Appliance of Violence** 7b+
[Dumbarton violence and tranquility, 1 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Scottish Sport 7a (and above...).

Photo: Dumbarton violence and tranquility © Fraser
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 71 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

thomasburley - Lead dog - 03/Oct/15 with Garth

thomasburley - Lead dog - 19/Sep/15 with Garth

first time through crux and clipped 3rd bolt
thomasburley - Lead dog - 17/Sep/15 with Garth

thomasburley - Lead dog - 05/Sep/15 with Garth

Hidden - Lead dog - 02/Sep/15

weelee9985 - Lead RP - 22/Jul/15 with Calum Hicks

1 rest below crux then to top.
thomasburley - Lead dog - 21/Jun/15 with Jeremy Love

Felt good and more refinement at crux
thomasburley - Lead dog - 16/Jun/15 with Jeremy Love

thomasburley - TR dog - 13/Jun/15 with Jeremy Love

Koon - TR dog - 11/Jun/15 with John Sharples

thomasburley - Lead dog - 30/May/15 with Jeremy Love

John McKenna - Lead dog - 26/May/15 with Euan Todd

thomasburley - TR dog - 23/May/15 with Garth

Climbed with one rest from just below crux.
thomasburley - TR dog - 14/May/15 with Jeremy Love, Garth

thomasburley - TR dog - 13/May/15 with Pete Roy

Koon - TR dog - 07/May/15 with John Sharples

1st time on the route, Short but very varied. Beta really helps to make progress with a lot of body position dependant moves.
thomasburley - TR dog - 04/May/15 with Pete Roy, Jeremy Love, Garth

Andy Moles - Lead RP - 11/Oct/14 with Simon

tom russell - Lead RP - 27/Sep/14 with mike

Belaying more than climbing but was alright until the crux. Maybe after some system board training.
Stevie989 - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/14

Just one move shutting me down. Think I have a workable sequence for it though. Will probably go straight to lead next time out.
craig1983 - TR dog - 30/Aug/14 with Stevie

1st session. Jump up in grade for me. Can link it in 2 or 3 sections. Not considered where to clip from yet.
craig1983 - TR dog - 23/Aug/14 with Stewart Cable

5th session (1 in 27 degrees, 2 in the rain), 1st lead, smooth and steady in the end.
Brian Pollock - Lead RP - 18/Aug/14 with Gordon

gurumed - Lead RP - 16/Aug/14 with Brian

gurumed - TR RP - 06/Aug/14 with Brian

gurumed - TR dog - 24/Jul/14 with Brian

Koon - TR dog - 15/Jul/14 with John Sharples

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jun/14

ferdia - Lead dog - 29/Jun/14 with Andy

Burly and brilliant!
John 'B' Hutchinson - Lead RP - 29/Apr/14 with Johnny & Cody

Macleod - TR dog - 07/Oct/12 with dominic

RdC - Lead RP - 26/Jun/12 with chris

Fultonius - Lead RP - 27/Apr/12

Day 15 - Sent on third burn! Great conditions by the end of the night. So 9 days on top-rope and 19 redpoint attempts... the things you need to do to get a new grade when you are old.
JLS - Lead RP - 14/Jul/11 with Darren D., Dom

Day 14 - Three burns, best to previous high point and impossible 4th clip. Conditions not great.
JLS - Lead dog - 12/Jul/11 with Darren D.

Day 13 - Three redpoint attempts. Average conditions. Looks like I need good conditions but still quite close...
JLS - Lead dog - 11/Jul/11 with Jacqui

Day 12 - Four redpoint attempts, good conditions, fourth clip fumbles put pay to sending. Bad luck when I needed good luck.
JLS - Lead dog - 09/Jul/11 with Darren D.

Day 11 - Two redpoint attempts without much expectation as conditions were pretty poor. Still, it's more hard pulling in the bank.
JLS - Lead dog - 04/Jul/11 with Darren D.

3 quick sessions, then 5 shots on lead, kept coming off right at the last bolt, but nailed it last time!!
stewnew - Lead RP - 03/Jul/11 with my mate colin

Day 10 - Four redpoint attempts, 3 good close efforts before the wheels fell off. No great problems with the clipping, just lacking a wee touch of PE.
JLS - Lead dog - 02/Jul/11 with Sven J., Fraser H.

Worth extending the fourth bolt - with a short extender, the krab can be opened by rubbing against the arete as you climb past.
Brendan - Lead RP - 30/Jun/11 with Stewart

Day 9 - Oh dear, 4 TR burns, all with one fall at third clip unclipping faff. Might be easier to lead now.
JLS - TR dog - 30/Jun/11 with Slovak Pete, Darren D.

dwisniewski - Lead RP - 30/Jun/11 with Slovak Pete, John Sharples

Day 8 - 3 TR burns, two with one rest. New high point before fall. Getting easier but still elusive.
JLS - TR dog - 28/Jun/11 with Slovak Pete, Darren D., Jacqui

Day 7 - 3 poor efforts on TR between bouts of drizzle.
JLS - TR dog - 25/Jun/11 with Darren D.

Day 6 - After two poor TR burns due to poor beta recall a third TR burn produced a new high point, one fall to the top. Made further refinement of sequence. Conditions and level of fatigue not great so happy with progress.
JLS - TR dog - 23/Jun/11 with Ally F., Darren D.

Day 5 - Back on track. Good links with reliable second crux beta sorted (and recorded on paper). Expect TR tick on next visit. Broke a foot hold but it isn't critical.
JLS - TR dog - 20/Jun/11 with Ally F.

Day 4 - Struggled, some new beta but no real progress made.
JLS - TR dog - 16/Jun/11 with Fraser R.

Day 3 - Getting closer to the TR tick.
JLS - TR dog - 12/Jun/11 with Jacqui

Day 2 - It's slowly coming together... 3 burns on TR.
JLS - TR dog - 09/Jun/11 with Mike S., Jacqui

Day 1 - Did the moves, made some links, will be back for more.
JLS - TR dog - 04/Jun/11 with Darren D.

westaway - Lead β - 08/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 08/Sep/10

2 dogs, one clean top rope then first red point attempt. (nearly off at the top though)
julesp - Lead RP - 08/Sep/10 with fraser

No problem with individual moves. Going to be strenuous to stark linking.
julesp - TR dog - 15/Aug/10 with fiend

sheppy - Lead dog - 14/Aug/10 with iain n jules

Neil Adams - Lead RP - 05/Aug/10 with Ross B

I think I know the sequence now - I just need to link it on the sharp end!
Neil Adams - Lead dog - 29/Jul/10 with Fiend

Short, but good fun. Easy to muck up the sequence between 2nd and 4th bolts (as I did more than once!).
kevg - Lead RP - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Jul/10

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Jul/10

It's just a boulder problem really and a quality one at that!
Jonathan Bean - 26/Jun/10 with Chris E

Felt desperate intially, but found a sequence which should work at some unspecified point in the future!!
kevg - TR dog - 24/Jun/10 with Pete R, Burnsie

1st redpoint after a quick work on toprope. Nails.
dj_brigham05 - Lead RP - 23/May/10 with James Connolly

NDD - Lead - 13/May/09 with Will

Looks easy but it's not!
willackers - Lead RP - 20/Apr/09 with Ross Hennighen

akhughes - Lead - 2008

Cassidy - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/05 with Henners

Henners - Lead RP - 01/Mar/05 with Malc Smith

buzby78 - Lead RP - 15/Apr/97

dominic lee - Lead RP - 1997 with Glenn Sutcliffe, Mark Leach

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 20
hard 7c0 of 11
7c0 of 11
easy 7c0 of 11
hard 7b+6 of 11
7b+4 of 11
easy 7b+1 of 11
hard 7b0 of 11
7b0 of 11
easy 7b0 of 11
3 Stars1 of 9
2 Stars7 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean RP