The South-West Corner (Original Route)* E2 5c

Rockfax Description
Climb the groove to the roof then exit right (crux) to Croton Oil and a finish up the rickety flake. Low in the grade but pumpy. © ROCKFAX

FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

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This climb is in 180 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

harry_lewis - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/15 with Tom Bennell

jimbonfire - 2nd - 07/Jun/15

spidey - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Jimmy broomhead

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 28/May/15 with Stephen Horne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/May/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/15

good route, just about managed to span it using a smaller crimp for my left hand.
MSchobitz - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/15 with Tom Appleby

In the rain. Not as hard for the short as everyone says it is. There is a perfectly good intermediate hold, so even if you can't reach the big jug it's fine.
Teappleby - 2nd - 25/Apr/15 with Matt Groom, Ben Kelsey, Shaun Humphreys, Matt Ferrier, Micki Schobitz

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/15

Two attemps at the crux came off both times and flipped upside down ripped me top cam out on 2nd fall haha radical
the power - Lead dnf - 04/Apr/15 with Andy

Ian lead over the roof which is more of a variation to Angst than this route I think.
Alex Thompson - 2nd dog - 08/Feb/15 with Marcus Buckley, Ian Carr

tried a while ago on a sweaty day and couldnt commit to the move! felt fine today!
shaunhumphreys - Lead G/U - 05/Dec/14 with rory

Mildly damp..
adi bryant - Lead RP - 17/Nov/14 with Lee

Triyed every way i could think statick, then i just had to slap for the good one:-)
Andy Peak 1 - Lead - 26/Oct/14 with phill ukc

Glad to get this one today as have sat on crux in past. Short lived but tough crux.
climberchristy - Lead rpt - 25/Oct/14 with Ben Cole

Short, sharp & sweet!
Gudge - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/14 with Bob Ewen

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Apr/14

Jack93 - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/14 with Charlie Low

bantamdave - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14 with Tony Maden

Hidden - Lead - 11/Apr/14

belay bunny turned bad - 2nd - 11/Apr/14 with al

Harder than the tainted memory I have of seconding this on my first day of leading!! Reversed 4/5 times before changing from new shoes into old ones I trusted! Great route.
JakeWShaw - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

did not commit to roof on poor hold. must try harder
Andy Peak 1 - Lead dnf - 03/Feb/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Dec/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - Dec/13

took a while to commit to reaching round the corner, but once i got the big hold and the high foot it was plain sailing, ace route
pete1993 - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/13 with Alex

Height seems to be an advantage for the crux.
Matthew Ferrier - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/13 with Calum Wadsworth, Tom Appleby, Alex McCann

Very good. Not too bad once I committed to the move but spent a long time psyching up for it/getting more pumped.
Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/13 with Matt F

amccann - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead - 27/Sep/13

thetradlad - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Harry Thorpe

Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/13 with Jake Lodge

mshorter - Lead - 17/May/13

Hidden - 23/Apr/13

Hannes B - 2nd - 09/Apr/13 with Debbie B

Mowglee - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Sasha, Tom Nichols

SteveM - Lead dnf - 02/Feb/13 with Rachael

thomaspomfrett - 2nd dog - 05/Jan/13 with Pat Brien

Hidden - Lead - 18/Nov/12

Nice, a stiff pull to get round the corner though with bomber small wires hiding on the left arete of the groove.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 13/Oct/12 with CCLee Leatherbreaker

One move crux probably doesn't warrant e2, nice line though.
jwpil - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/12 with Deacon

Led on pre-placed gear from partners ascent. very steady at the grade.
deacondeacon - Lead - 17/Sep/12

disturbed_one51 - Lead - 02/Jun/12 with Wee man

Jonathan Hall - 2nd - 02/Jun/12 with Mark Williams

jshields - 2nd - 05/May/12 with Paul Tretheway

JRae - 2nd - 19/Mar/12 with Zora, Paul M

pmurdy - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Jonny Reay

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Jake Shaw

JakeWShaw - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/12 with Nick

A bit bold but e1 5a seems closer to the mark, watched some yooth do the crux beforehand which probably knocks an e point off
Owen W-G - Lead β - 16/Mar/12 with Ryan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

Gambit - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Barney

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Feb/12

Neil led. Slightly off route he thought.
stuaart - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Ben, Neil Redgrave

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Nick Sillem - Lead O/S - 2012

Longsufferingropeholder - Lead O/S - 2012 with Ed

Me thinks e1 ;-)
cobweb - Lead - 22/Oct/11 with martyn hopson

Bill Lawrence - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Guy VG, oaksi2

James Oakes - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11 with Bill Lawrence

Nice line, not too bad at the grade.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/11 with Katya Sourkova

Katya - 2nd - 09/Aug/11 with Paul Phillips

Unbalanced but good. One hard move with daunting fall potential, then the rest of Croton Oil. Had to climb down from crux for re-psyche and rest before climbing through. Didn't feel low in the grade in full sun!
Dave Foster - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Si

ojp - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/11

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/May/11

mark20 - Lead rpt - 21/May/11

Lead withy John whilst Neil and Rich were on Croton Oil. All met at the top which was fab for a pic and the regular stupid banter. Brill
coombsy - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with John B

JRae - Lead - 19/May/11 with Jake Young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11 with Johny R

Good cruxy route.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Becca

Tried to lead but felt too scary trying to rock over. Seconded easily enough.
BeccaSnowden - 2nd - 19/May/11 with Tom

Hidden - 14/May/11

Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with john Bramwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

nick ferro - AltLd RP - 16/Apr/11 with Jonathan Aylwin

akhughes - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/11

Tony Holdsworth - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Adam Hughes

alasdair19 - 2011

mwatson - 2011

Dan Mckinlay - 2011

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Nov/10

Stig - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/10 with james oswald

Felt fine on second when I knew how :) Nice
James Oswald - 2nd dog - 27/Oct/10 with James Rees

BrettB - Lead β - 18/Jul/10 with tomas

nai - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/10 with Mel

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead - 27/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10

pedro.silva - 2nd dog - 14/Mar/10 with Kafoozalem

Laurence Everitt - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Mark D

interesting holds and a commiting long reach for me, kind of deadpointed the move but I may have just been dramatic. first trad of the year after 4 months of bouldering, good to be back.
GuyVG - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Lee and Ben

Seymore Butt - 2010

Came down twice I think, but barely weighted the rope. The crux was a powerful move for me.
Cake - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09

mark20 - 2nd O/S - 31/Oct/09

Very straightforwrd ascent. About as mild an E2 experience as one could get (without mats of course)
Cragrat Rich - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09

tomthecoolperson - Lead - 22/Sep/09 with Andrew

Hidden - 2nd β - 22/Sep/09

Quite tricky. But just one move.
chris sm - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/09 with Pippa Froggatt

Brown - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/09 with Evan

Hidden - Lead - 30/Jul/09

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/09

Lewis Andrew - 2nd O/S - 12/May/09 with John Lynch

john lynch - Lead O/S - 12/May/09 with Lewis Andrew

Hidden - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/09

lukehunt - 15/Mar/09 with Nathan Lawrence

Theeni - Lead dnf - 15/Mar/09 with Jon Leighton

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Oct/08

I took a near-ground fall at the crux - my feet just touched the ground. In the end I managed.
masa-alpin - Lead dog - 12/Oct/08 with P Luke, Andy Rich

Pixie-Andy - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with Masa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/May/08

tom.e - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Claire

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/May/08

tried 2 years ago (but reversed to deck), quite reachy and pumpy while hanging around.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/08 with Tom Martin

lead through after Vash backed off - one hardish move but not bad for E2
Mick r - Lead β - 24/Feb/08 with Vash

jamiev - 2nd β - 06/Jan/08 with Kenta Tanaka

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/08

DavidR - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Nov/07

Hidden - Lead - 03/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/May/07

tatz45 - Lead β - 28/Apr/07 with Lisa Morgan

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/07 with AJ

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/07

DavidEvans - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/07 with Toby Dunn

Phill Mitch - Lead O/S - 2007 with gaz

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Dec/06 with alex at home

first e2 - don't care if it is low in the grade it's still an e2 ;-)
Alex@home - Lead O/S - Dec/06 with nicos

cem - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/06 with Natasha Geere, Graham Dolman

Coel Hellier - Lead - 25/Jun/06

Lev - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/06 with Emma Ross

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Apr/06

chris sm - Lead dog - 14/Apr/06 with Pippa Froggatt

Jon Greengrass - 2nd β - 2006 with reeeve

Hidden - 2006

Mark Riley - 2nd β - Sep/05

Mark A Humphries - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/05 with gary wood

Dave Reeve - Lead O/S - Mar/05 with Steve Hordley

Hidden - 2nd - 2005

RossG - 2005

steve mee - 2nd dog - 19/Sep/04 with Tony Ball

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/04

Jim Gayler - Lead - Dec/02 with Matt Parkes, Ben Waller

Hidden - Lead β - 04/Sep/02

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Oct/01

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/00

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Billg - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/97

Chris Reid - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/97 with Dave Plummer

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/96 with Dave Banham-Hughes

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 09/Apr/96 with Robert Durran

uphillnow - 1996

Hidden - Lead dog - 10/Jun/95

mikedelderfield - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/95 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/95 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 23/Apr/95

Sean Kelly - 1995

Hidden - 1995

Hidden - Lead - 12/Jun/94

Hidden - Lead - 03/Oct/93

IanD353 - Solo O/S - Mar/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92

Roget - Lead O/S - 28/May/90 with jim

Hidden - Lead - 31/Mar/90

Rich Kirby - Lead - Feb/90 with Will & Andy Williamson

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jan/89

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/88 with Colin Hughes

Andy Say - Lead O/S - 29/May/88

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 28/May/88 with Andy Say

Led at HVS 5a - not sure how it came to be upgraded so much.
Andy Stephenson - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/79

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ralphio, OliverIF, truckmonkey, rurp, Dean177, Steve Waters, Mynydd, aretherenoneleft, Jonathan Hall, SecretSquirrel, martin48, Garan

Total votes cast 128
hard E30 of 45
E30 of 45
easy E30 of 45
hard E20 of 45
E218 of 45
easy E221 of 45
hard E15 of 45
E11 of 45
easy E10 of 45
hard 6a0 of 44
6a0 of 44
easy 6a0 of 44
hard 5c2 of 44
5c27 of 44
easy 5c11 of 44
hard 5b4 of 44
5b0 of 44
easy 5b0 of 44
3 Stars0 of 39
2 Stars25 of 39
1 Star13 of 39
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP