UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
From the right side of the pinnacle, squeeze along the base of the chimney to belay at a comfortable stance where the cleft exits onto the cliff face. This can be reached direct up Flake Crack at HS 4b. Climb pleasantly from here to the top of the pinnacle where a jump across the chasm leads to salvation. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Walk around the pinnacle from the right to belay at a comfortable stance where the cleft exits onto the cliff face. (Starting at the wide crack at ground level is the start of Flake Crack HS 4a) Climb pleasantly from here to the top of the pinnacle where a jump across the chasm leads to salvation.

A belay can be made from the top of the pinnacle to reduce rope drag.

J Rotherham, T Dodd both solo 1973.

Feedback

User Date Notes
TGreen 27 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The start of this route is gained by walking around the pinnacle from the right to a good stance 6m up the crag, not at ground level. Starting up the chimney and the leftwards traverse is Flake Crack HS 4b.
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βeta: The start of this route is gained by walking around the pinnacle from the right to a good stance 6m up the crag, not at ground level. Starting up the chimney and the leftwards traverse is Flake Crack HS 4b.
caradoc 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The wide crack and traverse left is much harder than Dif. Big hexes or cams.
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βeta: The wide crack and traverse left is much harder than Dif. Big hexes or cams.
Alistair Duff 16 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: It\'s a scary jump off the top, check you\'re happy to do it before you start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a scary jump off the top, check you're happy to do it before you start.

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Route of Interest
The Insomniacs Traverse

Grade: S 4a ***
(Tryfan Fach [Little Tryfan])

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