Mouthpiece** E1 5c

Rockfax Description
An excellent counter-diagonal that is often overlooked. From the top of Inaccessible Slab monkey leftwards across the roof to the rest on Kelly's block then finish direct with difficulty. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Direct through the roof of Kelly's Overhang.
(Given HVS 5b by Rockfax)

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This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Fell of to start second try
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 31/Jul/15 with Rob smith

dr_botnik - Lead dnf - 30/Jul/15 with Andy

Wouldn't commit to overhang so finished up Inaccessible Crack Direct.
Gudge - Lead dnf - 23/Jul/15 with Coel Hellier

Luke90 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/15 with Liz

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Jul/15

Lead the powerful lower crux but fell off the top slab. Seconded it OK once shown the sidepull. Would be a monumental sandbag at HVS - a grade harder than Kelly's.
Tubs - 2nd RP - 12/Jul/15 with Ian L

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/May/15

keith leonard - 2nd - 2015

simon kimber - 2nd - 02/Nov/14 with Rich Howell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

tim_mcd - Lead dnf - 24/Aug/14 with Manchi

Thought it felt hard for HVS (as in Eastern Grit). Finished up Kelly's as the left hand side looked well ard
Mowglee - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Marita

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13

08nbrierley - 2nd dog - 28/Sep/13 with Jacob, jamie

Hidden - Lead dog - 28/Sep/13

I've no idea why it's E2 on here but means I came away with far more E points than Ralph so who cares!
Thinker01 - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with RFWilkie

Why is this in here at E2? Its not E2 in any guide and is actually easy at E1!
RFWilkie - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Mark

Good varied route, the start on Inaccessible slab is no push over. The hand traverse is exciting and the top wall is terrifyingly balancy. One good hold on the upper wall would make this a classic HVS. As it is it felt like a tough E1.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Chris, Will

E1 in definitive and I wouldn't argue with that. Nice route.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13

Ha ha, it's HVS 5b in the Eastern Grit book! Set it up for students to have a go, no one could get to the join with Kelly's, so i had a go. Clean till Kelly's then lowered off.
Zoomer - TR dnf - 03/Jun/13 with A Student

Easy E2 5c and a pump fest at that .
Diggler - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/12 with Johnny

No way is this HVS as given by Rockfax, tough E1 at the easiest as given by the latest guide though probably 5c. Brilliant route mind, which appears to have been overlooked by its "classic" neighbour as probably worth a couple of stars.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/12 with Mike Tutt

pmurdy - Lead RP - 27/Mar/12 with Nick P

Nick1812P - 2nd O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Paul

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 17/Aug/11

Adam Potter - 2nd - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Jun/11

JRae - Lead - 31/May/11 with A Saul, C Middleton

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 04/Sep/10

tigertim - Lead O/S - Aug/10 with Steve Cousins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead - 13/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/07

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/99 with Iain Fisher

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jun/97

Hidden - Lead - 1993

charlesmfrench - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/91

Hidden - Lead - 30/Oct/88

Carl Hamer - 2nd O/S - 1987

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
khalidq, Guy Bennell, rogersavery

Total votes cast 39
hard E20 of 14
E25 of 14
easy E21 of 14
hard E14 of 14
E12 of 14
easy E12 of 14
hard HVS0 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS0 of 14
hard 6a0 of 14
6a0 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
hard 5c1 of 14
5c8 of 14
easy 5c1 of 14
hard 5b2 of 14
5b2 of 14
easy 5b0 of 14
3 Stars0 of 11
2 Stars8 of 11
1 Star3 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP