UKC

58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing and positions. Start at a cleft below the buttress reached via the Climbers' Traverse from The Dress Circle.
1) 18m. Climb up above the narrow gap then move right and follow a crack to a stance on a ledge.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb up to a ledge with grass and traverse left for 4m. Now climb up for 5m and traverse right, under an overhang, to an arete. Climb this to a big ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 18m. Climb up blocks right of the grassy gully, then a corner, to gain the stance at the end of pitch 3 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary.
4) 15m. Pitch 4 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary.
5) 40m. Pitch 5 of Eagle's Nest Ordinary. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Good climbing with a devious and intimidating second pitch. Start from the foot of the buttress in a squeeze chimney (Fat Man's Agony) formed by a large detached flake.
1.) 20m, climb the chimney and up to a ledge, step right and follow a steep crack to a ledge.
2.) 20m, ascend the steep rock above to a wide ledge at 5m. Traverse left for 5m then go straight up for 8m, where a traverse back right below an overhang can be made onto an arete that leads onto good holds to a large ledge.
3.) 18m, the crack on the left followed by the left corner of the buttress are climbed to a junction with Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route.

F Botterill, J de V Hazard Apr/1909.

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Mountain Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification

Feedback

User Date Notes
alan moore 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 3; Wired says “the crack on the left” above the cracked blocks. It’s actually the (corner) crack on the right, which has loose flakes and may we’ll be the crux.
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 3; Wired says “the crack on the left” above the cracked blocks. It’s actually the (corner) crack on the right, which has loose flakes and may we’ll be the crux.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Kennel Wall

Grade: S 4a ***
(Gouther Crags)

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