UKC

90m, 6 pitches. Start 6 meters down from and to the right of the large triangular overhang.
1) 15m. Climb the corner to a ledge below a small overhang. Take the overhang by an awkward wide crack; then climb a slab to a small stance.
2) 23m. 4b. Traverse easily right to a spike after 5 meters. Climb the wall above the spike for 3 meters; then traverse delicately right and climb a grove to a ledge.
3) 15m. 4a. Move up and left to an obvious break in the steep wall. Climb this for a few moves before traversing left to a tree.
4) 37m. 4a. Gain the rock ledge on the right and move right again to the foot of a buttress. Climb a steep corner on the right until it is possible to move onto the
face. Climb this to easier ground and scramble up vegetation to the top.

E Marshall, KA Wright, B Simpson 26/Sep/1953.

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Route of Interest
Gwern pillar

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Gwern Graig Rock)

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