UKC

78m, 7 pitches. Exhilarating climbing in its upper section. Start from the top of pitch 2 of Will o’the Wisp.
1) As pitch 1 of Will o’the Wisp.
2) As pitch 2 of Will o‘the Wisp.
3) 5m. Move right and go up to a small tree (flake belay).
4) 14m. From the end of the ledge, right of the belay, climb the wall above for 2.5 meters until a slightly rising traverse to the left can be made to a big spike.
Swing left round the spike and climb up to a large heather terrace. Nut belay below a broken grove.
5) 12m. Climb the groove to gain a left-trending ramp, which is followed to a belay under a big corner.
6) 17m. Climb the corner for 2 meters to gain ledges. Move right along these until a move can be made up a wall to gain a higher traverse-line, which leads right
to a huge block in a corner. Make a move round the base of this to a stance with a chockstone belay.
7) 30m. Climb the steep corner above a spike for 2 meters and step right to a slab. Traverse the slab to a ramp on the right; then follow the ramp to the arête.
Finish up the arête.

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Route of Interest
Lockwood's Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)

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