Beowulf** E2 5c
[Awkward "4c" traverse at top of pitch 1 of Beowulf., 2 kb]A shy classic that features some precarious, technical groove climbing on immaculate rock. Start at the base of the reddish left-slanting rake.. 1) 4c, 29m. Follow the reddish rake for a few metres before branching up right to enter the base of a large overhung niche. Climb up the back of the niche and make a trying traverse right to easier ground and block-belays. An awkward pitch.. 2) 5c, 20m. Traverse left along the top of the overhung niche past a back streak and pull into a slim groove. Climb the technical groove past a peg to a ledge and than make more hard moves left and up another groove to a belay ledge.. 3) 5c, 20m. From the left-hand end of the belay ledge climb leftwards with difficulty to easier-angled ground and finish up cracks and grooves. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: Awkward "4c" traverse at top of pitch 1 of Beowulf. © Brian H
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 93 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Sep/14

Claudia lead P1 up to before the traverse. I took over, then started leading P2. In the end I could not commit to the move above the Suicide Wall P3 ledge (I think I am short of reach to the crucial hold), and escaped to P4 of Suicide Wall, hanging on gear. We took P5 of Suicide Wall to top out almost in the dark.
masa-alpin - AltLd dnf - 23/Aug/14 with Claudia

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/14

Technical and bold. Sue led P1, belaying in the bay, which meant I had to traverse out right and then back left on P2 but it worked out fine with extenders. The groove on P2 was pretty pokey - precarious technical moves above micros. Higher up, the sequence to get off the break shared with Suicide Wall involved a couple of tricky moves but better protected and easier than the Suicide Wall crux next door. I led P3 as well, which was also bold on the crux - good nut well to the side and a couple of fairly hard moves to get established. A good route which requires a good head.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Sue

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/14

Led p2 - great rock, great route.
Brian H - AltLd rpt - 08/Jun/14 with Kafoozalem

P2 - I felt short on it. Need really small wires. Got some encouragement from a kind passing climber.
eddy-on-the-rocks - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/14 with max

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hot Hot Hot. Pitch 2 took me by surprise! Poor gear in the groove (No Peg?) Big lob potential.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant

P1,3
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Fiila

Dizz - AltLd - 23/Jun/13 with EJ

drysori - AltLd - 17/May/13 with Davor

P2. No peg in groove. Crux protected by small wires.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Lee Mercer

clipskipper - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Ed Babington

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/12

Pete Graham - AltLd - Apr/12 with Rick Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Led all pitches
pete3685 - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/11

lead 2nd pitch! was excellent!
adam cooper*super* - AltLd O/S - 04/Aug/11 with jack folland

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/11 with adam cooper* super*

gowla - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with will kumar

Found 2nd pitch very hard and took a long time. Abbed off from Suicide wall belay.
Bobby Gilbert - Lead dnf - 19/May/11 with Paul Abram

drcorbasisgod - AltLd - 30/Apr/11 with Charles Moreton

Led p1. Chris decided to finish up Suicide Wall after taking a big lob off p2
cem - AltLd dnf - 30/Apr/11 with Chris Parson

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/11 with helen gibson

bloody brilliant. first pitch at least 5a, not 4c as in guide.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with Alan

Hidden - 2011

Rory Shaw - 2011

Alex T (RAFMA) - AltLd dnf - 29/Aug/10 with Rimon

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 28/Jul/10

first pitch
Little AndyH - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Apr/10

Hidden - 2010

Richard Horn - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/09

Very hard and tiring!
shane54 - Lead O/S - Aug/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09

Led both 5c pitches as one, rope drag became a problem.
Bern - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Andy Mos

Excellent route, with lots of technical moves to figure out and some fiddly gear to keep you on your toes! Top pitch much easier, more like 5b and only one move? Three stars??
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 30/Aug/08 with Jonny M

Matt Bennett - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/08

jfreeman - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/08 with Simon Robinson

simonr - AltLd - 08/Jun/08 with Jon Freeman

HughM - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with David Barlow

Led the 5c pitches. Nice climb, a couple of bold moves on both of the hard pitches. The crux is the polished nastiness that is Suicide Wall!
drysori - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Jun/07

1
Sidekick - AltLd O/S - Jun/07

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 19/May/07 with Bez

climber sim - 2007

led second 5c pitch - delicate bridging
Ram MkiV - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/06 with Mike Grant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jun/06

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Ash

reg_measures - AltLd O/S - 29/May/06 with timmy elson

feilx - Lead O/S - 13/May/06 with keith

wojt - Lead - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/05

Hidden - Lead - 18/Sep/05

lukea - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/05 with Al

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/05

Andy2 - 2005

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 2005 with Mark Calver

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Apr/04

peterbeaumont - Lead - Jul/02

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/02 with Chris Reid

Chris Reid - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/02 with Paul Tanton

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/00 with jon

Hidden - 03/Jun/00

Hidden - Jan/00

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Pitch 2 felt epic! I have since learnt that there is a hidden wire if you lean out the the right and peek round the corner halfway up the groove! That would have really helped!
andy_pemberton - Lead - Jun/97 with Chris Clarke

belay bunny turned bad - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 1996

Nick Biven - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/93 with Rich Whitwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/92

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/91

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/90

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/88 with Mike Waters

Started raining so I finished up Suicide Wall's top pitch.
Nigel Coe - AltLd dnf - 30/May/88 with Keith Marsdon

scree - May/88 with Dave H

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/85

Hidden - AltLd - May/85

jasper11 - Lead - 1985

2,L,2.
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/84 with Ian Milne

Hidden - AltLd - 1982

Mike Owen - 13/Aug/80 with Elaine Watson

Paul Clarke - 1980 with Others, FMC

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexanderjwatts, Dean177, jelaby, Ian Jones, nickstephens, clive-greenwood, Master Chief, a_radiohead_fan

Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E30 of 19
E30 of 19
easy E31 of 19
hard E24 of 19
E214 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E10 of 19
easy E10 of 19
hard 6a0 of 19
6a0 of 19
easy 6a0 of 19
hard 5c10 of 19
5c9 of 19
easy 5c0 of 19
hard 5b0 of 19
5b0 of 19
easy 5b0 of 19
3 Stars15 of 18
2 Stars3 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
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Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean rpt
dogged
dnf