122m, 6 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

S.W.Herford, G.S.Sansom et al Apr/1914

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, MIA logbook must haves!, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes, FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs.

joermann 13/Oct AltLd

First 2 pitches. abseiled of before it got dark.

philhilo 28/Sep AltLd O/S

Wet in places, cold in places. Original start with Marr variation. Fab day.

with misha
Misha 28/Sep AltLd O/S
with Phil
Dervey 10/Sep Lead O/S
with Rich
Richard Alderton 10/Sep 2nd dog

Cocked up the sequence on the fake and had to have a little sit-down...

with Liam
Jim Brooke 18/Aug 2nd O/S
with Rich
Hidden 18/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Aug 2nd dnf
joe.91 15/Jul Lead O/S

Awesome climb, loved every pitch!

Hidden 15/Jul 2nd
thegoatstroker 12/Jun AltLd

Led 1 & 3 amazing work by matt on flake

with matt fraser
thegoatstroker 12/Jun AltLd

Led 1 & 3 amazing work by matt on flake

with matt fraser
thegoatstroker 12/Jun AltLd

Led 1 & 3 amazing work by matt on flake

with matt fraser
Matt Amos 11/Jun AltLd O/S

Lead 3 and 6. On the great flake it didn't seem obvious where to go, so ended up traversing into the middle of the flake along the hand crack and then straight up.

Danny Crump 11/Jun AltLd
with Matt Amos
Hidden ?/May AltLd
Scooter Young ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/14 AltLd
Ian Jones 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Finally got it albeit by the front face variant. Blown away by the detached flake on pitch 4.

with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O.
LakesWinter 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Superb route, amazing for 1914!

with AD
Hidden 26/Jul/14 2nd
John Pickles 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Liam Ingram 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led from crux onward. Excellent route, found thin crack on top pitch rather hard!

JamieSparkes 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Nick did 1+2 together, Lead great flake pitch and tacked on the stroll across the ledge. Followed topo line in lake district rock up what I think is the second last pitch of the nazgul (direct to thin crack on final pitch) then up the final pitch of Nazgul to finish. Thin crack move is harder than flake pitch.

with Nick Bryan
ClemmieMitchell 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

I lead pitches 1, 2 and 4 and seconded pitches 3, 5 and 6. We led the first two pitches as one and the last two pitches as one because they were all relatively short pitches.

David_Gledson 23/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 1 + 2, and 4. One of the best days put I've had. Climbed the whole route with no top on, and in the sun. A beautiful day and the route is one of the best I have ever done. Amazing!!

with Alan
D.Russell 12/Jul/14 AltLd

Ran pitches 1&2 and 4&5 together

stuart34 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Doug the thug
Teappleby 09/Jul/14 AltLd

Classic for a reason, an amazing route. Led P2,4,6

Calum Wadsworth 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Absolutely bloody brilliant.

with Tom A
Piers Harley 05/Jul/14 AltLd

Finished up the the last 2 pitches of "The Nazgul" due to wet conditions.

with Ewan Whitmey
Hidden 28/Jun/14 2nd
harold walmsley 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led the crux by the left hand variant (my first time since the chock came out) and with a different start than previously so quite a bit of new climbing. Couldn't remember the top pitches anyway so they were a geriatric onsight. Can't believe this is only given 2 stars.

with George Gilmore
bigdrew 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Mark R
mark20 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
gav 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

As described in 2014 FRCC guide (4 pitches starting by edge of Moss Gill) but finishing on last pitch of Nazgul. I lead P1(5a) then Peter took over for crux 5b pitch stepping round the great flake. Had some rope drag issues (care needed with gear behind flake) but got the pitch clean. Didn't quite belay far enough over at the top of pitch 2, so I moved past to set up. This made it easier for Peter to do P3, and I was knackered by this point so he too over and lead to the V-ledge and finished P4 on Nazgul. Great climbing on the flake which felt tough to me, but not really done any 5b before. 4c traverse on pitch 3 awkward and delicate in places. Brilliant route.

scott quinn 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

first route on Scafell. Epic adventure, never hard. Just a bit confusing on front of the flake to many options got a bit lost and had killer rope drag..... thought I extended enough, obviously not!

Tom.Priestley 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Did improved start. Lead P1 and lead P4 and P5 run together. Great flake pitch is quite confusing. Want to try the direct version now!

Peter Metcalfe 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Made a right meal of the crux - got ropes crossed and had to reverse the traverse to reclip a runner... much huffing and puffing ensued. Bold, sustained climbing for several metres until good holds and gear. Rope drag still a problem. Nazgul finish seemed hard for 5a, but we were done in by then. CB bathed in evening sunlight - nice end to the day :-)

with Gavin Whittingham
Lee Sheard 17/May/14 AltLd O/S
with John Hubbard
monkeyman79 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Great route in a great position. Watch out for rope drag on the flake pitch. Nearly stopped me leading it. Top pitch was sopping too.

with Simon Mitchell
Mackinclimb 21/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
joe_lancs 21/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/14 AltLd
john lynch 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

What a day! First route on scafell, done on the route's centenary. A very historical and memorable day.

with dave woods, Tommy, Joe Holden
Tommy Moore 20/Apr/14 2nd O/S

A day that I will remember for a long time, nod to history, what a privilege. Led P1 (4b). John led P2,3,4. Good lead from John in the damp on the crux pitch.

David Woods 20/Apr/14 2nd

What an honour. Climbed on the centenary. Decided to abseil off the second pitch due to rain and ensuing darkness (apparently that is what was done originally). Amazing day. Great leads by Joe Holden and John Lynch.

with Joe Holden
Hidden ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
datoon ??/2014 AltLd O/S
with S
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
petegunn 26/Aug/13 AltLd

An superb outing that weaves its way gently upwards. The route comes alive as you progress up past all the great historic features, The Oval, The Great Flake, Jeffcoat's Ledge, V Ledge. Watched the last rays of sun after topping out, a beautiful clear, still evening :)

with Bill, Davina
wildbill 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
tim exley 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

top pitch was wet, gear is poor stepping onto face of Great Flake, should head straight up after that but went left. Fantastic route

hornbywill 20/Aug/13 Lead O/S
willhornby ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
scott gibson 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

led to flake in 1 pitch. Graeme led flake pitch which was excellent and I then led the top 2 pitches of nazgul in 1 which made for a more direct and sustained route. Brilliant.

with graeme read
maria85 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Done as 4 pitches. Led the flake pitch and the top one. Felt easy for E1, though had rope drag issues on the crux pitch.

with Jules
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Sardien 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led main Pitch. Beautiful but wish I had had micros! Wee bit bold. Rich led two top pitches of Nazgul as one amazing top pitch

StuartCJones 20/Jul/13 2nd β

Awesome climb, took the new line traversing out left from great flake at E1 5b

Clay C 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great route and a very busy day on Scafell. Led pitches 4,5 & 6

with Al, Ross
oliverk 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2, 4 and 6

with Dan
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, 3, 5. Cool route.

Kirill 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P3 (made a complete hash of the ropework on it), P6. Very good!

Olli-C 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Rachel led crux.

LovelyMrTom 13/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 2 together, 4 and 5. Lovely route.

Rachel Somerville 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Cal led the crux 5b pitch.

with Cal
Will Sheaff 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 4b + 4c pitches

with Will Harris
Matt Rowat 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Should have done variation on pitch 4 which would have meant less easy traversing about. Also, last pitch maybe would have been better doing as for nazgul rather than traversing right to wet mossy crack. Awesome day out none the less!

with owen
sgl 06/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
with Bart
Calder 06/Jul/13 2nd


with Mark
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Diggler 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Nice very nice

with Calder
Goose4 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Harry Mcghie
Gudge 10/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

P2, 4 & 6 - great route! Clean onsight apart from the crux pitch as went off route and ended up doing the original route up the Great Flake (E3 5c). Took a wee tumble on this as was greasy!

MikeLell 10/Jun/13 Lead dog

Tackled the offwidth on the Great Flake direct (E3 5c) after a massive rest to de-pump and psych myself up. Amazing long route! Great dry conditions.

Andrew Wilson 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Did flake pitch and top pitch.

Hidden ?/Apr/13 -
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
chrisallan 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Luuuuuke 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Max C
Legs 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S

What an amazing adventure. A proper Lakes classic multi-pitch. I lead the first pitch which was at VS standard ealry on. Luke then lead the rest. The 5b pitch was very exposed, with only crimps to hold and nothing for the feet. To top it all off there was little protection apart from a sling round the corner and a poorly placed cam! The last picth up the massive flakes was superb. An awesome adventure!

mfisher 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 + 4, great effort from Olly taking the crux pitches!

ollyroberts 28/May/12 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,5,6. Awesome route!

with Matty
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
Johann 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Wheeldon
Hidden 21/May/12 Lead
Peter Holder 25/Mar/12 Solo O/S

Rope solo

Hidden ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1,3,5 and JWB did pitches 2,4,6 and 7, you may wonder what pitch 7?this is due to him over shooting the belay point by 12meters.sack that man.haha

cooperman 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Tremendous. Wandering but worthwhile. Though-provoking but never desperate.

with Graham Iles
JWB 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Some great pitches, some not so good. Going onto and up the Great flake was fantastic. Took us 7 hours ............. must climb quicker!

Graham Iles 30/Jul/11 AltLd
DaveAtkinson 13/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Should have clipped the tat on the chockstone straight away before venturing onto the face but by then courage had gone!!! Abseil retreat from the oval off a small chockstone also fun! Need to come back in the evening when the sun gets on the face and with a grade or two in hand.

with Craig Naylor, M.Lawton
Hidden 13/Jul/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
tom144807 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Richard Taylor
Exodus 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Nice. Almost climbed full Great Flake, then reversed!! Think it would be fine though. Tim took descent fall

with Tim
y2keable 01/May/11 AltLd O/S

Need some endurance for this climb, it's long and hard but awesome! It feels fantastic to climb the great flake. I think we started traversing off the flake instead of going straight to the top. It felt serious!

with John
andysroom 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P3 and P6

Steven Andrews 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

led first 2 pitches, enjoyed (retrospectively) seconding the crux pitch, didn't enjoy seconding the sketchy offbalance traverse of teh fourth pitch and chickend out of what was afterall an easy final pitch. Great climb, character all the way and superb position. Bloody cold though.

with Andy Parsons, Kane
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 2nd
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Dave Webster
Hidden ??/2011 -
Dave Rumney 04/Sep/10 -
Dave Rumney ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with Tanya Milner
tim newton 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
darlolad 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/10 AltLd
Guy Wilson 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

With the 'Byron Buck Alternative' piano playing traverse across the flake. Numb Fingers. Good climb

with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Led P3 and P5. Great flake pitch was great, although accidentally did a different line when out on the face as I didn't know I was meant to go straight up. Still felt about right at the grade though.

jonny taylor 31/May/10 AltLd O/S

A great route. Lower pitches were wet, but great climbing higher up. Took a while to find the right line onto the flake, but once on it the crimpy face climbing was brilliant.

with Andy B
ablackett 31/May/10 AltLd

Led the even pitches, second and last were a bit wet. Second pitch was a bit of a wader along grass ledges getting lost, but what a fantastic route. Only problem is that all the walkers don't stop and watch!

with Jonny Taylor
twoplates 23/May/10 -
with Neil MacKay
cat22 22/May/10 2nd O/S
with Mike
melonmike 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick
lukehunt 24/Apr/10 -
with francocookson
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
nic42 24/Apr/10 AltLd
with mike
Hidden ??/2010 -
NickJH ??/2010 -
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd
The Bad Cough 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

pitch 1,2,4,5

with Lee Bonner, Tom Williams
Chad123 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

Best done in 3 pitches - run the first two together, do the excellent crux pitch then continue up pitch 3 of Nazgul and finally do the top pitch of Nazgul to finish...definitely worth 3 stars this way...

with Rik
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead
Andy Clarke 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

A classic expedition, zig-zagging its way up the face. Good exposure on fingery crux pitch. Enjoyed climbing it so much couldn't stop and overshot belay. Realised something had gone amiss when I found myself looking down on Botterill's Slab! Led Ps 1,3,5.

with Rob
Dave Latimer 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/May/09 AltLd O/S

exposer is great i got the crux pitch

with dave
shaw016 ?/May/09 2nd O/S

Climbed at half 8 at night, with 4 climbers. We reached the top as it went dark. One of the most enjoyable climbs i have done!

with Craig Spence
Spence22 ?/May/09 -

Climbed four people on two ropes Ed and Jo, Me and Charlie.

with Charlie
buddha1369 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lead Pitch's 2,4 & 5

with Simon B (OB)
Lawrence Eccles 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
with P. Jackson, A. Crook
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
prcleary ??/2009 -
Shaw Brown 27/Sep/08 AltLd

Suffered a bit due to cold, dampish conditions. Still really enjoyed the route even with the adverse conditions. Nearly blew the flake pitch by going too high before traversing left, fantastic position once you are on the face of the flake.

Christian Beck ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Martin Davies 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2,4+5. First E1! Tom lead the front of the flake, very glad he did it! P2 was WET, but overall a brilliant day with class weather.

tomhull 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

lead the 1st, 3rd and 6th pitchs

Hidden 13/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 30/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Jim Keeley
Hidden 30/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Rich Mayfield 30/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/07 AltLd
Rog Wilko ?/May/07 AltLd

Did Marr's variation. Supposed to be HVS 5a, but felt like 5b and poorly protected.

with Matt Gordon
C coldwell-storry ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Adam Gill
Zoomer 26/Aug/06 AltLd dnf

Lead first two pitches, Paul led the crux but then the rain came leading to a drawn out retreat.

with Paul Chiddle
Tom Phillips 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S

flake variation is much beter than original route was

with Jarek
fizzy_elephant 25/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Superb route. Well worth three stars

with stu
Hidden 25/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Trobbo 01/Jul/06 AltLd
with martin dale
Si dH 15/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 3, 5. Went a bit off-route on the front of the flake on p3 but held it together. Possibly my favourite ever route - how how how does it only get 2 stars??

with Kane Chandler
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/06 AltLd
sgl 04/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 04/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
ewen ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
John Kettle ??/2006 AltLd
Pete Graham ??/2006 AltLd
with Rick Graham
Stone Muppet ??/2006 -
Hidden 09/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
simon kimber ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Chris Stirling
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 01/Jun/05 -
akhughes ??/2005 AltLd
Justin Tracey ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Jimdanson
Bob 16/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Steve Brock
zero six ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/03 AltLd
BenTiffin 02/Jun/03 AltLd
with Dan Robinson
Mark Collins 19/Apr/03 AltLd dog
with Jane Riley
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
piken ??/2002 -
Hidden ?/Jun/01 AltLd
Jonathan Richardson ??/2000 2nd
alpinismo.uk ??/2000 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/1999 Lead dnf

scary - I backed off and Matt fell off, not realising the original line was no longer HVS but now E3

phardman 20/Jul/97 -
Hidden ?/Jun/97 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
brianrunner ?/Jul/92 -
with gordon innes
keefe 29/Jul/91 -
Hidden 01/Jun/91 AltLd O/S
rogerskews 15/Sep/90 AltLd

Happy times

with Martin Coward
Grezza 21/Jul/90 Lead O/S
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
Hidden 22/Jun/89 AltLd
Chris Ellis 17/May/89 AltLd
with Dan Morgan
Hidden 18/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Andy Fielding 25/Jul/84 AltLd
with Mike Gilbert
andybirtwistle 24/Jul/84 Lead
with Ernie Greenwood
Bruce Kerr 18/Jun/84 Lead
with Sheila Bruce Lockhart
Nevil ?/May/84 Lead
with Bob
Hidden 06/Aug/83 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/83 AltLd O/S
John Marsland ?/Jul/83 Lead dnf

before the chock went south, fell off flake, hurt left ankle...

with Tony Rex
Hidden ??/1983 -
Gordon Stainforth 28/Aug/82 AltLd O/S

John could not second the Great Flake. So we abseiled off. A bit of an epic!

with John Edwards
MikeYouCanClimb 28/Aug/82 AltLd

After graduating from potholing I always remembered my first climb as being HVS, now I find out I was wrong all these years, it was an E1!

with Dave Dowson
DPaul 26/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
with s.brown
Hidden 25/Jul/82 Lead
TonyF ?/Jun/82 AltLd O/S
with Tony Cox
Hammy 17/May/80 AltLd
with Rob Lawson
Nic Robinson 04/May/80 Lead O/S
robinsi197 ??/1980 -
with Barbara
Hidden ??/1980 -
Pedro50 ?/Sep/79 AltLd
with Helen Swift
Dave Musgrove 27/Aug/79 AltLd
with Bob Knapton
Nigel Bond 15/Jul/78 Lead
with Dave Grey
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/78 Lead
with Roger Wilson
RichardMc 13/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
with Patrick Radford
Ken Taylor 01/Jul/77 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
uphillnow ?/Jun/77 AltLd

Idid crux, done several times since

with john page, Al Bennett
Bolt Phobia 20/May/77 Lead dnf
with John Broadwell
GeoffG 10/Jul/76 AltLd
with tony bowker
GeoffG ?/Jul/76 AltLd

rubbish route. historical interest only. ledge shuffling with occasional upward movement

Marcus ??/1976 -
Hidden 07/Jun/75 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1973 AltLd
Hidden ??/1973 2nd O/S
Campbell42 ??/1970 AltLd O/S
with Peter Calam, David Cording
mikej 28/Aug/68 AltLd

With direct start and direct finish.

with Wil Hurford
jcw 28/Sep/66 AltLd

I won the toss for the big pitch and then to my chagrin failed it!

with Richard Stewardson
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High E2
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High HVS
Votes cast 65
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
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Votes cast 65
Votes cast 60
Style of ascent
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