Tissi* VI-
[Andy Taylor on one of the harder pitches of Tissi route, 1st Sella Tower. UIAA 6, 4 kb]180m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic route combining face, crack and corner climbing. Unfortunately suffering a little from its popularity, the rock is polished in places. Most parties exit right after the fifth pitch to join the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, but there is now a direct finish which follows the short upper arete.
Start on the right of the left pillar, just below and right of a large corner.
1) VI-, 40m. Ascend the grey rocks at the base then move left on a ledge below the large corner. Follow this, which narrows to form a tight chimney (rucksack wearers beware!). Trend slightly left to reach a stance below a yellow corner-crack.
2) IV-, 20m. Move left of the yellow crack to a black crack running parallel, and climb this. At half height, ignore pegs above and traverse back right into the yellow crack and follow this to a stance below a gully.
3) V+, 20m. Step left and climb a corner-crack, then follow a yellow flake left to avoid a bulge. Climb direct to a stance on a detached block.
4) III, 30m. Climb the vegetated rock above direct (alternatively move right and climb a corner - harder at IV+) then follow a technical crack to reach a ledge. Follow this right.
5) V+, 40m. Climb direct to a niche and move right from this. Follow moves up the pocketed face up and left to reach a black crack (possible belay in case of rope drag). Climb the crack direct, pull through a bulge and continue to reach easy-angled rock leading right.
Exit right and follow a ledge, with an intermediate stance shared with Icterus, to join the final pitch of the Schober/Kleisl (Rossi) route, or alternatively continue as below:
Direct Finish
6) VI, 40m. Follow pitch 5 to the ledge then traverse left and climb a steep face direct. Move left to reach an arete, and climb this trending right on ever easier ground to exit onto the ledge below the summit. © ROCKFAX


Tissi 1936

Photo: Andy Taylor on one of the harder pitches of Tissi route, 1st Sella Tower. UIAA 6 © ajtay
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 26/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/14

Good to get another long route in. Chimney was fun though I couldn't get a foot to stick on the polish and so had to pull through on the tat. P2 is awesome laybacking, looks scary but jugs everywhere. Same on either 3 or 4. Fell again when we went off route as holds were soaked and committed to the wrong one.
Maddie - 2nd dog - 02/Aug/14 with remus

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/13

Led P1, P3, P5, P7. Superb climbing on all pitches. Got a bit lost on the descent, which made it slightly more exciting than we expected.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Stevo

lead even pitches, first VI-. A Good route and fairly well protected. The polish on pitch 1 does make it a bit less secure but not a huge amount so if you get in the crack at the first opportunity. Pitch 2 the polish is less of a problem but still an issue. After that its fine. Pitch 5 is very very good.
CurlyStevo - AltLd - Aug/13 with Kirill S

Lenny - AltLd O/S - Jul/13 with Phil .N

Hidden - 01/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/12

Varied and sustained.
John Nuttall - AltLd - 14/Jul/12 with Andy H

Good
whistler - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/12 with Mark Littlewood

Horrible chimneys, not a great route, but worthwhile.
drysori - AltLd - 05/Jul/12 with Sam Burns

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11

roberts1234567890 - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/11 with Josh Legg

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jun/11

Em66 - AltLd - Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Seconded the even pitches which were hard work with a bulky sack. Great route though with an easy ab back down.
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with SteveyM

SteveMyatt - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Mark Fairbank

really nice top section but the bottom is rank and polished
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10 with henward

tatz45 - AltLd - Aug/08 with Katy Vose

paul79 - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Nicos - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/07 with rich howels

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/07

Led odd numbered pitches. 3 hours
cem - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/05 with Dave Amos

chris wyatt - 2005 with Mike Barclay

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/03

John HW - AltLd O/S - May/02 with Stuart Mackenzie

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/00 with JThomas

tjekel - 1993

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/91

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 26/Jun/79 with Wawa

Voting
Total votes cast 8
hard VI0 of 1
VI0 of 1
easy VI0 of 1
hard VI-1 of 1
VI-0 of 1
easy VI-0 of 1
hard V+0 of 1
V+0 of 1
easy V+0 of 1
3 Stars2 of 3
2 Stars1 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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