Venusberg* VS 4c
[1970s period gear on Venusberg - breeches, red socks, Joe Brown helmet, Whillans harness... happy days., 3 kb]Disjointed but technically one of the more testing VSs at Bosigran and also slightly runout on its main pitch. Start at the base of the low-angled corner groove.. 1) 4a, 11m. Move up the corner until a flake-crack on the right wall can be gained. Climb the flake-crack to a mantleshelf next to a thorny bush and a good belay below a pinnacle just above.. 2) 4b, 12m. Chimney up the left side of the pinnacle and from its top move left to a narrow slanting corner. Technical moves up this quickly lead to a large belay ledge.. 3) 6m. Walk left along a narrow grassy ledge to a belay below a thin black seam.. 4) 4c, 13m. Climb up to the base of the black seam. Hard moves followed by a short runout are rewarded with a rest out to the left before some awkward moves up and right gain a restricted belay in a corner under a roof.. 5) 4b, 9m. Move up the corner and pass the roof with dificulty before a black vein on the left can be used to finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

Photo: 1970s period gear on Venusberg - breeches, red socks, Joe Brown helmet, Whillans harness... happy days. © Bob M
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 261 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

fulton333 - AltLd - 04/Oct/14

Done in 2 pitches, grant taking the first. Last section has some very awkward moves, but well protected.
JoeCoxson - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/14 with Grant Fulton

Led P2 & 4.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Abbi Louise, Max Streeton

2nd of the day. Lead first pitch.
Skinnybloke - AltLd - 07/Sep/14 with clubmanpete

Pero - AltLd - 05/Sep/14

Led p1, 3& 4
cem - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/14 with Peter Murphy

petegruf - AltLd - 31/Aug/14 with charles m

Did it again this time in the day time ... Lead first and second pitches this time... Fantastic often over looked climb....
clubmanpete - AltLd - 22/Jul/14 with surf1nal-kern0w

Pete did first pitch
surf1nal-kern0w - AltLd - 21/Jul/14

ran pitches together. alison p1&2, me p2&3. g e arless section only short and on good holds.
pebbles - AltLd - 19/Jul/14 with alison cairns

Lead pitch 1 and Alan lead pitch 2 of anvil chorus then I lead pitch 4 and 5 as one of this climb. All this was done at the dead of night with the trusty head touches..... well worth doing fantastic adventure!!!
clubmanpete - AltLd - 10/Jul/14 with surf1nal-kern0w

Pete lead after dog lead anvil chorus - fair play. Now dark!
surf1nal-kern0w - 2nd - 10/Jul/14

peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14 with Tim Exley

P2, 3, 4 & 5. Lovely climb. Didn't place much gear for the last 2 pitches, as didn't use the last belay because there were 3 of us. Felt more like HVS as a result.
OliverRoss - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Angus Taylor, Robert Kunzman

P1, then seconded the rest, tough last couple of pitch, committing move out onto the crimps from under the overhang on the last pitch, exciting climb!
Angus Taylor - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Oliver Ross

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 13/May/14 with Paul Millen

Hidden - Lead - 05/May/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 03/May/14

Paulben10 - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/14

led pitches 1 and 2 (in 1 pitch)
dbrooks - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Gideon

gidmord - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with dbrooks

I led P1 and 2as one and Matt combined 3 and 4. A nice varied climb, but the '4a' P1 contained the crux - a massively awkward mantel / grovel / bellyflop move just before the belay. The 'awkward move on P3 never really materialised and overall a good climb at a solid VS
Jules Lane - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Matt Box

P3
Lumbering Oaf - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Julian

I led P1 and 4/5. Reasonable, but nothing outstanding.
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Simon Coldrick

First half of Anvil Chorus as the bottom of Venusberg was wet.
jhb0510 - 2nd rpt - 12/Apr/14 with Luke Randall

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/14

tp45597 - AltLd O/S - 04/Apr/14 with luke

The first pitch was really wet, so did the bottom part of Anvil Chorus to get to the traverse.
jhb0510 - Lead rpt - 01/Apr/14 with Min, Ana Ramos

Some bold moves for me and the wind near the top added an extra element. Nice mix of moves and an enjoyable climb
penguinpete - 2nd - 21/Mar/14 with Ian

Wind, rain and cold. What more could you ask for? Good route with lots of variety.
Dilwat - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/14 with Pete

I lead pitches 1 and 3
manbat - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with neil stubbs

I led p2 and p4, found the mantel style move on p2 quite tough.
neilstubbs - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/14 with Matt George

P3,4&5 strung together.
Jack J Keogan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with Milton Wakefield

miltonwakefield - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/14 with jack keo

Hidden - 2014

cymjt - 2014

Started raining and getting very windy on pitch 3 so down climbed and got out of there!
Joel Perkin - Lead dnf - 31/Dec/13 with Chris Cottle, Jamo Walker

Jamo Walker - 2nd dnf - 31/Dec/13 with Chris Cottle, Joel perkins

Great climb with what looks to be a great finish. Did not finish due to hard rain and wind coming in forcing us to back off.
chris.cottle20 - 2nd dnf - 31/Dec/13

The guidebooks version this time, not Des'!
jhb0510 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/13 with Mike Weare

Years ago I was told this was too hard for me(!). It's a piece of piss really
PaulTanton - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/13

dkd - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Al

Quality route. I did the left-hand variation (corner all the way) in P2, and did P3+4 in one go. The top move in the first pitch is not 4a, as described in the definitive guidebook (2000), but more like 4c.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ian S

SteveM - AltLd - 26/Aug/13 with Kat

P1, P4(main pitch) So glad I didn't let the guidebook warnings of hard moves, small protection and a runout put me off - would have missed out on a great climb, with none of the scariness that is suggested by its description...
kitkat78 - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with SteveM

On Des' suggestion (He is a legend after all!) we climbed the bottom 3 pitches of Anvil Chorus and the top 2 of Venusberg, it was lovely!
jhb0510 - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Des Hannigan, Mike Weare

csd23 - 2nd O/S - Aug/13 with Tim Miller, Richard Dodds

AndyF - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Ian G

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with David

Good. I led p2, 4&5.
Binder - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/13 with Yvonne S

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jun/13

Ashley Hold - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Graham Hadaway

redshapedfriday - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Ashley Hold

Only had time for P1 and P2. Lead in one pitch.
Nathaniel Larsson - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Louise Hall

Only time for P1+2
Louise Hall - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Nathaniel Gjoderum-Symons

Me first and second pitch, Shaun 3 and 4. Worked fine on doubles.
ewanthomson - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Shaun McCance

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/13

Maywood96 - 2nd - 25/May/13 with Caspar Mckeever

Dave192939 - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Charlotte Jankowski

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 05/May/13

neiloutdoors - 2nd - 04/May/13

tracyclimber - Lead - 04/May/13 with neiloutdoors

Followed Duncan all the way up - really enjoyed the climb, but glad I wasn't leading!
DaveGarrity - 2nd O/S - 03/May/13 with Duncan Turner

Duncan Turner - Lead - 03/May/13

Climbed as 2 pitches - Nick lead 1&2 and I lead 4&5 - seems to make more sense to do it this way - great Bosi climbing
SurferStan - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/13 with Nick Donahue

nickdonohue - AltLd - 12/Apr/13 with Chris Stanyon

will moy - Lead - 09/Apr/13 with sophie

Led p2
cem - AltLd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Kirill - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Charles Moreton

IzzyWhite - 2nd β - 28/Mar/13

Only led Pitch 1, where i "performed" possibly the worst and most ridiculous mantle ever! Great route, esp last pitch or 2.
Skip - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Cheese Monkey

Awesome, really enjoyable climb. Some tricky moves on each pitch. Led p2-5
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Skip

Mark Kemball - Lead - 06/Oct/12 with Solly Kemball Dorey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Sep/12

Traversed to far left and missed the crux on my pitch, convoluted route
Blue68 - AltLd - 14/Sep/12 with Alan Mountford

hotfeet - AltLd - 14/Sep/12 with Mark MacDonald

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/12 with mum

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Wendo, liv_the_div

mjeffery - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with Rob

Stewart Armstrong - AltLd - 03/Jun/12 with Steve Westwood

arandall - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Liz, Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Liz, arandall

MD - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Jo

Happy Wanderer - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Mike D

Lizzie Randall - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Wendy, Alex

jakenichol - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Martin Cathrow

Led pp 3 + 4 as 1
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 04/May/12 with Jonah Jones

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 07/Apr/12

stevepotter - AltLd - 06/Apr/12 with Dave P

I lead pitch 1 and 2 combined, Steven lead 4 and 5 combined. Enjoyed seconding the top pitches which were nicely exposed.
dprctr - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/12 with Steven ODL

jchenoweth - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Scottish Andy

jess - AltLd O/S - Apr/12 with martin

Steve27 - AltLd - 10/Mar/12 with Ewan Gilmour

gilmourheid - AltLd - 10/Mar/12 with Steve27

Robin Head - AltLd - 03/Mar/12

felt like i should have really enjoyed this climb, but i really didn't. now anvil chorus next door however . . .
jag - AltLd - 2012 with steveo

2602steve - 2012

janegallwey - Lead - 2012

Lead pitch 1 and 3 + 4 together. Not really a line but some quite nice moves. Rich did the direct start to pitch 2.
David_Gledson - AltLd - 01/Dec/11 with Rich Timms

timmsy - AltLd - 01/Dec/11 with David_Gledson

Slick - AltLd - 08/Oct/11 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/11

Country_Boy - 2nd RP - 10/Sep/11 with Stu Bradbury

great climbing from start to finish, last belay stance is cramped if in a 3.
carl_123 - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with darren and becky

Danny Bags - Lead - 03/Sep/11

Led P1+2 together
mark20 - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11

p3 and 4
CRiddiford - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Mark

Really good route. Climbed as two pitches. I led 1 & 2 together and Mark did the top 2. Followed the guidebook recommendation to climb the corner of pitch 2 from the start instead of back and footing up behind the pedestal and gave some good climbing.
andybenham - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Mark Sharples

mark sharples - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Andy Benham

Great contrasting route. Did it in 4 pitches, me 1 and 4, Al 2 and the 'bold' third pitch. Couldn't haul myself and the tonne of gear up the mantel so heel-hooked instead. Al did a good job on his pitches. Loved the move around the roof on P4, and the juggy moves up the black vein. Also sustained torque nut injury.
embob - AltLd - 21/Aug/11 with Alex

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/11

Marti999 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Graham Charman

Graham C - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Marti

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11

riddle - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/11 with Yasmina

manbat - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/11 with Graham, Zach Lawlor

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/11 with Aileen, Miles

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11

lead 1st, & traverse along grass cornice!!!!!
benlawlor85 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/11

Ok route, bit disjointed.
jezb1 - AltLd - 01/Jun/11

chris687 - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with jez brown

ben bowry - 2nd O/S - Jun/11 with Matthew Murphy

DOVEY - AltLd - 23/May/11 with Adum, Andrew

chris ebbutt - AltLd - 01/May/11 with Dave R.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11

Okecroak - AltLd - 30/Apr/11

Dave89 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Laura

leerybunny - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Stan

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/11 with Jack Hodgson, Steve Knaggs

Not a good start to my new partnership with AP, was unable to do the mantleshelf on p1 so AP led. Managed to redeem myself somewhat by leading p2&4
Pete Nugent - AltLd - 03/Apr/11 with Andy Peasgood

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

zach.stone - 02/Apr/11 with Chris Allen

fantastic route get on it loads of great moves and situation good holds on the run out bit
minexplorer - Lead - 25/Mar/11 with grant newcombe

misterb - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with wain

Justin T - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/11

cornishmackem - 2011

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 13/Nov/10 with Kevin Colclough

led 2nd and 4th pitches
Haytor_Haggis - AltLd - 13/Nov/10 with Steve Woollard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Oct/10

Led crux pitch
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 25/Sep/10 with Mike Guttridge

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Sep/10

Adam1973 - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/10 with Chris Tan

Elaine Budden - AltLd - 18/Aug/10 with tom bunn

Seems unworthy climbing next to Anvil Chorus. Feels a bit pointless.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/10 with Elaine Budden

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jul/10

Master Chief - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Jeremy

Em66 - AltLd - 16/Jun/10 with Mat

bigbobbyking - Lead dog - 12/Jun/10 with Iona Naismith

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Sarah Joyce

wilchivs - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Liv Pearson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/10

Craig Geddes - Lead O/S - 20/May/10 with Ellie Ames

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/10

Started on Little brown Jug but traveresed too far
saundera - AltLd - Apr/10 with Zaheer

Hidden - 2010

brianrunner - AltLd - 2010 with martina

Jess Christley - Lead - 31/Oct/09 with Marc Scholz

Such an effort to lift my weary ass up from my sunbathing position at the bottom of the route. Seems I was so weary I missed the traverse into the corner on the last pitch :-s
nickstephens - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/09 with Peter Jones

Lead this after going to far right on Clob - oops. The top section on with the black veined rock is fun, otherwise so-so
Mark_RMC - Lead - 22/Aug/09 with Michelle

petegruf - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/09 with capn bob

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/09 with Kris

midnightsparks - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Tim Holloway

matsavage - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09

brian watson - AltLd O/S - 03/May/09 with scott titt

timreynolds - AltLd - 02/May/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/09

Hidden - AltLd - 06/Apr/09

Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Ed Hill

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Sep/08

lukehodson - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Magnus

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/08

Steerpike - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Bruce

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 11/May/08 with Lisa Paling

lisapaling - 2nd β - 11/May/08 with Toby Dunford

Climbed in two pitches by running them together. I led first pitch.
r@bag - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Dom Sellars

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 09/May/08 with Laurence Davis

Hot and sweaty!
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 04/May/08 with Chris Lodge

Alan sandbagged himself this year (if only we had a memory between the 2 of us we might have picked a different route in the wind and rain of easter 20008)
Stick - 2nd rpt - Apr/08 with Fat Al

Merlin - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/08

beckycoles - Sep/07

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/07 with Clare

sandbagged myself 100% Clob just looked boring so just went up the blackline to the left, scary but had good brain games
Stick - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Fat Al

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/07

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jan/07

Ian Jones - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Aug/06

victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/06 with crossdressingrodney

Led pitch 1 and 3. Found the crux a little lacking in pro. Considered the delicate mantle but opted for a belly flop instead.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/06 with alex malins, victim of mathematics

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/06

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jul/06

Linked the last two pitches, following the black vein. Far more natural line.
adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 13/May/06 with Jo Burke and Sarah Bough

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/06

Sarah Bough - 2nd O/S - 13/May/06 with Adam Thomas, Jo Burke

bob3141 - AltLd O/S - 16/Apr/06 with Jesse Dufton

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 16/Apr/06 with bob3141

Geoffers - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Tim

wojt - Lead - 2006

Different Steve - Lead - Aug/05 with Caroline Goldsworthy

Andy2 - 2005

John Kettle - AltLd - 2005

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/04

Lev - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/04 with Claire Durant

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

John linked P1 & 2. I did P3, tentatively, as I struggled to find encouraging gear.
Siderunner - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/03 with John E

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/03

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/03

andy_pemberton - Lead - Jan/03 with Katharine Pemberton

William Robertson - 2nd O/S - 2003 with Dave Mutch

Hidden - Lead - 01/Aug/02

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/02

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/00

paddymitton - Lead - Jun/00

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 22/May/00 with Claire Graham

timreynolds - AltLd - 29/Apr/00

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2000

VPJB - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Sep/99

Led p3
cem - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/99 with Gordon Carder

Hidden - 12/Oct/97

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/97 with Andy Connor

belay bunny turned bad - 1997

I think both pitch 1 & 2 are way above 4a. More like 4c. This is an excellent sustained route, worth ***.
Rog Wilko - Lead - Oct/96 with Debbie Wilkinson

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - Jul/95

underrated route. the belay boulder worth a star on it's own.
colin milton - AltLd - 16/Oct/94 with eric milton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/93

Mick King - AltLd - 09/Apr/93 with John Hudson

keefe - 1989

RichardMc - Lead - 30/Mar/86 with Steve Gould

Richard Weller - AltLd - 05/May/84 with Ant Osborne

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 12/Oct/80 with John Walmsley

mark-abz - Lead - 09/Mar/80 with ?

Paul Clarke - 1980 with Others, FMC

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1979 with Dinnae ken

David Smith - 1979

jmr - AltLd - Oct/77 with Tim Murray

Nigel Bond - Lead - 13/Apr/77 with Tony Cuddy

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/May/75 with Jonathan Lagoe

Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 31/Mar/75 with Mick Papworth

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Mayo, Maywood96

Voting
Total votes cast 122
hard HVS0 of 40
HVS0 of 40
easy HVS0 of 40
hard VS4 of 40
VS34 of 40
easy VS2 of 40
hard HS0 of 40
HS0 of 40
easy HS0 of 40
hard 5a0 of 39
5a0 of 39
easy 5a0 of 39
hard 4c3 of 39
4c35 of 39
easy 4c1 of 39
hard 4b0 of 39
4b0 of 39
easy 4b0 of 39
3 Stars4 of 43
2 Stars23 of 43
1 Star13 of 43
0 Stars3 of 43
Bag of .....0 of 43
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf