12m.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the left-hand wall avoiding the tendency to drift towards the arete as much as possible. Follow the cracks leftwards for the best finish. Gentle for 5c especially for the tall. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Bradley 1983

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500.


ClimberDateStyle
FlavioL1989 23/Apr Lead O/S
kim.mulji 09/Apr 2nd dnf
with Joe
DBoothroyd 23/Feb Lead dog

Tough for E1, and getting past the block is hard, in an awkward and shit rather than challenging but rewarding way - ended up finishing up Blizzard Ridge.

with Joe Mills
sopaz 21/Nov/15 Lead

On Theo/Rob's gear. Foot slipped on the crux - not sure how I stayed on!

with Rob, Phil
dr_botnik 21/Nov/15 Lead β
the power 21/Nov/15 Lead

Super sport mega

theomoore 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
ralphio 18/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Only used arete for the very final move onto the top so claiming the full grade.

with Marcin
Andrew Abraham 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Ceara
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Neal Jobling 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Tony Flint
kermit_uk 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
TomYates 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

PROBABLY DID NOT FINISH FAR ENOUGH LEFT TO GET THE E1 GRADE

Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
john_ni 30/May/15 2nd

probably trended too close to arete towards top on 2nd rather than break to break

rurp 25/May/15 Lead O/S

pumpy

with Mailee
Hidden 25/May/15 2nd O/S
Mowglee 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Ali
Dibdawg 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
Dan Jenkin 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Lou
Hardcore Pat 10/May/15 Lead β
with Dr Julie
Hidden 04/May/15 Lead
morganator 15/Apr/15 2nd
ellis 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Whitworth
climberchristy 22/Mar/15 Lead rpt

Led before. Done as a bit of a warm up today. Very cold rock and fingers but no problems on it. A really nice line with great face climbing just slightly spoiled by the top section when you have to surmount the awkward shelf.

with Ben Cole
MysteriousCeorl 20/Mar/15 TR
Jimbo C 07/Mar/15 2nd

Easier than Nonsuch. Enough said.

with Olly
robblowen 28/Feb/15 2nd dog

Last route of the day, really pumped, nice moves though.

with Jonny
ashtond6 28/Feb/15 Lead rpt
Andy Peak 1 20/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Nice route loads of good gear. have a good think before you place a cam under the big block at the top:-)

with phill ukc
the power 20/Feb/15 2nd rpt
with Andy
Alex Thompson 08/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Bit of a stretch, but not too far to reach the break.

with Marcus Buckley, Ian BMW
the power 03/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Felt hard and scary,dunno if I did exact line but felt about the grade given

with rob
islandlynx 06/Dec/14 Lead RP

Great route. lowered off a cam after the long move between breaks with terrible pump. abbed to get gear, had a sneaky look at the top, then led clean later that day. loved the high foot undercutting move.

Matt77 06/Dec/14 2nd O/S
with Shane
sann1458 13/Nov/14 Lead

Fantastic, gear really good, cold day though

with Matt
Hidden 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Rachel Slater 19/Oct/14 2nd O/S
bigdrew 19/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Oct/14 Lead
Gudge 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Bob Ewen
dom94 22/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Clement
nick ferro 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Andrew Edwards, Oli Birkill
Senna 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
C May 13/Sep/14 2nd dog

1 rest at the top

with Tim
Longsufferingropeholder 13/Sep/14 Lead
with C May
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Olli-C 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bottled the top and scuttled right. Definitely E1 that way.

with Swanny
Anne Gumbley 03/Aug/14 2nd dog
markfairbank 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Independent enough but only just

Hidden 26/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 31/May/14 2nd O/S
samt 21/May/14 Lead rpt

Pretty sure I've done this before. Lovely evening sans midges!

with Andy Tickle
Lenny 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Phil .N
Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
belay bunny turned bad 11/Apr/14 Lead
with al
Climbster 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Ian
Bloke on a Rope 29/Mar/14 2nd β
with Matt
Hidden 23/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Mar/14 2nd rpt
greenclimb 15/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Good moves but only E1. Good gear

with Rhys McCallister, Bruce Woodley
Rhys Macallister 08/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 02/Mar/14 Lead O/S
bigbobbyking 01/Mar/14 2nd dog

Foot popped off.

with Chris Bull
Matthew Ferrier 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Calum Wadsworth 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Found it quite hard for E1 so would say E2 is correct. I haven't done many E2's so I don't have much to compare to. Oh and used knees getting onto the block.

with micki
MSchobitz 27/Nov/13 2nd O/S
ashtond6 09/Nov/13 Lead O/S

very good moves !

Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Jono_LS16 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 12/May/13 Lead β
with Sarah
Hannes B 09/Apr/13 2nd
Jimbo C 06/Apr/13 2nd

Good lead by Pete. Rather technical

with Chris, Pete
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Joe Costello 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Average eliminate, one good move. Used arete at the top, silly not to.

with Matt
mattwyles1 05/Jan/13 2nd β
with Joe
jfane ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Dec/12 Lead dog
Hidden 02/Dec/12 2nd O/S
rd20 11/Nov/12 2nd dog
Rob84 11/Nov/12 2nd O/S
with Rob Adie
GarethHall 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead
Milne 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S
riddle 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Ted Rogers
max_chan 06/Oct/12 Lead dog
with Steve Carty
jwpil 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

No arete all the way up, e2 feels about right.

with Deacon
leon 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Thought the move to the break was going to be the crux but turned out to be the higher move. Kept left of the aręte at the top but felt artificial.

with Steven Davidson
WillDoyle 12/Aug/12 Lead dog
Killianmurphy 11/Aug/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Pythonist 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Jenni Young
Matt Cooke 06/May/12 2nd rpt
with Rosh
jshields 05/May/12 2nd

Previous lead Oct.'98.

with Paul Tretheway
tomthecoolperson 03/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andrew
deacondeacon 05/Apr/12 Lead O/S
byatt2002 20/Mar/12 2nd
mattorford 16/Mar/12 Lead
Owen W-G 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Avoided the aręte for stretchy crux but moved right off block for penultimate move, but was so pumped falling was a cert otherwise. Only E1 that way I reckon, and HVS if you use the arete for crux. Blinkers needed for E2 tick. Not done many eliminates and routes like this remind me why I shouldn't bother. Nice crux move tho.

with Ryan
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Solo dnf
jayrenegade 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Waaa, thought it was on blizzard ridge, until i looked at a guide later. oops. didn´t do the finish.

with Emelio, Nikki, Adrian, Prav
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Chad123 26/Feb/12 Lead rpt

Still a good climb, worth two stars I reckon, steady warm up wall, then reachy move and some pumpy jugs to finish. Awkward to get onto block at top, ended up lying down today!

with Emily
Sean Kelly ??/2012 Lead
with Keith Bolton
jkarran 27/Nov/11 Lead

Never too hard but there's a longish move between breaks and the arms needed a good shakeout at the rest below the top wall. Nice finish.

with Pete
petellis 27/Nov/11 2nd rpt
tebs 20/Nov/11 Lead rpt

E1 5c the way I did it. No holds shared with Blizzard ridge and avoided the ledges to the right of the crux but used the flake for my right hand under the overhanging block. don't know whether this is in or not but sod it eliminates are a bit rubbish. Felt natural the way I did it, with one 5c move and sustained 5bish climbing above

with james
davesykes 20/Nov/11 2nd
with Stan
pie_eater_pete 24/Oct/11 Lead O/S
davewsargent 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
James Oswald 19/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Great route. SPent too much time hesitate and placing gear. Hard crux and sustained without a proper rest in the top half.

Matt Cooke 22/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Wells
Hidden 19/Sep/11 Lead rpt
robinsi197 28/Aug/11 2nd
with Richard
ojp 09/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Si
Luke_G 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

Nice climb, got pumped at the top.

Danny Crump 24/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 24/Jul/11 TR dnf
yarbles 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with James
smollett 24/Jul/11 2nd
with yarbles
mark20 28/Jun/11 Lead rpt
M_W_Court 28/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Mark
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Brown 31/May/11 Lead
riddle 28/May/11 2nd O/S
mikeyjbs 28/May/11 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 21/May/11 Lead rpt
mark20 21/May/11 2nd O/S
Fran S8 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Mike_Hayes 14/May/11 -
Bry 14/May/11 2nd dog
with Simon
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead
Tim_C7 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Felt E2 in the heat of the day. Nice.

drcorbasisgod 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Dave Gilling 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Chris Parson
alaan 23/Apr/11 Solo
RKernan 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Janette McDonald, Benoit Dupasquier, John Begley
IamJam 20/Apr/11 2nd dnf

with Ronan Kearnan
Hidden 20/Apr/11 TR O/S
Rintygold 20/Apr/11 TR O/S

Easy on Top rope. Ronan Kernan Lead

with Gerald Donnelly, RKernan
JPGR 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
vanderz ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
cat22 20/Mar/11 2nd
with Mike
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
disturbed_one51 13/Nov/10 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 13/Nov/10 Lead

SPICEWORLD, Lovely stuff!

Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead dnf
derekb 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with Steve - PCC
BeccaSnowden 09/Oct/10 Lead dnf

Got to the block near top after a fall on the crux (reach dependent move) and a rest higher up. Backed off because the block at the top moved forward several inches! Dissapointed cause I was really enjoying the route :(

with Tom
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead dnf
Cake 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
howlingbaboon 30/Sep/10 TR dog
petellis 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for years. Found it hard (deffo E2 rather than E1) but not feeling on top form.

with Bex
Graeme Hammond 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Becky E 26/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 25/Sep/10 2nd O/S
clairejane 07/Aug/10 2nd
with Tom Lyons
BrettB 18/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with tomas
JamieSparkes 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S

route runs a little too close to blizzard ridge

with Nick
Nick1812P 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jamie
nai 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mel
tatz45 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Pembroke, Katy Vose
Hidden 09/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead RP
Si dH 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt

confirmed view that its a good E2 5c (lowish in grade) if you stick to the line. Anywhere near the arete or the groove in it is well off-route.

with Chris Foster
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
J.Wells 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
geddicakes 28/Mar/10 2nd
Mike_Hayes 28/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead rpt
tebs 23/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Climbed past the crux, then ran out of cams and minerals and escaped onto blizzard ridge.

with Jon
Hidden 23/Jan/10 Lead
drysori 23/Jan/10 2nd
Gustav ??/2010 2nd

1 rest after my hands lost all feeling

with Angus, Matt G
Hidden 05/Dec/09 Lead dnf
Gustav 05/Dec/09 2nd

1 rest after my hands lost all feeling

with Angus, Matt G
cobweb 31/Oct/09 Lead
with martyn hopson
Hidden 11/Oct/09 Lead
masa-alpin 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Brian Q
chris sm 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Very easy for E2 and good gear the whole way. The line is reasonably independent and avoiding Blizzard is not too hard.

with Pippa Froggatt
alexyoung 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Nice climb. Worth more than the one star in the guide.

Dave Foster 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Very good route, but not really E2. Open climbing with just about enough protection. Starting to get a little pumpy towards the top but good rests if you shuffle about a bit.

with Andy and Alex
metal arms 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Lewis Andrew 12/May/09 2nd O/S
with John Lynch
john lynch 12/May/09 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
tommytwotone 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Nigel
duzinga 19/Apr/09 Lead dog

2 rests

with Katie
Katie Marshall 18/Apr/09 2nd
with Tuze
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Mick r 29/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with big Rob
Hidden 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Tony Little 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Dan
swoosh 21/Mar/09 Lead
with Pat Dawson
lowersharpnose 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Steady, good protection.

with Duz
Hidden 06/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd
tuftynick ?/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden ?/Mar/09 Lead
keith leonard ??/2009 2nd
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
drysori ??/2009 Lead
adam carless 07/Dec/08 2nd O/S

nice couple asked if I wanted a go to save them abbing for gear.

with Evan?
Kirill 08/Nov/08 2nd dog

lovely moves, fell at the final mantle.

with Dan, Gareth
SteveM 20/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Cragrat Rich
Cragrat Rich 20/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Backed off in the past and downclimbed... Different story today. Both this and the other 'so-called' E2 5c today felt soft, although both had added spice. In this case it came in the form of blustery gales and spits of rain throughout the crux section. Mmmmm, nice to be back on grit eh?

Hidden 20/Oct/08 Lead O/S
AndyM-LVB 11/Oct/08 Lead dnf

Tough climb (it says E1-5c in my book), got to the last section, but had to escape onto Blizzard Ridge... Pumped out.

with Brendan Ferguson
ksjs 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

very worthwhile - with relatively sustained climbing and good moves especially the one going over the protruding flake at the top. very hard to stay away from the arete - cant see how it can be climbed at the grade without occasional use of stuff on / near the arete?

Pete Graham 18/Sep/08 Lead
with FLem and Jack
JackMountains 17/Sep/08 2nd dog
with Pete Graham
Sankey 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Luke
Hidden 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S
joe larner ?/Aug/08 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Tez29 27/May/08 Lead β
with Mousey
Hidden 26/May/08 2nd rpt
Dan 85 27/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Nicos
Mick r 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S

lead clean without resorting to the arete. Found the hardest move getting onto the block near the top but hands were cold by then - easy E2

with Vash
Jethro ?/Feb/08 Solo
jamiev 06/Jan/08 Lead O/S

Lovely. And great gear wherever needed.

with Kenta Tanaka
daveagriff ??/2008 2nd
nofx ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 15/Dec/07 Lead O/S
tom.e 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
DavidR 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Oct/07 2nd
fizzy_elephant 11/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Nick Fletcher
dhdaveuk 01/Sep/07 2nd RP
with Leo
Coel Hellier ?/Sep/07 Lead
MeMeMe 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
maybe_si 29/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with james
Hidden 25/Mar/07 2nd dog
Hidden 25/Mar/07 Lead
Stig 16/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Chad123 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S

A difficult one to grade - very easy to escape (unfortunately!) onto Blizzard Ridge and the height factor changes the grade, though the bottom section is quite bold either way, and it keeps going after the long stretches. E1+1/2??

with James and Ellie
Nicos 27/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with dan woolnough
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden 18/Nov/06 Lead
Si dH 30/Sep/06 2nd dog

One rest above crux due to pump and being slow to work out the next couple of moves. I think this is definitely worth E2 - the crux was certainly harder than you would expect on an E1 in any case and it doesnt let up quickly afterwards. Perhaps people voting E1 used too many of the holds on Blizzard Ridge without realising, which it is certainly easy to do...

with Neil Furniss
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead β
Hidden 05/Feb/06 Lead β
Garan 22/Jan/06 Lead O/S

Easy if you are tall. However....

with Iain Fisher
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ram MkiV 17/Dec/05 Lead O/S

I found it quite easy but didn't get too excited

with Alex Mason
Alex Mason 17/Dec/05 Lead O/S

nice route steve led first so i had preplaced gear but positive i coulda placed it mi sen! good crux as well give it the 2stars. quite pumpy considering.

Hidden 20/Nov/05 Lead
markbenton 20/May/05 TR

lots of rope drag

with ?
mel holmes 15/May/05 Lead O/S
with Nancy Maitland
Mark A Humphries 11/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Karl Walton
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
Dave Reeve ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
chrishedgehog ??/2005 2nd O/S
with Karl
Hidden 13/Nov/04 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Mark Collins 27/Mar/04 2nd O/S
with Innis
cem 22/Feb/04 Lead rpt
cem 07/Dec/03 Lead dog
with Rob Fox, Pete Atkinson
Hidden ?/Aug/03 2nd rpt
brownie mike ??/2003 Lead O/S
Jim Gayler ?/Dec/02 Lead
with Matt Parkes, Ben Waller
Urgles ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
with izzy
Siderunner 25/May/02 2nd O/S

Seemed a soft touch for E2, but nice climbing.

with Steve G
Hidden 27/Oct/01 2nd
uphillnow 14/Sep/01 2nd
with Mark Gray
Hidden 01/Sep/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/01 Lead rpt
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
Hidden ?/May/01 2nd
Stone Muppet ??/2001 Lead dog
ewen ??/2001 -
Brian Rodgers ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Helen Rea
Hidden ??/2000 -
tlr ??/2000 Lead
sadams 24/Jul/99 Lead
with Hugh Cottom
Rich Kirby 24/Apr/99 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
bigphil 11/Nov/97 2nd
with Adam L
Hidden 12/Oct/97 Lead O/S
Podling 28/Sep/97 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/97 Lead
martroberts 01/Aug/97 Lead RP
Chris Reid 24/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
Hidden 15/Feb/97 Lead
Hidden 14/Apr/96 Lead
Bruce Kerr 09/Apr/96 Lead
with Robert Durran
crossleysm ??/1996 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/95 Lead
Gordon Stainforth 28/Jun/95 2nd

V high quality all the way

with Steve Dean, Chris Thorp, Pete Sutton
mikedelderfield 01/Jun/95 2nd O/S
ste_d 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with mik
Roget 13/May/95 Lead O/S
with jon
Daniel Wrightson ?/Feb/95 Lead O/S
with Olivia Horner
Hidden 12/Jun/94 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/93 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/93 2nd
Hidden ?/Sep/93 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/93 2nd
rob.grafton 10/Apr/92 2nd
with jim h, chris pugh, Bruce
rob.grafton 16/Feb/92 Lead
with Bruce
Stoney Boy 14/Apr/91 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
whispering nic 03/Mar/91 Lead
with Ali W
Hidden 12/May/90 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/May/90 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/90 Lead
leathers ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/89 Lead
Rich Kirby ??/1989 Lead
Mark Kemball 12/Mar/84 2nd
with Paul Clark
Hidden 09/Apr/83 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Sam McCarthy, Geoff82, Hidden, OliverIF, Hidden, robw007, truckmonkey, crag_hopper_Jay, mikeyjbs, Hidden, Hidden, alimckay, Hidden, petellis, adam carless
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 83
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 73
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set