Rockfax Description
Wildly exposed moves in an outrageous location mark out the top pitch of this intimidating line. Start at an easy-angled line of weakness that runs up rightwards to beneath a black wall known as the Coal Face.
1) 5a, 30m. Follow the line of weakness rightwards for around 10m until a direct line can be taken past a groove, ledge and corner to a stance on the arete at a large block - the Pedestal stance. The left arete of 'The Coal Face' can also be climbed to the stance and belay, at the same grade.
2) 5b, 28m. Climb up a thin crack in the Coal Face to the first overhangs. Traverse left and move up a groove to a slab that leads to below the upper overhangs. Make committing and very exposed moves out rightwards past an old peg to a sudden easing and a stance above.
3) 10m. The easy wall above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Hidden 06/Sep Lead O/S
LJC 27/Jun Lead O/S

P1, then abbed from pinnacle stance due to seriously greasy conditions.

with Will
pearson9596 23/May AltLd O/S
ian d f 23/May AltLd O/S

led p2 & 3

Hidden 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Matthew Robinson 08/Aug/14 AltLd
with Luke
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 22/Jul/14 Lead O/S


with Jemma Powell
Ewan Russell 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd which was nearly as greasy as my face. URGH

with Tom Nichols
Anusky 24/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
kingholmesy ??/2014 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & p2. A cold and windy but beautiful November day.

with Colin
Ed Babs 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

P2 + 3. Ace

with AlexD
AlexD 18/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Bristoldave 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with justin
Justin T 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S


with Dave
Nigel Coe 28/May/13 Lead dnf

Pitch 2 was wet so we down-climbed Suicide Wall.

with Tim Dunsby
Misha 15/May/13 AltLd O/S

With Davor on the BMC international meet - he led the business pitch. Perhaps it's the difference between leading and seconding but I didn't think it warranted more than the top end E2 5b that Bow Wall's main pitch gets. Great climbing all the way. Davor did P2&3 in one.

with Davor
drysori 13/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route.

with Viktor
Pieterjan De Roo 13/May/13 AltLd O/S
msoldn 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch, wild wild wild!!! wet undercuts and smeary polished footholds made this airy travers feel very much touch and go. Fabulous outing!

with Johannes
Hidden 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 20/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with loundsy
Jen Crook 28/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/12 AltLd
Mike W 09/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with bigrob
Hidden 29/Jun/12 2nd dnf
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Pete Graham 28/Feb/12 AltLd
with Ben Silvestre
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 23/Jun/11 2nd O/S


with Tom, Mike
thomasadixon 22/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the crux pitch. Pure class, felt soft for the E grade tho long legged Mike said it was nails. Best route I've done on this crag.

colesy 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tuftynick 30/May/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead
quiffhanger 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
nick arding 18/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with rob pitt
Rob Pitt 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led 4c pitch

with Nick Arding
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Jul/10 2nd

Led in the early 90s

with Matt Ward
Brown 19/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Little AndyH 16/Jun/10 AltLd

first pitch

Hidden 16/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
jacobjacob 12/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead the middle pitch, the traverse puts you in an amazing position!

eddy-on-the-rocks 23/May/10 Lead O/S

Lots of long slings and cams form small to size 2 useful. Grand.

with max
Harald 14/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/10 2nd
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Luke Brooks 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
Bobby Gilbert 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Can't remember exact date but summer 2009

with Alan Dovey
Bern 24/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Andy Mos
HughM ?/Jun/08 2nd dog
with David Barlow
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
tuftynick ??/2008 -
chris j 05/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

2nded 5b pitch, awesome route!

with Ben Bradford
KRB 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Great positions - looks harder than it is

with Martin Bridges
climber sim ??/2007 -
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Hal Watts
hal ?/Jun/06 AltLd dog
with Virgil Scott
feilx 13/May/06 Lead rpt
with keith
Hidden 05/May/06 Lead O/S
leadmat ??/2006 Lead
wojt ??/2006 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Mark Calver
Hidden 21/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd dog
PaulTanton 03/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
Chris Reid 03/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Paul Tanton
jfletcher 27/May/01 Lead
JulesV ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/00 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
Steve Crowe 14/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with KM
Si Clapham ??/1998 Lead
with Moggs
DavidBarraclough ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden 21/May/95 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 24/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
sdht ??/1994 2nd
with Andy Stotesbury
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
Nick Biven 31/Dec/91 AltLd O/S

Rich lead crux pitch

with Rich Whitwell
keefe 25/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 25/May/91 -
with keefe
Hidden 27/Mar/91 2nd
Hidden 08/Sep/90 2nd
bullybones ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 -
Bruce Kerr 12/Jul/89 2nd
with Keith Turton
Campbell42 02/Aug/88 AltLd O/S
with Mike Waters
Billg 10/Aug/87 2nd
with Keith Sharples
Neil R 24/May/87 2nd
with Ian
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
charlesmfrench 28/Jul/85 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
Hidden 04/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1982 Lead
Roy Stuart ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Billy Bones
Hammy 13/Aug/81 2nd
with Rob Lawson
Mark Kemball 23/Apr/81 Lead
with Bill McKee
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 26/May/79 2nd β
with Gavin Peat
steve L 27/Nov/76 AltLd
with sharpie
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Pathological_Climber, Phil Ingle, Dean177, Hidden, Ian Jones, Hidden, Dan_Carroll, Master Chief, lukea, rob askew, a_radiohead_fan, Hidden
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
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