Abbey Buttress** VD
[Pitch 2 Abbey Buttress - below the crux moves  , 3 kb]58m, 3 pitches. Good climbing with a devious and intimidating second pitch. Start from the foot of the buttress in a squeeze chimney (Fat Man's Agony) formed by a large detached flake.
1.) 20m, climb the chimney and up to a ledge, step right and follow a steep crack to a ledge.
2.) 20m, ascend the steep rock above to a wide ledge at 5m. Traverse left for 5m then go straight up for 8m, where a traverse back right below an overhang can be made onto an arete that leads onto good holds to a large ledge.
3.) 18m, the crack on the left followed by the left corner of the buttress are climbed to a junction with Eagle's Nest Ordinary Route.
F Botterill, J de V Hazard Apr/1909

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock.

Photo: Pitch 2 Abbey Buttress - below the crux moves © Andysomething
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This climb is in 59 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14

Jontro - AltLd - 31/May/14 with Adam Newsom

ned_85 - AltLd - 03/May/14 with Emily Bridger

erbridger - AltLd - 03/May/14 with nedly14

Allanfairfechan - 2014

After long walk-in from Honister Pass. May have gone off route for a bit near the top.
MikeLell - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/13

chris smith - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13

colin smith - AltLd - 21/Sep/12 with Sarah Kekus

Jenny Hall - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with tom wood, Louis

Sam Marks - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/12 with Matt Capsey

Led P1 & P3. Went direct through overhang at start of P3 for interest.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Dave Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jun/12

Lois lead fitst, second pitch felt hard for grade, but was interesting, abbed off at second belay
Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Lois Barratt

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jul/11

Trobbo - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with andy hartley

iwebster59017 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Carl Sunley, kirsty Brown

Kirsty810202 - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with Carl Sunley, Ian Webster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/11

fulton333 - Lead - 02/Jul/11 with Charlie Edwards, Jojo Mills

We started this a little too late in the day, ended up getting quite stuck / lost --A great day!
Charlie Edwards - 2nd - 01/Jul/11 with Jojo Mills, Grant Fulton

Thought this was harder than eagle's nest direct... could have strayed onto something else.
ruaidh - AltLd - 29/Apr/11 with Jonah

tom_holdsworth - 2nd - 20/Apr/11 with Owen Larsen

go rt under roof then up. poor description
timmsy - AltLd - 27/Mar/11

Hidden - Sep/10

Hidden - 15/Aug/10

Hidden - 02/Aug/10

Moves are very technical. easily severe about 4a, but well protected.
biggianthead - 31/May/10 with T, G

gordon henderson - AltLd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Pete

Hidden - 2010

alancash100 - AltLd - 2010

Hidden - Lead - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Nov/09

Great rock, led P2
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/09

led 1st
tiga271 - AltLd - 14/Sep/09 with mark20

Mark Salter - Lead - 08/Jun/09 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/09

Led P3. First lead after op. In latest guide is grade Severe and 3 stars. P2 certainly severe, P3 also initially committing, then quite delicate
Andysomething - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/09 with Bruce Perry and Norman Bennett

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/09

Orlov - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Gaynor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/07

Excellent. Just as good as Needle Ridge but far less polished. The second pitch is particularly good
alexanderpatton - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/06 with Cath Moir

stewart murray - 2006

This is a great route and quite exciting and difficult for the grade. Until the recent guidebook came out it got V Diff! I still think MVS would be nearer the mark. Both pitch 2 and 3 are worth 4b and have some bold moments.
Rog Wilko - Lead - May/04 with Debbie Wilkinson

Hidden - Mar/02

Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - Jul/99 with Mike

Raggar - AltLd - 16/Jun/96 with Andy J

ed woods - 2nd - 1995 with Rob, Claire & Winnick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/94

Iain Thow - Lead - 03/Oct/87 with Phil Moorey

Hammy - Lead - 01/Aug/82

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Solo - 1982

Hidden - Apr/76

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1971 with FMC

Hidden - Aug/65

Hidden - 1960

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Chris1234H, David Wynne, teh_mark, pc1983, Sparrowmonkey, Conor1, ayuplass, jayme, Warren Earle

Total votes cast 17
hard HVD3 of 9
HVD1 of 9
easy HVD4 of 9
hard VD0 of 9
VD1 of 9
easy VD0 of 9
hard HD0 of 9
HD0 of 9
easy HD0 of 9
3 Stars3 of 8
2 Stars5 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S