Rockfax Description
The modern route up the buttress. Start at a rib leading up the left-hand side of the face beneath Birch Tree Terrace.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the rib (bold) to Birch Tree Terrace. Belay beneath a steep groove.
2) 5b, 50m. Climb onto the slab via a block on the right. Climb straight up to reach a belay in some quartzy niches.
3) 5a, 25m. An overhanging groove leads to easier climbing. Follow the grain of the cliff to belay at the base of a corner/groove.
4) 35m. Climb past the groove on its left and belay at the prominent square block.
5) 5b, 35m. weave your way up the wall above, trending into the left-hand groove. Follow it for around 18m to a grassy ledge with a large block. Mount the block and climb the wall behind to the base of Terminal Arete.
7) and 8) 120m. Follow Terminal Arete (D) to the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, MIA logbook must haves!, The Road to Shibboleth.

Hidden 16/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jul 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 10/Jul Lead O/S

Brilliant route, adventure trad at its best. I wasn't expecting much gear but there was even less than I was expecting. P1 had pretty much no gear but the climbing was easy. pitch 2 was alarmingly runout up rock which was a bit questionable, gear every 13m or so... (Enjoyable pitch in hindsight). Leaving the belay on P3 was enjoyable before the scramble up to the final pitch. pitch 5 was brilliant and well protected climbing, with a tough final sequence.

wi11 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P5. Loose and dirty but worth doing

with Tamsin
James Oswald 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Good route, big and adventurous feeling. First pitch was v easy but quite bold. Though there are quite a few small spikes. The final pitch before terminal arete was the hardest, though not too difficult. Possibly HVS? Moved together on terminal arete, ace.. Good route, quite adventurous but never hard. HVS/ soft e1 maybe?

with Kiwi Dave
ben8522 ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 -
roberto18 28/May/12 Lead O/S

Great route

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
rustaldo 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead all the 5a and 5b pitches. wasn't sure what to expect, P1 was quite bold but not too hard, P2 was a bit of a deathtrap, quite a bit of loose rock and quite runout, definitely the crux pitch, P3 has some nice moves leaving the belay pulling through "the eaves" on quartz holds, P4 is a scramble, P5 is soft for 5b and has loads of gear. overall the climb is pretty loose in places especially P2 and P5, some scarily big chunks wobble. finished up terminal arete.

with Alex
Hidden 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
ian d f 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Very little gear on p1

pearson9596 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
pearson9596 ??/2011 2nd O/S
jparry75 ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with m.evans
going going gone ?/May/10 Lead β

long, long day.

dickie01 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

P3...Remember to clean your feet, I almost fell because the clumps of grass were wet going back onto Welsh Rock. Great climb!! P5 felt like the crux pitch although the long second pitch was quite run out! got to lead the whole climb though and topped out via Terminal Arete.

with Nick Briggs
mzchambers 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

got a did lost at the top but made it there in the end.

with Joe
Somerset swede basher 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Dan Wicks
Hidden 20/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Mar/07 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, i.fish2000, andycash, hfisher, ianstevens, Hidden, Hidden, Stuart_Burbidge, tlmarjot, Hidden, rustaldo, Rich Kay, Hidden
High E2
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High HVS
Votes cast 5
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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