Highland > Stob Coire nan Lochan >
 
Unicorn*** E1 5a

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[Unicorn (VIII), Stob Coire Nan Lochan, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Unicorn (VIII), Stob Coire Nan Lochan © Tom Briggs
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 62 logbooks, and on 58 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/13

gurumed - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with gjd

Did the corner as 2 pitches by accident. I led 2nd part. Lost the clean - foot slip on p1.
gjd - AltLd - 25/Aug/13 with Gurumed

colin.morrison - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with ewan

2 excellent sustained pitches up the main corner, bone dry.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Colin M

Very wet crack climbing on the middle pitch. Top pitch even wetter. Still a great route.
Tubs - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13 with Tim C

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jul/13

First pitch was a bit spicy. Great corner pitches though.
Tim Hamlet - AltLd - 05/Jun/13 with lawrie brand

With the 'Hamlet variation' on pitch 1. Great route, did main corner in two pitches
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Tim Hamlet

Climbed in 3 pitches, led 1 & 3 EXCELLENT!
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Mike Tutt

phil64 - 2013

captain - 2013

captain - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Brilliant climb! Good lead by Tom on P1&2. I chickened out of P2 having found P1 quite hard on second. Don't know if its that low in the grade?! Its very sustained. I took P3 and got a bit of a surprise when I traversed out onto that wall - steep and very exposed! Sat on my gear til I got my act together and finished the job.
iceicebaby - AltLd - 10/Aug/12 with Tom Adams

absolutely brilliant! harder than expected...
tomdude - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with christina

Hidden - Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - 28/May/12

Hidden - AltLd - May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with Ben Wallace

First pitch 5b but good gear and it's all there! P3 is a delight, top pitch top-out moves are quite unexpected! A classic glen-coe great worthy of the 3 stars :]
simon_D - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with Alex

westaway - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11

Great route, climbed in 3 pitches, I led 1&3. Pitch 1 was much more like 5b.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 27/Apr/11 with Max Hunter

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Didn't feel that low in the grade. Felt quite spicy.
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with Jason King

JasonK - AltLd - 15/Aug/10 with Euan Boyd

Johann - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Alex Wheeldon

Hidden - Lead - Jun/10

Hidden - 2010

5b move first pitch onto the rib then excellent crack climbing which is very well protected and hardish 5a on main crack. Pitches 2 and 3 can be run together.
James Humble - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Tom

barney_edin - AltLd - 06/Jun/07 with Kati, Geoff M

alan wilson - AltLd - Jun/07 with n smith

centurion05 - 2007

fritz_in_aotearoa - 2006

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/05

akhughes - Lead O/S - 2005

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

Amazing climb but fell off 4th pitch!
Drmikew - Lead dog - Sep/98

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/96

Excellent classic route. first pitch is quite nippy.
brianrunner - AltLd - 1996 with gordon innes

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jun/93

Hidden - 30/May/93

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 23/May/92 with Perric Crellin

keefe - 1990

cam1401 - AltLd O/S - Jun/88 with Graeme Johnson

Steve climbed wearing his sister's old pink ballet tights - at least he said they were hers !
rogerskews - AltLd O/S - 25/May/87 with Steve Walker

GaryK - AltLd O/S - May/87 with Mark Charlton

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

My first route in Scotland.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/82 with M. Lynch

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 19/Jun/82 with Steve

neil3965 - AltLd - Jun/80 with Adam Kassyk

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Aug/76

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alex_arthur, Grigor, Alex the Alex, CM1992, Hidden, Col Kingshott, mike_tamanawis, sgl0jd, arose, oliverk, Hidden, Hidden, Dino Dave, JonmapDL, Hidden, AWH, Hidden, Hidden, Dizz, Hidden, thomaspomfrett, sleeplessjb, David Stevens, CRiddiford, andybuckley, alias dave, jamie ward, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, stewart100, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Olli-C, Mattlamb90, Hidden, Hidden, Ander, Hidden, DCIGadget, snakebite, web10steelj, rustaldo, Mr Wild, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, David Smith, Hidden, michael83, Ian Jones, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, jazzyjackson, 220bpm

Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard E20 of 18
E20 of 18
easy E20 of 18
hard E12 of 18
E115 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard HVS1 of 18
HVS0 of 18
easy HVS0 of 18
hard 5b0 of 18
5b1 of 18
easy 5b14 of 18
hard 5a2 of 18
5a1 of 18
easy 5a0 of 18
hard 4c0 of 18
4c0 of 18
easy 4c0 of 18
3 Stars14 of 17
2 Stars3 of 17
1 Star0 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Lead9 of 62 (14.5%)
Alt Leads37 of 62 (59.7%)
Unknown16 of 62 (25.8%)

'Climbed'37 of 62 (59.7%)
clean O/S24 of 62 (38.7%)
dogged1 of 62 (1.6%)