Rockfax Description
An eliminate that visits some wild spots.
1) 6a, 22m. Start as for Hot Gossip. After entering the groove traverse left at an easy line above the roof for a couple of metres until below a thin crack. Climb this (one move of 5b to start) then easily up to belay below the cave of Castellan.
2) 6b, 20m. Follow Hot Gossip to the roof (Laurin goes right here and Hot Gossip straight up). Traverse wildly left into the hanging scoop (knee-lock rest) to good holds and gear (peg). Make the crux moves to and up the rib/crack to jugs and stance.
3) 5c, 22m. Move slightly left and up the wall right of the groove of Hot Gossip (thread and cam in pocket) to the roof and use the Phrantic Finish to cross this. Trend right across the wall to the break and finish up a small flake on the left. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
Stoney Boy 27/Jun AltLd O/S

Proper journey to one of the most exposed spots in Derbyshire. 2 stars and in very good nick at moment. Great to see M1 done twice and teams on other trad routes. All not bad for a Monday.

dominic lee 18/Jun AltLd O/S

Great positions.

with daniel lee
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
keefe ??/2005 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/04 Lead β
keefe 13/Jul/04 2nd
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set