Cumbria > Scafell Crag >
 
Central Buttress** E1 5b

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[Henry Barber on the great flake,Cental Buttress, Scawfell.1974, 2 kb]122m, 6 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.
S.W.Herford, G.S.Sansom et al Apr/1914

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, MIA logbook must haves!, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes.

Photo: Henry Barber on the great flake,Cental Buttress, Scawfell.1974 © USBRIT
View all 16 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 229 logbooks, and on 96 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Sep/14

Finally got it albeit by the front face variant. Blown away by the detached flake on pitch 4.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Colonel Sir Timothy Clarke C.E.O.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/14

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Diane Alger

Led from crux onward. Excellent route, found thin crack on top pitch rather hard!
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Clemmie Mitchell

Nick did 1+2 together, Lead great flake pitch and tacked on the stroll across the ledge. Followed topo line in lake district rock up what I think is the second last pitch of the nazgul (direct to thin crack on final pitch) then up the final pitch of Nazgul to finish. Thin crack move is harder than flake pitch.
JamieSparkes - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Nick Bryan

I lead pitches 1, 2 and 4 and seconded pitches 3, 5 and 6. We led the first two pitches as one and the last two pitches as one because they were all relatively short pitches.
ClemmieMitchell - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/14

Lead 1 + 2, and 4. One of the best days put I've had. Climbed the whole route with no top on, and in the sun. A beautiful day and the route is one of the best I have ever done. Amazing!!
David_Gledson - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/14 with Alan

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Jul/14

stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Doug the thug

Classic for a reason, an amazing route. Led P2,4,6
Teappleby - AltLd - 09/Jul/14 with Calum Wadsworth

Absolutely bloody brilliant.
Calum Wadsworth - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Tom A

Finished up the the last 2 pitches of "The Nazgul" due to wet conditions.
Piers Harley - AltLd - 05/Jul/14 with Ewan Whitmey

Hidden - 2nd - 28/Jun/14

Led the crux by the left hand variant (my first time since the chock came out) and with a different start than previously so quite a bit of new climbing. Couldn't remember the top pitches anyway so they were a geriatric onsight. Can't believe this is only given 2 stars.
harold walmsley - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with George Gilmore

bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Mark R

mark20 - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14

As described in 2014 FRCC guide (4 pitches starting by edge of Moss Gill) but finishing on last pitch of Nazgul. I lead P1(5a) then Peter took over for crux 5b pitch stepping round the great flake. Had some rope drag issues (care needed with gear behind flake) but got the pitch clean. Didn't quite belay far enough over at the top of pitch 2, so I moved past to set up. This made it easier for Peter to do P3, and I was knackered by this point so he too over and lead to the V-ledge and finished P4 on Nazgul. Great climbing on the flake which felt tough to me, but not really done any 5b before. 4c traverse on pitch 3 awkward and delicate in places. Brilliant route.
gav - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Peter Metcalfe

first route on Scafell. Epic adventure, never hard. Just a bit confusing on front of the flake to many options got a bit lost and had killer rope drag..... thought I extended enough, obviously not!
scott quinn - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Tom Priestley

Did improved start. Lead P1 and lead P4 and P5 run together. Great flake pitch is quite confusing. Want to try the direct version now!
Tom.Priestley - AltLd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Scott Quinn

Made a right meal of the crux - got ropes crossed and had to reverse the traverse to reclip a runner... much huffing and puffing ensued. Bold, sustained climbing for several metres until good holds and gear. Rope drag still a problem. Nazgul finish seemed hard for 5a, but we were done in by then. CB bathed in evening sunlight - nice end to the day :-)
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Gavin Whittingham

Lee Sheard - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with John Hubbard

Great route in a great position. Watch out for rope drag on the flake pitch. Nearly stopped me leading it. Top pitch was sopping too.
monkeyman79 - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Simon Mitchell

Mackinclimb - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/14

joe_lancs - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/14

What a day! First route on scafell, done on the route's centenary. A very historical and memorable day.
john lynch - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/14 with dave woods, Tommy, Joe Holden

A day that I will remember for a long time, nod to history, what a privilege. Led P1 (4b). John led P2,3,4. Good lead from John in the damp on the crux pitch.
Tradical - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/14 with Dave Woods, John Holden, Al Phizacklea, John, Joe

What an honour. Climbed on the centenary. Decided to abseil off the second pitch due to rain and ensuing darkness (apparently that is what was done originally). Amazing day. Great leads by Joe Holden and John Lynch.
David Woods - 2nd - 20/Apr/14 with Joe Holden

IanGilbertJones - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13

An superb outing that weaves its way gently upwards. The route comes alive as you progress up past all the great historic features, The Oval, The Great Flake, Jeffcoat's Ledge, V Ledge. Watched the last rays of sun after topping out, a beautiful clear, still evening :)
petegunn - AltLd - 26/Aug/13 with Bill, Davina

wildbill - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Davina, Pete Gunn

top pitch was wet, gear is poor stepping onto face of Great Flake, should head straight up after that but went left. Fantastic route
tim exley - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with will hornby

hornbywill - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13 with tim exley

willhornby - Lead O/S - Aug/13

led to flake in 1 pitch. Graeme led flake pitch which was excellent and I then led the top 2 pitches of nazgul in 1 which made for a more direct and sustained route. Brilliant.
scott gibson - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with graeme read

Done as 4 pitches. Led the flake pitch and the top one. Felt easy for E1, though had rope drag issues on the crux pitch.
maria85 - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Jules

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Led main Pitch. Beautiful but wish I had had micros! Wee bit bold. Rich led two top pitches of Nazgul as one amazing top pitch
Sardien - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Rich Gentry

Awesome climb, took the new line traversing out left from great flake at E1 5b
StuartCJones - 2nd β - 20/Jul/13

Great route and a very busy day on Scafell. Led pitches 4,5 & 6
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Al, Ross

Pitches 2, 4 and 6
oliverk - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13

Lead pitch 1, 3, 5. Cool route.
Rachel Slater - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Olli Crudge

Led P3 (made a complete hash of the ropework on it), P6. Very good!
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Tom Eveleigh

Rachel led crux.
Olli-C - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Rachel Slater

Lead pitches 1 and 2 together, 4 and 5. Lovely route.
LovelyMrTom - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Cal led the crux 5b pitch.
Rachel Somerville - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Cal

Led 4b + 4c pitches
Will Sheaff - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Will Harris

Should have done variation on pitch 4 which would have meant less easy traversing about. Also, last pitch maybe would have been better doing as for nazgul rather than traversing right to wet mossy crack. Awesome day out none the less!
Matt Rowat - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/13 with owen

sgl - AltLd rpt - 06/Jul/13 with Bart

Amazing.
Calder - 2nd - 06/Jul/13 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

Nice very nice
Diggler - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Calder

Goose4 - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/13 with Harry Mcghie

P2, 4 & 6 - great route! Clean onsight apart from the crux pitch as went off route and ended up doing the original route up the Great Flake (E3 5c). Took a wee tumble on this as was greasy!
Gudge - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Mike Lelliott

Tackled the offwidth on the Great Flake direct (E3 5c) after a massive rest to de-pump and psych myself up. Amazing long route! Great dry conditions.
MikeLell - Lead dog - 10/Jun/13 with Chris Gudgeon

Did flake pitch and top pitch.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/13 with jon stewart

Hidden - Apr/13

Andy Chadwick - 2013

Amazing climb
hornbywill - 2013

chrisallan - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12

Luuuuuke - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Max C

What an amazing adventure. A proper Lakes classic multi-pitch. I lead the first pitch which was at VS standard ealry on. Luke then lead the rest. The 5b pitch was very exposed, with only crimps to hold and nothing for the feet. To top it all off there was little protection apart from a sling round the corner and a poorly placed cam! The last picth up the massive flakes was superb. An awesome adventure!
Legs - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Luke Warran

Pitches 2 + 4, great effort from Olly taking the crux pitches!
mfisher - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Olly Roberts

Pitches 1,3,5,6. Awesome route!
ollyroberts - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12 with Matty

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/12

Johann - AltLd O/S - 22/May/12 with Alex Wheeldon

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/12

Rope solo
Peter Holder - Solo O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

JonG - 2012

matt perks - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - 2012

I did pitch 1,3,5 and JWB did pitches 2,4,6 and 7, you may wonder what pitch 7?this is due to him over shooting the belay point by 12meters.sack that man.haha
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with john beardmore

Tremendous. Wandering but worthwhile. Though-provoking but never desperate.
cooperman - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Graham Iles

Some great pitches, some not so good. Going onto and up the Great flake was fantastic. Took us 7 hours ............. must climb quicker!
JWB - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Jon Gill

Graham Iles - AltLd - 30/Jul/11 with Neil Cooper

Should have clipped the tat on the chockstone straight away before venturing onto the face but by then courage had gone!!! Abseil retreat from the oval off a small chockstone also fun! Need to come back in the evening when the sun gets on the face and with a grade or two in hand.
DaveAtkinson - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/11 with Craig Naylor, M.Lawton

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 13/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/11

tom144807 - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Richard Taylor

Nice. Almost climbed full Great Flake, then reversed!! Think it would be fine though. Tim took descent fall
Exodus - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11 with Tim

Need some endurance for this climb, it's long and hard but awesome! It feels fantastic to climb the great flake. I think we started traversing off the flake instead of going straight to the top. It felt serious!
y2keable - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with John

Lead P3 and P6
andysroom - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11

led first 2 pitches, enjoyed (retrospectively) seconding the crux pitch, didn't enjoy seconding the sketchy offbalance traverse of teh fourth pitch and chickend out of what was afterall an easy final pitch. Great climb, character all the way and superb position. Bloody cold though.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Andy Parsons, Kane

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

rurp - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 2011

Johnny Baker - 2011 with Dave Webster

Hidden - 2011

Dave Rumney - 04/Sep/10

Dave Rumney - AltLd - Sep/10 with Tanya Milner

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with ben hiles

darlolad - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jun/10

With the 'Byron Buck Alternative' piano playing traverse across the flake. Numb Fingers. Good climb
Guy Wilson - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Byron Buck

Led P3 and P5. Great flake pitch was great, although accidentally did a different line when out on the face as I didn't know I was meant to go straight up. Still felt about right at the grade though.
Byronius Maximus - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Guy Wilson

A great route. Lower pitches were wet, but great climbing higher up. Took a while to find the right line onto the flake, but once on it the crimpy face climbing was brilliant.
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Andy B

Led the even pitches, second and last were a bit wet. Second pitch was a bit of a wader along grass ledges getting lost, but what a fantastic route. Only problem is that all the walkers don't stop and watch!
ablackett - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Jonny Taylor

twoplates - 23/May/10 with Neil MacKay

cat22 - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Mike

melonmike - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Nick

lukehunt - 24/Apr/10 with francocookson

managed to do it in one and a bit pitches. Best way to do it I reckon.
Franco Cookson - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Luke Hunt

nic42 - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with mike

Hidden - 2010

NickJH - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/09

pitch 1,2,4,5
The Bad Cough - AltLd O/S - 31/May/09 with Lee Bonner, Tom Williams

Best done in 3 pitches - run the first two together, do the excellent crux pitch then continue up pitch 3 of Nazgul and finally do the top pitch of Nazgul to finish...definitely worth 3 stars this way...
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Rik

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/09

A classic expedition, zig-zagging its way up the face. Good exposure on fingery crux pitch. Enjoyed climbing it so much couldn't stop and overshot belay. Realised something had gone amiss when I found myself looking down on Botterill's Slab! Led Ps 1,3,5.
Andy Clarke - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Rob

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09

exposer is great i got the crux pitch
Dale - AltLd O/S - May/09 with dave

Climbed at half 8 at night, with 4 climbers. We reached the top as it went dark. One of the most enjoyable climbs i have done!
shaw016 - 2nd O/S - May/09 with Craig Spence

Climbed four people on two ropes Ed and Jo, Me and Charlie.
Spence22 - May/09 with Charlie

Lead Pitch's 2,4 & 5
buddha1369 - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Simon B (OB)

Lawrence Eccles - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/09 with P. Jackson, A. Crook

Seymore Butt - 2009

prcleary - 2009

Suffered a bit due to cold, dampish conditions. Still really enjoyed the route even with the adverse conditions. Nearly blew the flake pitch by going too high before traversing left, fantastic position once you are on the face of the flake.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 27/Sep/08

Christian Beck - Lead O/S - Aug/08

Led P2,4+5. First E1! Tom lead the front of the flake, very glad he did it! P2 was WET, but overall a brilliant day with class weather.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Tom Hull

lead the 1st, 3rd and 6th pitchs
tomhull - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/08 with martin davies

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/08

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/07 with Jim Keeley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 30/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/07

Did Marr's variation. Supposed to be HVS 5a, but felt like 5b and poorly protected.
Rog Wilko - AltLd - May/07 with Matt Gordon

C coldwell-storry - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Adam Gill

Lead first two pitches, Paul led the crux but then the rain came leading to a drawn out retreat.
Zoomer - AltLd dnf - 26/Aug/06 with Paul Chiddle

flake variation is much beter than original route was
Tom Phillips - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/06 with Jarek

Superb route. Well worth three stars
fizzy_elephant - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/06 with stu

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/06

Trobbo - AltLd - 01/Jul/06 with martin dale

Led pitches 1, 3, 5. Went a bit off-route on the front of the flake on p3 but held it together. Possibly my favourite ever route - how how how does it only get 2 stars??
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/06 with Kane Chandler

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/06

sgl - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/06

ewen - AltLd O/S - Apr/06 with ian hinkins

jim robertson - 2006

Bern - 2006

John Kettle - AltLd - 2006

Pete Graham - AltLd - 2006 with Rick Graham

Stone Muppet - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/05

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Chris Stirling

Did the E1 version - kept thinking I must have done the hard move, but they kept coming!
JohnHutch - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with SC

mike lawrence? - 01/Jun/05

akhughes - AltLd - 2005

Justin Tracey - AltLd O/S - Jul/04 with Jimdanson

Bob - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/03 with Steve Brock

zero six - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/03

BenTiffin - AltLd - 02/Jun/03 with Dan Robinson

Mark Collins - AltLd dog - 19/Apr/03 with Jane Riley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/02

piken - 2002

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

Jonathan Richardson - 2nd - 2000

alpinismo.uk - AltLd - 2000

scary - I backed off and Matt fell off, not realising the original line was no longer HVS but now E3
Stone Muppet - Lead dnf - 1999

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95

brianrunner - Jul/92 with gordon innes

keefe - 29/Jul/91

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/91

Happy times
rogerskews - AltLd - 15/Sep/90 with Martin Coward

Grezza - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/90

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jun/89

Chris Ellis - AltLd - 17/May/89 with Dan Morgan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/88

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Andy Fielding - AltLd - 25/Jul/84 with Mike Gilbert

andybirtwistle - Lead - 24/Jul/84 with Ernie Greenwood

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 18/Jun/84 with Sheila Bruce Lockhart

Hidden - Lead - May/84

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Aug/83

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/83

before the chock went south, fell off flake, hurt left ankle...
John Marsland - Lead dnf - Jul/83 with Tony Rex

Hidden - 1983

John could not second the Great Flake. So we abseiled off. A bit of an epic!
Gordon Stainforth - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/82 with John Edwards

After graduating from potholing I always remembered my first climb as being HVS, now I find out I was wrong all these years, it was an E1!
MikeYouCanClimb - AltLd - 28/Aug/82 with Dave Dowson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/82

Hidden - Lead - 25/Jul/82

Hammy - AltLd - 17/May/80 with Rob Lawson

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 04/May/80

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 27/Aug/79 with Bob Knapton

Nigel Bond - Lead - 15/Jul/78 with Dave Grey

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/77 with Patrick Radford

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 01/Jul/77 with Gerry Dunford

Idid crux, done several times since
David Smith - AltLd - Jun/77 with john page, Al Bennett

Bolt Phobia - Lead dnf - 20/May/77 with John Broadwell

GeoffG - AltLd - 10/Jul/76 with tony bowker

rubbish route. historical interest only. ledge shuffling with occasional upward movement
GeoffG - AltLd - Jul/76

Marcus - 1976

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/75

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd - 1973

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1973

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 1970 with Peter Calam, David Cording

With direct start and direct finish.
mikej - AltLd - 28/Aug/68 with Wil Hurford

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Voting
Total votes cast 170
hard E20 of 58
E20 of 58
easy E21 of 58
hard E18 of 58
E144 of 58
easy E14 of 58
hard HVS0 of 58
HVS1 of 58
easy HVS0 of 58
hard 5c0 of 58
5c0 of 58
easy 5c1 of 58
hard 5b4 of 58
5b42 of 58
easy 5b11 of 58
hard 5a0 of 58
5a0 of 58
easy 5a0 of 58
3 Stars50 of 54
2 Stars4 of 54
1 Star0 of 54
0 Stars0 of 54
Bag of .....0 of 54
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 229 (0.4%)
Lead27 of 229 (11.8%)
Followed15 of 229 (6.6%)
Alt Leads148 of 229 (64.6%)
Unknown38 of 229 (16.6%)

'Climbed'99 of 229 (43.2%)
clean O/S119 of 229 (52.0%)
clean β1 of 229 (0.4%)
clean rpt2 of 229 (0.9%)
dogged2 of 229 (0.9%)
dnf6 of 229 (2.6%)