UKC Logbook - 'Ochre Slab Route I'

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Cornwall > Bosigran >

Ochre Slab Route I

VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Ochre One Point Five

Black Slab >>

A popular and rewarding climb that consists of two totally contrasting pitches; the first technical and the second super steep. Start on a high flat ledge left of Black Slab. 1) 4c, 24m. Pull onto the slab. Climb rightwards to its edge and move up to where it meets the steep wall above. Make technical moves up and right to a black vein and follow this more easily, moving right after 5m, to a belay below the overhanging corner at the right-hand end of the large overhang. 2) 5a, 8m. Climb the overhanging corner, perplexing but well-protected, and pull over the lip on massive holds to easier ground. A wild pitch. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, West Country Climbs.

Photo: Nina on Ochre Slab 2 Bosigran © mooseloose
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 326 logbooks, and on 17 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead dog - 08/Jun/13

Wicked! Thought the 4c wall was harder than the 5a bit although that looked harder and needed more psyching up for!
jhb0510 - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Dave Webster

Top pitch looks very improbable but is loaded with holds. 4c on first pitch is harder. James was well chuffed to lead it.
perranman - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with James berwick

perranman - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with James berwick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/May/13

Hidden - 23/May/13

Excellent leading by Andrea, the 4c move I thought was harder than the 5a one.
Hamish777 - 19/May/13 with Rachael, Andrea

Excellent route. Got confused about how deep to go in the chimney/overhang on the second pitch and ended up burying myself too far into it. But once came out and found the jugs-fine! Lead both pitches.
andrea83 - Lead O/S - 19/May/13 with Rachel, Hamish

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13

Missed last pitch, finishing up slab to the left
NancyJones - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Dad

just 1st pitch
callum brown - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Log dog

Homes - 31/Mar/13

john lynch - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13 with luke holmes, sam arthur

Lead both pitch 1 and 2. VS I dont think so, ridiculous! Some crazy climbing on the top pitch, quite amazing!
dprctr - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Fiona McFarlane, Martin Oldham

Fiona McFarlane - AltLd dog - Mar/13 with Martin oldham, Dave proctor

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Grabtheslab - 2013

guy757 - Lead - 30/Oct/12

Hidden - 30/Oct/12

Led P2 - Fine once you work out how to do it..
Slick - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina

gowla - Lead rpt - 14/Sep/12 with Keith Mitchell

Sean Kelly - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Harry Pearce

markquest - Sep/12 with alison williams

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/12

1st pitch only
Jim Malo - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Deborah

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Aug/12

P2. A jug fest.
Dilwat - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with SurferStan

P1
SurferStan - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with Dilwat

Climbed the first pitch only as the second was seeping massively :(
jonleighton - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/12

Alor_lab - 2nd β - 23/Jun/12 with Jon

2nd pitch after The Black Slab
dj_brigham05 - Solo O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Rob Tyler

Led the second pitch just as the sun sank below the horizon. The light pool of the head torch only added to the fun! Great little route.
DavidMetcalf - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12 with Amber Thornton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/May/12

Lead P1, got confused by where to go, a bit run out. George lead pitch two, awesome and crazy little sequence!
SamChessell - AltLd O/S - 06/May/12 with George King

barrowclough - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12 with CJ, Peter Lane

gingerking - AltLd O/S - May/12 with Tom Mather, Sam Chessell

tmather - AltLd O/S - May/12 with George King, Samuel Chessell

Marcin78 - AltLd O/S - 07/Apr/12 with Kuba

givemetea - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Patrick

Pete Graham - AltLd - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

very enjoyable, the guidebook says it right, the final corner is perplexing, but fine once you work it out. the 1st pitch is bold
Webster - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/12

First pitch didn't feel 4c, more like 4b, was runout but the hard bit was well protected. Second pitch looked really intimidating but once you see how to do it wasn't very hard.
arandall - Lead O/S - 29/Feb/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd - 29/Feb/12 with arandall

Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12

Not pitch 2. Very run out in second half of 1st pitch
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead O/S - 11/Feb/12

andybenham - AltLd rpt - 28/Jan/12 with paul abram

Hidden - 2012

dc88104 - Lead dnf - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Led p2 but went too far right think ended up on a severe.
spragglerocks - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Verity Payne, Matt Box

Did the correct slab this time - previous effort last year in wrong place, d'oh. Great route. Didn't do top pitch; nails and a total contrast to the slab.
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/11 with Verity Payne, Rachel Spraggs

Subwaycups - Lead rpt - 28/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11

Escaped from P2 by traversing out right. P2 was wet and covered in bird poo (plus, very scary looking).
stuaart - AltLd O/S - 25/Jun/11 with Emily Ward

Led Pitch 1. good contrasting pitches. 2nd pitch is a stopper
jakenichol - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Dave Heaton

Dave Heaton - AltLd - 23/Jun/11 with Jake Nichol

P1 only (VS 4c). Looked at P2 but neither of us could commit to the first move.
timstyles - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Brian Vaughan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/11

At VS 4C probably fits better with the other grades at Bosi than the HVS 5A its given in Rockfax West Country Climbs.
Brannock - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/11

Darrell Read - Lead - 11/Jun/11 with Sam Cruickshank

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11

pudding - Lead β - 09/Jun/11 with adam spooner, matthew gibbings

ben bowry - 2nd O/S - Jun/11 with Matthew Murphy

Could not find where to move up after the lower slab on pitch 1.
marcduhig - Lead dnf - 28/May/11 with Kwan

cornishmackem - AltLd - 24/May/11

DOVEY - AltLd - 22/May/11 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

five - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with CJ

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Dave R.

Okecroak - AltLd - 29/Apr/11

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11 with helen gibson

Mike led P1. I found this very tricky and would give it 5a. I led the superb top pitch - the secrets of which opened up for me as I climbed. Great right toe hook to control the reach to the juggy flake. Surprisingly straightforward after that. Much easier than the "4b" finish to Suicide Wall and the 5a finish to Thin Wall Special.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 26/Apr/11 with Mike Tempest

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Apr/11

Did in one long pitch. The top crux section is nice and tough.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Tony H

stevepotter - AltLd - 25/Apr/11 with Bryan

Steve P1, Me P2.
hellboundblr - AltLd - 25/Apr/11 with Steve P

Dibdawg - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Phil Hall

What a route, definatly route of contrasts! Lead p1, would stick with old grade of vs 4c.
tompilgrem - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Dad

P1-Tom-steady and commiting slab climbing. P2-me-straightforward once I eventually figured out the moves and committed myself. Overall - top of VS/4c
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Bob/Tom

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11

zach.stone - 2nd - 01/Apr/11 with Chris Allen

3 star route
misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with wain

Justin T - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/11

timmsy - AltLd - 10/Mar/11 with David_Gledson

Lead P2.
David_Gledson - AltLd - 2011 with Rich Timms

Hidden - 2011

Chris Nash - 2nd - 2011

Encouraged Gareth to lead again and found another retro cam!
nickstephens - AltLd O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Gareth Greeves

mbradberry2008 - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/10 with Jacob Kirmes-Daly

Jacob k-d - AltLd O/S - 03/Oct/10

Led second pitch this time. This really is a great route
andybenham - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Gareth Hayfield

Oh dear, not feeling good after an earier fall and after leading P1 backed off down Black Slab.
Gareth - Lead dnf - 25/Sep/10 with Andrew

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Sep/10

P2. Looks daunting and struggled with sugar crash but it's great if you go for it back and foot style. Can be done non-thuggy other than final airy pull but on massive jugs with great bridge fro feet. Get good rest with feet in LH pocket to arrange gear before pulling round onto the jugs. Great fun.
Batt - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Rachel B

MH123 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Mike Waller

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/10

What a fun route!
dave657 - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/10 with Alys

Led pitch 1 VS 4b. Backed off top pitch and escaped off left.
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/10 with Heather Lewis

tomB - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Tim Griffin

Excellent varied climbing on immaculate granite. Led P1
andybenham - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10 with Jim Croft

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

redshapedfriday - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10

lukea - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10 with Al

Me Pitch 1, Mark the fantastic pitch 2. The second pitch is amazing but glad I only had to second it?
cheeky - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Mark Philipson

brilliant route of contrasts. pitch 1 open face and slightly committing. pitch 2 a thuggy thrutch into open space, but on huge jugs.
mark4344 - AltLd - 06/Jul/10 with Matt Payne

Jennyvs - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Dan Walker

Didn't do the inverted V on final pitch. Moved up crag to the right.
martinp - 2nd - 27/Jun/10 with GarethR

Clean
mes32 - 2nd - 12/Jun/10

my new nemisis
erinbastian - 2nd - 12/Jun/10 with Ken Mayo

Em66 - AltLd - 12/Jun/10 with Matt, Mat

willson - 2nd - 08/Jun/10 with ben

Awesome climb, deserves all the stars. Made the traverse harder than it needed to be by missing a foot ledge, but that made it more satisfying. Top overhang pitch took at least 3 hours to lead, probably due to inexperience on Cornish granite (2nd route), but very satisfying when I finally got it.
mullermn - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Kylie Richards

First pitch was really nice climbing, enjoyed the blind traverse. Came off after reaching the back of the cave and then spent a while hanging on the ropes getting out gear.
Kylie - 2nd dog - 04/Jun/10 with mullermn

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/10

Moved onto the amazing top pitch overhang/chimney from another easier route as it looks so good. Although it wasn't that hard, the commitment of stepping into blind holds over thin air is about the most memorable thing I've done.
royal - Lead O/S - 30/May/10

Craig Geddes - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Ellie Ames

Hidden - 2nd - 14/May/10

verticon - Lead O/S - May/10

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

dswansonlow - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Hawes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 12/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/10

Different Steve - AltLd rpt - 02/Apr/10 with Emma Hawkins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10

JerryD - Lead - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Led first pitch, misread guide book and didnt go out right far enough to see blind move, resulted in fall.
Jon Hawes - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - 2010

pitch 1.
leadmat - Solo O/S - 2010

brianrunner - AltLd - 2010 with martina

Pitch 1 only, pitch 2 dripping munge
Rob84 - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09 with Penny CUMC

I am still smiling several hours afterwards
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with Emma Ransom

paddymitton - Oct/09

Dave Mason - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/09 with Trev Tatler

Pete Nugent - Lead - Aug/09 with Mark "Sparky" Adams

p2 VS, 5a
Pete Nugent - Lead - Aug/09 with Mark "Sparky" Adams

craig h - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09 with Sue

Led the amazing and baffling second pitch
sgl0jd - AltLd - 28/Jun/09

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/09 with Pippa Froggatt

matsavage - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09

Subwaycups - 2nd β - 09/Jun/09

Tried to lead first pitch, couldn't commit to the blind move
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 03/May/09 with Henk Smith, Tim Bucknall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/09

JGW - Lead - May/09 with Matt Tilley

led 2nd pitch
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/09 with Paul Bolton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/09

Missed out toip 5a pitch by not reading guidebook properly.
krikoman - Lead dnf - 10/Apr/09 with Sally Strawberry

Hidden - Lead - 08/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/09

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Mar/09

In the wet!
Master Chief - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/09 with Moe

existing debt - Mar/09 with Iain a

paulh1967 - 2009

Led roof, it was awesome and devious:)
sebrider - AltLd O/S - Nov/08 with eugeneth

eugeneth - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/08 with Seb

saz_m - 2nd - 12/Sep/08 with Christian Lenehan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Very tough overhanging roof for 4c in some older guidebook. Even the new 5a grade is still tricky. Nice day at long last after 2 days of continuous misery.
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/08 with Mike Parkinson

perranman - AltLd - 03/Aug/08

P1 only which was v.nice. Backed off P2 (5a at least?) due to been wet, ill partner and looking dam hard - went up P2 of route II instead.
markfairbank - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/08 with Mick D

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Liz davies

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - 2nd - 28/Jul/08 with Alasdair88

Fenwick - Jul/08 with Pete/Tomo

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/08

MoWalker3 - 2nd - 13/Jun/08 with Quiet Ian

mat cooper - Lead - 08/Jun/08

inspiration_needed - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/08 with Mat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 10/May/08

erica - 2nd - 06/May/08 with John

pitch 1 only
John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 06/May/08 with Erica

Missed out the first bit and just did the fun overhang.
chrissloan84 - Lead - 05/May/08 with AJM

First pitch only, Chris took huge fall on Ochre Slab II so had to get off to help.
jezb1 - Lead - 05/May/08

jonka - AltLd - May/08 with sean

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Oct/07

arctic.lizard123 - Oct/07 with Tim Carter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07

P1 - felt v bold at end of traverse. P2 wet and horrid so scampered off left
lithos - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/07

shoulders - Lead - 07/Aug/07 with dai

hard overhang to dodge but the rest is easy (to second at least!
Harry B Lawder - 2nd rpt - Aug/07 with Daisy Peters

top pitch is silly
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/07 with Fiend

zcapxa5 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Hannah Shaw, Jenni Young

cham749 - Lead O/S - 24/May/07 with Ivan Goodchild

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/07

I led first pitch. Lovely slab led to a scary traverse and blind step around, then a run out slab. Not too hard but felt bold! Ollie led the unpleasant contortionist chimney/roof affair at the top
adamscottthomas - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with Oliver Mentz

31770 - AltLd O/S - 05/May/07 with adamscottthomas

mankrambler - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/07 with Harry Low

melmyo - AltLd - Apr/07

Exciting pitch through the roof. Very glad I didn't lead it.
maresia - 2nd O/S - 04/Feb/07 with Mike Kann

Rob Kennard - 2007

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Tim

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - 2007

JackMountains - 2nd β - 04/Nov/06 with Dan Smith & Chris

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/06 with Trevor Macalonan

trevor macalonan - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/06 with Tim

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/06

Bottled the top pitch, then found it easy to second.
Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - Aug/06 with Ian

Cat G - AltLd O/S - Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/06

Couldn't find the holds to move towards black stuff on the 1st pitch, came down and Jana led the first pitch instead. Perversely I led the 2nd and found it easier than the 1st.
mooseloose - AltLd RP - 29/May/06 with Jana

Had to miss the 2nd pitch out, far too daunting for my 2nd to lead through and convinced me not to try
collingwood - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/06 with Matthew Rhodes

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/06 with Tom Harvey

the rec - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/06 with Fred

leadmat - Lead - 2006

Runtothehills - AltLd O/S - 2006

ArnaudG - 2006

mikelaing - 2006

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 2006 with Beckholland, Rebecca Holland

chrisallan - Lead dnf - 2006

wojt - Lead - 2006

carriegold - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/05 with Steve C

A gorgeous top pitch
timharrison - AltLd O/S - Sep/05 with Jo Willet

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/05

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 28/Aug/05 with Christian Darr

leon - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Amanda Skeldon

led P2
Different Steve - AltLd O/S - Aug/05 with Caroline Goldsworthy

Tom Vivian - AltLd - 30/Jul/05

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/05 with crossdressingrodney

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/05 with victim of mathematics

Si dH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/05 with Alison Ingleby

The top pitch was tough but fun!
Rob Oram - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/05 with James Booth

James B - 11/Jun/05 with Rob

First pitch was one of the nicest leads I've ever done....well done to Si for beasting the second pitch!
Ali - AltLd - Jun/05 with Si dH

Stig - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with Geraldine Lawless

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/05

Andy2 - 2005

Andy Graham - AltLd O/S - 2005

Mike - AltLd - 07/Jun/04 with Mike Palmer

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Nov/03

Led p1, couldn't do p2 - climbed adjacent wall instead.
Alaric - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/03 with Paul L

P2 looks imposing but goes ok - ropework difficult though. Impossible to hear each other if there's any wind. Second escaped up the side.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 08/May/03 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Apr/03

Hidden - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2003

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/02

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/02

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - Apr/02 with KM

Led p2
cem - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/02 with Rob Smithies

phardman - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/01

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/01

Stone Muppet - 2001

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/00 with jon