Cornwall > Trewavas Head Main Cliff >
 
West Wing*** E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< South Groove
 
The Serpent >>
[the crux, 3 kb]A wildly exposed prow is preceded by a deceptively technical groove. Start below a groove on the seaward face just left of the rounded arete. Photo on page 282. 23m. Make a committing semi-mantel to get established at the base of the groove. Climb the technical groove to where it eases, then traverse a break rightwards to below an overhang on the edge of the exposed prow. Pull through the overhang and move up the short wall to the summit of the prow - belay advisable here. Step across the gap back onto the main crag and the top just above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: the crux © pielander
View all 7 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 46 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

morganator - 2nd - 15/May/13 with International Meet Guest

Surprising as I thought would struggle on observation. Recalled tips from Mark (met at Barn 9th April with Matt and NF) felt comfortable with exception on three quarter part of ascent, good hand holds but more slippy than Mouseproof, my smearing was poor, need to get more wall time in.
Cheziar - 2nd β - 16/Apr/13

SamChessell - 2nd dog - 31/May/12 with Dave Grant

gingerking - Lead dnf - May/12 with Tom Simpson

burto - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/12 with hertha

Hardest climb yet - amazing route, great exposure, pumpy, and such a satisfying finish.
tiffanykate12 - 2nd - 08/Apr/12

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Baby D

Never again do I want to use the word 'take' knowing that the last 4 bits of gear are bad micros, i didn't bottle it, quite. Brilliant finish, and my first E2 5c.
arandall - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd dog - 19/Mar/12 with arandall

A great route of contrasting styles! 1st bit feels bold and technical with wonderful granite groove climbing. 2nd bit requires you to 'strap a pair on' and go for it! The below top tip of a #8 hex should be followed!
andy_pemberton - Lead - 15/Feb/12 with Rik Meek

Dave Heaton - Lead - 20/Jan/12 with James Forbes

Hidden - 2012

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Lewis Stewart - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Aiden

Incredibly desceptive crux grove when looked at from below. The overhanging prow felt straight forward and pure enjoyment. Fantastic end to a day that started with heavy showers.
msoldn - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/11 with Ceri

I pulled on a piece of gear to retrieve an awkward cam, but climbed it clean other than that. This looks really easy until you get on it, Excellent route!!!
Ceridwen - 2nd dog - 24/Aug/11 with Uber Mike

gowla - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/11 with will kumar

Justin T - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Cherry

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Jul/11

First E2, 1 fall.
mbradberry2008 - Lead dog - 29/May/11 with Johnny Dawes

carlgodfrey - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/11

Fell from the crux and took HUGE swing :) got crux on second attempt. Very balancy smear bridging. Escaped left before final overhang. Excellent lead by masa. Not E2 though
gb83 - 2nd dnf - 24/Apr/11 with masa

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Nolan

The easiest E2 I have ever done, and I thought it was more likely to be HVS 5b. But my second Graeme said it would be definitely 5c, so perhaps he is right.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11 with Graeme B

Technical groove, wild prow. Great route.
mark20 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

Beauty! i want it lead.
Jpsofishy - 2nd - 2011 with carlgodfrey

Really great route. Varied. Balancey and technical then overhanging. Lovely lead by Matt.
andrea83 - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Matt Fry

Cool, didn't believe that the crux was the groove from the ground - very suprising! Got a no hands rest using a double knee bar at the roof! route of great contrast.
Matt Fry - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Andrea Hayslop

pielander - 2nd - 05/Aug/10 with pete saunders

The finish is exciting but easier than the groove below. Hex 8 v useful at the roof.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with pielander

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/10

The grades don't add up around here IMO. Surely either this is E1 or both this and South Groove are E2.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with Clare

cakebrake - Lead - 2010

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/09 with Mark Glaister

Tim M - Lead - 04/May/09 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 04/May/09 with cheesesarnie

Not sure of exact date but early 2009
Bobby Gilbert - Lead O/S - 01/May/09 with Alan Dovey

Exposure & Steepness - not my usual scene but very very good.
Oddjob - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/09 with Carrie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/09

jchenoweth - Lead RP - 12/Apr/09 with Charlie Jeynes

Awesome climb!!
Master Chief - Lead β - 12/May/08 with Jeremy

Master Chief - TR O/S - 23/Apr/08 with Jeremy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/08

Jez - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Courtney

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/03

JerryD - Lead - Aug/98

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Will Cat, RichardN, gingerking, Dean177, Hidden, Ropeboy, joese7en, Owen W-G, Wotsit, MikeT, ebunick

Voting
Total votes cast 54
hard E30 of 18
E30 of 18
easy E30 of 18
hard E20 of 18
E210 of 18
easy E25 of 18
hard E13 of 18
E10 of 18
easy E10 of 18
hard 6a0 of 17
6a0 of 17
easy 6a0 of 17
hard 5c2 of 17
5c15 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
hard 5b0 of 17
5b0 of 17
easy 5b0 of 17
3 Stars13 of 19
2 Stars6 of 19
1 Star0 of 19
0 Stars0 of 19
Bag of .....0 of 19
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Style of ascent

Lead30 of 46 (65.2%)
Followed14 of 46 (30.4%)
Toproped1 of 46 (2.2%)
Unknown1 of 46 (2.2%)

'Climbed'12 of 46 (26.1%)
clean O/S25 of 46 (54.3%)
clean β2 of 46 (4.3%)
clean RP1 of 46 (2.2%)
dogged4 of 46 (8.7%)
dnf2 of 46 (4.3%)