Derbyshire > Stanage Plantation >
 
Saul's Arete* VS 4b

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22m. Traverse the break and climb the fine upper arete. © ROCKFAX
G.Dimmock 1965

Ticklists: Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 92 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Brown - Solo - 09/Mar/14 with Lily

vanderz - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/14 with Graham Plant

hvs 4c
the power - 2nd - 07/Nov/13 with rob

More like HVS at other crags. Was thinking of escaping off at top then Leo Holding popped his head over, decided I couldn't fluff a VS in front of him and pulled through to top.
dr_botnik - Lead O/S - 07/Nov/13 with Phil Taylor

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Sep/13

Nails for the grade.
Jackwd - Lead dog - 30/Sep/13 with Rob Smith, Scott

David Kay - 2nd - 14/Sep/13 with Moritz Lesserman

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/13

Pretty cool traverse onto the arete.
khalidq - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Cameron McLoughlin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/May/13

Fell off the traverse so ended up swinging onto Archangel and following the arete to the top!
sheelba - 2nd dog - 20/Apr/13

MAde me jiber on solo took me a while for adrenalin to subside before finishing:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Solo - 02/Mar/13

followed after it wimped out of travers
LukeP LCC - 2nd - 11/Nov/12 with steve kirman

rustaldo - Solo O/S - 02/Nov/12

Tim Rodgers - Lead - 20/Oct/12 with Mark Anstiss

rd20 - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Hilary CC

Found this really hard!
Laurence Cowton - 2nd dog - 07/Oct/12 with Vince

SteWatkins - Sep/12

Haydn Jones - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with julia

Julia Chatterton - 2nd - 18/Aug/12 with Hayden

sazmaz - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/12 with Dan Lanchester-Wright

traverse felt quiet hard
JanBella - TR dog - 25/Jul/12 with matt

psychomansam - Lead - 19/Jun/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/12

Fine lead, Nik! Felt a lot harder - and bolder! - than Fina (HVS 5b)
JohnHutch - 2nd - 11/Jun/12 with Nik H

buxtoncoffeelover - Lead - 11/Jun/12

What a gem of a route, just need to grow a pair for the direct start now!
slacky - Lead O/S - 22/May/12 with Ben

Oliver Houston - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Sarah

Bottled at the top due to a distinct lack of any substantial gear and still being gripped from a near fall from the arete after standing on my rope. Finished onto Goliath's Groove. This is a great route, ***?, and ridiculously under graded at VS 4b. Definitely HVS 4c
Steve Perry - Lead - 12/May/12 with Katie Long

Katie Long - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Steve Perry

great climbing, think VS 4c though.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/12 with john Bramwell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Mar/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 20/Nov/11

Roget - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with robin, jim

rich_hw - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/11 with MartinWilliams87

4b my a*se. Good fun though.
Batt - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with James Hoyes

Hoyes - Lead - 09/Aug/11 with Rachel B

quite fun.
JamieSparkes - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/11 with allyrocke, Liam Ingram

Maybe HVS 4c. Hand traverse harder than Ellis's Eliminate.
Liam Ingram - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/11 with Jamie Sparkes

Fun route.
Alex Thompson - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with JP

airy hand traverse!
thedatastream - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/11

kermit_uk - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/11 with Ian, Steve Woolass

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 10/May/11 with John Bramwell

David Smith - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Hidden - 13/Oct/10

kevp - Lead - 12/Oct/10

lovely route. Don't hang around on the traverse.
pastep - Lead - 26/Sep/10 with Tibor

max_chan - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Steve PCC

pretty gripping, thought the traverse was going to be the crux but found the arete above to be tough.
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/10 with Jimbo C

Took the opportunity to go direct up the wall at the top. Goes at about 5a and is worth doing
Jimbo C - 2nd - 11/Aug/10 with Gethin

Feels run out between the good break on the arete to the ledge - a fall from just below the ledge would hurt.
Tadams - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Tony Topping, Giles Walton

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Aug/10

most underated route on stanage ?
colin milton - Lead - 08/Aug/10 with little vic

laughable grading - climb this and Topsail at Birchen and tell me they're the same grade. More like HVS 4c.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10 with Claire's mate Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10

tdan0504 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Bat Casale

Tough for VS
jadm2 - 2nd dog - 21/May/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/10

jubolo - 2nd - 16/Apr/10 with JIm

Needed tension to complete the traverse at the third time of asking. Was then too ridiculousy gripped to enjoy the arete which puts you in a great position with lovely moves.
D Berry - 2nd dog - 28/Mar/10 with jimmynomatesvsmarines

gazfellows - Lead - 13/Mar/10

basvdploeg - 2010

RossG - 2010

Hidden - Dec/09

dave657 - Solo O/S - 13/Oct/09

This one's a beauty. Once I got the nerve up to do the traverse all was good. I found this route to be quite bold but the holds are there when you need them.
Lumbering Oaf - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with James Hoyes

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09

This is a superb climb - how its been left out of some guidebooks, I don't understand. Superb poisitions, continuously interesting moves on faultless rock - what more do you want? However, VS 4b is definitely a bit on the low side; I'd say its a solid VS4c, and not low in the grade at that. More to the point, its a better route than many 2 star routes. Do it before it gets polished - at the moment, its hardly 'worn' at all.
djones66 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Mark Jones

Piers Harley - 2nd - 02/Aug/09 with Paul Winder

Pilch - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/09 with Graham

Tom_Harding - 2nd O/S - May/09 with Mat

Felt hard for VS, especially in the gale force winds! Climbed up the (clean) part of the groove, placed some gear round the corner. Moved around and sat on one foot on the arete, placed some more gear at full reach, retreated back, went back, couldnt quite reach it to clip, moved back, went round, clipped the gear, and kept on moving. There was a bit of a break lower down which was useful, then its just a case of swinging along with practically no footholds until the pocket for your right foot. Reach the arete and there is some lovely jams in the break and a nice ledge round the right. Took a moment and went up the juggy arete, almost barn-doored off. Got up to the overhang, and suddenly it got REALLY windy, could barely move. When the wind dropped, I almost went up and left over the roof but again got pummeled by the wind, couldn't get any more gear in so decided it wasn't worth it and retreated round right to finish easily. Appereantly I don't own this route...
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Tom Dixon, Michael, Becca

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/09

Simon Holden (LCandCC) - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/08 with Murray

Peetzy - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/08

Tough traverse
Shauna - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/08 with Duz

Griper, took me 40 mins to do, enjoyed every one of them!
laurencehicks - Lead O/S - 17/May/08 with kev

Felt quite tough for the grade to me - haqrdish VS 4c,not 4b. And really good too. A better and harder vrsion of Ellis' Eliminate, no idea why its so overlooked - presumably because it starts from Helfensteins!
Si dH - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Mark

PanzerHanzler - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/08 with Pat Holborn

tjmillen - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Nov/07

Gman - Lead O/S - Jun/05 with Eamon

Stig - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/04 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

nigehughes - Lead - Jul/82 with Phil James

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai, Michael Hood, Hidden, Sam Cooke

Voting
Total votes cast 97
hard HVS0 of 34
HVS2 of 34
easy HVS9 of 34
hard VS20 of 34
VS2 of 34
easy VS1 of 34
hard HS0 of 34
HS0 of 34
easy HS0 of 34
hard 4c0 of 34
4c2 of 34
easy 4c29 of 34
hard 4b2 of 34
4b1 of 34
easy 4b0 of 34
hard 4a0 of 34
4a0 of 34
easy 4a0 of 34
3 Stars13 of 29
2 Stars12 of 29
1 Star4 of 29
0 Stars0 of 29
Bag of .....0 of 29
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 92 (5.4%)
Lead45 of 92 (48.9%)
Followed32 of 92 (34.8%)
Toproped1 of 92 (1.1%)
Unknown9 of 92 (9.8%)

'Climbed'32 of 92 (34.8%)
clean O/S50 of 92 (54.3%)
clean rpt1 of 92 (1.1%)
dogged8 of 92 (8.7%)
dnf1 of 92 (1.1%)