Rockfax Description
Climb the groove to the roof then exit right (crux) to Croton Oil and a finish up the rickety flake. Low in the grade but pumpy. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

Hidden 24/Apr Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 17/Apr Lead O/S
with Mullet
ralphio 07/Dec/15 Lead G/U

Slipped off initial crack as it was still a it damp from overnight rain. Lowered to ground and led clean second go.

Hidden 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Oct/15 2nd
harry_lewis 09/Jun/15 2nd O/S
jimbonfire 07/Jun/15 2nd
spidey 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
MSchobitz 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S

good route, just about managed to span it using a smaller crimp for my left hand.

Teappleby 25/Apr/15 2nd

In the rain. Not as hard for the short as everyone says it is. There is a perfectly good intermediate hold, so even if you can't reach the big jug it's fine.

Hidden 25/Apr/15 2nd O/S
the power 04/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Two attemps at the crux came off both times and flipped upside down ripped me top cam out on 2nd fall haha radical

with Andy
Andy Peak 1 04/Apr/15 2nd
Alex Thompson 08/Feb/15 2nd dog

Ian lead over the roof which is more of a variation to Angst than this route I think.

with Marcus Buckley, Ian BMW
shaunhumphreys 05/Dec/14 Lead G/U

tried a while ago on a sweaty day and couldnt commit to the move! felt fine today!

with rory
adi bryant 17/Nov/14 Lead RP

Mildly damp..

with Lee
Andy Peak 1 26/Oct/14 Lead

Triyed every way i could think statick, then i just had to slap for the good one:-)

with phill ukc
climberchristy 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Glad to get this one today as have sat on crux in past. Short lived but tough crux.

with Ben Cole
Gudge 03/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Short, sharp & sweet!

with Bob Ewen
Hidden 29/Apr/14 Lead dnf
Jack93 28/Apr/14 Lead O/S
bantamdave 12/Apr/14 2nd dog
with Tony Maden
Hidden 11/Apr/14 Lead
belay bunny turned bad 11/Apr/14 2nd
with al
JakeWShaw 08/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Harder than the tainted memory I have of seconding this on my first day of leading!! Reversed 4/5 times before changing from new shoes into old ones I trusted! Great route.

Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd dog
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 03/Feb/14 Lead dnf

did not commit to roof on poor hold. must try harder

Hidden 29/Dec/13 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Dec/13 Lead O/S
pete1993 27/Nov/13 Lead O/S

took a while to commit to reaching round the corner, but once i got the big hold and the high foot it was plain sailing, ace route

with Alex
Matthew Ferrier 13/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Height seems to be an advantage for the crux.

Calum Wadsworth 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Very good. Not too bad once I committed to the move but spent a long time psyching up for it/getting more pumped.

with Matt F
amccann 24/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/13 Lead
thetradlad 23/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Harry Thorpe 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mshorter 17/May/13 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/13 -
Hannes B 09/Apr/13 2nd
Mowglee 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Sasha, Tom Nichols
SteveM 02/Feb/13 Lead dnf
with Rachael
thomaspomfrett 05/Jan/13 2nd dog
with Pat Brien
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead
JamieSparkes 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Nice, a stiff pull to get round the corner though with bomber small wires hiding on the left arete of the groove.

with CCLee Leatherbreaker
jwpil 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

One move crux probably doesn't warrant e2, nice line though.

with Deacon
deacondeacon 17/Sep/12 Lead

Led on pre-placed gear from partners ascent. very steady at the grade.

disturbed_one51 02/Jun/12 Lead
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 02/Jun/12 2nd
jshields 05/May/12 2nd
with Paul Tretheway
JRae 19/Mar/12 2nd
with Zora, Paul M
pmurdy 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Jonny Reay
Nick1812P 16/Mar/12 Lead O/S
JakeWShaw 16/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Nick
Owen W-G 16/Mar/12 Lead β

A bit bold but e1 5a seems closer to the mark, watched some yooth do the crux beforehand which probably knocks an e point off

with Ryan
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Gambit 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Barney
Hidden 24/Feb/12 2nd O/S
stuaart 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S

Neil led. Slightly off route he thought.

with Ben, Neil Redgrave
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 Lead O/S
Longsufferingropeholder ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Ed
cobweb 22/Oct/11 Lead

Me thinks e1 ;-)

with martyn hopson
Bill Lawrence 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
James Oakes 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice line, not too bad at the grade.

Katya 09/Aug/11 2nd
Dave Foster 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Unbalanced but good. One hard move with daunting fall potential, then the rest of Croton Oil. Had to climb down from crux for re-psyche and rest before climbing through. Didn't feel low in the grade in full sun!

with Si
ojp 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Dave
Hidden 31/May/11 Lead O/S
tebs 27/May/11 Lead dnf

F-ing hard up the blunt arete. Apparently it doesn't go up there. Or maybe it does. Not the best route.

mark20 21/May/11 Lead rpt
coombsy 21/May/11 Lead O/S

Lead withy John whilst Neil and Rich were on Croton Oil. All met at the top which was fab for a pic and the regular stupid banter. Brill

with John B
JRae 19/May/11 Lead
Jake Young 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with Johny R
thomasadixon 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Good cruxy route.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 19/May/11 2nd

Tried to lead but felt too scary trying to rock over. Seconded easily enough.

with Tom
Mike_Hayes 14/May/11 -
Graeme Hammond 08/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
nick ferro 16/Apr/11 AltLd RP
akhughes 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Tony Holdsworth 11/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Adam Hughes
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden 06/Nov/10 2nd
drysori 06/Nov/10 Lead
Stig 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S


with james oswald
James Oswald 27/Oct/10 2nd dog

Felt fine on second when I knew how :) Nice

with James Rees
BrettB 18/Jul/10 Lead β
with tomas
nai 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Mel
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/10 2nd
steveb2006 16/Apr/10 2nd
with David Andrew
steveb2006 27/Mar/10 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
pedro.silva 14/Mar/10 2nd dog
Laurence Everitt 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Mark D
Wood for Trees 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S

interesting holds and a commiting long reach for me, kind of deadpointed the move but I may have just been dramatic. first trad of the year after 4 months of bouldering, good to be back.

with Lee and Ben
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
Cake 15/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Came down twice I think, but barely weighted the rope. The crux was a powerful move for me.

with Matt
Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
mark20 31/Oct/09 2nd O/S
Cragrat Rich 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Very straightforwrd ascent. About as mild an E2 experience as one could get (without mats of course)

Hidden 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
tomthecoolperson 22/Sep/09 Lead
with Andrew
Hidden 22/Sep/09 2nd β
chris sm 30/Aug/09 Lead rpt

Quite tricky. But just one move.

with Pippa Froggatt
Brown 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Evan
Hidden 30/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/09 2nd
Lewis Andrew 12/May/09 2nd O/S
with John Lynch
john lynch 12/May/09 Lead O/S
with Lewis Andrew
Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead rpt
lukehunt 15/Mar/09 -
with Nathan Lawrence
Theeni 15/Mar/09 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd
masa-alpin 12/Oct/08 Lead dog

I took a near-ground fall at the crux - my feet just touched the ground. In the end I managed.

Hidden 12/Oct/08 2nd
Hidden 29/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead rpt
tom.e 18/May/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 01/May/08 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 24/Feb/08 Lead O/S

tried 2 years ago (but reversed to deck), quite reachy and pumpy while hanging around.

with Tom Martin
Mick r 24/Feb/08 Lead β

lead through after Vash backed off - one hardish move but not bad for E2

with Vash
jamiev 06/Jan/08 2nd β
with Kenta Tanaka
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/08 Lead
DavidR 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/07 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/07 2nd O/S
tatz45 28/Apr/07 Lead β
with Lisa Morgan
dan gibson 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with AJ
Hidden 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
DavidEvans 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
Phill Mitch ??/2007 Lead O/S
with gaz
Nicos 09/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Alex@home ?/Dec/06 Lead O/S

first e2 - don't care if it is low in the grade it's still an e2 ;-)

with nicos
cem 05/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Natasha Geere, Graham Dolman
Coel Hellier 25/Jun/06 Lead
Lev 29/Apr/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd dog
chris sm 14/Apr/06 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd β
with reeeve
Hidden ??/2006 -
Mark Riley ?/Sep/05 2nd β
Mark A Humphries 12/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with gary wood
Dave Reeve ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with Steve Hordley
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
RossG ??/2005 -
steve mee 19/Sep/04 2nd dog
with Tony Ball
Hidden 19/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Jim Gayler ?/Dec/02 Lead
with Matt Parkes, Ben Waller
Hidden 04/Sep/02 Lead β
steveb2006 27/Oct/01 2nd
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 04/Mar/00 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
Billg ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Chris Reid 24/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
goi.ashmore 28/Sep/96 Lead O/S
with Dave Banham-Hughes
Bruce Kerr 09/Apr/96 2nd
with Robert Durran
uphillnow ??/1996 -
Hidden 10/Jun/95 Lead dog
mikedelderfield 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
ste_d 01/Jun/95 2nd O/S
with mik
Hidden 23/Apr/95 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
steveb2006 12/Jun/94 Lead
with Terry Bolger
steveb2006 03/Oct/93 Lead
with Ian Cartwright
IanD353 ?/Mar/93 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Roget 28/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim
steveb2006 31/Mar/90 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Feb/90 Lead
with Will & Andy Williamson
steveb2006 07/Jan/89 2nd

Mike leads after I fail, replacing my No 2 friend with a better 2.5 friend (which I didnt have)

with Mike Pycroft
Stoney Boy 01/Oct/88 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
Andy Say 29/May/88 Lead O/S
Chris Ellis 28/May/88 2nd
with Andy Say
Andy Stephenson 21/Oct/79 Lead O/S

Led at HVS 5a - not sure how it came to be upgraded so much.

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, OliverIF, truckmonkey, rurp, Dean177, Steve Waters, Mynydd, aretherenoneleft, Jonathan Hall, Hidden, SecretSquirrel, martin48, Garan
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 46
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 40
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set