Rockfax Description
A wildly exposed prow is preceded by a deceptively technical groove. Start below a groove on the seaward face just left of the rounded arete. Make a committing semi-mantel to get established at the base of the groove. Climb the technical groove to where it eases, then traverse a break rightwards to below an overhang on the edge of the exposed prow. Pull through the overhang and move up the short wall to the summit of the prow - belay advisable here. Step across the gap back onto the main crag and the top just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Hidden 03/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 23/Jun Lead rpt

Could repeat this route a million times, it'll never get boring. Groove is always harder than it looks.

with Aimee Jewitt-Harris
Aimee Louise 23/Jun 2nd

Super fun. Found the gully surprisingly easy, found the overhang surprisingly hard. Would love to repeat again after warming up better - my arms were so pumped I couldn't even hold my chalk ball! Thanks for the lead Coxson.

lukegorman 23/Jun Lead rpt
with Darren Pyke
tobydunford 13/Jun 2nd O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
danboast 13/Jun Lead O/S

First half is significantly trickier than it looks, followed by a surprisingly easy finish

Dave Rumney 28/May Lead

Looks innocuous from the ground, but its very absorbing. Took me a long time to get happy with the gear in the groove.

with Tanya Milner
Hidden 18/May Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar 2nd
Lizard Ollie 26/Mar 2nd O/S

Awesome route! Especially the top half - nice work Joe and Luke!

JoeCoxson 26/Mar Lead O/S

First E2, not even done an E1 before the first section, but the last bit is too good to miss. HVS on top of and E1 is a good analogy, the technical crux is definitely in the groove, but the exposure on the poised boulder is massive. Definitely 3 stars

lukegorman 26/Mar Lead β

climbed groove onsight but had previously rescued a friend that was failing to climb the overhang section.

fulton333 15/Feb Lead
with Aidan
jfane ??/2015 Lead O/S
Wevcore 20/Jul/14 2nd dog

The grove was impossible! The overhang was excellent!

with Rich
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
ewanthomson 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

First E2. Great route of two tales. Groove is much harder than it looks but just have to trust your feet and keep moving up. Good rest and then that magnificent top section. ...

with Chris Joyce
MD 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Thought I'd be able to warm up on the innocuous looking start which turned out to be far harder than it looks. Technical then exposed climbing followed, pleased to get this onsight.

with Jo, Misha
Happy Wanderer 26/Aug/13 2nd dog

Technical groove start but swing out onto face fantastic. Rope around nose halted clean pull up to finish. Darn it! So close.

Misha 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Nice route with tricky technical moves. Far harder than it looks to get onto the initial ledge and up the groove but the overhang is fairly straightforward 5a/b jug hauling but spectacular nonetheless. Plus you get to tick a mini summit!

with Jo, Mike D
Julesthe1st 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove)followed by an HVS finale. Should really be E1 though that might just be sour grapes as I led South Groove earlier in the Day an only got an E1 tick for my efforts.

with Mike
dready 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S

wow what a climb the groove is so deceptive and that wild swing out is memorable

Owen W-G 15/Aug/13 Lead β

Led after Sue. Easy to commit to finish once 'jugs up there' was confirmed, crux groove much harder than looks and uses muscles you don't usually use climbing

Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
morganator 15/May/13 2nd
with International Meet Guest
Cheziar 16/Apr/13 2nd β

Surprising as I thought would struggle on observation. Recalled tips from Mark (met at Barn 9th April with Matt and NF) felt comfortable with exception on three quarter part of ascent, good hand holds but more slippy than Mouseproof, my smearing was poor, need to get more wall time in.

tim.fairhall 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Hui
SamChessell 31/May/12 2nd dog
gingerking ?/May/12 Lead dnf
burto 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
tiffanykate12 08/Apr/12 2nd

Hardest climb yet - amazing route, great exposure, pumpy, and such a satisfying finish.

Dave89 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Baby D
arandall 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Never again do I want to use the word 'take' knowing that the last 4 bits of gear are bad micros, i didn't bottle it, quite. Brilliant finish, and my first E2 5c.

Wendy Watthews 19/Mar/12 2nd dog
andy_pemberton 15/Feb/12 Lead

A great route of contrasting styles! 1st bit feels bold and technical with wonderful granite groove climbing. 2nd bit requires you to 'strap a pair on' and go for it! The below top tip of a #8 hex should be followed!

with Rik Meek
Dave Heaton 20/Jan/12 Lead
with James Forbes
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Lewis Stewart 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Aiden
msoldn 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Incredibly desceptive crux grove when looked at from below. The overhanging prow felt straight forward and pure enjoyment. Fantastic end to a day that started with heavy showers.

with Ceri
Ceridwen 24/Aug/11 2nd dog

I pulled on a piece of gear to retrieve an awkward cam, but climbed it clean other than that. This looks really easy until you get on it, Excellent route!!!

with Uber Mike
gowla 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with will kumar
Justin T 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
mbradberry2008 29/May/11 Lead dog

First E2, 1 fall.

James Mitchelmore 14/May/11 Lead O/S
carlgodfrey 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
gb83 24/Apr/11 2nd dnf

Fell from the crux and took HUGE swing :) got crux on second attempt. Very balancy smear bridging. Escaped left before final overhang. Excellent lead by masa. Not E2 though

with masa
Popkids 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nolan
masa-alpin 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The easiest E2 I have ever done, and I thought it was more likely to be HVS 5b. But my second Graeme said it would be definitely 5c, so perhaps he is right.

mark20 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Technical groove, wild prow. Great route.

Jpsofishy ??/2011 2nd

Beauty! i want it lead.

andrea83 08/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Really great route. Varied. Balancey and technical then overhanging. Lovely lead by Matt.

Matt Fry 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Cool, didn't believe that the crux was the groove from the ground - very suprising! Got a no hands rest using a double knee bar at the roof! route of great contrast.

pielander 05/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

The grades don't add up around here IMO. Surely either this is E1 or both this and South Groove are E2.

with Clare
cakebrake ??/2010 Lead
Marti999 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Tim M 04/May/09 Lead
with Emma
climbergg 04/May/09 2nd
Bobby Gilbert 01/May/09 Lead O/S

Not sure of exact date but early 2009

with Alan Dovey
Oddjob 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Exposure & Steepness - not my usual scene but very very good.

Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Charlie Jeynes
Master Chief 12/May/08 Lead β

Awesome climb!!

with Jeremy
Master Chief 23/Apr/08 TR O/S
with Jeremy
Hidden 20/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Jez 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Courtney
Hidden 21/Apr/03 Lead O/S
jfletcher 15/Jul/01 Lead
with Charlotte Fletcher
JerryD ?/Aug/98 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, BenFitzG, maddy92, Hidden, Knut, mikedevcole, Hidden, Graham Booth, hutchay, Hidden, Motown, RichardN, gingerking, Dean177, Hidden, Ropeboy, joese7en, Hidden, MikeT, ebunick
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set