Rockfax Description
Big Micheluzzi's little brother, this route is a superb climb with varied and enjoyable pitches and a fantastic traverse on sculpted holds at half-height. A classic of the face.
Start 10m left of the gully which splits the face, at the base of an easy ramp leading right.
1) III, 30m. Follow the series of ledges right (beware of seepage).
2) II, 15m. Continue right to a stance at the base of a chimney.
3) III+, 25m. Climb the chimney then move right to a vegetated clearing. Move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4) II, 50m. Continue leftwards up a blocky and somewhat loose ramp, passing below a large crack to a stance on a good ledge.
5) III, 25m. Climb a narrow chimney before moving left over ledges. Move right again to a stance below a large grassy ramp on the left.
6) V-, 45. Ignore the grassy ramp and instead climb direct to a belay ring then traverse right on good holds. Continue more direct, still on excellent rock with plenty of gear before following the logical traverse right to a yellow niche. Belay on the right side of the cave. An excellent pitch.
7) IV, 30m. Exit the cave on the right, following the red arrow which points around the corner. Route finding becomes slightly harder here but follow the worn holds direct, then right for a few metres, before climbing direct again to another yellow cave (possible stance). Pass this and move left to the belay.
8) IV, 35m. Step left from the stance and move left to a series of chimney-cracks. Climb the middle of the three (although all three variants are possible) on good holds to reach the terraces below the Chamois Terrace. Belay in a small cave. © Rockfax

Micheluzzi, Rogers, Slocovich 14 Aug 1928

james1978 22/Sep AltLd O/S
trwolfe13 16/Sep AltLd O/S

Accidentally did the first pitch of Via Irma, then did two pitches of scrambling to get to the fourth pitch. Drastically missed the descent route and took a 10 pitch abseil down a long gully through caves and grottos.

cameron_hall 16/Sep AltLd

The way up was fun, but we made a mess of the descent. Started up first pitch of Via Irma (lead) and then traversed across to Little Micheluzzi. I think I then led Ps 3,5,6,7,8, but I'm not quite sure I remember correctly.

TomGB 03/Aug AltLd O/S

first 5 pitches ok, last 3 really nice. I led the last two.

with Vicki Cox, Stewart Moody
Hidden 03/Aug 2nd
Jim Slater 19/Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul AltLd O/S
tonevert 09/Jul AltLd O/S
with Gavin
Gavdee1 09/Jul AltLd
with Tony Johnson
cpforbes ?/Jul AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 30/May 2nd O/S
with Antonio Bonet
Mike Hood 03/Oct/14 AltLd
with Alex
Alex Munnery ?/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden 23/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Robin Brooke ?/Aug/13 Lead

Great quick approach, fun climbing with some airy positions for the grade, the penultimate pitch following crack and chimney has only the one piton i could find so don't worry your off route just bring some pro. Led p1,3,5,7

Pryan ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Hidden 29/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
budchawla 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Some occasional light rain, nothing to worry about - except for the last pitch which was full-on drenched. Gripping finish to an awesome route. First 4 pitches are dead easy, the next 4 offer excellent exposed, juggy climbing. Great route!

Jonathan Emett 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

lead 2,4,5,6,7, 4.5 hours on route.

with ben
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Marq 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
benscarter ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Kaori Carter, Simon Forman
jezb1 24/Jul/12 AltLd

Very good route. Straight forward climbing on monster holds in great positions. Lead the best pitch which was the exit from the niche. Spicy walk across the top to get out!

The Ivanator 24/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

The three steep pitches after the initial rambly stuff are really good, super juggy wall climbing in a fantastic setting. RH start.

with Jez
Mike-W-99 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Minor epic after managing to start up Via Irma and doing a scary 50m abseil off of a rusty mallion. Route itself fine with the germans in front holding everyone up by belaying in strange places.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 12/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Very nice route with some good climbing particularly the last few pitches. If there are parties above you then stay well in the cave at the top of pitch 7 so as to avoid any stones that might get knocked down from the belay directly above. We initially started up Via Irma by mistake but in our defence both have 3 cracks at the start! Retreated from Via Irma and went from being first on the crag to last in the queue on the route. At least beng last meant we could get too lost...

with Mike
timofy 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
Suzana 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Greenhill
Em66 ?/Jun/11 2nd
with Mat
AlanLittle ?/Jun/11 AltLd

Only as far as the big terrace

with Thomas Ulber
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
langar27 09/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 09/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
skeight88 ?/Jul/10 2nd
with Ben Alsford
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead
DKaye 28/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic! Scary walk-off to say the least, however!

with Marc Blackband
Rosie Hutchins 28/Jun/10 AltLd

lovely climb excepted for the slight E1 5b variation Chris climbed (slightly sandbagged by me) - the decent was a magnitude scarier than the climb!

with Chris Haynes, Rob Lillywhite
Hidden 28/Jun/10 AltLd
The Bad Cough 11/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Siderunner 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

After the previous day's rain the gully on P1 was disgustingly slimy, wet, and scary. Most other parties started much further to the right, a good idea but not in our guidebook.

with Kirsten
Hidden 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Luca Prinoth
JGW ?/Jul/08 -
with Matt Tilley
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
John HW 06/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Great to revisit this climb.

with Gary Mason
Hidden 01/Sep/06 2nd
cem 02/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
with Bryan Rynne
Hidden 28/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
John HW ?/May/02 AltLd O/S

The exposed exist from the little cave had my knees shaking.

with Cath
brianrunner ?/Jul/01 AltLd

a good intro route to the area.

with martina
NickJH ?/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Daniel Wrightson ??/1994 AltLd O/S
with Stefano Cavalieri, Andrea Tafi
tjekel ??/1987 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, brew_guru, Larey, Hidden, Hidden
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Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
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