Rockfax Description
III, 200m, 2 - 3 hours. A great route with stunning exposure but make sure you catch it in the right conditions.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, head north to pass under the northwest toe of the Aiguilles Marbrées. Turn north-east and climb gently to pass between Pte. 3516 and Pte. 3537 before turning north to reach a short snow couloir dropping down from the rib which leads to the Salle à Manger. Reaching the foot of this couloir takes around 90 minutes from the Helbronner lift.
In good snow conditions, and with no one above, you can climb the couloir itself but it is safer and only marginally more technical to climb broken rock to the left. Either option brings you to a small col with a rib on the right that leads you to the Salle à Manger. Climb the rib via the line of least resistance, which will depend on snow cover and conditions but is usually on or just left of the crest. Where the crest gets steeper and more solid, near the foot of the Dent, move left and climb up to the ridge just to the right of the Salle à Manger - a flat spot just below the crest of the Rochefort Arête.
1) From the Salle à Manger, follow the snow ridge on, or just below, the crest all the way to Point 3933m. The exact route taken will depend on conditions but regardless of the snow quality, be aware of potential cornices, particularly when crossing the photogenic serac.
2) Make a 30m abseil from a fixed anchor down to a wide shoulder, or downclimb a 50 degree snow slope.
3) Follow the ridge crest to the initial rocky section and go round it on the right-hand side of the ridge. Rejoin the crest and climb to the foot of the final summit buttress.
4) 4a. Start up the buttress steeply at first, just to the right of the ridge crest before climbing a ramp which leads leftwards into the centre of the face. Come back left to a steep gully which leads (via some pretty chossy and bold-feeling climbing, 4a ) to the summit ridge, just below the top itself.
Descent - Return via the same route. The final summit buttress can be abseiled but the rock is loose, meaning that the anchors aren't what they might be. It is easy to pull rocks off so downclimbing is a better option if possible. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The normal route and often traversed prior to an ascent of Dent du Geant, which can easily be include on the return journey. The ridge is an elegant, exposed, corniced snow crest and is extremely popular. 4-5hr from hut.

Fontaine, Ravanel + Simms 17/Jul/1900

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif.


ClimberDateStyle
jeb3496 ??/2015 -
steve_gibbs 12/Sep/14 Solo O/S
with Pete Leeming
Pete23 28/Aug/14 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
McGuinness 22/Aug/14 -
with George
Tom Campbell 22/Aug/14 -
Roberttaylor 21/Aug/14 Solo

Three 20m abseils and some downclimbing from the summit. Very windy and cold. 5 hours hut to hut.

mussonlr 08/Aug/14 -
with Steve King
andy_e 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gallimore
David Barratt ?/Jul/14 AltLd
with owenf
Hidden 26/Jun/14 Solo
johnrich 20/Jun/14 -
paulmck 11/Jun/14 -
Piers Harley ??/2014 AltLd
with Ewan Whitmey
Hidden ??/2014 -
MrRiley 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Mind-blowing! Fantastic conditions and weather! The slog up and down to/from the salle a manger goes on a bit

with Mark Reid
david0811 04/Sep/13 AltLd
with debbie, Locky
Debbie Lee 04/Sep/13 -
with Lachy, Dave Marshall
guy757 26/Aug/13 -
with Vic
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/13 -
prwalker 10/Aug/13 -
with wupert
Slick 11/Jul/13 -
Egons Issy 11/Jul/13 -
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
kelly_426 ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
jonnie3430 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Carol
Carol Goodall 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lovely ridge, narrow in places but straightforward. Weather clear and bright.

James_L88 16/Jul/12 -

Followed by Dent du Geant in a long day.

with Badger
gravity 16/Jul/12 AltLd

Amazing route! The knife edge snow arete and cornice were pristine (we were first ones there in morning after snowy, windy night) and the route had incredible exposure.

with Jerome Para
Finn Curry 04/Jul/12 2nd
with Paul Warnock
industrialiceman 27/Jun/12 -
Hidden 23/Jun/12 -
Hidden 22/Aug/11 -
tomtom89 17/Aug/11 -
with Jack
jac00 17/Aug/11 -
with Tom
Elsier 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Moved together, beautiful ridge climb

with Amy
r_findlay 11/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd
Poco Loco 01/Aug/11 AltLd

Perfect conditions this morning, wow.

BALD EAGLE 01/Aug/11 AltLd
with J.Pomeroy
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
mickd ?/Aug/11 AltLd

A good day out. good condt's

Batt 30/Jul/11 -

Moving together with Mark P ad Cath J. Perfect conditions

Hoyes 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

From the Torino hut, with good snow and good weather. Also with Mark and Catherine.

edmund94 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Moved together. Had to assist some Austrians who sent us the wrong way on the ascent and then didn't have sufficient rope for the Ab descent. Then went on to Dent du Geant.

georgec 11/Jul/11 AltLd
with Sandra Kennedy
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/10 AltLd
stuart34 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Moved together

with Kim Ladiges
Hidden 20/Aug/10 -
mark-abz 07/Aug/10 -
with Alex
Hidden ?/Aug/10 -
jandyd05 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Anthony
Jonny M 14/Jul/10 Lead dnf
GiveHerHelen 14/Jul/10 2nd dnf
Cardi 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mike Wild
Clay C 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark
mark_chal 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Em66 16/Jul/09 -
with Mat
Hidden 03/Aug/08 AltLd
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Dave Chapman, Phil Emmott
Hidden 09/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
drysori ??/2007 -
with Luke
Hidden 11/Jul/06 2nd
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Floris
nickdonohue ?/Jul/06 -
with Jeff Ingman
jam_rich ?/Aug/05 -
MoWalker3 01/Aug/04 -
with Dave
andyinglis ?/Jul/04 -

Terrific, and combined with Dent de Geant. Also done in August on the way to Canzio bivi hut.

with Tom Dunstan, Neil Adams, ross barnes
Neil Adams ?/Jul/04 -
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
Hidden 03/Aug/03 -
Hidden 29/Aug/02 -
joe king ?/Jun/02 -
tim_mcd ??/2002 -
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/97 -

From west to summit then bailed down NNE slope as too many people ahead of us to fit in the hut before the Grandes Jorases.

with Jon Scorer
Richard Weller 19/Aug/93 -
with Simon Currin
ill_bill ?/Jul/86 -

With Loul

John Marsland ?/Aug/83 -
with Winky
Bolt Phobia ?/Jul/78 AltLd
with Nicole, Kit Spencer
granitbahn ?/Jul/75 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tony Ryland, philmitch, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, pugilistswine, Hidden, buffalo606, cmars89, wiibaker, RyanOsborne, Hidden, Hidden, Adamski1986, Hidden, goose299, neil45th, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Chris Ridgers, Hidden, Hidden, The Mountain Goat, ckmoffat, Superchop75, Tom Hutton, Watty, robdan, punj
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