Hidden - 12/Sep/13
I lead P1,3,5, and Adel P2,4. The crux first pitch (5a) was, where it matters, only protected by skyhooks - so this should be E1, though it is graded as HVS and VS in the new (2008) and old (1994) definitive guidebooks, respectively. Adele took repeated leader falls with the fall factor larger than 1 in the first moves in P2 on "Jesus Nut" I placed, that is, the smallest (blue) CAMP ballnut placed in a flared downward-pointing crack, without knowing what gear she fell on to. I was dead scared in belaying...
masa-alpin - AltLd dog - 24/Jul/13 with Adele L
The start is very blank and possibly should be E1 due to the fact that a fall would be quite a nasty ground fall. One of our party apparently protected with sky hooks! After pitch 1 the difficulties ease.
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with David Ford
A tricky approach, and a very bold first pitch (tough 5a, no protection and a long drop onto broken boulders - definitely worth the HVS for this). After this, a decent VS route in a great setting! Pitches 2 and 5 are the best, with 3 and 4 just linking them. I was surprised by the high quality of the climbing on P5, after looking up at the lichen-covered face. Somehow the route seems to be mostly clear. Altogether an epic route which is well worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with Emily
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12
led P1 & P2 as one.
Ab down the line for ease of access.
Kevster - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Will T
Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with steve read
evhall - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Tim Bray
timtimpeggy - Aug/12 with Ev
Interesting approach, decent 2nd pitch
Edward Hastrop - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Fiona Adie
mc fifi - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Ed Hastrop
P1, 3 & 5. A great route straight from the ferry!
Joolz - Lead - 22/Oct/11 with Dirtbag
My 2nd climbed directly up to the right-hand end of the first belay ledge, making this a much safer proposition.
DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Siwan
A remote, eery location, with a difficult approach down a loose scree of rocks. The technical difficulty is all in the first pitch(my lead)- a bold and unprotectable rising traverse; one slip here and you risk decking 12+m onto broken boulders. Pitch 2 is easier climbing, some nice moves, a little thin on gear. We ran pitches 3 + 4 together; the angle steepens slightly but the holds are big. The last pitch was awful - lots of loose rock (i was hit in the face with one flying piece) and precarious climbing. Spoilt an otherwise goodish route. Climbed with Sarah b (NST).
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/10
Led pitches 2 and 4. The feel of a mountaineering route in a sea cliff setting. Chose to scramble to start of route - unpleasant.
erica - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10 with John
John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Erica
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10
Led P1, 3 & 5. The first pitch has 5a climbing in a position where falling off would be a very bad idea, but after that things ease substantially, and a mountaineering adventure unfolds. A great day out.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with Dan
dpmUK - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with victim of mathematics
RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Mark B, Jonah
led 2nd and final pitches
mctinkno - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Nia Wilcox, Giles Cornah
Lead 1st unprotected 5b terverse pitch after Chris lead the abseil in... Ran 3rd & 4th pitches together. Bit loose in places, but great top out with seals in view.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Dreadlocks Chris
Pitches 2 and 5
willworkforfoodjnr - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Alex Thompson
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/09
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/09
climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/09 with Andy Hobson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09
Hidden - AltLd - 22/Sep/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/08
Even without the flakes at the start, I thought it was still fairly standard VS, the hardest moves on the traverse are the first couple of moves. It's a good route in a good position, wiht just a bit of loose rock on the last pitch.
dave657 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08 with mel_1
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/08
Great route. 1st short pitch looks a bit stiff, but once you are on it, it's goes fine (probably HVS). Rest of climb has heaps of gear and goes at VS / HS. 2nd and last pitches are great. Easy but enjoyable all the same, with good exposure. Excellent belay ledges. Care needed on descent path - no abb needed. Enjoy!
cmawson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/07 with Guido
Guy - AltLd - Sep/07
davebrox - Lead - Sep/06 with Ann Fisher
davebrox - Lead - Sep/06 with Ann Fisher
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/05
chris wyatt - AltLd - Jul/05 with Hugh Wormington
Okecroak - AltLd - 11/Sep/04 with I Butler
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/01
timmy-ts - 2000
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/98
Hidden - Lead - 1998
Iain Thow - AltLd - 10/Aug/96 with Liz Jolley
Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/95
colin milton - AltLd - 28/Sep/94 with eric milton
eroica64 - AltLd - Sep/92 with Denis Crampton
Hidden - Aug/92
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/90
finished in dark
steve taylor - Sep/87 with Mike Beresford
Tom V - Aug/86
Hidden - 1984
Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 21/Sep/83 with Tom Redfern
I have not noted in guidebook but feel sure I did this route with Jack Rosindale in 1983???
Pete Nugent - 1983
A good VS at theb time
David Smith - Lead - Apr/81 with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett
RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/75 with Dave Langmead, Betty Seifert