Moray > Shelterstone Crag >
 
Sticil Face*** V 6

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Sticil Face Variation Start >>
[The mighty Shelterstone in winter with a climber on Sticil face, 2 kb]Pronounced 'steech-kil', not 'sty-sill'.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs.

Photo: The mighty Shelterstone in winter with a climber on Sticil face © hwackerhage
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 45 logbooks, and on 46 wishlists.

Ice corner looked about a III but the cornice blocking the exit chimney was huge so did one pitch then sacked it
Scotsken - Lead dnf - 03/Mar/14 with Jamie Evans

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

climbed to the crux corner but there was very little ice so backed off with one 15 meter abb and then down climbing
Ginger McGrath - Solo dnf - 02/Feb/13

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Feb/12

Malcolm Bass - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Simon Yearsley

As per previous comments, lots of powder on top few pitches made for a fun outing! Last pitch was definitely the technical crux (and required digging!).
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/11 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/11 with Adam Booth

Way too much powder. We stuck at it until near the top, then had an interesting time abbing down the central slabs in the dark...
Andy Moles - AltLd - 15/Dec/11 with James Dunn

Abbed after crux (which Dan led) poor snow conditions
tommytuffa - AltLd dnf - 15/Dec/11 with Dan Moore

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Dec/11

Ace
tom.e - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/11 with Tom Powell

Sticil Ace
Mr Powly - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/11 with Tom Everett

Pete Graham - AltLd - 10/Feb/11 with Howard Lawledge

Drew M - AltLd - Feb/11 with Kane Chandler

Thin conditions. Fall from top of icicle pitch. Airlifted out to Inverness. Absolutely no recollection of what happened. 2 ropes, a ruckasck and axe left for some lucky soul.
mark-abz - Lead dnf - 02/Jan/11 with Alex

Hidden - 2011

WOW! Walked in after the eclipsing moon on a windless and cloudless day. Crux ice pitch was thin, popped off but got back on and did it second go. Also lead the exit chimney in the dark which seems normal for the long routes on this crag!? Really good steep climbing, good gear. But snow unconsolidated. Clean next time in better conditions. First V lead
geoff.comley - AltLd O/S - 21/Dec/10 with Gregor, Pat Ingram

gregor - 21/Dec/10

Thin ice fall with scary traverse. moonlight walf off stonking day.
Alco-nomic - AltLd - 20/Dec/10 with Geoff, Gregor

Must have been about plan F for the day, but a good route. I got the steep ice pitch so had a good wee gibber to myself.
Neil Adams - AltLd - 18/Dec/10 with Andy Inglis

Surprisingly tricky route with difficult crux for a V. Decent falback option with very little else in nick.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/10 with Neil Adams

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10

Was very thin and powder on ledges. Felt really hard with Direct finish. Finished in the Dark. Excellent now.
lachlan - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Bjorn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10

Stunning day. Direct start was thin ice but no way VI! Direct finish was well worth it, and probably was worth a grade more than it says in the guide! Great direct route up the face.
Smelly Fox - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10 with Scott Webster, Mark Mosgrove

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Feb/10

Led 20m ish of 2nd pitch, icey steep- need to learn to place ice screws with left hand
nikkimac - 2nd - 28/Jan/10 with Flash and Graham

Awesome big day out...24 hours door to door.
MonkeyDawson - 2nd - 28/Jan/10 with Nikki Macarthur, James Gordon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/09

got dragged up it by tony. very impressive lead, especially the last pitch, under verglas and powder in the dark.
smithaldo - 2nd - 29/Dec/09 with TonyM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Dec/09

paul79 - AltLd O/S - Dec/09

Classic climb weaving it's way up an impressive face. Crux pitch is pretty steep and the mixed bits are fun too. Almost consolidated on ledges but a bit more thaw/freeze would make it perfect....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 01/Feb/09 with Lard

sgl - AltLd - 24/Jan/09 with viv

Looked 'in' from a distance but all the ice was rotten & thin. Got two pitches up it but all felt very insecure. While we were deciding whether or not to carry on, another leader overtook and promptly fell off.
Neil Adams - Lead dnf - 15/Mar/08 with Andy N

Great crux and exit chimney, good situations but the snow and ice on the easy bits was less than perfect. A classic route.
hwackerhage - AltLd - 20/Jan/08 with Brian D.

dangates - 29/Dec/98 with Nick Tarmey/ Kirk Watson

t p hubbard - 2nd O/S - Feb/97

switch - AltLd - Mar/95

Crux adequately iced. Final chimney great mixed pitch. Finished up Deep Cut Chimney to fill up the day.
Grezza - Lead O/S - Feb/95 with Andy Kemp

Winter
TheAndyBarker - AltLd - Jan/92

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 26/Jan/91 with George McEwan

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/86

L,2,L,2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/85 with Alan Bennett

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 32
hard VI0 of 11
VI0 of 11
easy VI0 of 11
hard V1 of 11
V10 of 11
easy V0 of 11
hard IV0 of 11
IV0 of 11
easy IV0 of 11
hard 70 of 11
70 of 11
easy 70 of 11
hard 60 of 11
68 of 11
easy 63 of 11
hard 50 of 11
50 of 11
easy 50 of 11
3 Stars8 of 10
2 Stars2 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 45 (2.2%)
Lead5 of 45 (11.1%)
Followed4 of 45 (8.9%)
Alt Leads31 of 45 (68.9%)
Unknown4 of 45 (8.9%)

'Climbed'20 of 45 (44.4%)
clean O/S19 of 45 (42.2%)
dnf6 of 45 (13.3%)