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|Gwynedd > Twll Mawr >
|The Wonderful World of Walt Disney|| E6 6b|
<< Phil's Harmonica
The Dyke >>
|95m, 4 pitches. Start 10m right of The Quarryman at a 2BB below the obvious corner groove.
1. 35m. 6a/b Climb the corner groove past 1 stud and 3 bolts. 2BB below The Quarryman groove pitch.
2. 20m. 6b. Climb easily right over ledges and around the arete, then climb up to a small roof, bolt, rock right then back left above the roof and follow the arete past a bolt to a ledge. Use flakes on the right to gain the next bolt then climb leftwards to the next belay. 2BB.
3. 20m. 6b. Climb easily rightwards up ledges then traverse right to the ledge on the edge, bolt, make one tricky move onto a foothold then jump across the corner to jugs, continue to the belay. 1BB
4. 20m. 6a. The Scoop Dragon. Climb the groove past 3 bolts and 1 peg and so to the top.|
Drury, Dawes, Popp 02/Jul/1987
Ticklists: Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck.
Photo: Nic Sellars on Pitch 1, about to make the hard move into the groove © Dave Musgrove Jnr
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This climb is in 5 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.
Only led 4th (easy) pitch. Tried to lead 3rd, made the leap but failed to hold the jug and went flying upside-down down the slab, Cut hand and bruised arse but not too serious. Luckily Nic fared better! Great route but the old rusty bolts could do with replacing
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 01/Sep/12 with Nic Sellars
Seconded P1 clean. Tried P2 and P3 on lead but backed off then took a hang on both on second. Didn't have a go at the jump as the ropes ran over an sharp edge, just dogged off the bolt with a long sling. Led top pitch in mega winds and hence no chalk. Epic adventure, some really hrd moves, and bar the ledge shuffling very sustained. pitches E5, E6, 6c (english),E4/5. Bolts weren't inspiring.
Alex Mason - AltLd - 25/May/11 with Ed Booth
Led pitch 1, 2 & 3. Took 1 lob on first and second pitch and led them from hands off footrests. Pitch 3 took a few swings, before getting the move. Absolutely mega! Love jumping moves, but even that jump on pitch 3 was scary, ended up doing it by falling a hand onto the arete of the groove and getting a full on quarryman groove move going. Amazing adventure. Scary rusty bolts.
Ed Booth - AltLd - 25/May/11 with Al Mason
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/11
NickHarms - 1990
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Alex Mason, Ed Booth, MorganPreece