbing!
Dave Foster - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Andy and Ross

Hannah Evans - AltLd - 31/Jan/10 with Ken Applegate

Thin in places and final pitch in the dark, great intro to the Ben!
Ross Anderrson - 2nd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Andy, Dave Foster

Epic!
surfbish - AltLd dnf - 17/Jan/10 with Tom

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

colinthrelfall - 2010

Hidden - 2010

KKilroy - AltLd - 2010

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/09 with CarolineH

Hidden - 18/Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Dec/09

giknockerpod - Lead O/S - 16/Dec/09

Johann - AltLd O/S - Dec/09 with Scott Kirkhope, Sarah Lewis

richiegarside - Dec/09 with Harry Ellis

Powdery snow / poor conditions meant we had to bail after third pitch. Some sketchy down-climbing meant we left no gear behind.
nukebat - Lead dnf - 29/Nov/09 with Stokesy

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/09

Tim Sparrow - Solo - Apr/09

RCrockford - 2nd - 28/Mar/09 with Jonah

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Mar/09

Lou Kennedy - AltLd - 25/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/09

I led the traverse and a steep icy corner to get to the snow bay. Lots of fresh snow.
adamscottthomas - AltLd - 01/Mar/09 with Peter Duggan

Atmospheric day, spindrift pouring off the climb, down in the dark... glorious
Tom Stoddart - Lead - 01/Mar/09 with Dave Battley

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - Mar/09 with Joe Larner

sgl - Lead - 26/Feb/09 with Jacques

joe larner - AltLd - 22/Feb/09 with James

morsy - 01/Feb/09 with gerhard mors

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/09

Caspar - AltLd - 04/Jan/09 with Mike Kann

GScot38 - Lead O/S - Jan/09

Ross McGibbon - 2009

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with George Taylor

roryifinlay - 2nd - 11/Apr/08 with Pete Wilson

rob1 - AltLd - 07/Apr/08 with Dave Williams

Finished up the chimney variation as party in front.
wykealpha - 2nd - 05/Apr/08 with Andy Jukes, Mike Lates

Simul-soloed to the platform, Robin lead (crux) traverse pitch, I then led long pitch weaving up corners above that to the top. Great route.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/08 with Robin Macintosh

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Mar/08

mgg - 2nd - 24/Mar/08

Soloed the first pitch roped together to a good stance on a platform under rocks. Done in 3 shortish pitches from there - the first 2 pitches were excellent with good belay stances. Last pitch started with an awkward step right protected well by a No. 5 DMM Wallnut, and was superb.
markfairbank - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/08 with SteveyM

Lead and soloed the first pitch, seconded the remainder.
SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Mark Fairbank

KevB - AltLd - 19/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead - 15/Mar/08

ed woods - 2nd - 09/Mar/08 with Marshall

dj_brigham05 - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/08 with Jamie Nicholson

Almost perfect conditions, minimal protection and dubious belays.
jamie0510 - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08 with David Brigham

JdotP - AltLd O/S - Mar/08 with Bjarte Grytli Seim

abbeywall - AltLd - Mar/08 with K, EwanR

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Feb/08

gripped01 - Lead - Feb/08 with Si Moore

Hidden - Feb/08

Good effort from Niki; First winter route in "full" conditions!
Jamie B - Lead rpt - 30/Jan/08 with Client

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/08

jl - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/08 with Brad

Hidden - Lead - Jan/08

MarkDavies36 - Solo O/S - Jan/08

TrollJester - AltLd O/S - 2008 with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's

John Pickles - AltLd rpt - 2008 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 04/Apr/07

dan cowley - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Natalie

Captain Solo - Solo - 25/Mar/07

scary, unconsolidated, minimal pro
Jon Wickham - 2nd O/S - 20/Mar/07

With guide.
PanzerHanzler - 2nd - 15/Mar/07 with Adrian Fagg, Ian Whitehead

Heinous conditions.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/07 with Steve Grove

excellent, loads of spindrift, full conditions
crowberry gully - AltLd - 08/Mar/07 with Ross McGibbon

Well we got a bit lost and it took a while but still was a good day out.
Whitt - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Chris Fisher

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/07

Lovely snow-ice the whole way up.
AJM - AltLd O/S - Mar/07 with Tom Lambert

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Feb/07

Hidden - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/07

John Kettle - AltLd - 13/Feb/07

mje1398 - 2nd - 13/Feb/07 with PYB

Hidden - Lead - 05/Feb/07

went off route, looked easier to bust straight up instead of the very exposed section. was very, very steep at top. Good times.
david morse - Solo - Feb/07 with chris todd

dsiska - AltLd - 21/Jan/07 with Matej

dangates - Lead - 2007 with Kirsty Maguire

keith leonard - Lead - 2007 with wife

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Dec/06

Nevis_Ben - 2nd O/S - 28/Dec/06

niall_mac - AltLd - Dec/06 with am_bodach

barney_edin - AltLd - 02/Apr/06 with Simon G

BruceG - 2nd - 18/Mar/06 with Alii

A great climb in great condition.
johnjb - 2nd O/S - 18/Mar/06 with Steve J

Climbing parallel with Richard Bentley (guiding) and Robert.
Robbie H - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/06 with Dan the Doctor

Hidden - Lead - 04/Mar/06

Ben dislocated on short ice pitch at start. Popped back in and continued.
Roch - 2nd O/S - 04/Mar/06 with Ben Tibbets, geof martin

dave o - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/06 with Tim Walmsley

Hidden - Lead - 19/Feb/06

alifin - 2nd - 14/Feb/06 with Mark Walker and Aidan Roe

stooby - AltLd O/S - 27/Jan/06 with Pat

Hidden - AltLd β - Jan/06

edmitchell - 2nd O/S - Jan/06 with stuart macaleese, margaret best

CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/05

James B - 05/Feb/05 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/05

decs - AltLd - Feb/05 with Tom

luckyjim - AltLd - Feb/05 with tom ballard

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/05

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jan/05

As it was bit lean it was more like grade II.
andrewbooth1000 - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Pete Baillie

GPN - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/04

lawrenceK - AltLd - Apr/04

PenJD - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/04 with Dave Evans

Jamie B - AltLd - Feb/04 with Alex Glasgow

Charlie wp Hill - 2004

Hidden - 01/Feb/02

combined with a solo ascent of the curtain made a really pleasant day out.turned round shortly before summit of the ben by blizzard.
Dave Almond - Solo - Jan/01

akhughes - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

Last 2 pitches. As part of course
cem - 2nd - 23/Feb/99 with Phil ?, Simon P

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/99

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Jan/99 with Tim Blakemore

Superb climb
nickdonohue - Lead - 10/Apr/98 with Richard Jasicki

biggianthead - 24/Jan/98 with HT

Marti999 - Lead - Feb/97

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/95

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 18/Jan/92 with George McEwan

Hidden - Solo - 07/Feb/87

Lone Rider - AltLd - 16/Dec/84 with Colin Grant

Falko - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/81 with Alan Taylor

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/77

Hidden - 1975

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Voting
Total votes cast 86
hard IV0 of 43
IV0 of 43
easy IV0 of 43
hard III14 of 43
III26 of 43
easy III3 of 43
hard II/III0 of 43
II/III0 of 43
easy II/III0 of 43
3 Stars28 of 43
2 Stars11 of 43
1 Star4 of 43
0 Stars0 of 43
Bag of .....0 of 43
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Style of ascent

Soloed8 of 229 (3.5%)
Lead43 of 229 (18.8%)
Followed47 of 229 (20.5%)
Alt Leads105 of 229 (45.9%)
Unknown26 of 229 (11.4%)

'Climbed'126 of 229 (55.0%)
clean O/S94 of 229 (41.0%)
clean β1 of 229 (0.4%)
clean rpt4 of 229 (1.7%)
dnf4 of 229 (1.7%)