UKC

40m. This route is found just right of the towering pillar taken by Die Hard and 5 metres left of the boulder choked back wall.
It climbs a dark coloured groove and then white wall above it.
A bold approach is needed and a selection of larger cams will be useful.

Start as for Die Hard, for two metres then break up diagonally right into the steep black groove. Follow this for 10 metres, wide bridging, till is possible and desirable to make a dynamic move up right to gain a fine horizontal crack on the top wall.
This wall is climbed using it’s left hand edge and wide spaced breaks to the top (good cams).
Now up the slope left past a redundant concrete drainage pipe to
Belay on nuts 20 metres back on the upper cliff.

Note: A 20 metre rope preplaced to the top of the climb from the belay point above will protect the steep grass finishing slopes above the climb, run it down just to the seaward side of the large concrete pipe for maximum effect, a useful guide as the slope is convex at this point so it will be impossible to see the top of the climb from above.

R Neath, T Crichton 02/Sep/2022.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

There are no ascents logged for this climb.

Guidebooks for Lydstep Cavern Bay

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Route of Interest
Magic Flute

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Penally West)

Loading Notifications...