Rockfax Description
A worthwhile pitch that is high in the grade. Start below a very thin crack right of the start of Gneiss Gnome.
Climb the crack past a quartz band to a ledge and flake. Move off of the flake and follow a seam and slab to meet a horizontal finger-crack. Finish up the left margin of the slab above and move right to a ledge and flake belay. Scramble off left. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Jelly Mould Surfer 06/Sep Lead O/S

Rock fax has it high in the grade - but I reckon standard HVS is right

supersouthward 02/Aug -
with Selen Thyssen
Hidden 02/Aug Lead
Wendy 02/Aug Lead O/S
with Tom Ball
Lewis Stewart 02/Aug 2nd O/S
with Claire
tom s g 22/Jul Lead O/S
with Fred Graham
Hidden 09/Jul 2nd O/S
Alison Cairns 07/Jul Lead rpt

A thin start with not much gear then steady above.

with Andy
Hidden 07/Jul Lead
tim.fairhall 30/Jun Lead O/S
with Tommy
saxdonkey 30/Jun 2nd dog

Thrown off by disco-leg!

Sam Simpson 25/May Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May 2nd O/S
Wendy Watthews 23/Mar Lead rpt
with joe c
JoeCoxson 23/Mar 2nd O/S

Some tricky moves, great long route.

Hidden ??/2015 -
Lumbering Oaf 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
manbat 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Much harder than Saxon, I thought. Sustained 5a most of the way, with many tricky moves above gear. Great route though, and very enjoyable.

Joel Perkin 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Bit harder than Saxon, and not quite as good. Still excellent!

with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice route.

Okecroak 08/Jun/14 Lead
with J. Homewood
Jack J Keogan 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Milton Wakefield
Hidden 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Dan Lane 22/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Superb stuff. Harder and more sustained that Saxon, but also more escapable. The climbing is just as good but the proximity to Gneiss Gnome detracts a little. Recommended!

with Colin Foord
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
twem 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Nicholas Eaton
Simon Alden 15/May/13 2nd O/S
with Richard Wheeldon
rd20 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Patrick
cymjt ??/2013 -
Jim Slater 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Joby 23/Jun/12 Lead O/S

good climbing but pretty thin on gear and holds

with Mike Hooper
mike hooper 23/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Still dealing with man.flew

with jobey martin
jakenichol 13/May/12 Lead

Upper section very run-out. Initial crack from ground is dubious and thin

with Martin Cathrow
Hidden 06/May/12 2nd O/S
monsteratt 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this interesting climbing all the way! Nice to be able to take my time...hard on the toes though

with Chris Goddard
cem 06/Apr/12 2nd rpt
arandall 21/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 21/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/11 TR O/S
Marti999 10/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Graham C 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Marti
Hidden 04/Aug/11 2nd
Dizz 22/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with Richard S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
masa-alpin 29/Apr/11 2nd β

Jo lead it - her first HVS lead after a long break.

with Jo B, Doug S
victim of mathematics 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Hard. Tricky route finding and technical moves. Much harder than Saxon.

crossdressingrodney 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Vague line around the crux. Tricky.

jchenoweth 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Charlie Jeynes
erinbastian 09/Jan/11 2nd
with martin
andybenham 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Followed Jeremy up something approximating this moving briefly into the corner of Gneiss Gnome half way up then finishing somewhere between the two routes up a loose chossy wall. About VS 4c like this. Some brittle rock low down.

Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead
Norman_P_W 29/Aug/10 2nd
with Bob M
Nel Tindale 28/Aug/10 2nd β
with Jim Jarvis
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd
Will Hunt 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
steve2006 ?/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
misterb 11/Oct/09 2nd
with simon
jon thompson27 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with simon mayell
cem 11/Apr/04 2nd
goi.ashmore 24/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
Roget 15/Aug/99 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/97 2nd
Andy Say 02/Jun/94 2nd
Nigel Coe ??/1994 -
Hidden ??/1994 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1981 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
johnpr, Dilwat
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 21
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set