Rockfax Description
The long slanting crack is stormed on solid jams and jugs (once aided on wood wedges) to its end and a swinging escape right. A great pitch, worth seeking out. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, The Froggatt to Black Rocks into E2 smile list.

xiangoh 19/Sep Lead O/S
bigdrew 30/May Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
ben.phillips 18/Apr 2nd dog
dannyboy83 25/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart
cem 19/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Kirill 19/Oct/14 Lead dog

Got too pumped to be able to do the traverse. What I need is some kind of endurance training.

babymoac 19/Oct/14 2nd

ran out of steam on traverse at the end!

benkelsey 30/Sep/14 Lead dnf

"climb this one fast ben" - top advice from Nick. on the route for about half an hour - stamina deamon.. then too pumped to move. not a good warm up. abbed for gear

Senna 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
MatthewH 07/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Absolutely nails. Fell off the traverse twice and couldn't even dog it I was so pumped.

with Ben
Nick1812P 09/Aug/14 Solo O/S
clairejane ?/Jun/14 Lead dog

Team ascent. Brilliant choice for cam testing on a sweaty midgey day. Stam Veins after four feet...

with Tessa Teapot
James Oswald 17/May/14 Lead dog

Totally desperate. I was utterly spanked by it, super pumpy.

with John Bramwell
bwestwood 05/May/14 2nd
pie_eater_pete 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
AshBash 13/Apr/14 Lead dnf
switch 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
riddle 12/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Tom Elliot
mike mo ??/2014 -
sgl0jd 17/Nov/13 -

Massive holds. Good job coz it's pretty steep!

farkas.time 01/Sep/13 Lead dog

harder than it looks. good holds up to the sloping ledge traverse, but slightly overhung and right-trending, so getting pitched off the whole time.

with Andy Burgess
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead dog
Fran S8 28/Apr/13 Lead
dr_botnik 06/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Really pumpy, sustained. Maybe it was at the end of a long day, but I felt this deserves E1 5c.

with deacon
deacondeacon 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S

HVS haha? If you can climb this clean you're more than ready to get stuck into some E2's. really shows how far the grade of HVS can go and must be one of the hardest on grit.

Hidden 26/Oct/12 Lead
clmbr 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with mr g walters
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead
Matt JM Stevens 06/Oct/12 2nd
Ahab 05/Aug/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dnf
timmyhobby 29/Jan/12 2nd

wouldnt have liked to lead, every move felt realy hard, e1 5c i reacon

with Tony
andrew hammond 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Friend placed most of the gear and pumped out... i lead it 'new school trad' on his gear...

Calder 02/Sep/11 2nd

Hard. Very hard. Someone was having a laugh grading this HVS, no?

with Mike B
RalphC 30/Jul/11 TR dog
with Ali
allyrocke 23/Apr/11 Lead dog

Pumpy, took before committing to the traverse, easier to stay low on it.

Liam Ingram 23/Apr/11 2nd

Excellent but E1 for sure!

Hidden 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 09/Apr/11 2nd
with loundsy
chrisbussell 05/Apr/11 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead
BrettB 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with tomas
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 03/Jun/10 2nd dog

well almost...dropped on to rope on the last move.

Graeme Hammond 03/Jun/10 2nd rpt
with Steve, Jim
Brian Rodgers 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd dnf
Pown 13/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Looking down from the top the amount of overhang looks massive, no wonder this is the biggest pumpfest of your life EVER!!! I only JUST made the traverse to easy ground. Probably the hardest HVS i've done in the peak (felt E1 as per new BMC guide). If you're into this kind of thing its worth 2 stars if you're not you probably fell off or pumped out. Walked up to belay from the top of the buttress to protect the 2nd on the traverse.

with Charles
stuart34 28/Mar/10 2nd dog
with James Monypenny
cem 28/Mar/10 2nd
simonp ?/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Jake Morgan
nickcanute ??/2010 -
matthewjames 26/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Had an absolute epic on this climb. The steepness really killed me. I guess I've always been used to having most of my weight on my legs whilst placing gear so I can do it in a more relaxed way. Near the top I threw a nut in above my head and gave it a good tug so I thought it was stuck but when I fell on it, it slid down the crack and ended up camming in the most unlikely way possible, some how it held as I was lowered down. Afterwards Alan lead it and just tapped the nut and it fell out. Scary stuff. I'm glad everyone seems to think this is hard for HVS as I was starting to think I wasn't ready for HVS yet.

with Rob
matthewjames 26/Sep/09 2nd dnf

I found seconding this even harder than the lead, although much less scary. I felt too knackered to try the traverse since a fall there would've been even worse than on lead as I'd have slammed into the wall on the right.

Hidden 24/May/09 2nd O/S
Kyuzo ?/May/09 -

Very hard HVS!

stephenhartley ??/2009 2nd
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead
Andrew Sloan 10/Aug/08 Lead dog
Jim Slater 26/Jul/08 Lead dnf

More like a seige than climb. Extremely steep, an unrelenting battle. This certainly takes the title hardest HVS in the Peak. Swapped leads half way up.

with Tim Pearson
Ropeboy 23/Apr/08 Lead

Very very pumpy!

alaan 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

Hardest HVS ever!! I've felt less exhausted at the top of E4's!

with Grant
Alex Mason 30/Dec/07 Lead O/S

Intended to do perfect day, hands became frozen in seconds, but following a pig-headed debate over how my hands would be fine and wouldnt get cold i had no choice but to remain on the wall somehow. Finally finished the route after almost removing the chock, and got my first taste of chill-vains.

malc 28/Apr/07 2nd dnf
with Paul S
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/02 Lead
Roget 05/Jul/95 Lead O/S
with jon
goi.ashmore 10/Dec/93 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
charlesmfrench 12/Aug/91 Lead O/S
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, DanChad, hthom, mapperley samurai, Hidden, WhipperSnapper, RobScarisbrick, Hidden, papalazarou, Hidden, Hidden, moberg, PanzerHanzler, AsleepOnBelay
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 26
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Not Set
Not Set