Abbey Buttress*** S
[Pitch 2 Abbey Buttress - below the crux moves  , 3 kb]58m, 3 pitches. Good climbing with a devious and intimidating second pitch. Start from the foot of the buttress in a squeeze chimney (Fat Man's Agony) formed by a large detached flake.
1.) 20m, climb the chimney and up to a ledge, step right and follow a steep crack to a ledge.
2.) 20m, ascend the steep rock above to a wide ledge at 5m. Traverse left for 5m then go straight up for 8m, where a traverse back right below an overhang can be made onto an arete that leads onto good holds to a large ledge.
3.) 18m, the crack on the left followed by the left corner of the buttress are climbed to a junction with Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route.
F Botterill, J de V Hazard Apr/1909

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS.

Photo: Pitch 2 Abbey Buttress - below the crux moves © Andysomething
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 66 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/15 with John Baston, Tessa Baston

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/15

I led the even pitches. Did it many years ago, but other than the start I couldn't remember any of it. Severe as per the guidebook is maybe right, due to the 2nd pitch.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd rpt - 27/Jun/15 with Carmen

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15

DGY - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/15 with Graham & Robbe

Pigpen - AltLd - 07/Apr/15 with Loch

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Hidden - AltLd - 31/May/14

ned_85 - AltLd - 03/May/14 with Emily Bridger

erbridger - AltLd - 03/May/14 with nedly14

Allanfairfechan - 2014

After long walk-in from Honister Pass. May have gone off route for a bit near the top.
MikeLell - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13

chris smith - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

colin smith - AltLd - 21/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

Jenny Hall - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with tom wood, Louis

Sam Marks - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Matt Capsey

Led P1 & P3. Went direct through overhang at start of P3 for interest.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Dave Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jun/12

Lois lead fitst, second pitch felt hard for grade, but was interesting, abbed off at second belay
Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Lois Barratt

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11

Trobbo - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with andy hartley

iwebster59017 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Carl Sunley, kirsty Brown

Kirsty810202 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Carl Sunley, Ian Webster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/11

fulton333 - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Charlie Edwards, Jojo Mills

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/11

Thought this was harder than eagle's nest direct... could have strayed onto something else.
ruaidh - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Jonah

tom_holdsworth - 2nd - 20/Apr/11 with Owen Larsen

go rt under roof then up. poor description
timmsy - AltLd - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - Sep/10

Hidden - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - 02/Aug/10

Moves are very technical. easily severe about 4a, but well protected.
biggianthead - 31/May/10 with T, G

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Pete

Hidden - 2010

alancash100 - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Nov/09

Great rock, led P2
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/09

led 1st
tiga271 - AltLd - 14/Sep/09 with mark20

Mark Salter - Lead - 08/Jun/09 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09

Led P3. First lead after op. In latest guide is grade Severe and 3 stars. P2 certainly severe, P3 also initially committing, then quite delicate
Andysomething - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Bruce Perry and Norman Bennett

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

Orlov - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Gaynor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/07

Excellent. Just as good as Needle Ridge but far less polished. The second pitch is particularly good
alexanderpatton - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Cath Moir

stewart murray - 2006

This is a great route and quite exciting and difficult for the grade. Until the recent guidebook came out it got V Diff! I still think MVS would be nearer the mark. Both pitch 2 and 3 are worth 4b and have some bold moments.
Rog Wilko - Lead - May/04 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - Mar/02

Hidden - Jun/01

Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - Jul/99 with Mike

Raggar - AltLd - 16/Jun/96 with Andy J

ed woods - 2nd - 1995 with Rob, Claire & Winnick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/94

Iain Thow - Lead - 03/Oct/87 with Phil Moorey

Hammy - Lead - 01/Aug/82

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 1982

Hidden - Apr/76

Hidden - AltLd - 1971

Hidden - Aug/65

Hidden - 1960

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chris1234H, David Wynne, teh_mark, pc1983, Sparrowmonkey, Conor1, ayuplass, jayme, Warren Earle

Total votes cast 20
hard HS0 of 11
HS0 of 11
easy HS0 of 11
hard S0 of 11
S0 of 11
easy S0 of 11
hard HVD4 of 11
HVD2 of 11
easy HVD4 of 11
hard VD0 of 11
VD1 of 11
easy VD0 of 11
3 Stars3 of 9
2 Stars5 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat