Cornwall > Trewavas Head Main Cliff >
 
West Wing*** E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< South Groove
 
The Serpent >>
[poised boulder, 2 kb]A wildly exposed prow is preceded by a deceptively technical groove. Start below a groove on the seaward face just left of the rounded arete. Photo on page 282. 23m. Make a committing semi-mantel to get established at the base of the groove. Climb the technical groove to where it eases, then traverse a break rightwards to below an overhang on the edge of the exposed prow. Pull through the overhang and move up the short wall to the summit of the prow - belay advisable here. Step across the gap back onto the main crag and the top just above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Photo: poised boulder © carlgodfrey
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 58 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Chris Joyce - 2nd dog - 14/Sep/13 with Ewan Thomson

First E2. Great route of two tales. Groove is much harder than it looks but just have to trust your feet and keep moving up. Good rest and then that magnificent top section. ...
ewanthomson - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Chris Joyce

Thought I'd be able to warm up on the innocuous looking start which turned out to be far harder than it looks. Technical then exposed climbing followed, pleased to get this onsight.
MD - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Jo, Misha

Technical groove start but swing out onto face fantastic. Rope around nose halted clean pull up to finish. Darn it! So close.
Happy Wanderer - 2nd dog - 26/Aug/13 with Misha, Mike D

Nice route with tricky technical moves. Far harder than it looks to get onto the initial ledge and up the groove but the overhang is fairly straightforward 5a/b jug hauling but spectacular nonetheless. Plus you get to tick a mini summit!
Misha - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Jo, Mike D

Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove)followed by an HVS finale. Should really be E1 though that might just be sour grapes as I led South Groove earlier in the Day an only got an E1 tick for my efforts.
Julesthe1st - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Mike

wow what a climb the groove is so deceptive and that wild swing out is memorable
dready - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/13 with whiteexplorer

Led after Sue. Easy to commit to finish once 'jugs up there' was confirmed, crux groove much harder than looks and uses muscles you don't usually use climbing
Owen W-G - Lead β - 15/Aug/13 with Purple Sue

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/13

Mike W - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/13

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Jul/13 with Clare

morganator - 2nd - 15/May/13 with International Meet Guest

Surprising as I thought would struggle on observation. Recalled tips from Mark (met at Barn 9th April with Matt and NF) felt comfortable with exception on three quarter part of ascent, good hand holds but more slippy than Mouseproof, my smearing was poor, need to get more wall time in.
Cheziar - 2nd β - 16/Apr/13

SamChessell - 2nd dog - 31/May/12 with Dave Grant

gingerking - Lead dnf - May/12 with Tom Simpson

burto - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with hertha

Hardest climb yet - amazing route, great exposure, pumpy, and such a satisfying finish.
tiffanykate12 - 2nd - 08/Apr/12

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Baby D

Never again do I want to use the word 'take' knowing that the last 4 bits of gear are bad micros, i didn't bottle it, quite. Brilliant finish, and my first E2 5c.
arandall - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/12 with arandall

A great route of contrasting styles! 1st bit feels bold and technical with wonderful granite groove climbing. 2nd bit requires you to 'strap a pair on' and go for it! The below top tip of a #8 hex should be followed!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 15/Feb/12 with Rik Meek

Dave Heaton - Lead - 20/Jan/12 with James Forbes

Hidden - 2012

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Aiden

Incredibly desceptive crux grove when looked at from below. The overhanging prow felt straight forward and pure enjoyment. Fantastic end to a day that started with heavy showers.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Ceri

I pulled on a piece of gear to retrieve an awkward cam, but climbed it clean other than that. This looks really easy until you get on it, Excellent route!!!
Ceridwen - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/11 with Uber Mike

gowla - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with will kumar

Justin T - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

First E2, 1 fall.
mbradberry2008 - Lead dog - 29/May/11 with Johnny Dawes

James Mitchelmore - Lead O/S - 14/May/11

carlgodfrey - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

Fell from the crux and took HUGE swing :) got crux on second attempt. Very balancy smear bridging. Escaped left before final overhang. Excellent lead by masa. Not E2 though
gb83 - 2nd dnf - 24/Apr/11 with masa

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Nolan

The easiest E2 I have ever done, and I thought it was more likely to be HVS 5b. But my second Graeme said it would be definitely 5c, so perhaps he is right.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Graeme B

Technical groove, wild prow. Great route.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Beauty! i want it lead.
Jpsofishy - 2nd - 2011 with carlgodfrey

Really great route. Varied. Balancey and technical then overhanging. Lovely lead by Matt.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Matt Fry

Cool, didn't believe that the crux was the groove from the ground - very suprising! Got a no hands rest using a double knee bar at the roof! route of great contrast.
Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Andrea Hayslop

pielander - 2nd - 05/Aug/10 with pete saunders

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

The grades don't add up around here IMO. Surely either this is E1 or both this and South Groove are E2.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Clare

cakebrake - Lead - 2010

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Mark Glaister

Tim M - Lead - 04/May/09 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 04/May/09 with cheesesarnie

Not sure of exact date but early 2009
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Alan Dovey

Exposure & Steepness - not my usual scene but very very good.
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

jchenoweth - Lead RP - 12/Apr/09 with Charlie Jeynes

Awesome climb!!
Master Chief - Lead β - 12/May/08 with Jeremy

Master Chief - TR O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Jeremy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08

Jez - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Courtney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/03

JerryD - Lead - Aug/98

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Motown, RichardN, gingerking, Dean177, Hidden, Ropeboy, joese7en, Hidden, MikeT, ebunick

Voting
Total votes cast 70
hard E30 of 23
E30 of 23
easy E30 of 23
hard E20 of 23
E213 of 23
easy E26 of 23
hard E14 of 23
E10 of 23
easy E10 of 23
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a0 of 22
hard 5c3 of 22
5c19 of 22
easy 5c0 of 22
hard 5b0 of 22
5b0 of 22
easy 5b0 of 22
3 Stars17 of 25
2 Stars8 of 25
1 Star0 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Lead38 of 58 (65.5%)
Followed18 of 58 (31.0%)
Toproped1 of 58 (1.7%)
Unknown1 of 58 (1.7%)

'Climbed'12 of 58 (20.7%)
clean O/S33 of 58 (56.9%)
clean β3 of 58 (5.2%)
clean rpt1 of 58 (1.7%)
clean RP1 of 58 (1.7%)
dogged6 of 58 (10.3%)
dnf2 of 58 (3.4%)