Little Micheluzzi*** V-
[Jez on Little Micheluzzi, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Big Micheluzzi's little brother, this route is a superb climb with varied and enjoyable pitches and a fantastic traverse on sculpted holds at half-height. A classic of the face.
Start 10m left of the gully which splits the face, at the base of an easy ramp leading right.
1) III, 30m. Follow the series of ledges right (beware of seepage).
2) II, 15m. Continue right to a stance at the base of a chimney.
3) III+, 25m. Climb the chimney then move right to a vegetated clearing. Move left then direct up a series of gravel terraces and move behind a boulder to a ring belay.
4) II, 50m. Continue leftwards up a blocky and somewhat loose ramp, passing below a large crack to a stance on a good ledge.
5) III, 25m. Climb a narrow chimney before moving left over ledges. Move right again to a stance below a large grassy ramp on the left.
6) V-, 45. Ignore the grassy ramp and instead climb direct to a belay ring then traverse right on good holds. Continue more direct, still on excellent rock with plenty of gear before following the logical traverse right to a yellow niche. Belay on the right side of the cave. An excellent pitch.
7) IV, 30m. Exit the cave on the right, following the red arrow which points around the corner. Route finding becomes slightly harder here but follow the worn holds direct, then right for a few metres, before climbing direct again to another yellow cave (possible stance). Pass this and move left to the belay.
8) IV, 35m. Step left from the stance and move left to a series of chimney-cracks. Climb the middle of the three (although all three variants are possible) on good holds to reach the terraces below the Chamois Terrace. Belay in a small cave. © ROCKFAX

Micheluzzi, Rogers, Slocovich 14 Aug 1928

Photo: Jez on Little Micheluzzi © The Ivanator
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This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

james1978 - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/15

Accidentally did the first pitch of Via Irma, then did two pitches of scrambling to get to the fourth pitch. Drastically missed the descent route and took a 10 pitch abseil down a long gully through caves and grottos.
trwolfe13 - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/15 with Cameron Hall

first 5 pitches ok, last 3 really nice. I led the last two.
TomGB - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/15 with Vicki Cox, Stewart Moody

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Aug/15

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with Maia Hunnex

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/15

tonevert - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/15 with Gavin

Gavdee1 - AltLd - 09/Jul/15 with Tony Johnson

cpforbes - AltLd O/S - Jul/15

Alessandro Tentori - 2nd O/S - 30/May/15 with Antonio Bonet

Mike Hood - AltLd - 03/Oct/14 with Alex

Alex Munnery - AltLd O/S - Oct/14 with Mike Hood

jcw - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13

Great quick approach, fun climbing with some airy positions for the grade, the penultimate pitch following crack and chimney has only the one piton i could find so don't worry your off route just bring some pro. Led p1,3,5,7
Robin Brooke - Lead - Aug/13 with Paula Ryan

Pryan - AltLd - Aug/13 with Robin Brooke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/13

Some occasional light rain, nothing to worry about - except for the last pitch which was full-on drenched. Gripping finish to an awesome route. First 4 pitches are dead easy, the next 4 offer excellent exposed, juggy climbing. Great route!
budchawla - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Justin Rennie

lead 2,4,5,6,7, 4.5 hours on route.
Jonathan Emett - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with ben

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/12

Marq - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12 with James Rowe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/12

benscarter - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with Kaori Carter, Simon Forman

Very good route. Straight forward climbing on monster holds in great positions. Lead the best pitch which was the exit from the niche. Spicy walk across the top to get out!
jezb1 - AltLd - 24/Jul/12

The three steep pitches after the initial rambly stuff are really good, super juggy wall climbing in a fantastic setting. RH start.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Jez

Minor epic after managing to start up Via Irma and doing a scary 50m abseil off of a rusty mallion. Route itself fine with the germans in front holding everyone up by belaying in strange places.
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Fiona

Very nice route with some good climbing particularly the last few pitches. If there are parties above you then stay well in the cave at the top of pitch 7 so as to avoid any stones that might get knocked down from the belay directly above. We initially started up Via Irma by mistake but in our defence both have 3 cracks at the start! Retreated from Via Irma and went from being first on the crag to last in the queue on the route. At least beng last meant we could get too lost...
Fiona Reid - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Mike

timofy - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/12

Suzana - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Lucy Greenhill

Em66 - 2nd - Jun/11 with Mat

Only as far as the big terrace
AlanLittle - AltLd - Jun/11 with Thomas Ulber

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

langar27 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/10 with jon harvey

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/10 with James Langridge

skeight88 - 2nd - Jul/10 with Ben Alsford

Hidden - Lead - 29/Jun/10

Fantastic! Scary walk-off to say the least, however!
DKaye - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Marc Blackband

lovely climb excepted for the slight E1 5b variation Chris climbed (slightly sandbagged by me) - the decent was a magnitude scarier than the climb!
Rosie Hutchins - AltLd - 28/Jun/10 with Chris Haynes, Rob Lillywhite

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/10

The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/09 with John Nesbitt

After the previous day's rain the gully on P1 was disgustingly slimy, wet, and scary. Most other parties started much further to the right, a good idea but not in our guidebook.
Siderunner - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Kirsten

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/09

Alessandro Tentori - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Luca Prinoth

JGW - Jul/08 with Matt Tilley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/07

Great to revisit this climb.
John HW - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Gary Mason

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Sep/06

cem - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/05 with Bryan Rynne

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/02

The exposed exist from the little cave had my knees shaking.
John HW - AltLd O/S - May/02 with Cath

a good intro route to the area.
brianrunner - AltLd - Jul/01 with martina

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/00 with JThomas

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Daniel Wrightson - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Stefano Cavalieri, Andrea Tafi

tjekel - 1987

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
brew_guru, Larey

Total votes cast 32
hard V0 of 4
V0 of 4
easy V0 of 4
hard V-0 of 4
V-0 of 4
easy V-0 of 4
hard IV+2 of 4
IV+2 of 4
easy IV+0 of 4
3 Stars7 of 12
2 Stars4 of 12
1 Star1 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S