Derbyshire > Gardoms Edge >
 
Biven's Crack** HVS 5b

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The long slanting crack is stormed on solid jams to its end and a swinging escape out right (once it was aided on fat wooden wedges). A great pitch and worth seeking out - it's just a pity it doesn't go all the way to the cliff top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, The Froggatt to Black Rocks into E2 smile list.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 61 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Team ascent. Brilliant choice for cam testing on a sweaty midgey day. Stam Veins after four feet...
clairejane - Lead dog - Jun/14 with Tessa Teapot

Totally desperate. I was utterly spanked by it, super pumpy.
James Oswald - Lead dog - 17/May/14 with John Bramwell

bwestwood - 2nd - 05/May/14

pie_eater_pete - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/14

AshBash - Lead dnf - 13/Apr/14

switch - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

riddle - Lead dog - 12/Apr/14 with Tom Elliot

mike mo - 2014

Massive holds. Good job coz it's pretty steep!
sgl0jd - 17/Nov/13

harder than it looks. good holds up to the sloping ledge traverse, but slightly overhung and right-trending, so getting pitched off the whole time.
farkas.time - Lead dog - 01/Sep/13 with Andy Burgess

Hidden - 2nd dog - 02/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Jun/13

Fran S8 - Lead - 28/Apr/13 with john nightingale

Really pumpy, sustained. Maybe it was at the end of a long day, but I felt this deserves E1 5c.
dr_botnik - 2nd dnf - 06/Mar/13 with deacon

HVS haha? If you can climb this clean you're more than ready to get stuck into some E2's. really shows how far the grade of HVS can go and must be one of the hardest on grit.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead - 26/Oct/12

clmbr - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/12 with mr g walters

Hidden - Lead - 06/Oct/12

Matt JM Stevens - 2nd - 06/Oct/12

Ahab - Lead dog - 05/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/12

wouldnt have liked to lead, every move felt realy hard, e1 5c i reacon
timmyhobby - 2nd - 29/Jan/12 with Tony

Friend placed most of the gear and pumped out... i lead it 'new school trad' on his gear...
andrew hammond - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with jack adams

Hard. Very hard. Someone was having a laugh grading this HVS, no?
Calder - 2nd - 02/Sep/11 with Mike B

RalphC - TR dog - 30/Jul/11 with Ali

Pumpy, took before committing to the traverse, easier to stay low on it.
allyrocke - Lead dog - 23/Apr/11 with Liam Ingram

Excellent but E1 for sure!
Liam Ingram - 2nd - 23/Apr/11 with Ally Rocke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 09/Apr/11 with loundsy

chrisbussell - 2nd - 05/Apr/11 with Tim O'Neill

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 16/Sep/10

BrettB - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with tomas

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jun/10

well almost...dropped on to rope on the last move.
Jim Slater - 2nd dog - 03/Jun/10 with Graeme, Steve C

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 03/Jun/10 with Steve, Jim

Brian Rodgers - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/10 with Simon Pape

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 21/Apr/10

Pown - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/10

Looking down from the top the amount of overhang looks massive, no wonder this is the biggest pumpfest of your life EVER!!! I only JUST made the traverse to easy ground. Probably the hardest HVS i've done in the peak (felt E1 as per new BMC guide). If you're into this kind of thing its worth 2 stars if you're not you probably fell off or pumped out. Walked up to belay from the top of the buttress to protect the 2nd on the traverse.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Charles

stuart34 - 2nd dog - 28/Mar/10 with James Monypenny

cem - 2nd - 28/Mar/10 with Graeme Hammond

simonp - Lead O/S - Mar/10 with Jake Morgan

nickcanute - 2010

Had an absolute epic on this climb. The steepness really killed me. I guess I've always been used to having most of my weight on my legs whilst placing gear so I can do it in a more relaxed way. Near the top I threw a nut in above my head and gave it a good tug so I thought it was stuck but when I fell on it, it slid down the crack and ended up camming in the most unlikely way possible, some how it held as I was lowered down. Afterwards Alan lead it and just tapped the nut and it fell out. Scary stuff. I'm glad everyone seems to think this is hard for HVS as I was starting to think I wasn't ready for HVS yet.
matthewjames - Lead dnf - 26/Sep/09 with Rob

I found seconding this even harder than the lead, although much less scary. I felt too knackered to try the traverse since a fall there would've been even worse than on lead as I'd have slammed into the wall on the right.
matthewjames - 2nd dnf - 26/Sep/09 with Alan Saul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09

Very hard HVS!
Kyuzo - May/09

stephenhartley - 2nd - 2009 with nickmattia

Hidden - Lead - 11/Oct/08

Andrew Sloan - Lead dog - 10/Aug/08

More like a seige than climb. Extremely steep, an unrelenting battle. This certainly takes the title hardest HVS in the Peak. Swapped leads half way up.
Jim Slater - Lead dnf - 26/Jul/08 with Tim Pearson

Very very pumpy!
Ropeboy - Lead - 23/Apr/08

Hardest HVS ever!! I've felt less exhausted at the top of E4's!
alaan - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Grant

Intended to do perfect day, hands became frozen in seconds, but following a pig-headed debate over how my hands would be fine and wouldnt get cold i had no choice but to remain on the wall somehow. Finally finished the route after almost removing the chock, and got my first taste of chill-vains.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/07 with Thomas Martin

malc - 2nd dnf - 28/Apr/07 with Paul S

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/02

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 10/Dec/93 with Simon Coles

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/91

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, WhipperSnapper, Hidden, RobScarisbrick, Hidden, papalazarou, Hidden, Hidden, moberg, PanzerHanzler, jeffsheard

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard E10 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E119 of 23
hard HVS2 of 23
HVS2 of 23
easy HVS0 of 23
hard VS0 of 23
VS0 of 23
easy VS0 of 23
hard 5c0 of 21
5c0 of 21
easy 5c8 of 21
hard 5b7 of 21
5b4 of 21
easy 5b2 of 21
hard 5a0 of 21
5a0 of 21
easy 5a0 of 21
3 Stars0 of 16
2 Stars13 of 16
1 Star3 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead34 of 61 (55.7%)
Followed21 of 61 (34.4%)
Toproped1 of 61 (1.6%)
Unknown5 of 61 (8.2%)

'Climbed'22 of 61 (36.1%)
clean O/S18 of 61 (29.5%)
clean rpt1 of 61 (1.6%)
dogged12 of 61 (19.7%)
dnf8 of 61 (13.1%)