105m, 4 pitches.
P1, 45 m, 5a. Start at the right edge of the lowest slab. Gain and climb the crack that runs up the middle of the main section of slab to good runners in a block at the top. Step right to join the finish of p1 of Don't Panic. Follow this to the belay on twin blocks.
P2, 12 m 4c. Climb the bigger block above the belays starting on the left and stepping right along the lip, then scramble up heather and rocks on the right to the foot of the upper wall.
P3 35 m 5a. Trend right up slabs then back left to a steepening groove. Almost immediately after gaining the vertical part of the groove, bridge left and pull round onto the face to the left using good side-pulls in a hidden crack. Surmount a small overlap directly above and the next a little to the right. Move left to a hole and finish more easily straight up to the ridge.
P4. 15 m, Mod/Diff. Climb/scramble up the broken ridge above
P2, 12 m 4c. Climb the bigger block above the belays starting on the left and stepping right along the lip, then scramble up heather and rocks on the right to the foot of the upper wall.
P3 35 m 5a. Trend right up slabs then back left to a steepening groove. Almost immediately after gaining the vertical part of the groove, bridge left and pull round onto the face to the left using good side-pulls in a hidden crack. Surmount a small overlap directly above and the next a little to the right. Move left to a hole and finish more easily straight up to the ridge.
P4. 15 m, Mod/Diff. Climb/scramble up the broken ridge above
Harold Walmsley, Mike Bailey, Al Leary 28/Jun/2021.
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Route of Interest
Superdirect
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Tryfan)