Rockfax Description
18m. One of gritstone's finest. The leaning start up to the prominent horn proves tricky but the difficult and delicate pull from the mid-height horizontal break tends to stop more attempts (large cams). Zig-zag up the final wall. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Allan Austin Classics, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Rockfall Northern England top 50, The Five Best E3 Routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 25/Sep Sent rpt
with Simon Palmer, Penny Orr
oread 10/Sep Lead O/S

After a long time putting it off. Superb

lukehodson 29/Aug Lead O/S

Brilliant, pleased I manned up and had a go. Would have been much less scary with some large cams!!! (i.e. bigger than gold camalot)

scarmichael 24/Aug Lead RP

The last of the 'big 3', super psyched to tick it off! Still think western front was the hardest

scarmichael 22/Aug Lead dog
JayAyBee 19/Jun Lead

Came back for the lead after bottling the O/S a month ago.

with Nuala
Hidden 05/May Lead
Hidden 20/Apr 2nd rpt
robertmctague 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Jono_LS16 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
GPN 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S

The best route I've done on gritstone! Awesome moves and definitely the hardest of 'the big 3'.

redshapedfriday 23/Aug/15 2nd dog
climberchristy 11/Aug/15 Lead G/U

Glad to get this first go today after messing it up a few weeks ago with Ben. Excellent route. Hardest of the 'big three' E3s I reckon.

with Vanessa
david morse 23/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Not quite as hard as western front in my opinion. Finally led today after failing on it a number of times last year. Another frightener. Glad to get all three dispatched!

with 2 finger
david morse 09/Jul/15 2nd rpt

Managed to second it clean this time. It'll have to be led at some point

with Dragon
Hidden 22/May/15 Lead O/S
Matt Cooke 04/May/15 Lead rpt
with Sam Taylor
will9911 21/Apr/15 Lead β
farmus21 27/Mar/15 2nd
with Sam Radcliffe
samrad 27/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with james G
markalmack 25/Mar/15 Lead rpt

Hard but well good

with sam farnsworth
robertmctague 04/Jan/15 Lead β

Had done the start as a boulder problem before, fell off the boulder problem once today (felt heavy with a rack on) but the rest was onsight. Awesome route.

with Ed and Jack
Scooter Young ??/2015 2nd
phil64 ??/2015 -
mugglewump 02/Oct/14 Lead

Brilliant route with great gear. 2 cams, top did feel run out though.

with Bob A
jacobjacob 01/Oct/14 Solo rpt
samwillo 30/Sep/14 Lead
with LUUMC
Bron H 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
ollyisaclimber 13/Sep/14 Lead β
rikbattye 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Mike Todd 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S

At last! Got the balls to get on it and got it clean. What a route!

nick ferro 04/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt
PaulTanton 12/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 2nd β
Olli-C 11/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Swanny
robman 29/Apr/14 Lead dnf
spidermonkey09 23/Feb/14 Lead dnf

Felt completely nails, could not figure out how to get past the section after the boulder problem. Next time!

Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
PeteH 24/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Brandon, Naomi Hart
lanky and weak 24/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with John McCune
Apharri 08/Sep/13 Lead β

Hardest of the trio.

with Jim Gayler
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead β
feilx 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Will Benfold
will_benfold 11/Aug/13 2nd dog
cobweb 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Roger Waterworth
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Sent
lanky and weak 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lucy Mitchell
MikeLeeds 04/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Neil Redgrave
danny33 ?/May/13 Lead
jacobjacob 22/Sep/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
GeoffG 04/Sep/12 Lead rpt

love it! just the best.

with tim lowe
nai 21/Jul/12 Lead β

having previously done the start as a boulder problem, onsight thereafter

with Luke
petegunn 12/Jul/12 Lead

A superb route. Good moves and gear

with Davina
Hidden 12/Jul/12 2nd dog
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead β
Dave Warburton 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Far better than i thought it would be. Did this one first.

with Conor
akhughes 10/Jun/12 Lead β
robertmichaeladams 02/Jun/12 Lead
with Andy H
a_hein 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
design crisis 21/May/12 2nd
with Phil
barni 16/Mar/12 Lead dog
with Tapper
uptown 28/Feb/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Bloody hard start. Got pretty pumped above & ran out of cams to protect the top. Fun.

pipof747 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S


gforce 20/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Didn't think I would be able to get off the ground but somehow made it first go - surely this is 6b though?

with Dave O
Peter Holder 09/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
Jack Geldard - Consulting Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Steve Crowe ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
thebigfriendlymoose ??/2011 Lead rpt
with Martin Wood
simon kimber 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Tez29 24/May/10 Lead RP

Superb grit route, blew the onsight, but got the next day first go. Bouldery section is excellent.

with Ivan
Jack00 14/May/10 Lead

Done the start as a boulder problem previously.

with Rob
Hidden 27/Apr/10 2nd dog
markalmack 18/Apr/10 Lead RP

wussed out below the 2nd crux, and sat on the rope. should have been onsight. all moves went first go.

Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd dog
Hidden 18/Apr/10 2nd RP
reg_measures 19/Aug/09 Lead β
with timmy elson
Marti999 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with AJ
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
kingholmesy ??/2009 Lead O/S
with SteveOc
JulesV ??/2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn ?/Sep/08 -
jadm2 29/May/08 TR dnf
with Dave
Jon Read 03/May/08 2nd
with Pete Harris
Boy ??/2008 -
ali_robb ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Alex
WB 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S

managed to damage my knee cartilage half way up. ow

with Jim
Gus 01/Jun/06 Lead RP
pezzerrr 12/May/04 Lead G/U
ellie macpherson 15/Oct/03 TR

really hard at 2nd crux

lx ?/Mar/03 Lead
shoulders ??/2002 TR
jhardwick ??/2000 2nd
GeoffG 28/Mar/99 Lead
Mike Owen 13/May/98 -
with Mark Hounsley
Rich Kirby 12/May/98 2nd rpt
Jon Read ?/May/98 Lead O/S
with Tanya Holdsworth
jameshiggins ??/1998 -
sadams 25/Oct/97 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Hidden 21/Sep/97 Lead rpt
Chris Reid ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
Hidden ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
John Southworth 08/May/96 Lead O/S
with Matt Booth
Dave Musgrove 04/Apr/96 2nd rpt

Nigel led

with Andy Kassyk, Andy Wild, Nigel Baker
leathers ??/1995 2nd
with Julian Simmons
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
rob.grafton ??/1995 2nd
with barry maybank
keefe ??/1995 -
innes ?/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden 13/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 01/May/94 -

Super day. Ten classics including this with David and his EUMC mates.

with David
jfletcher 17/Sep/93 Solo
Dave Musgrove 30/Aug/93 2nd
with Nigel Baker
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead
Dave Musgrove 09/Sep/92 -
with Nigel Baker
andybirtwistle 12/Jul/92 Lead
with Steve Brewis
Rich Kirby 03/Jun/92 Lead O/S
Roget 12/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Jonathan T
Hidden 08/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 29/Jul/91 Lead
with Nigel Baker
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28/May/91 Lead
craig h 22/Mar/90 Lead O/S
with Mike Smith
Hidden ??/1990 -
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with .
Hidden 09/May/89 Lead
Bob 23/Mar/89 2nd O/S

A cold and windy day. The crux is the boulder problem start.

with Andy Perkins
redjerry ?/Mar/88 Lead O/S
with Murray Hamilton
Hidden ??/1988 Lead O/S
ukb shark 01/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Graeme Telfer
Bruce Kerr 30/Aug/87 Lead
with Murray Hamilton
uphillnow ??/1987 Lead

Didnt like the look of the polished starting moves so abseiled down, put runner in flutted crack and led (in effect top roped the start and continued to lead through crux and above. Nowadays I guess I would place a bouldering mat to solve the problem

William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
John Marsland 13/Sep/86 2nd
with Eduardo Martinez
Eduardo Martinez 13/Sep/86 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb ??/1986 Lead O/S
DPaul 13/Aug/83 Lead O/S
with s.brown
Hidden ??/1982 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 12/Sep/81 Lead β

Paul had just led All Quiet and left his gear in place at the break. I wasn't pure enough to insist it was removed before my ascent!

with Andy Bowman, Paul Dawson
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/81 Lead

OK - I top-roped it first!

with Willie Jeffrey
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 28
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set