[Flakes at the start have gone - route now HVS - AJM]
There is no gear available on the initial rising, leftward traverse of pitch 1. The (unprotected) Second must be as bold as the Leader on this - both risk ground fall.

Ticklists: HVS Adventures.

will_benfold 09/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P2, and half of P3. Started direct (still no gear until the belay), and just continued until I ran out of rope. Rich then did the rest, so we got the whole lot in two 45m leads.

with Rich Bull
Hidden 12/Sep/13 -
masa-alpin 24/Jul/13 AltLd dog

I lead P1,3,5, and Adel P2,4. The crux first pitch (5a) was, where it matters, only protected by skyhooks - so this should be E1, though it is graded as HVS and VS in the new (2008) and old (1994) definitive guidebooks, respectively. Adele took repeated leader falls with the fall factor larger than 1 in the first moves in P2 on "Jesus Nut" I placed, that is, the smallest (blue) CAMP ballnut placed in a flared downward-pointing crack, without knowing what gear she fell on to. I was dead scared in belaying...

with Adele L
darren hudson 24/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

The start is very blank and possibly should be E1 due to the fact that a fall would be quite a nasty ground fall. One of our party apparently protected with sky hooks! After pitch 1 the difficulties ease.

with David Ford
Nick Russell 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

A tricky approach, and a very bold first pitch (tough 5a, no protection and a long drop onto broken boulders - definitely worth the HVS for this). After this, a decent VS route in a great setting! Pitches 2 and 5 are the best, with 3 and 4 just linking them. I was surprised by the high quality of the climbing on P5, after looking up at the lichen-covered face. Somehow the route seems to be mostly clear. Altogether an epic route which is well worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous

with Emily
Hidden 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Kevster 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led P1 & P2 as one. Ab down the line for ease of access.

with Will T
Paul Eckton 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with steve read
Hidden 23/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
timtimpeggy ?/Aug/12 -
with Ev
Stroppy 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Interesting approach, decent 2nd pitch

mc fifi 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Ed Hastrop
Joolz 22/Oct/11 Lead

P1, 3 & 5. A great route straight from the ferry!

with Dirtbag
DafSWMC 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

My 2nd climbed directly up to the right-hand end of the first belay ledge, making this a much safer proposition.

with Siwan
LoopyLou 24/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

A remote, eery location, with a difficult approach down a loose scree of rocks. The technical difficulty is all in the first pitch(my lead)- a bold and unprotectable rising traverse; one slip here and you risk decking 12+m onto broken boulders. Pitch 2 is easier climbing, some nice moves, a little thin on gear. We ran pitches 3 + 4 together; the angle steepens slightly but the holds are big. The last pitch was awful - lots of loose rock (i was hit in the face with one flying piece) and precarious climbing. Spoilt an otherwise goodish route. Climbed with Sarah b (NST).

erica 16/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4. The feel of a mountaineering route in a sea cliff setting. Chose to scramble to start of route - unpleasant.

with John
John Brayshaw 16/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Erica
Hidden 16/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, 3 & 5. The first pitch has 5a climbing in a position where falling off would be a very bad idea, but after that things ease substantially, and a mountaineering adventure unfolds. A great day out.

with Dan
Hidden 15/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
RCrockford 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark B, Jonah
ferdia 07/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

led 2nd and final pitches

with Nia Wilcox, Giles Cornah
Alex Thompson 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st unprotected 5b terverse pitch after Chris lead the abseil in... Ran 3rd & 4th pitches together. Bit loose in places, but great top out with seals in view.

willworkforfoodjnr 29/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 5

Hidden 11/Sep/09 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 14/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hobson
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 22/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/08 2nd O/S
cmawson 18/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Great route. 1st short pitch looks a bit stiff, but once you are on it, it's goes fine (probably HVS). Rest of climb has heaps of gear and goes at VS / HS. 2nd and last pitches are great. Easy but enjoyable all the same, with good exposure. Excellent belay ledges. Care needed on descent path - no abb needed. Enjoy!

with Guido
Guy ?/Sep/07 AltLd
davebrox ?/Sep/06 Lead
with Ann Fisher
Hidden 07/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt ?/Jul/05 AltLd
with Hugh Wormington
Okecroak 11/Sep/04 AltLd
with I Butler
Hidden 01/Sep/01 AltLd
timmy-ts ??/2000 -
Hidden 18/Aug/98 AltLd
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Iain Thow 10/Aug/96 AltLd

Led 1,2,4&5

with Liz Jolley
Hidden 07/Jun/95 Lead rpt
colin milton 28/Sep/94 AltLd
with eric milton
eroica64 ?/Sep/92 AltLd
with Denis Crampton
Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
Hidden 07/Jun/90 Lead O/S
steve taylor ?/Sep/87 -

finished in dark

with Mike Beresford
Tom V ?/Aug/86 -
timbanton ??/1984 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet 21/Sep/83 Lead
with Tom Redfern
Pete Nugent ??/1983 -

I have not noted in guidebook but feel sure I did this route with Jack Rosindale in 1983???

uphillnow ?/Apr/81 Lead

A good VS at theb time

with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett
Chris Terrey ?/Aug/80 Lead
with Bob Gookey
RichardMc 31/Aug/75 AltLd O/S
with Dave Langmead, Betty Seifert
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, mullermn, Fatclimber, Hidden, Ybot Htulk, Urgles
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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