Derbyshire > Dovestone Tor >
 
Route 1*** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
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The Shylock Finish >>
[Me enjoying route 1, worth all three stars!!, 2 kb]16m. Another classic. Start up the outer arete of the buttress and mantel awkwardly onto a ledge. Step left and make a second mantel over a bulge onto a sloping shelf, then step right and mantel past an undercut crack. Finish easily out to the right. © ROCKFAX
FA. Albert Shutt 1949

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Photo: Me enjoying route 1, worth all three stars!! © Takacs
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 202 logbooks, and on 23 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 16/Mar/14

rohai545 - Lead - 23/Aug/13 with Neil Henson

khalidq - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Nick Whelan

Neil Henson - 2nd - 23/Aug/13 with Krish

RosieLynch - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with john lynch

john lynch - Lead - 10/Aug/13 with rosie

Andrew Barker - 2nd - 12/Jul/13 with Dan O'Flynn

danoflynn - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Andy Barker

apw - 2nd - 06/Jul/13 with Eric

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

With the Shylock Finish.
deacondeacon - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/13

the power - 2nd - 29/Jun/13 with deacon

Jackwd - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/13 with Nigel Berry

mikealexpayne - Lead - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13

SuperLee1985 - 2nd β - 09/Jun/13

StevieLee - 08/Jun/13

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 01/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jun/13

Chris Hind - Lead - 01/Jun/13 with Bry

mattscott - Lead O/S - 26/May/13

jogh - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Vincent

vinni - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with James

NickJH - 2nd O/S - Apr/13 with Andy Cross

keith leonard - 2nd - 2013

3 big rock overs. Very big, if you're 5 ft 4. 3 stars?
jessyb - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Charlie

Hardcore Pat - Lead β - 08/Sep/12 with Steve Fletch

Jim Slater - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Alan

john_ni - 2nd - 08/Aug/12 with Graeme Hammond (PCC)

Even better than I remembered, and I thought it was excellent last time! Did with the Shylock finish this time :)
Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/12 with John B pcc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/12

Steven Andrews - 2nd O/S - 27/May/12 with Andrew Marshall

ushi - Lead - 27/May/12 with Steven, Andy Marshall

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/12

JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Claire

very good route, easier than expected. good gear before the hard moves too.
tjsx101 - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Chris Playfoot

scott.hill - Lead O/S - 26/May/12 with Brendan Mackrill, Alisa

tinyali - 2nd dog - 26/May/12 with Brendan Mackrill, Scott Hill

max_chan - 2nd rpt - 26/May/12 with Phil PCC

Ahab - Lead O/S - 13/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/12

cem - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Truckle

Brannock - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Atmospheric climbing, very cold with strong winds made this feel a lot harder than VS, on the whole well protected, but the three mantelshelf moves all feel hard for 4c. Excellent route and a lovely walk in.
Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Tanya Savage

Was going to lead but bottled. First mantelshelf small and teetering, 2nd sprawly but OK, thought I'd never get up 3rd - high step and rockover.
Tanya Savage - 2nd - 29/Aug/11 with Neil Pacey

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11

alexyoung - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Ali

Jack Whiteley - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11

andybirtwistle - Lead - 28/Jul/11 with Keith Lonsdale

ayuplass - 2nd - 24/Jul/11 with Helen, Thea

Barry D - Lead - 05/Jul/11 with Richard W

JEP - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/11

Reckon it's only 1.5 stars, obviously I am not a mantelshelfy sort of person. ;)
nick ferro - 26/Jun/11 with Dioni

Paul D Jones - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/11

dprctr - 2nd β - 24/Apr/11 with Paul Jones

joemallia - 2nd β - 23/Apr/11 with Jill Whittaker, Fidel Sciamanna

smeaton - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11 with dusty

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/11

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11 with Rachel Takacs, Rosie Henstock

Should be top 50, great route! even if you don't lie mantles!
Takacs - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Laurence Everitt

skittles - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Heather Williams

Fantastic route. Should be a Rockfax Top 50.
petellis - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Bex

andrew549 - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Pete Ellis

Excellent.
Becky E - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Peter Ellis

richyg - Lead - 09/Apr/11

claregardiner - Lead - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Guy Wilson - 13/Oct/10 with Paulo

pabbage - 13/Oct/10

Jonathan Hall - Lead - 05/Sep/10 with Rob Middleton

disturbed_one51 - 2nd - 05/Sep/10 with Hannah Moulton

danleyden - TR - 31/Jul/10 with Jenny James

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/10

lucasp - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with masa

tiga271 - Lead - 24/Jul/10 with mark20

masa-alpin - 2nd rpt - 24/Jul/10 with P Luke

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10

Dizz - 2nd - 10/Jul/10 with jt

hotfeet - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Steve

MD - 2nd - 03/Jul/10 with Heg

fatbuoybazza - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with deborah

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Ed Lamb

ed_1973 - Lead - 03/Jul/10 with paul highams

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/10

Richard G Wilkinson - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Dimitris Perdikou

dimwit18 - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Richard G Wilkinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/10

keefe - 05/Jun/10 with Tansy

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/May/10

Mr. K - 2nd O/S - 22/May/10 with Ben Redgate

jshields - Lead - 15/May/10 with Ed James

Ant Man Bee - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Jenny Andexer, Charles Moreton

Horrible. I now officially hate roofs.
mattparratt - 2nd - 24/Apr/10

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 24/Apr/10

cem - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/10 with Jenny Andexer, Paul Bolton

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with John Inkpen

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with Ed O'Connell

bigbobbyking - 2nd - 10/Apr/10 with Chris Allan

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/10

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead β - 10/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09

simon1965 - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with peakdj

davidwright - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Sam

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Sep/09

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/09 with Mark Hazell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/09

markytaylor - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/09

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/09

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Sep/09

Ketu - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Nigel

tri-nitro-toulumne - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Rob Truckle

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/09

Good route, not reall sure how it gets three stars though.
Byronius Maximus - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Rayan Sammut, Alex Twist

Mantletastic! Bit of a pushover and not 3*s
Twisty - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/09 with Rayan Sammut, Byron Buck

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/09

Brilliant climb if you love mantleshelves, which I do! Agree with the person that said the shylock variation looks fantastic.
Mrs Weasel - Lead - 22/Aug/09 with JiveWeasel

JiveWeasel - 2nd - 22/Aug/09 with Mrs Weasel

Really enjoyed this, last route of the day and the crag was quiet apart from the bleating of sheep and the gurgling of the grouse. Found the first bit tricky to protect. Will have to do the Shylock finish next time, looks outrageous!
jeffsheard - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with Sarah Davis

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/09

teflonpete - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Barry

LakesWinter - 2nd - 14/Jun/09 with gustav

Gustav - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Matt G

Great route.
Neil Henson - 2nd - 13/Jun/09 with Graham Robinson

mikej - 2nd - 02/Jun/09 with Rick Naylor

colin milton - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with ibbo

Brown - 2nd O/S - 03/May/09 with Stu

great climb, good moves on (mainly) good holds.
adam carless - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Jon_nz

LardClimber - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Dave Williams & Nic Brown

danm - Lead - 20/Mar/09 with Dan Arkle

matsavage - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/08

Stig - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/08 with Charlie Reade-Jahn

Really enjoyed this one, deffonately 3 stars! It was absolutely blowing a gale but we had risked the rain, and walked all the way in so were determined to get something good done from our first visit to the crag. Got to the bottom of the route and thought I've been wimping out of things I'm not sure of too many times recently so just said to Matt lets do it which is pretty much a contract lol. Started up the corner a little weary as the wind started to pick up, plopped a couple of pieces of gear in and went for the high right hand. Put some more gear in the little slot (0.5 cam) and moved up and over left with the tricky mantle, only to find myself stretched over a sloping mantle lol. Absolutely brilliant, a little worrying but got a really high foot up and just rocked over and leaned in. Up right again to another really high leg up and step over. Wind was blowing REALLY hard now, and I was at the shylock finish... To be continued on that log..
Reaver2k - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/08 with Matt Marshall

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08

nienke - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with Adam Young

coffeepot - 2nd - 26/Jul/08 with jelaby

Lead it before. Lovely.
cmsg - 2nd rpt - 13/Jul/08 with Tom Cattermole

tobydunford - 2nd β - 13/Jul/08 with Harry Martin

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/08 with Darren McMaster, Mike Dickson

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 31/May/08 with Big Ian

A stunner!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Rich France

Hidden - Solo - 11/May/08

Fantastic. Again
max_chan - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Lou

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/May/08

Matthallinan - Lead - 02/Apr/08 with Jon Winter

Jim Walton - 2008

Hidden - 2008

bob3141 - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/07 with Jesse Dufton

Jesse Dufton - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with bob3141

Hidden - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/07

RichardMc - 2nd - 15/Sep/07 with Graham Sheey

martin48 - Lead - 09/Sep/07 with dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07

howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/07 with Chris Fitzhugh & Jim

Hidden - Solo - 12/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Aug/07

max_chan - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Steve

Hidden - Lead - 05/Aug/07

ASchwirtz - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/07 with Mike Todd

A superb route that well deserves all 3 of it's stars. Nice delicate climbing all the way up with good gear placements. A relief to discover I could still lead!
Mark_RMC - Lead - 09/Jun/07 with Rob Smart

bullwinkle - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Paul

Tested my mantling technique!
KeithW - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Bruce

Sidekick - Lead - 01/Apr/07

KatieEmily - 2nd dnf - 16/Sep/06 with Lewis

really enjoyed the mantelshelfing
lewisl - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/06 with Katie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06

catt - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06 with Paul Winder

K Wall - 2nd - 10/Jun/06 with Martin

sims - 2nd O/S - 23/May/04 with Nick

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2004

sdht - 2004

Phil West - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/03 with Chris Tan

lithos - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/03

Simon Caldwell - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/03 with Ian A

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/03

chris sm - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/03 with Pippa Froggatt

Nick Smith - UKC - Lead - Apr/03 with Thea Williams

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/03

cem - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/02 with Rob Smithies, Graham Dolman

FrankW - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/00 with James R

iskra2000 - Lead - 25/Jun/99 with Duncan Hornby

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/95

Chris Ellis - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/93 with Louise Pellett

Roget - Solo O/S - 28/Jun/92

Hidden - Solo - 22/Apr/90

Tom V - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/76

mikej - Solo - 27/Oct/73

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, alp79, matbrown333, Greza, Hidden, Hidden, sting, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Steve Waters, Mynydd, hamishjoe, Hidden, gianpaolo, Chi Cheng, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, climbingrick, Hidden, Hidden, lewis

Voting
Total votes cast 161
hard HVS0 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS2 of 56
hard VS14 of 56
VS32 of 56
easy VS6 of 56
hard HS2 of 56
HS0 of 56
easy HS0 of 56
hard 5a0 of 52
5a0 of 52
easy 5a1 of 52
hard 4c27 of 52
4c21 of 52
easy 4c2 of 52
hard 4b1 of 52
4b0 of 52
easy 4b0 of 52
3 Stars31 of 53
2 Stars14 of 53
1 Star8 of 53
0 Stars0 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
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Style of ascent

Soloed7 of 202 (3.5%)
Lead98 of 202 (48.5%)
Followed85 of 202 (42.1%)
Toproped1 of 202 (0.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 202 (0.5%)
Unknown10 of 202 (5.0%)

'Climbed'80 of 202 (39.6%)
clean O/S105 of 202 (52.0%)
clean β6 of 202 (3.0%)
clean rpt9 of 202 (4.5%)
dogged1 of 202 (0.5%)
dnf1 of 202 (0.5%)