Beltane** 7b
[At the crux on Beltane, Bus Stop Quarry, 3 kb]30m.

Rockfax Description
Easier and better than Raisin Frumpsnoot, but it still packs a big punch. Maybe 7b+ for shorties. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Right of Forsinain Motspur, thin and continuous moves up the wall, good!

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, a State of Slate, Top class slate sport 7b-8a, Slate Sport, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+, AMC Uni Ticklist.

Photo: At the crux on Beltane, Bus Stop Quarry © Paul Evans
View all 8 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 96 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

working it, project
jezb1 - TR - 18/Sep/15

spragglerocks - TR dnf - 04/Sep/15 with Becky

belay bunny turned bad - Lead dog - 28/Aug/15 with Bridget, Soph

soph - Lead dog - 28/Aug/15 with Becky Lounds

FreddieSmith - Lead RP - 09/Aug/15 with Becky Good

In the rain. Really Small hand and foot holds. Good hard reachy moves
MichaelGallimore - TR dnf - 26/Jul/15

Callum van Werkhoven - Lead RP - 08/Jul/15 with James Metzger, Andy Myers

Hidden - TR dnf - 22/Jun/15

Suprisingly good climbing, weaves about a bit but flows super nice. Lots of rests in between the hard moves
Glyn - Lead O/S - 01/May/15 with Harriet Ridley

damob123 - TR dnf - 06/Apr/15 with Didrik Kristianson

danJBA - Lead dog - 04/Apr/15 with Dan Brockwell

Wooo! winter project sent! (and hardest send to date)
bede.west - Lead RP - 08/Feb/15 with Henry Francis

Forgot some of the beta dropping second red point attempt just before crux, dogged to top. NEXT TIME!
bede.west - Lead dog - 20/Dec/14 with stu

2nd session. got all the moves and made big links getting on the lead next time. 3 stars!
bede.west - TR dog - 16/Nov/14

Craigyboy13 - TR dog - 26/Aug/14

Could miraculously reach about 2 inches further than the other day which helped a lot! Strange token palm at the 4th bolt also made everything work apparently?
tommccluskey - Lead RP - 07/Aug/14 with Jess

My anti-style...
Oli - Lead dog - 29/Jul/14 with Dan Barbour

Flashed it until the last bolt. A little beta goes a long way.
Kevster - Lead dog - 27/Jun/14 with Nibs

Without a warm up, putting clips in. Fell off on the last move with finger tips on the juggy arete after rushing it slightly and missing a better, higher crimp for left hand. Gutted but happy to have got so far!
shed_hed - Lead dog - 16/May/14 with Rob Partridge

tomwright1509 - Lead dnf - 15/May/14

Hidden - TR dnf - 13/May/14

About 5th redpoint after spending an age working out the moves through the first roof. The sun didn't help.
Ed morris - Lead RP - 19/Apr/14 with Cherry, stefan

Got it first go today after putting the clips in. Well chuffed. Had proper disco leg for the rockover at the end!
shed_hed - Lead RP - 09/Apr/14 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - Lead dog - 09/Apr/14 with Darren McMaster

Hidden - TR dnf - Apr/14

Went the wrong way...then tried the right way and found it hard
wi11 - TR dnf - 10/Mar/14 with Henry F

HAJ Francis - Lead RP - Mar/14

carbar64 - Lead dnf - 27/Feb/14

mileshill540 - Lead - 2014

thought I was going to just put draws in. Managed to push through not been on it for two years. fun!
Ewan Russell - Lead RP - 27/Oct/13 with gwen

Why did I bother: sore tips, rolling shoes and just tired. Felt hard, superb climbing though.
ksjs - TR dog - 22/Sep/13 with owen

ianstevens - TR - 22/Sep/13

ianstevens - TR dnf - 16/Jul/13

UnkArl - TR dog - 06/Jun/13

with shunt
christoph owen - TR - 23/Apr/13 with top rope solo

7b. good route
Dan724 - Lead RP - 21/Feb/13 with Ben Ryle

Lovely moves, had to focus on every move til the lowers. Chuffed.
BenRyle - Lead RP - 27/Jan/13 with Dan

dswansonlow - Lead RP - 11/Nov/12 with Darren McMaster

Better stickies didn't help much but have managed every move clean and strung most of them together now just can't do it consistently. Thinking that maybe I do need to get some new non-floppy shoes which have some actual edges for this hard slate stuff...every move is such a stretch though and I'm pulling really hard so they probably wouldn't help. Have told Dougie to remember the moves for me for when I forget them by next time!
shed_hed - TR dog - 11/Nov/12 with Dougie Swanson-Low

Start of a winter project...climbed well after sunset with a head torch as it was dry and warm. Managed majority of moves in isolation in indoor stickies. Must come back with better shoes!
shed_hed - TR dog - 22/Oct/12 with Dougie Swanson-Low

dswansonlow - TR dog - 22/Oct/12 with Darren McMaster

Hard for shorties!
Luke Brooks - Lead RP - 02/Aug/12 with Dave Evans

BenRyle - TR dog - 30/Jul/12 with Charlottte

Hidden - Lead - 15/Jul/12

onsight all the way then went up for the big jug at the top and foot slipped off so gutted just carelessness but an awsome route
Michael Allday - Lead RP - 26/May/12

Close to Beltane. Soft when done via the LH method - probably hard 7b. 7b+ the RH way.
zero six - Lead RP - May/12

ahhhhhblueeuehghgffffffgggg!! so close!
Tom Livingstone - Lead dog - 23/Feb/12 with Tom Ripley

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Such a good route, very technical. Sequence dialled, will go next time!
Tom Livingstone - Lead dog - 02/Nov/11 with sam radcliffe

Hidden - TR dog - 26/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 23/Aug/11

barni - Lead RP - 01/Aug/11 with Liam fleming

Liam FLeming - 01/Aug/11 with barni

finally got it clean!! yes! the flake and the top rockover definetley the hardest moves.
vertically_challenged - Lead RP - 14/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jul/11

Hidden - TR dnf - 12/Jun/11

fell on the easy move after the move left as i relaxed. fell again on the hard rock over at the top. next time its going down! Done - rock over move isnt even the right move! absolute SLAP for the top! just held it... first 7b... well psyched!
willoates - Lead RP - 28/May/11 with Steve Parry, Dave Rudkin

Hidden - Lead RP - 20/May/11

Lloyders - Lead RP - 11/May/11 with Paddy

Will go back and will get it clean! wait for the finger tips to cool off, nice route.
surfboybert - Lead dog - 03/May/11 with sam hinton

Hidden - TR dog - 29/Apr/11

vertically_challenged - Lead dog - Apr/11

wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/11 with nic

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Mar/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Liam FLeming - Lead RP - 2011 with barni

done 2nd go - interesting last clip
ksjs - Lead RP - 27/Oct/10 with jo

i take back my previous comments on the grade: the rests between each of the sections makes this feel more 7b than 7b+ but the moves left from the penultimate bolt felt especially tricky for the grade. 1st go: bolt to bolt, took small eternity to figure those moves left near end 2nd go: fingers greased at 2nd bolt due to drizzle 3rd go: fell on the traverse but went to top with a few rests/falls 4th go: much better, fingers just too painful to pull on the last moves but clean to penultimate bolt - bit of a tip shredder if you spend too long working this
ksjs - Lead dog - 20/Oct/10 with jo

tried it again and got it 1st go. the top part felt amazing as i had never been on the moves b4. was stoked when i clipped the lower off! f7b
samrad - Lead RP - 08/Oct/10 with smallerrich

was good! went 4 the onsite! didn't get the crux.
samrad - Lead dnf - 07/Oct/10 with crad

Hard - great climb though! Wanted to finish it, but then ripped my finger open on a sharp hold just below the last bolt...I'll be back :-)
GarethHall - Lead dnf - 01/Oct/10 with Teck

Hidden - TR dog - 30/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 25/Sep/10

Retroflashed, went first go this session when I went to put the clips in : S
smallerrich - Lead RP - 04/Sep/10 with Ollie Wragg

barni - TR dog - 25/Aug/10 with Justin Hughes

Hidden - TR dnf - 15/Aug/10

i felt good and dynamic when i did it, awesome moves, really thin at the top!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 20/Nov/09 with alex mason

Hidden - TR dnf - 16/Oct/09

barni - Lead dog - 13/Sep/09

2 falls
barni - Lead dog - 07/Sep/09

nails! got on this thinking 7a+ and it really isnt. 7b+ minimum (you cant give it any less based on other slate grades). very good but very technical. lowered off at last bolt - had had enough by this stage, couldnt do the traverse left and gave up on final moves to belay. hopefully the aid, falls and exasperation will not be needed next time...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 01/Aug/09 with goosebump

Felt hard! Tiny holds and my hands are ripped to shreads!
HeatherF - TR dog - 09/Jul/09 with Mike H

string arms - Lead RP - 29/May/09 with ILL-Jones

ian Ll-J - Lead RP - 23/May/09

barni - TR dnf - 24/Nov/08 with Jack

S'well hard
farmus21 - 2nd - 02/Nov/08 with Sam Hamer

clean through to the rockover- rockover bloody hard - 7b+ - may be alternate beta out left?
lukea - Lead dog - 26/Oct/08 with luke

lukea - Lead dog - 23/Aug/08 with Al

bloody hard!! Got just over half way up but couldn't work out any more moves :( also wasn't warmed up fully which didn't help. Definitely want to get it cracked though.
C@rwyn - TR dnf - 18/Aug/08 with Tom

HeatherF - TR - 18/Aug/08 with Franklin

couldnt work out moves to undercut / upper flake.
ksjs - Lead dnf - 06/Jun/08 with goosebump

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/08

Hidden - TR dnf - 30/Sep/07

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Callum van Werkhoven, FreddieSmith, Phil Blue, Jay-Ast, Tom Livingstone, Huw Cropper, sam820, ColinD, C@rwyn

Total votes cast 32
hard 7b+0 of 11
7b+4 of 11
easy 7b+1 of 11
hard 7b6 of 11
7b0 of 11
easy 7b0 of 11
hard 7a+0 of 11
7a+0 of 11
easy 7a+0 of 11
3 Stars7 of 21
2 Stars13 of 21
1 Star1 of 21
0 Stars0 of 21
Bag of .....0 of 21
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean RP