Highland > Stob Coire nan Lochan >
 
Unicorn*** E1 5a

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[Stepping back into corner on Unicorn, Pitch 1, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Stepping back into corner on Unicorn, Pitch 1 © alan wilson
View all 15 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 77 logbooks, and on 64 wishlists.

Perfect weather and nice route were a great welcome back to scotland, nice climbing but a bit turfy and dirty in places....... probably 5* in winter nick!...
Ginger McGrath - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14 with kevin mcgrath

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/14

Permia - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/14

Did the whole climb in 3 pitches, I led pitch 2 up the main corner which was fantastic. Rock in prime condition, felt like a really proper mountain trad route. Superb.
Hugh Simons - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Euan Todd

Fantastic climb! Did the main corner in 2 pitches, definitely 5b for the first ~35m. Had perfect conditions. Felt like proper mountain trad, such a good day!
Euan Todd - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Hugh Simons

Samuel Wainwright - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Rafe Osborne

Great route. First pitch is 5b as others have said. Scottish Rock Climbs pitch lengths are a bit off too - better to climb the corner in two long pitches (~40m/35m). No abseil slings in situ at present.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Neil

Fantastic strong line. Very physical climbing with plenty of old fashioned thrutch and a lot of loose rock on top of the second pitch.
UncleMephisto - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/14 with Sam Wainwright

not sure it's worth 4 stars, though it was pretty wet
alex_arthur - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Grigor

Brilliant, relentless first pitch.
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/14 with Sophie Gilbert

Amazing. Hard first pitch
Sophie Gilbert - 2nd dog - 30/Jun/14 with Liam Ingram

Ooo yeah!
robertmichaeladams - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Tim

Tim Rodgers - AltLd - 21/Jun/14 with Rob Adams

First pitch harder than 5a (especially with rucksack), led 2nd pitch. Top pitch pumpy. Intimidating hard route.
Happy Wanderer - AltLd dog - 16/Jun/14 with Mike D

Had to climb over a 30m snow bank to reach the climb. Led p1, p3 and p4. The guide book we used showed all four pitches being 5a. I would say more like 5b, 4c, 5a & 5a.
MD - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Jo

Stupendous! Best route I've led so far. Terrifyingly wet and really quite run out at one point. Lots of tricky gear placements cleaning out cracks filled with wet moss and fiddling in hexes. Led P1 and P2 together. Lovely (dry) climbing on the top pitch. Eleanor was unimpressed after being given both rucksacks to carry.
Edvenables - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13 with Eleanor Dow

gurumed - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with gjd

Did the corner as 2 pitches by accident. I led 2nd part. Lost the clean - foot slip on p1.
gjd - AltLd - 25/Aug/13 with Gurumed

colin.morrison - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with ewan

2 excellent sustained pitches up the main corner, bone dry.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Colin M

Very wet crack climbing on the middle pitch. Top pitch even wetter. Still a great route.
Tubs - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Tim C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13

First pitch was a bit spicy. Great corner pitches though.
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 05/Jun/13 with lawrie brand

With the 'Hamlet variation' on pitch 1. Great route, did main corner in two pitches
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Tim Hamlet

Climbed in 3 pitches, led 1 & 3 EXCELLENT!
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Mike Tutt

phil64 - 2013

captain - 2013

captain - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Brilliant climb! Good lead by Tom on P1&2. I chickened out of P2 having found P1 quite hard on second. Don't know if its that low in the grade?! Its very sustained. I took P3 and got a bit of a surprise when I traversed out onto that wall - steep and very exposed! Sat on my gear til I got my act together and finished the job.
iceicebaby - AltLd - 10/Aug/12 with Tom Adams

absolutely brilliant! harder than expected...
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with christina

Hidden - Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Ben Wallace

First pitch 5b but good gear and it's all there! P3 is a delight, top pitch top-out moves are quite unexpected! A classic glen-coe great worthy of the 3 stars :]
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Alex

westaway - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Great route, climbed in 3 pitches, I led 1&3. Pitch 1 was much more like 5b.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 27/Apr/11 with Max Hunter

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Didn't feel that low in the grade. Felt quite spicy.
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Jason King

JasonK - AltLd - 15/Aug/10 with Euan Boyd

Johann - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Alex Wheeldon

Hidden - Lead - Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

5b move first pitch onto the rib then excellent crack climbing which is very well protected and hardish 5a on main crack. Pitches 2 and 3 can be run together.
James Humble - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Tom

barney_edin - AltLd - 06/Jun/07 with Kati, Geoff M

alan wilson - AltLd - Jun/07 with n smith

centurion05 - 2007

fritz_in_aotearoa - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/05

akhughes - Lead O/S - 2005

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

Amazing climb but fell off 4th pitch!
Drmikew - Lead dog - Sep/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/96

Excellent classic route. first pitch is quite nippy.
brianrunner - AltLd - 1996 with gordon innes

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/93

Hidden - 30/May/93

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 23/May/92 with Perric Crellin

keefe - 1990

cam1401 - AltLd O/S - Jun/88 with Graeme Johnson

Steve climbed wearing his sister's old pink ballet tights - at least he said they were hers !
rogerskews - AltLd O/S - 25/May/87 with Steve Walker

GaryK - AltLd O/S - May/87 with Mark Charlton

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

My first route in Scotland.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/82 with M. Lynch

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 19/Jun/82 with Steve

neil3965 - AltLd - Jun/80 with Adam Kassyk

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Stevie989, hutchay, Hidden, Euan Todd, benclimbing, Hidden, alex_arthur, Grigor, Alex the Alex, CM1992, Hidden, Col Kingshott, mike_tamanawis, sgl0jd, arose, oliverk, Hidden, Hidden, Dino Dave, JonmapDL, Hidden, AWH, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, thomaspomfrett, sleeplessjb, David Stevens, CRiddiford, andybuckley, alias dave, jamie ward, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, stewart100, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Olli-C, Mattlamb90, Hidden, Hidden, Ander, Hidden, DCIGadget, snakebite, web10steelj, rustaldo, Mr Wild, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, David Smith, Hidden, michael83, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jazzyjackson, 220bpm

Voting
Total votes cast 76
hard E20 of 26
E20 of 26
easy E20 of 26
hard E14 of 26
E121 of 26
easy E10 of 26
hard HVS1 of 26
HVS0 of 26
easy HVS0 of 26
hard 5b1 of 26
5b4 of 26
easy 5b18 of 26
hard 5a2 of 26
5a1 of 26
easy 5a0 of 26
hard 4c0 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c0 of 26
3 Stars21 of 24
2 Stars3 of 24
1 Star0 of 24
0 Stars0 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Lead14 of 77 (18.2%)
Followed3 of 77 (3.9%)
Alt Leads44 of 77 (57.1%)
Unknown16 of 77 (20.8%)

'Climbed'39 of 77 (50.6%)
clean O/S35 of 77 (45.5%)
dogged3 of 77 (3.9%)