Ulysses Factor* HVS
[Ulysses Factor, Focal Buttress, 2 kb][Flakes at the start have gone - route now HVS - AJM] There is no gear available on the initial rising, leftward traverse of pitch 1. The (unprotected) Second must be as bold as the Leader on this - both risk ground fall.

Ticklists: HVS Adventures.

Photo: Ulysses Factor, Focal Buttress © Guy
View all 4 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Led P1, P2, and half of P3. Started direct (still no gear until the belay), and just continued until I ran out of rope. Rich then did the rest, so we got the whole lot in two 45m leads.
will_benfold - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/14 with Rich Bull

Hidden - 12/Sep/13

I lead P1,3,5, and Adel P2,4. The crux first pitch (5a) was, where it matters, only protected by skyhooks - so this should be E1, though it is graded as HVS and VS in the new (2008) and old (1994) definitive guidebooks, respectively. Adele took repeated leader falls with the fall factor larger than 1 in the first moves in P2 on "Jesus Nut" I placed, that is, the smallest (blue) CAMP ballnut placed in a flared downward-pointing crack, without knowing what gear she fell on to. I was dead scared in belaying...
masa-alpin - AltLd dog - 24/Jul/13 with Adele L

The start is very blank and possibly should be E1 due to the fact that a fall would be quite a nasty ground fall. One of our party apparently protected with sky hooks! After pitch 1 the difficulties ease.
darren hudson - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with David Ford

A tricky approach, and a very bold first pitch (tough 5a, no protection and a long drop onto broken boulders - definitely worth the HVS for this). After this, a decent VS route in a great setting! Pitches 2 and 5 are the best, with 3 and 4 just linking them. I was surprised by the high quality of the climbing on P5, after looking up at the lichen-covered face. Somehow the route seems to be mostly clear. Altogether an epic route which is well worth a visit if you're feeling adventurous
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12

led P1 & P2 as one. Ab down the line for ease of access.
Kevster - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Will T

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/12 with steve read

evhall - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Tim Bray

timtimpeggy - Aug/12 with Ev

Interesting approach, decent 2nd pitch
Stroppy - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Fiona Adie

mc fifi - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Ed Hastrop

P1, 3 & 5. A great route straight from the ferry!
Joolz - Lead - 22/Oct/11 with Dirtbag

My 2nd climbed directly up to the right-hand end of the first belay ledge, making this a much safer proposition.
DafSWMC - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/11 with Siwan

A remote, eery location, with a difficult approach down a loose scree of rocks. The technical difficulty is all in the first pitch(my lead)- a bold and unprotectable rising traverse; one slip here and you risk decking 12+m onto broken boulders. Pitch 2 is easier climbing, some nice moves, a little thin on gear. We ran pitches 3 + 4 together; the angle steepens slightly but the holds are big. The last pitch was awful - lots of loose rock (i was hit in the face with one flying piece) and precarious climbing. Spoilt an otherwise goodish route. Climbed with Sarah b (NST).
LoopyLou - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/10

Led pitches 2 and 4. The feel of a mountaineering route in a sea cliff setting. Chose to scramble to start of route - unpleasant.
erica - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10 with John

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Erica

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/10

Led P1, 3 & 5. The first pitch has 5a climbing in a position where falling off would be a very bad idea, but after that things ease substantially, and a mountaineering adventure unfolds. A great day out.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/10 with Dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/10

RCrockford - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/10 with Mark B, Jonah

led 2nd and final pitches
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/10 with Nia Wilcox, Giles Cornah

Lead 1st unprotected 5b terverse pitch after Chris lead the abseil in... Ran 3rd & 4th pitches together. Bit loose in places, but great top out with seals in view.
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Dreadlocks Chris

Pitches 2 and 5
willworkforfoodjnr - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/10 with Alex Thompson

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/09

climbingpixie - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/09 with Andy Hobson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/08

Even without the flakes at the start, I thought it was still fairly standard VS, the hardest moves on the traverse are the first couple of moves. It's a good route in a good position, wiht just a bit of loose rock on the last pitch.
dave657 - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/08 with mel_1

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Apr/08

Great route. 1st short pitch looks a bit stiff, but once you are on it, it's goes fine (probably HVS). Rest of climb has heaps of gear and goes at VS / HS. 2nd and last pitches are great. Easy but enjoyable all the same, with good exposure. Excellent belay ledges. Care needed on descent path - no abb needed. Enjoy!
cmawson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/07 with Guido

Guy - AltLd - Sep/07

davebrox - Lead - Sep/06 with Ann Fisher

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/05

chris wyatt - AltLd - Jul/05 with Hugh Wormington

Okecroak - AltLd - 11/Sep/04 with I Butler

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Sep/01

timmy-ts - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Aug/98

Hidden - Lead - 1998

Led 1,2,4&5
Iain Thow - AltLd - 10/Aug/96 with Liz Jolley

Hidden - Lead rpt - 07/Jun/95

colin milton - AltLd - 28/Sep/94 with eric milton

eroica64 - AltLd - Sep/92 with Denis Crampton

Hidden - Aug/92

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/90

finished in dark
steve taylor - Sep/87 with Mike Beresford

Tom V - Aug/86

Hidden - 1984

Ghastly Rubberfeet - Lead - 21/Sep/83 with Tom Redfern

I have not noted in guidebook but feel sure I did this route with Jack Rosindale in 1983???
Pete Nugent - 1983

A good VS at theb time
David Smith - Lead - Apr/81 with Richard Griffiths, Andy Bennett

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/75 with Dave Langmead, Betty Seifert

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mullermn, Fatclimber, Ybot Htulk, The Pylon King

Voting
Total votes cast 25
hard E10 of 13
E12 of 13
easy E10 of 13
hard HVS0 of 13
HVS3 of 13
easy HVS2 of 13
hard VS6 of 13
VS0 of 13
easy VS0 of 13
3 Stars1 of 12
2 Stars3 of 12
1 Star7 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....1 of 12
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean rpt
dogged