West Sphinx Climb** E2 5b

Rockfax Description
11m. From under the nose, move up left to below the overhang (poor improvised gear) and make a hard pull over. Move up to reach a thin horizontal crack and runners. Teeter left along this then escape up the arete. © ROCKFAX

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This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Bold and tricky
DPaul - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/15 with pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/15

Keith Swainson - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/15 with Matt Levick, Dave Crofts

Ste Ridd - TR - 11/Jun/14 with Danny, Mike Collins

Nowhere near as good as the direct version. Shares the same good and bold start but once it starts traversing this route feels a little aimless, heading up an arÍte that is next to an easy gully.
climberchristy - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/14 with Ben Cole

Bit of a funny one, the actual traverse out left is enjoyable and allows more comedy gear to be placed but the finish is totally escapable.
Matthew Ferrier - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with My Mum

Hidden - TR dnf - 10/Jun/13

cherad - TR dog - 11/May/13 with Louise Bell

Hidden - 2013

Climbster - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Ian

Bloke on a Rope - 2nd β - 21/Jul/12 with Matt

annoyingly escapable at the end- bit of a cop out; should have done the direct version.
robertmctague - Lead O/S - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

Malcolm Bass - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - 25/Jul/10

Hidden - 25/Jul/10

Good climb up to traverse left but then very escapable and easy to top. Very little gear and none of it was I really happy with. Arranged clever opposing nuts below overhang which promptly fell apart on climbing above them so did crux move basically unprotected which was quite scary and about as hard as I imagined it would be. A fairly soft E2?
manwithacam - Lead - 24/Jul/10 with Sarah

padski - Lead RP - May/10

padski - 2010

Good fun
padski - Lead RP - Sep/09

padski - Lead RP - Sep/09

had a look at direct finish but too reachy couldn;t work out moves. Moves up to thin break were trickier than they looked from ground but with right sequence very satisfying, finish to this route feels a bit of a cop out.. the direct ahs to be the way to go.
Mattyk - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/08 with John Marsham

Franco Cookson OLD - Lead - 16/Apr/08 with David Warburton

Dave Warburton - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/08 with Franco Cookson

ellie macpherson - TR rpt - 25/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

teespaddler - 1998

malc - TR - 18/Jun/92

kato'sdad - Lead - 1991 with Jerry Mattinson

Andy Say - Lead - 15/Sep/90

Neil R - Lead - 29/Apr/90 with Sharon

Hidden - Lead - 1987

charlesmfrench - Lead - 1985

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Sam Marks, Leif Andrews

Total votes cast 25
hard E30 of 9
E30 of 9
easy E30 of 9
hard E20 of 9
E26 of 9
easy E22 of 9
hard E10 of 9
E11 of 9
easy E10 of 9
hard 5c0 of 9
5c1 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 9
5b8 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
hard 5a0 of 9
5a0 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars4 of 7
1 Star3 of 7
0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP